Honda FR-V: N22A i-CTDi DPF Blockage and Failed Regeneration
N22A i-CTDi DPF Blockage and Failed Regeneration is a common engine fault on the Honda FR-V on the 2004–2009 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs ≈A$460 to ≈A$4,140 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 8 documented faults on the Honda FR-V.
- Vehicle
- Honda FR-V
- Years
- 2004–2009
- Fuel
- diesel
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The Diesel Particulate Filter fitted to the N22A engine captures soot from combustion and relies on periodic passive regeneration during sustained high-load motorway driving to burn off accumulated particulate matter. Vehicles used predominantly in urban or short-trip driving never reach the exhaust temperatures required for passive regeneration, causing the filter to exceed its safe soot load threshold and triggering forced active regeneration attempts that also fail if the journey is too short.
What you would notice
- DPF warning lamp illuminated on the instrument cluster, often accompanied by the engine management light
- Engine enters limp mode with power noticeably restricted
- Fuel consumption rises sharply as the ECU injects post-combustion fuel to raise exhaust temperature for regeneration
- Excessive white or acrid-smelling smoke during attempted regeneration cycles
How to check it
Where to look. Underside of vehicle in the exhaust system, immediately downstream of the catalytic converter beneath the floor
Watch for: DPF warning lamp illuminated on the instrument cluster, often accompanied by the engine management light. If a workshop inspection is possible: Read DPF differential pressure sensor values with Honda HDS; check DPF soot and ash loading percentage; attempt a forced active regeneration via scan tool and verify exhaust back-pressure returns to normal; inspect DPF casing for cracks or melt damage from failed regeneration events.
What it costs to put right
≈A$460 to ≈A$4,140 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Is this vehicle used mainly for short trips or urban driving?”
- “Has the DPF warning light ever come on, and was the fault resolved?”
- “Has the DPF ever been professionally cleaned or replaced?”
Now check the Honda FR-V you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car still has money owing on it, has been written off or reported stolen, what kms it showed in past sale ads, whether it has had accident repair claims and what it is worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate and its state for the A$17.90 Vehicle Check, or the full history from A$24.99.
Where this comes from
Honda FR-V buyer questions
Is n22a i-ctdi dpf blockage and failed regeneration serious on a Honda FR-V?
We rate it major and common on the Honda FR-V. The Diesel Particulate Filter fitted to the N22A engine captures soot from combustion and relies on periodic passive regeneration during sustained high-load motorway driving to burn off accumulated particulate matter. Vehicles used predominantly in urban or short-trip driving never reach the exhaust temperatures required for passive regeneration, causing the filter to exceed its safe soot load threshold and triggering forced active regeneration attempts that also fail if the journey is too short.
How much does it cost to fix on a Honda FR-V?
≈A$460 to ≈A$4,140 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Honda FR-V years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2004–2009 Honda FR-V. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Watch for: DPF warning lamp illuminated on the instrument cluster, often accompanied by the engine management light. If a workshop inspection is possible: Read DPF differential pressure sensor values with Honda HDS; check DPF soot and ash loading percentage; attempt a forced active regeneration via scan tool and verify exhaust back-pressure returns to normal; inspect DPF casing for cracks or melt damage from failed regeneration events. Look here: Underside of vehicle in the exhaust system, immediately downstream of the catalytic converter beneath the floor