Renault Megane: 1.5 dCi turbo, injector and DPF problems (pre-2012 crank-bearing wear)
1.5 dCi turbo, injector and DPF problems (pre-2012 crank-bearing wear) is a common engine fault on the Renault Megane on the 2010–2016 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs ≈A$640 to ≈A$3,220 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 27 documented faults on the Renault Megane.
- Vehicle
- Renault Megane
- Engine
- 1.5L
- Years
- 2010–2016
- Fuel
- diesel
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.
What goes wrong
The Megane III 1.5 dCi (K9K) is prone to turbocharger failure, injector wear and EGR/DPF clogging – showing as black smoke, power loss, rough idle and warning lights. Pre-2012 engines also had crankshaft-bearing wear that could be terminal; the post-2012 110hp version fixed this. A DPF clogged by short-trip driving can sometimes be cleared with a long run, but turbo, injector or bearing problems are serious money.
What you would notice
- Black smoke and power loss
- Turbo whine that fades to no boost
- Rough idle / DPF or engine light
- Knock or rumble from the bottom end (pre-2012)
How to check it
Where to look. Turbo and injectors on the engine; DPF in the exhaust; crank bearings inside the block
On the drive check for strong smooth pull with no turbo whine-to-nothing and no black smoke or limp mode.
Listen at idle for any deep knock/rumble (bearing wear on early cars).
Confirm which year/engine it is (post-2012 110hp is safer) and ask for turbo/injector/DPF history.
What it costs to put right
≈A$640 to ≈A$3,220 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Is this a pre- or post-2012 1.5 dCi, and has the turbo or injectors been replaced?”
- “Any DPF warnings, and is it used for short or long trips?”
Now check the Renault Megane you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car still has money owing on it, has been written off or reported stolen, what kms it showed in past sale ads, whether it has had accident repair claims and what it is worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate and its state for the A$17.90 Vehicle Check, or the full history from A$24.99.
Where this comes from
- Automotive24.center – 'Renault Megane III (2008-2016) common problems'
- Renault Forums (renaultforums.co.uk) 'Megane 15dci Turbo failure' thread
Renault Megane buyer questions
Is 1.5 dci turbo, injector and dpf problems (pre-2012 crank-bearing wear) serious on a Renault Megane?
We rate it major and common on the Renault Megane. The Megane III 1.5 dCi (K9K) is prone to turbocharger failure, injector wear and EGR/DPF clogging – showing as black smoke, power loss, rough idle and warning lights. Pre-2012 engines also had crankshaft-bearing wear that could be terminal; the post-2012 110hp version fixed this. A DPF clogged by short-trip driving can sometimes be cleared with a long run, but turbo, injector or bearing problems are serious money.
How much does it cost to fix on a Renault Megane?
≈A$640 to ≈A$3,220 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Renault Megane years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2010–2016 Renault Megane. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
On the drive check for strong smooth pull with no turbo whine-to-nothing and no black smoke or limp mode. Listen at idle for any deep knock/rumble (bearing wear on early cars). Confirm which year/engine it is (post-2012 110hp is safer) and ask for turbo/injector/DPF history. Look here: Turbo and injectors on the engine; DPF in the exhaust; crank bearings inside the block