Toyota Crown: Underbody, wheel-arch and seam rust on older Japanese imports
Underbody, wheel-arch and seam rust on older Japanese imports is a common body & rust fault on the Toyota Crown on the 2000–2008 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs ≈A$460 to ≈A$3,680 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 24 documented faults on the Toyota Crown.
- Vehicle
- Toyota Crown
- Years
- 2000–2008
- System
- Body & Rust
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
S170 and S180 Crowns are now 18-25 years old and import guides specifically warn of rust on the undercarriage, rear wheel arches and body seams, particularly on cars that lived in coastal or snow-belt Japan where roads are salted. Surface rust hidden under underseal can be well advanced by the time it shows. In Australia, perforated corrosion in a structural area is a roadworthy failure and requires a specialist repair certifier, so a rusty Crown can quickly become uneconomic to keep legal.
What you would notice
- Bubbling paint on rear wheel arches or sill seams
- Flaky brown scale on the underbody, subframe or exhaust hangers
- Damp or musty smell in the boot, rust stains around the boot floor seams
How to check it
Where to look. Rear wheel arches, sills, boot floor, underbody seams and subframe mounts
Crouch and look along the sills, rear wheel arches and door bottoms for bubbling. Lift the boot carpet and spare wheel and check the boot floor and seams. If possible, look underneath with a torch at the rear subframe, floor seams and suspension mounting points - fresh thick underseal on an old import can be hiding repairs. Ask when it was imported and whether it has ever needed rust repairs for a roadworthy.
What it costs to put right
≈A$460 to ≈A$3,680 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has it ever failed a roadworthy for rust?”
- “When was it imported, and do you know what part of Japan it came from?”
- “Has any rust repair or fresh underseal been done?”
Now check the Toyota Crown you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car still has money owing on it, has been written off or reported stolen, what kms it showed in past sale ads, whether it has had accident repair claims and what it is worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate and its state for the A$17.90 Vehicle Check, or the full history from A$24.99.
Where this comes from
- JDMbuysell Toyota Crown S170 buyer's guide (rust risk on older imports)
- JDMbuysell Toyota Crown buyer's guide (underbody seam rust on coastal imports)
Toyota Crown buyer questions
Is underbody, wheel-arch and seam rust on older japanese imports serious on a Toyota Crown?
We rate it major and common on the Toyota Crown. S170 and S180 Crowns are now 18-25 years old and import guides specifically warn of rust on the undercarriage, rear wheel arches and body seams, particularly on cars that lived in coastal or snow-belt Japan where roads are salted. Surface rust hidden under underseal can be well advanced by the time it shows. In Australia, perforated corrosion in a structural area is a roadworthy failure and requires a specialist repair certifier, so a rusty Crown can quickly become uneconomic to keep legal.
How much does it cost to fix on a Toyota Crown?
≈A$460 to ≈A$3,680 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Toyota Crown years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2000–2008 Toyota Crown. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Crouch and look along the sills, rear wheel arches and door bottoms for bubbling. Lift the boot carpet and spare wheel and check the boot floor and seams. If possible, look underneath with a torch at the rear subframe, floor seams and suspension mounting points - fresh thick underseal on an old import can be hiding repairs. Ask when it was imported and whether it has ever needed rust repairs for a roadworthy. Look here: Rear wheel arches, sills, boot floor, underbody seams and subframe mounts