Toyota Mark II: 1JZ-GTE turbo oil smoke and abuse/modification history on the turbo cars
1JZ-GTE turbo oil smoke and abuse/modification history on the turbo cars is a common engine fault on the Toyota Mark II on the 2000–2007 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs ≈A$740 to ≈A$2,580 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 22 documented faults on the Toyota Mark II.
- Vehicle
- Toyota Mark II
- Engine
- 1JZ-GTE
- Years
- 2000–2007
- Fuel
- petrol
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The single-turbo VVT-i 1JZ-GTE fitted to the JZX110 iR-V and turbo Blit is fundamentally durable, but on 20-plus-year imports the turbo seals and bearings wear, and the restricted factory oil drain plus high blow-by lead to oil smoke. Many turbo cars were also boosted, tuned or drifted before export, so overboost, detonation and worn or non-standard oil-feed plumbing are real risks. This is a wear- and abuse-driven fault, not a low-km one.
What you would notice
- Blue/grey smoke from the exhaust on start-up, over-run or under boost
- Whistling, whining or rattling from the turbo
- Higher than standard boost, surging or audible detonation under load
- Oil weeping around the turbo, oil-feed line or VVT-i oil feed
How to check it
Where to look. Turbocharger and oil feed/drain lines on the exhaust side of the 1JZ-GTE, VVT-i oil feed at the front of the head
Do a cold start and watch for blue smoke, then a full-throttle pull listening for detonation and watching boost behaviour.
Inspect the turbo for shaft play and oil residue, check the oil-feed/drain lines for non-standard or leaking fittings, and look for a piggyback ECU, boost controller or other tuning that signals a hard life.
Confirm oil-pressure light extinguishes promptly.
What it costs to put right
≈A$740 to ≈A$2,580 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Is the engine standard boost and tune, or has it been modified?”
- “Was the car ever drifted, tracked or run at raised boost?”
- “When were the turbo and oil-feed lines last inspected or serviced, and is there proof?”
Now check the Toyota Mark II you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car still has money owing on it, has been written off or reported stolen, what kms it showed in past sale ads, whether it has had accident repair claims and what it is worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate and its state for the A$17.90 Vehicle Check, or the full history from A$24.99.
Where this comes from
Toyota Mark II buyer questions
Is 1jz-gte turbo oil smoke and abuse/modification history on the turbo cars serious on a Toyota Mark II?
We rate it major and common on the Toyota Mark II. The single-turbo VVT-i 1JZ-GTE fitted to the JZX110 iR-V and turbo Blit is fundamentally durable, but on 20-plus-year imports the turbo seals and bearings wear, and the restricted factory oil drain plus high blow-by lead to oil smoke. Many turbo cars were also boosted, tuned or drifted before export, so overboost, detonation and worn or non-standard oil-feed plumbing are real risks. This is a wear- and abuse-driven fault, not a low-km one.
How much does it cost to fix on a Toyota Mark II?
≈A$740 to ≈A$2,580 at independent workshop rates, shown as an approximate guide in Australian dollars. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Toyota Mark II years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2000–2007 Toyota Mark II. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Do a cold start and watch for blue smoke, then a full-throttle pull listening for detonation and watching boost behaviour. Inspect the turbo for shaft play and oil residue, check the oil-feed/drain lines for non-standard or leaking fittings, and look for a piggyback ECU, boost controller or other tuning that signals a hard life. Confirm oil-pressure light extinguishes promptly. Look here: Turbocharger and oil feed/drain lines on the exhaust side of the 1JZ-GTE, VVT-i oil feed at the front of the head