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BMW M2: S58 intake valve carbon build-up on the G87

S58 intake valve carbon build-up on the G87 is a common engine fault on the BMW M2 on the 2023–2025 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $800 to $2,800 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 7 documented faults on the BMW M2.

Vehicle
BMW M2
Only on
Bi-Turbo / twin-turbo / BMW M
Engine
S58
Years
2023–2025
Fuel
petrol
System
Engine

This page covers the BMW M2 as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All BMW M2 faults7 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the PCV / oil separator or Turbocharger yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

The current M2 uses the same S58 twin-turbo six as the M3 and M4, and inherits its one predictable maintenance fault. Direct injection sprays fuel into the cylinder rather than past the intake valves, so nothing washes them clean, and oil vapour from the crankcase ventilation deposits carbon on the valve backs instead. It becomes noticeable around 60,000 to 80,000 km as a rough idle, a slight misfire and a flat patch low in the rev range. Context matters here: the S58 is regarded as substantially more robust than the S55 it replaced and carries no equivalent rod bearing concern, so this is a service item to budget for rather than a warning sign about the engine. It is labour-heavy because the intake has to come off, and it recurs.

What you would notice

  • Rough or uneven idle, worst from cold
  • Slight misfire, or a stumble when accelerating gently
  • Flat patch in the power delivery low in the rev range
  • Engine warning light, sometimes with misfire codes
  • Fuel economy quietly worse than it used to be

How to check it

Where to look. Top of the engine — intake valves and intake manifold

Be there for a cold start and sit with the engine idling, because that is when a carboned engine shows itself. Listen and feel for an uneven idle or a slight shake, watch the tachometer for a needle that will not settle, then check again with the air conditioning switched on, which loads the engine at idle and exposes a weak cylinder. On the drive, resist using the performance at first: accelerate gently from low revs in a higher gear, which is exactly where carbon produces a hesitation or a flat patch, and where hard acceleration hides it. Then give it one firm pull through the range and confirm it delivers cleanly all the way. Watch the dash for an engine warning light. Ask whether the intake valves have ever been cleaned and at what mileage — a normal service question on a direct-injection engine — and ask whether the car has been tracked, since track use changes what else is worth checking. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for stored misfire counters to be read.

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator, Turbocharger.

What it costs to put right

$800 to $2,800 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the intake valves ever been cleaned, and at what mileage?”
  • “Does it idle roughly or hesitate at low revs?”
  • “Has the car ever been used on a track?”

Now check the BMW M2 you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

BMW M2 buyer questions

Is s58 intake valve carbon build-up on the g87 serious on a BMW M2?

We rate it major and common on the BMW M2. The current M2 uses the same S58 twin-turbo six as the M3 and M4, and inherits its one predictable maintenance fault. Direct injection sprays fuel into the cylinder rather than past the intake valves, so nothing washes them clean, and oil vapour from the crankcase ventilation deposits carbon on the valve backs instead. It becomes noticeable around 60,000 to 80,000 km as a rough idle, a slight misfire and a flat patch low in the rev range. Context matters here: the S58 is regarded as substantially more robust than the S55 it replaced and carries no equivalent rod bearing concern, so this is a service item to budget for rather than a warning sign about the engine. It is labour-heavy because the intake has to come off, and it recurs.

How much does it cost to fix on a BMW M2?

$800 to $2,800 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which BMW M2 years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2023–2025 BMW M2. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Be there for a cold start and sit with the engine idling, because that is when a carboned engine shows itself. Listen and feel for an uneven idle or a slight shake, watch the tachometer for a needle that will not settle, then check again with the air conditioning switched on, which loads the engine at idle and exposes a weak cylinder. On the drive, resist using the performance at first: accelerate gently from low revs in a higher gear, which is exactly where carbon produces a hesitation or a flat patch, and where hard acceleration hides it. Then give it one firm pull through the range and confirm it delivers cleanly all the way. Watch the dash for an engine warning light. Ask whether the intake valves have ever been cleaned and at what mileage — a normal service question on a direct-injection engine — and ask whether the car has been tracked, since track use changes what else is worth checking. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for stored misfire counters to be read. Look here: Top of the engine — intake valves and intake manifold