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BMW M3: S58 oil consumption — and why topping up matters more here

S58 oil consumption — and why topping up matters more here is a common engine fault on the BMW M3 on the 2021–2025 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $200 to $5,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 14 documented faults on the BMW M3.

Vehicle
BMW M3
Only on
BMW M
Engine
S58
Years
2021–2025
Fuel
petrol
System
Engine

This page covers the BMW M3 as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All BMW M3 faults14 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the PCV / oil separator or Turbocharger yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

Excessive oil consumption is among the most frequently reported S58 complaints, with owners needing to top up more often than they expected. On most cars that is an annoyance. On a high-output turbocharged engine it is worth more attention, for two reasons. The oil is doing more work — it cools the turbos and the pistons as well as lubricating — so running low costs more here than on an ordinary engine. And the oil that leaves the engine goes somewhere: it passes through the crankcase ventilation into the intake, which is what feeds the carbon build-up on the valves that this engine also suffers. The two faults are the same oil, seen at two ends. A car whose owner checks the level between services is genuinely better looked after than one whose owner has never opened the bonnet.

What you would notice

  • Oil level noticeably down between services
  • Low oil warning appearing before the next service is due
  • Blue smoke from the exhaust, especially under hard acceleration or on lift-off
  • Oil residue in the intake pipework
  • Smell of burnt oil after a spirited drive

How to check it

Where to look. Engine — piston rings, valve stem seals and the crankcase ventilation system

Check the oil level yourself rather than trusting a service sticker — on this engine it is the single most informative thing under the bonnet. Use the car's electronic oil measurement if fitted, following its instructions with the engine at the right temperature, or the dipstick if there is one, and note exactly where the level sits relative to the marks and how long it has been since the last service. Then ask the seller directly how much oil the car uses between services and how often they top it up. An owner who answers precisely — "about half a litre between changes" — is telling you they check, which matters more than the number itself. Look at the oil filler cap and the top of the engine for heavy residue. Have someone watch behind as you accelerate hard once and again as you lift off, looking for blue smoke. Ask what oil is used and whether it is the specified grade. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for a consumption check and for the stored oil level history to be read.

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator, Turbocharger.

What it costs to put right

$200 to $5,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “How much oil does it use between services, and how often do you check?”
  • “Has a low oil warning ever appeared before a service was due?”
  • “What oil is used, and is it the specified grade?”

Now check the BMW M3 you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

BMW M3 buyer questions

Is s58 oil consumption — and why topping up matters more here serious on a BMW M3?

We rate it major and common on the BMW M3. Excessive oil consumption is among the most frequently reported S58 complaints, with owners needing to top up more often than they expected. On most cars that is an annoyance. On a high-output turbocharged engine it is worth more attention, for two reasons. The oil is doing more work — it cools the turbos and the pistons as well as lubricating — so running low costs more here than on an ordinary engine. And the oil that leaves the engine goes somewhere: it passes through the crankcase ventilation into the intake, which is what feeds the carbon build-up on the valves that this engine also suffers. The two faults are the same oil, seen at two ends. A car whose owner checks the level between services is genuinely better looked after than one whose owner has never opened the bonnet.

How much does it cost to fix on a BMW M3?

$200 to $5,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which BMW M3 years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2021–2025 BMW M3. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Check the oil level yourself rather than trusting a service sticker — on this engine it is the single most informative thing under the bonnet. Use the car's electronic oil measurement if fitted, following its instructions with the engine at the right temperature, or the dipstick if there is one, and note exactly where the level sits relative to the marks and how long it has been since the last service. Then ask the seller directly how much oil the car uses between services and how often they top it up. An owner who answers precisely — "about half a litre between changes" — is telling you they check, which matters more than the number itself. Look at the oil filler cap and the top of the engine for heavy residue. Have someone watch behind as you accelerate hard once and again as you lift off, looking for blue smoke. Ask what oil is used and whether it is the specified grade. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for a consumption check and for the stored oil level history to be read. Look here: Engine — piston rings, valve stem seals and the crankcase ventilation system