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Ferrari 599: F1 clutch wear and hydraulic actuator faults — get the clutch life readout in writing

F1 clutch wear and hydraulic actuator faults — get the clutch life readout in writing is a very common transmission fault on the Ferrari 599 on the 2006–2012 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $5,000 to $14,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 5 documented faults on the Ferrari 599.

Vehicle
Ferrari 599
Years
2006–2012
Fuel
petrol
System
Transmission

This page covers the Ferrari 599 as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Ferrari 599 faults5 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Clutch yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

Almost every 599 GTB has the F1 paddle-shift gearbox, an automated single-plate clutch that slips on every take-off, and with 620 horsepower going through it the clutch is the car's biggest consumable. Jerky shifts or a hesitation before the clutch takes up point to the hydraulic actuator, and the clutch itself wears with no warning until it is gone — the workshop reads the remaining life as a percentage, and anything under 50 percent is a replacement in the near future. A clutch is a gearbox-out job on a V12 Ferrari and it is the reason people call an unloved 599 a money pit. The percentage should be on the last invoice; if the seller does not know it, that tells you something too.

What you would notice

  • No clutch life percentage in the recent service history
  • Jerky take-off or a pause before the clutch engages
  • Hesitant or clunky shifts, worse when hot
  • The F1 pump running long or cycling constantly at idle
  • Gearbox warning light or F1 fault message

How to check it

Where to look. Clutch between engine and transaxle; F1 hydraulic pump and actuator on the gearbox at the rear

  1. Ask the seller for the clutch life percentage from the last service and for the invoice that shows it — under 50 percent is a bill in your first year of ownership and should come off the price.

  2. Sit at idle with the stereo off and listen behind you for the F1 pump: a short run and then silence is healthy, a pump that runs on or cycles every few seconds is leaking pressure.

  3. Pull away from rest a dozen times on the drive, gently and then firmly, feeling for judder or delay, and run up and down through the gears once hot.

  4. Watch for a gearbox warning.

  5. Ask whether the clutch, actuator or pump has ever been replaced.

Parts involved: Clutch.

What it costs to put right

$5,000 to $14,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “What was the clutch life percentage at the last service, and can I see it in writing?”
  • “Has the clutch, the F1 actuator or the pump ever been replaced?”
  • “Is the car used in town or on the open road?”

Now check the Ferrari 599 you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in the sources below. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them.

  • Giallo Modena — 'The Ultimate Buying Guide to the Ferrari 599'
  • stickybuttonfix — '599 GTB Fiorano Ferrari Most Common Issues'
  • Car Examer — 'Ferrari 599 Problems: What To Know Before Buying'

Ferrari 599 buyer questions

Is f1 clutch wear and hydraulic actuator faults — get the clutch life readout in writing serious on a Ferrari 599?

We rate it major and very common on the Ferrari 599. Almost every 599 GTB has the F1 paddle-shift gearbox, an automated single-plate clutch that slips on every take-off, and with 620 horsepower going through it the clutch is the car's biggest consumable. Jerky shifts or a hesitation before the clutch takes up point to the hydraulic actuator, and the clutch itself wears with no warning until it is gone — the workshop reads the remaining life as a percentage, and anything under 50 percent is a replacement in the near future. A clutch is a gearbox-out job on a V12 Ferrari and it is the reason people call an unloved 599 a money pit. The percentage should be on the last invoice; if the seller does not know it, that tells you something too.

How much does it cost to fix on a Ferrari 599?

$5,000 to $14,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Ferrari 599 years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2006–2012 Ferrari 599. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Ask the seller for the clutch life percentage from the last service and for the invoice that shows it — under 50 percent is a bill in your first year of ownership and should come off the price. Sit at idle with the stereo off and listen behind you for the F1 pump: a short run and then silence is healthy, a pump that runs on or cycles every few seconds is leaking pressure. Pull away from rest a dozen times on the drive, gently and then firmly, feeling for judder or delay, and run up and down through the gears once hot. Watch for a gearbox warning. Ask whether the clutch, actuator or pump has ever been replaced. Look here: Clutch between engine and transaxle; F1 hydraulic pump and actuator on the gearbox at the rear