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Infiniti2001–2014 Critical issues documented

Infiniti G35 V35: common faults & what to check

The V35 is the Infiniti G35 built 2001–2008. Of the 10 faults documented for the G35, 3 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Infiniti G35

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

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10

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$650–$2,100

Typical repair

6

Systems covered

You're looking at the V35

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2004 Infiniti G35 is the V35 generation (2001 to 2008).

We cannot narrow the engine list to this year, so every engine this model was sold with is offered.

Start your free check on this Infiniti G35

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Infiniti G35 V35Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the G35 came with 8, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Likely — same engine family

Infiniti G35 · 2004

Narrowed by capacity and fuel. No engine code is recorded for this option, so a fault specific to one engine of that size cannot be confirmed from it.

Matched on capacity and fuel, not on an engine code.

matched on 3.5L engine

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Infiniti G35 before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect the ball joint boot for splitting, cracking, or absence of the protective rubber.

    See why

    V35/V36 Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

    The front lower control arms on V35 and V36 Skylines use pressed-in ball joints that are integral to the arm on many variants, requiring full arm replacement when the ball joint wears rather than allowing a simple joint swap. The ball joint boot seal degrades with age and road contamination, allowing grease to escape and moisture and grit to enter the joint. Once the lubricant is contaminated the ball stud wears rapidly, developing excessive axial and radial play. A worn ball joint changes front wheel camber and castor dynamically under cornering and braking loads, producing vague steering and tyre scrub. In advanced wear the joint can separate, causing sudden and catastrophic loss of front wheel geometry control. The V35 used in New Zealand's climate accelerates boot degradation due to gravel road dust and seasonal temperature swings.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during turning
    • Vague or wandering steering feel, particularly under braking
    • Uneven or rapid inner tyre wear on front axle
    • Visible split or missing ball joint boot with grease spray on inner wheel
    • Front end pulling to one side under heavy braking

    Typically $650–$1,900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Cold-start the engine from ambient temperature and listen at the front of the engine for chain rattle duration.

    See why

    VQ35DE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold Rattle

    The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the VQ35DE loses oil pressure after extended shutdown, allowing the chain to slap against the guide at cold start. At high mileage the tensioner ratchet pawl and primary chain guide wear significantly, causing persistent rattle that takes longer than 5 seconds to clear. Left unaddressed, chain stretch can advance to jump-tooth risk on the intake cam sprockets, leading to valve-to-piston contact. Most prevalent above 120,000 km on cars that have seen extended oil change intervals.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattling or ticking from front of engine for 3-10 seconds on cold start
    • Rattle clears once oil pressure builds but returns after overnight soak
    • Occasional CEL for cam timing deviation (P0011, P0021) at high mileage
    • Visible chain slack visible through cam cover inspection port if present

    Typically $950–$2,400 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect rear subframe area for hydraulic fluid staining.

    See why

    HICAS Rear-Wheel Steering Hydraulic Fluid Leak

    V35/V36 Skylines equipped with HICAS (High Capacity Active Steering) rear-wheel steering develop weeping leaks at the hydraulic actuator seals and high-pressure hose connections. Hydraulic fluid loss leads to loss of rear steering function and elimination error codes. Many NZ buyers elect to fit a HICAS eliminator bar rather than repair the system, making this a widely accepted failure in the market. Vehicles retaining active HICAS require thorough inspection of the hydraulic circuit.

    What you would notice

    • Power steering fluid loss without visible front steering rack leak
    • Rear end feels vague or unpredictable at speed
    • HICAS warning light illuminated
    • Wet staining under rear subframe area

    Typically $500–$2,000 to put right.

See all 3 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.
Engine, transmission & cooling1

01VQ35DE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold Rattle

Cold-start the engine from ambient temperature and listen at the front of the engine for chain rattle duration.petrol2003–2006Engine
CommonEngine $950–$2,400 to fix

The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the VQ35DE loses oil pressure after extended shutdown, allowing the chain to slap against the guide at cold start. At high mileage the tensioner ratchet pawl and primary chain guide wear significantly, causing persistent rattle that takes longer than 5 seconds to clear. Left unaddressed, chain stretch can advance to jump-tooth risk on the intake cam sprockets, leading to valve-to-piston contact. Most prevalent above 120,000 km on cars that have seen extended oil change intervals.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or ticking from front of engine for 3-10 seconds on cold start
  • Rattle clears once oil pressure builds but returns after overnight soak
  • Occasional CEL for cam timing deviation (P0011, P0021) at high mileage
  • Visible chain slack visible through cam cover inspection port if present

What to check

Cold-start the engine from ambient temperature and listen at the front of the engine for chain rattle duration. Check oil level and condition — dirty or low oil accelerates wear. Ask for service history to assess oil change frequency. If a workshop inspection is possible: At high mileage request cam timing bank deviation codes from a scan tool.

Where to look: Front of engine block, behind front crankshaft pulley and timing cover — both primary and secondary tensioners accessible after front cover removal

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain tensioner or chain guide ever been replaced?”
  • “What is the oil change interval and which oil specification has been used?”
  • “Has the car ever shown a P0011 or P0021 cam timing code?”
  • “What is the current odometer reading and when was the last service?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical1

02V35/V36 Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

Inspect the ball joint boot for splitting, cracking, or absence of the protective rubber.petrol2001–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $650–$1,900 to fix

The front lower control arms on V35 and V36 Skylines use pressed-in ball joints that are integral to the arm on many variants, requiring full arm replacement when the ball joint wears rather than allowing a simple joint swap. The ball joint boot seal degrades with age and road contamination, allowing grease to escape and moisture and grit to enter the joint. Once the lubricant is contaminated the ball stud wears rapidly, developing excessive axial and radial play. A worn ball joint changes front wheel camber and castor dynamically under cornering and braking loads, producing vague steering and tyre scrub. In advanced wear the joint can separate, causing sudden and catastrophic loss of front wheel geometry control. The V35 used in New Zealand's climate accelerates boot degradation due to gravel road dust and seasonal temperature swings.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during turning
  • Vague or wandering steering feel, particularly under braking
  • Uneven or rapid inner tyre wear on front axle
  • Visible split or missing ball joint boot with grease spray on inner wheel
  • Front end pulling to one side under heavy braking

What to check

Inspect the ball joint boot for splitting, cracking, or absence of the protective rubber. Rock the wheel to feel for any looseness through the lower arm pivot. Also check for grease contamination on the inner wheel face or surrounding suspension components indicating a split boot. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle safely raised on a hoist, grasp each front wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and apply firm force to check for vertical play in the lower ball joint.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, inboard end (chassis pivot) and outboard ball joint connecting arm to front upright/knuckle

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arms or ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Has any clunking been noticed from the front suspension?”
  • “Are the tyre wear patterns even across the front axle?”
  • “Has the vehicle had a recent wheel alignment, and were any suspension faults noted?”
Fluid leaks1

03HICAS Rear-Wheel Steering Hydraulic Fluid Leak

Inspect rear subframe area for hydraulic fluid staining.petrol2001–2014Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Infiniti G35 engines and years7 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling3

01VQ35DE Intake Valve Stem Seal Wear & Oil Consumption

The VQ35DE DOHC V6 uses intake valve stem seals made from a rubber compound that hardens and shrinks with age and heat cycling.petrol2005–2006EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

petrol2006–2014Transmission
CommonTransmission $400–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The RE5R05A 5-speed and RE7R01A 7-speed automatic transmissions used in V36 Skyline variants are susceptible to torque converter lock-up clutch shudder, typically triggered by degraded automatic transmission fluid breaking down the clutch friction modifier additive. The lock-up clutch engages at light throttle in higher gears to reduce slip losses; when the friction modifier is depleted the clutch transitions between slip and lock unpredictably, creating a characteristic high-frequency vibration that can be mistaken for a drivetrain imbalance. Continued operation accelerates clutch lining wear and contaminates the ATF with friction material debris, ultimately requiring converter replacement.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic vibration or judder felt through the body at steady highway cruising speed under light throttle in lock-up
  • Shudder that clears immediately when accelerating firmly or decelerating, as the lock-up clutch disengages
  • Dark, burnt-smelling ATF with visible metallic or friction material debris on dipstick or in pan

What to check

  1. Drive the vehicle at steady-state cruise between 60–100 km/h at light throttle in top gear and note any pulsing or judder felt through the seat and floor.
  2. Check ATF condition and level – dark brown, burnt-smelling fluid or fluid with metallic particles confirms degraded condition.
  3. Inspect the transmission pan (if accessible) for friction material sediment.
  4. A transmission fluid flush with Nissan Matic-S or Matic-K to the correct specification often resolves early-stage shudder; persistent shudder after a flush indicates clutch lining wear requiring converter overhaul.

Where to look: Torque converter between engine and automatic transmission, forward of the transmission bell housing

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the automatic transmission fluid last changed, and what fluid specification was used?”
  • “Does the car vibrate or judder at highway speeds under light throttle?”
  • “Has the transmission ever been serviced or had the torque converter replaced?”

03VQ35HR/VQ25HR Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle on Cold Start

Cold-start the engine and listen for a metallic rattling or ticking from the front of the engine that clears within 10–20 seconds.petrol2006–2014Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

The hydraulic timing chain tensioners on the VQ35HR and VQ25HR engines rely on oil pressure to maintain chain tension. On cold start, the delay in oil pressure build-up allows the primary and secondary chain tensioners to momentarily lose hydraulic load, permitting the chain to slap against the guide rails. Prolonged neglect accelerates guide rail wear and risks chain jump, which causes catastrophic valve-to-piston contact on these interference engines.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling from the front of the engine on cold start that typically quiets after oil pressure builds
  • Persistent rattle that does not clear even when warm, indicating advanced guide rail or tensioner ratchet wear
  • Check engine light with variable valve timing codes (P0011, P0021) if chain stretch causes cam timing deviation

What to check

Cold-start the engine and listen for a metallic rattling or ticking from the front of the engine that clears within 10–20 seconds. With engine warm, remove the oil filler cap and check for grey or milky sludge indicating infrequent oil changes that accelerate tensioner bore wear. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the front timing cover if rattle persists warm to inspect tensioner plunger, ratchet teeth, and chain guide rails for wear or cracking.

Where to look: Front of engine block, behind the front timing cover on both cam-drive chains

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or tensioners ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “What oil change interval has been followed, and what viscosity is used?”
  • “Does the engine make any rattling noise in the first few seconds after cold start?”
Electrical1

01Electric Power Steering Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2006–2014Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $700–$2,500 to fix

Does not apply

EPS system can develop a fault causing loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort especially during low-speed manoeuvring

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering during test drive — any heavy or inconsistent feel indicates a fault.

Where to look: EPS rack and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering failure been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Rear Multi-Link Suspension Bush Collapse

Inspect the toe-control link bush first as it controls rear toe and is most critical to handling stability.2006–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $700–$2,100 to fix

Does not apply

The V36 Skyline rear suspension uses a five-link multi-link arrangement with rubber-bonded bushes at each link mounting point. The inner and outer bushes in the rear lower lateral links and the toe-control link are particularly susceptible to hydrolytic degradation and cracking, especially in vehicles subjected to NZ road salt, temperature cycling, or sustained high loads. As the rubber deteriorates, the bush inner sleeve becomes decoupled from the outer shell, allowing the link geometry to shift under cornering and braking forces. This produces progressive rear steer behaviour, unpredictable oversteer on mid-corner bumps, and rapid rear tyre wear on the inner shoulder.

Symptoms to notice

  • Progressive looseness or instability in the rear end on cornering or under mid-corner braking
  • Inner-edge rear tyre wear inconsistent with alignment settings or worn unevenly side-to-side
  • Thumping or knocking from the rear suspension over sharp transverse bumps or rutted road surfaces

What to check

Inspect the toe-control link bush first as it controls rear toe and is most critical to handling stability. Check for inner tyre shoulder wear on the rear tyres, which indicates toe or camber deviation from bush failure. A four-wheel alignment printout showing rear toe or camber outside specification on a vehicle with no accident history points to bush collapse. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise the rear of the vehicle and with a pry bar check each rear link bush for rotational and axial movement; separated rubber-to-metal bond is visible as cracking or voids in the rubber.

Where to look: Rear subframe and knuckle mounting points of the lower lateral links, upper links, and toe-control arm on both sides

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear suspension ever had bushes replaced or been inspected by a specialist?”
  • “Does the rear end feel stable and planted on motorway on-ramps or long corners?”
  • “Is there any unusual or uneven wear pattern on the rear tyres?”

02Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

2006–2014Brakes
CommonBrakes $180–$550 to fix

Does not apply

The V36 Skyline uses sliding-type brake calipers front and rear, which depend on two grease-lubricated guide pins per caliper to allow the caliper body to float and apply even clamping force across both brake pads. In New Zealand's climate, moisture ingress into the guide pin bores causes the steel pins to corrode and seize within their aluminium caliper carriers, preventing the caliper from retracting fully after brake application. The resulting brake drag causes accelerating heat build-up in the rotor and pad, leading to premature pad and rotor wear, vibration under braking from uneven rotor temperature, and in severe cases thermal cracking of the disc or brake fluid vapour lock from localised overheating.

Symptoms to notice

  • Uneven brake pad wear with the inboard pad worn significantly more than the outboard on the affected caliper
  • One wheel rim noticeably hotter than the others after normal driving, indicating a dragging caliper
  • Pulsation or vibration through the brake pedal caused by uneven rotor wear from thermal cycling under drag conditions

What to check

After a normal drive, carefully check the temperature of each wheel rim by hand — a seized caliper produces a noticeably hotter rim on the affected corner. Inspect brake pad wear side-to-side on each axle; seized pins cause the inboard pad to wear significantly faster than the outboard. Check rotor faces for heat-bluing, scoring, or uneven thickness indicating drag. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the caliper guide pin bolts and attempt to withdraw the pins; a seized pin will resist extraction or show heavy corrosion.

Where to look: Guide pin bores in the brake caliper carrier brackets at each wheel, most commonly the rear calipers which see lower operating temperatures and retain moisture longer

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the brake pads and rotors last replaced, and were the caliper guide pins serviced at the same time?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side under braking, or does the brake pedal pulsate?”
  • “Has any wheel ever felt noticeably hotter than the others after driving?”

03Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Clunk

The V36 Skyline uses an electrically-assisted rack-and-pinion steering system.2008–2014Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$1,600 to fix

Does not apply

The V36 Skyline uses an electrically-assisted rack-and-pinion steering system. The rack pinion bearing preload and internal rack support bush are set with precise tolerances from the factory; as these wear or the support bush degrades, the rack develops free play that manifests as a rattle or clunk when the steering wheel is moved slightly at centre or when road surface irregularities feed back through the rack. The EPS motor-to-rack coupling can also develop looseness, adding a mechanical knock synchronised with small steering inputs. Left unaddressed, the play worsens and can trigger EPS control unit fault codes as position sensor readings become inconsistent.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clunking sound from the steering rack area when making small steering corrections or traversing rough pavement
  • EPS warning lamp illuminating intermittently, accompanied by increased steering effort
  • Vague on-centre steering feel or a distinct notch through the steering wheel when returning to centre

What to check

With the vehicle stationary and the engine running, gently oscillate the steering wheel through a few degrees around centre and feel and listen for a rattle or clunk from beneath the dashboard/front crossmember area. Have an assistant rock the steering while you observe the rack from underneath for movement at the rack mounting clamps or between the motor coupling and the pinion shaft. Confirm the steering column universal joint boots are intact and not masking column-origin noise. If a workshop inspection is possible: Check for EPS warning lamp or stored codes with a scan tool.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted to the front subframe, with the EPS assist motor on the rack pinion housing

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the steering ever made a rattling or knocking noise, particularly over rough roads?”
  • “Has the EPS warning lamp ever illuminated, or has the steering felt unusually heavy?”
  • “Has the steering rack or any steering components been replaced?”

Infiniti G35 faults in detail

Narrowed to the Infiniti G35 · 2004. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

HICAS Rear-Wheel Steering Hydraulic Fluid LeakMajor · Fluid Leaks

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Infiniti G35’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Infiniti models

Infiniti M14 documented faults

Infiniti G35 buyer questions

Is the Infiniti G35 reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 10 documented faults for the Infiniti G35, the recurring problem areas are suspension, engine, and transmission. A Infiniti G35 with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Infiniti G35?

We've catalogued 10 known faults for the Infiniti G35, covering suspension, engine, and transmission. All 10 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Infiniti G35?

Most single repairs on the Infiniti G35 fall between $650–$2,100 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 10 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Infiniti G35?

Yes. A Infiniti G35 inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.