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MajorVery commonBody & Rust

Mazda Mazda6: GG/GH Rear Wheel Arch and Sill End Rust Perforation

GG/GH Rear Wheel Arch and Sill End Rust Perforation is a very common body & rust fault on the Mazda Mazda6 on the 2002–2012 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $500 to $3,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 48 documented faults on the Mazda Mazda6.

Vehicle
Mazda Mazda6
Years
2002–2012
System
Body & Rust

This page covers the Mazda Mazda6 as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Mazda Mazda6 faults48 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Body corrosion yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

The rear wheel arches and rear sill ends on GG and GH Mazda6 models suffer from accelerated corrosion caused by road debris trapping moisture against the inner arch lip and the sill drainage channels blocking. Rust initiates at the factory seam welds on the outer arch lip and progresses inward through the wheel arch liner. The rear sill ends (behind the rear wheels) also perforate at the drain hole area. This is a cosmetic-to-structural progression: early cases are panel rust, but advanced perforation compromises the rear floor and sill box section which forms part of the side-impact structure.

What you would notice

  • Bubbling or lifting paint along the rear wheel arch outer lip, often first appearing as a blister line following the seam weld
  • Orange rust staining visible through the wheel arch liner from behind
  • Perforation holes at the lower rear sill end, sometimes hidden under plastic trim caps
  • In advanced cases, audible creak from the rear body when the car flexes over a dip, indicating sill box section compromise

How to check it

Where to look. Both rear wheel arches at the outer lip seam weld; rear lower sill ends behind the rear wheels

  1. Look for bubbling paint, rust staining through the arch liner, or perforation holes.

  2. Inspect the rear sill end caps and the lower sill panel immediately behind each rear wheel for bubbling, flaking paint, or holes.

  3. Press on any suspect areas with a gloved thumb — a crunching sensation indicates through-rust.

  4. Check drain holes in the sill for blockage and standing water.

  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the rear wheel arch liners (if fitted) and inspect the inner arch lip seam weld with a torch and probe.

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

What it costs to put right

$500 to $3,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Can I remove the rear wheel arch liners during inspection to check the seam welds?”
  • “Has the car had any rust repair or underseal treatment done on the rear arches or sills?”
  • “Has the car been garaged or stored outdoors in a coastal or high-rainfall area?”

Now check the Mazda Mazda6 you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

Mazda Mazda6 buyer questions

Is gg/gh rear wheel arch and sill end rust perforation serious on a Mazda Mazda6?

We rate it major and very common on the Mazda Mazda6. The rear wheel arches and rear sill ends on GG and GH Mazda6 models suffer from accelerated corrosion caused by road debris trapping moisture against the inner arch lip and the sill drainage channels blocking. Rust initiates at the factory seam welds on the outer arch lip and progresses inward through the wheel arch liner. The rear sill ends (behind the rear wheels) also perforate at the drain hole area. This is a cosmetic-to-structural progression: early cases are panel rust, but advanced perforation compromises the rear floor and sill box section which forms part of the side-impact structure.

How much does it cost to fix on a Mazda Mazda6?

$500 to $3,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Mazda Mazda6 years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2002–2012 Mazda Mazda6. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Look for bubbling paint, rust staining through the arch liner, or perforation holes. Inspect the rear sill end caps and the lower sill panel immediately behind each rear wheel for bubbling, flaking paint, or holes. Press on any suspect areas with a gloved thumb — a crunching sensation indicates through-rust. Check drain holes in the sill for blockage and standing water. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the rear wheel arch liners (if fitted) and inspect the inner arch lip seam weld with a torch and probe. Look here: Both rear wheel arches at the outer lip seam weld; rear lower sill ends behind the rear wheels