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CriticalCommonBody & Rust

Mitsubishi Galant Fortis: Corrosion on Japanese-import Lancers — subframe, arches and underbody

Corrosion on Japanese-import Lancers — subframe, arches and underbody is a common body & rust fault on the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis on the 1992–2003 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $800 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 18 documented faults on the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis.

Vehicle
Mitsubishi Galant Fortis
Years
1992–2003
System
Body & Rust

This page covers the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Mitsubishi Galant Fortis faults18 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Body corrosion yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

Lancers of this era sold in New Zealand are overwhelmingly Japanese used imports, and cars built for the Japanese domestic market were given noticeably less corrosion protection than export-market cars because Japan does not salt its roads. Landed here — particularly in coastal areas — they rust from underneath: the front subframe, inner sills, wheel arch lips, strut towers and the floor around the seat mounts. Mitsubishi has issued front subframe corrosion recalls on Lancer-family vehicles in other markets, which indicates how load-bearing the affected area is. In New Zealand, structural rust near suspension mounting points is an outright WoF failure and repairs are labour-intensive.

What you would notice

  • Bubbling or blistering paint along wheel arch lips and the bottoms of doors
  • Flaking, scaly metal visible under the car
  • Damp carpets or a musty smell inside
  • Fresh underseal or thick black coating hiding the underbody

How to check it

Where to look. Front subframe, inner sills, wheel arch lips, strut towers, boot floor and spare wheel well

Kneel at each wheel with a phone torch and look up into the arch and along the sill, running a finger along the arch lip and the seam where sill meets floor — bubbling paint means rust already through from behind. Look at the front subframe and the strut towers under the bonnet for scaly, layered corrosion rather than light surface rust. Lift the boot carpet and the spare wheel and check the well for damp, rust or fresh sealer. Inside, press the carpets in the footwells for dampness. Be suspicious of a very recently applied thick underseal, which is often covering rather than preventing. Check the WoF expiry and ask to see the last WoF sheet and any advisory notes. If a workshop inspection is possible: have it on a hoist and the sills and subframe tapped and probed, as sound metal and filler feel completely different.

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

What it costs to put right

$800 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Is this a Japanese import, and do you have the import and compliance paperwork?”
  • “Has any rust repair or welding been done, and where?”
  • “Has it ever failed a WoF, and what for?”

Now check the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

Mitsubishi Galant Fortis buyer questions

Is corrosion on japanese-import lancers — subframe, arches and underbody serious on a Mitsubishi Galant Fortis?

We rate it critical and common on the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis. Lancers of this era sold in New Zealand are overwhelmingly Japanese used imports, and cars built for the Japanese domestic market were given noticeably less corrosion protection than export-market cars because Japan does not salt its roads. Landed here — particularly in coastal areas — they rust from underneath: the front subframe, inner sills, wheel arch lips, strut towers and the floor around the seat mounts. Mitsubishi has issued front subframe corrosion recalls on Lancer-family vehicles in other markets, which indicates how load-bearing the affected area is. In New Zealand, structural rust near suspension mounting points is an outright WoF failure and repairs are labour-intensive.

How much does it cost to fix on a Mitsubishi Galant Fortis?

$800 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Mitsubishi Galant Fortis years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 1992–2003 Mitsubishi Galant Fortis. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Kneel at each wheel with a phone torch and look up into the arch and along the sill, running a finger along the arch lip and the seam where sill meets floor — bubbling paint means rust already through from behind. Look at the front subframe and the strut towers under the bonnet for scaly, layered corrosion rather than light surface rust. Lift the boot carpet and the spare wheel and check the well for damp, rust or fresh sealer. Inside, press the carpets in the footwells for dampness. Be suspicious of a very recently applied thick underseal, which is often covering rather than preventing. Check the WoF expiry and ask to see the last WoF sheet and any advisory notes. If a workshop inspection is possible: have it on a hoist and the sills and subframe tapped and probed, as sound metal and filler feel completely different. Look here: Front subframe, inner sills, wheel arch lips, strut towers, boot floor and spare wheel well