Renault Scenic: Crankshaft position sensor stalling and no-start
Crankshaft position sensor stalling and no-start is a common engine fault on the Renault Scenic on the 2003–2009 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $150 to $450 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 6 documented faults on the Renault Scenic.
- Vehicle
- Renault Scenic
- Years
- 2003–2009
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
Scenic II models widely suffer intermittent cutting out, stalling when warm, and hard or no-start caused by a failing crankshaft position sensor. The sensor signal drops out and disrupts engine timing so the engine dies without warning, then may restart once cooled. It affects both dCi diesel and petrol variants, and dirty sensor tips or corroded connector pins are a frequent contributing cause. Diagnosis is straightforward and replacement is inexpensive relative to the disruption it causes.
What you would notice
- Engine cuts out or stalls while driving, often when warm
- Intermittent hard starting or failure to start
- Engine restarts after cooling down
- Erratic or fluctuating tachometer
How to check it
Where to look. Crankshaft position sensor at the bellhousing or lower front of the engine block near the flywheel
During an extended test drive, especially once the engine is fully warm, note any stumble, stall, or cut-out, and check whether the tacho drops erratically. Ask the seller directly about any intermittent stalling or no-start episodes, which owners across this generation report from around 100,000 km. Have a scan run for crank-sensor codes, and inspect the sensor connector for corrosion where accessible.
What it costs to put right
$150 to $450 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the car ever cut out, stalled, or refused to start intermittently?”
- “Has the crankshaft position sensor been replaced?”
- “Do the symptoms appear once the engine is fully warm?”
Now check the Renault Scenic you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- BreakerYard (breakeryard.com) - Renault Scenic common problems and solutions
- Independent Renault Forums (renaultforums.co.uk) - Scenic 2 crankshaft sensor threads
- JustAnswer (justanswer.com) - Renault Scenic 2 cutting out troubleshooting
Renault Scenic buyer questions
Is crankshaft position sensor stalling and no-start serious on a Renault Scenic?
We rate it major and common on the Renault Scenic. Scenic II models widely suffer intermittent cutting out, stalling when warm, and hard or no-start caused by a failing crankshaft position sensor. The sensor signal drops out and disrupts engine timing so the engine dies without warning, then may restart once cooled. It affects both dCi diesel and petrol variants, and dirty sensor tips or corroded connector pins are a frequent contributing cause. Diagnosis is straightforward and replacement is inexpensive relative to the disruption it causes.
How much does it cost to fix on a Renault Scenic?
$150 to $450 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Renault Scenic years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2003–2009 Renault Scenic. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
During an extended test drive, especially once the engine is fully warm, note any stumble, stall, or cut-out, and check whether the tacho drops erratically. Ask the seller directly about any intermittent stalling or no-start episodes, which owners across this generation report from around 100,000 km. Have a scan run for crank-sensor codes, and inspect the sensor connector for corrosion where accessible. Look here: Crankshaft position sensor at the bellhousing or lower front of the engine block near the flywheel