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Subaru2012–2024 Critical issues documented

Subaru BRZ: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Subaru BRZ (2012–2024) in New Zealand? We've documented 26 known faults for this model spanning engine, transmission, body & rust, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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  • Money owing
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  • Ownership history
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  • NZ owned and operated

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26

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$550–$1,800

Typical repair

9

Service milestones

Which Subaru BRZ are you looking at?

2 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

2.0L petrol (FA20)· 2.0 litre petrol2.4L petrol (FA24)· 2.4 litre petrol

Start your free check on this Subaru BRZ

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Subaru BRZEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the BRZ came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Subaru BRZ

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Subaru BRZ before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Listen for a deep knocking or ticking noise on cold start that changes with engine load.

    See why

    FA20D Cylinder Bore Scoring and Engine Seizure

    A proportion of FA20D engines suffering prolonged oil consumption develop scoring (deep scratches) on the aluminium cylinder bores caused by inadequate lubrication film between the piston skirts and cylinder walls. The root cause is the same under-sealing piston ring design, but once scoring begins the engine rapidly progresses toward seizure. This failure is often linked to engines that ran low on oil due to the consumption issue going undetected.

    What you would notice

    • Rapid oil consumption exceeding 1 litre per 500 km
    • Heavy blue-white smoke from the exhaust under all driving conditions, not just cold start
    • Rough idle and misfires caused by low compression in one or more cylinders
    • Deep knocking or rattling noise from the engine block under load
    • Failed compression test showing one or more cylinders significantly below spec (below 1,100 kPa)

    Typically $6,000–$15,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check for blue oil smoke under hard acceleration or on overrun.

    See why

    FA20 Piston Ring Land Cracking Under Sustained High-RPM Track Use

    The FA20's forged and cast aluminium pistons have relatively narrow ring land walls. Under sustained high-RPM operation (track days, time attack), thermal cycling and combustion pressure fatigue can crack the top ring land. This allows combustion gases to bypass the rings, causing rapid oil consumption, blue smoke, and eventual hydraulic lock or connecting rod failure if oil level drops undetected.

    What you would notice

    • Excessive engine oil consumption of more than 0.5 litres per 1,000 km, often discovered between services
    • Blue smoke from the exhaust under hard acceleration or when lifting off the throttle at high RPM
    • Low compression reading (below 1,200 kPa) or high leak-down percentage on affected cylinders

    Typically $9,000–$22,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Ask directly whether the car has been used on circuit, hillclimb, or autocross events.

    See why

    FA20D Rod Bearing Wear from Oil Surge During Track Use

    The stock FA20D oil pan has no internal baffle or surge protection, so sustained lateral G-forces during circuit driving push engine oil away from the pickup tube, causing momentary oil starvation at the rod bearings. This leads to accelerated bearing wear and in severe cases a spun or seized rod bearing resulting in catastrophic engine failure. The fault is well documented in the Australasian track community. Remediation requires an aftermarket oil pan baffle kit or accusump installation. Any BRZ with track, hillclimb, or autocross history that cannot demonstrate corrective work should be treated as high risk for this failure.

    What you would notice

    • Low or fluctuating oil pressure warning light during hard cornering on circuit
    • Transient oil pressure fault codes logged from track sessions
    • Knocking or rumbling noise from lower engine under load in advanced failure
    • Rod knock audible at idle or during acceleration in severe cases

    Typically $1,500–$18,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    During the test drive, perform multiple deliberate 1-2 and 3-2 downshifts at moderate to high throttle.

    See why

    6-Speed Manual Transmission 2nd Gear Synchro Wear

    The TY75 6-speed manual gearbox used in the BRZ has a documented weakness in the 2nd gear synchroniser ring, which wears prematurely under aggressive or frequent gear changes. The synchro's carbon-fibre cone material degrades faster than the other forward gears in real-world sport driving, the use case for which the car is marketed. The result is increasingly difficult or grinding 2nd-gear engagement, particularly when downshifting at higher engine speeds.

    What you would notice

    • Grinding or crunching when selecting 2nd gear on quick upshifts from 1st
    • Resistance or a 'notchy' feel when engaging 2nd, especially on downshifts
    • Need to double-clutch or slow the shift significantly to avoid a grind into 2nd
    • Occasional difficulty engaging 1st gear from a standstill on warm transmission
    • Metallic debris visible if transmission fluid is drained (silver flakes)

    Typically $1,800–$4,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check oil level and colour, ask for a consumption history, watch for smoke on a hard rev, and confirm regular oil checks.

    See why

    FA20 oil consumption and low-oil risk

    The ZC6 BRZ's FA20 boxer is known for notable oil consumption, and running low is dangerous given the engine's known sensitivity, with some engines having suffered damage. Regular checking is essential and many owners report using oil between services.

    What you would notice

    • Oil consumption between changes
    • Low oil warning
    • Faint blue smoke on hard driving
    • Rising need to top up

    Typically $300–$4,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Scan ECU for stored misfire fault codes on any cylinder.

    See why

    FA24D Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon Buildup

    The ZD8 BRZ uses the FA24D 2.4-litre naturally aspirated flat-four engine with direct injection only. Because fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber rather than through the intake ports, no fuel wash occurs on the intake valve faces and carbon deposits accumulate progressively from oil vapour recirculation. This is a documented and predictable characteristic of all GDI-only engines. Carbon buildup restricts airflow past the valves, reduces volumetric efficiency, and causes rough idle, misfires under light load, and measurable power loss. Corrective cleaning requires intake manifold removal and walnut shell blasting or chemical decarbonisation, typically needed from 60,000 km onward.

    What you would notice

    • Rough or lumpy idle that gradually worsens with engine age and mileage
    • Hesitation or flat spot on light throttle application from low speed
    • Slight but progressive loss of peak power and throttle response
    • Misfires stored in ECU under light load or cold-start conditions
    • Increased fuel consumption as volumetric efficiency degrades

    Typically $700–$1,800 to put right.

Subaru BRZ service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Subaru BRZ. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Subaru BRZ Second Generation · 2021–2026 · 2.4L FA24 Boxer (174kW) - RWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 20,000 km

    First thorough check of the suspension geometry and wheel alignment.

  2. 50,000 km

    A full fluid flush including the gearbox and differential oils keeps the shift quality sharp.

  3. 100,000 km

    Inspect the spark plugs and look for any seepage around the cam carrier seals.

Subaru BRZ First Generation Facelift · 2017–2021 · 2.0L FA20 Boxer (152kW) - RWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Suspension bushings and struts can start showing their age here, which blunts the crisp handling.

  2. 150,000 km

    Depending on how the car has been driven, the clutch assembly may be near the end of its natural life.

  3. 200,000 km

    Cooling parts such as the radiator and thermostat are often replaced at this stage before they cause bother.

Subaru BRZ First Generation · 2012–2016 · 2.0L FA20 Boxer (147kW) - RWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The first big cooling system service and a drive belt inspection make sense at this distance.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check the suspension bushings and dampers so that sharp handling stays intact.

  3. 200,000 km

    A full round of fluid changes plus a careful check of the secondary ignition parts is worthwhile.

See all 26 documented issuesEverything researched for the Subaru BRZ, including 3 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Subaru BRZ has — 26Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling20

01FA20 Piston Ring Land Cracking Under Sustained High-RPM Track Use

Check for blue oil smoke under hard acceleration or on overrun.petrol2012–2021Engine
OccasionalEngine $9,000–$22,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA20's forged and cast aluminium pistons have relatively narrow ring land walls. Under sustained high-RPM operation (track days, time attack), thermal cycling and combustion pressure fatigue can crack the top ring land. This allows combustion gases to bypass the rings, causing rapid oil consumption, blue smoke, and eventual hydraulic lock or connecting rod failure if oil level drops undetected.

Symptoms to notice

  • Excessive engine oil consumption of more than 0.5 litres per 1,000 km, often discovered between services
  • Blue smoke from the exhaust under hard acceleration or when lifting off the throttle at high RPM
  • Low compression reading (below 1,200 kPa) or high leak-down percentage on affected cylinders

What to check

  1. Check for blue oil smoke under hard acceleration or on overrun.
  2. Inspect oil level before purchase — a track-used car burning oil between checks is a red flag.
  3. Pull spark plugs and inspect for oil fouling.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Perform a compression and leak-down test across all four cylinders.

Where to look: Pistons in both cylinder banks of the horizontally-opposed FA20 engine

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been used on a track or in any motorsport events?”
  • “Can you supply the last five service records showing oil level checks?”
  • “Would you be willing to allow a compression and leak-down test before purchase?”

02FA20D Rod Bearing Wear from Oil Surge During Track Use

Ask directly whether the car has been used on circuit, hillclimb, or autocross events.petrol2012–2021Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,500–$18,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The stock FA20D oil pan has no internal baffle or surge protection, so sustained lateral G-forces during circuit driving push engine oil away from the pickup tube, causing momentary oil starvation at the rod bearings. This leads to accelerated bearing wear and in severe cases a spun or seized rod bearing resulting in catastrophic engine failure. The fault is well documented in the Australasian track community. Remediation requires an aftermarket oil pan baffle kit or accusump installation. Any BRZ with track, hillclimb, or autocross history that cannot demonstrate corrective work should be treated as high risk for this failure.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low or fluctuating oil pressure warning light during hard cornering on circuit
  • Transient oil pressure fault codes logged from track sessions
  • Knocking or rumbling noise from lower engine under load in advanced failure
  • Rod knock audible at idle or during acceleration in severe cases

What to check

  1. Ask directly whether the car has been used on circuit, hillclimb, or autocross events.
  2. Check for documented oil pressure warning history in ECU fault codes.
  3. Inspect the underside of the oil pan for an aftermarket baffle kit or modified sump.
  4. Pull the oil filler cap and dipstick and inspect for metallic debris in the oil.
  5. Listen for lower-engine knock at idle and during hard acceleration.

Where to look: Engine lower end — connecting rod bearings and oil pan pickup area

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever been used on a race circuit, hillclimb, or autocross?”
  • “Has an oil pan baffle kit or accusump been fitted?”
  • “Has the car ever triggered a low oil pressure warning?”
  • “Has the engine been inspected or rebuilt following any track use?”

03FA20D Cylinder Bore Scoring and Engine Seizure

Listen for a deep knocking or ticking noise on cold start that changes with engine load.petrol2012–2020EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

046-Speed Manual Transmission 2nd Gear Synchro Wear

During the test drive, perform multiple deliberate 1-2 and 3-2 downshifts at moderate to high throttle.petrol2012–2023TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05FA20 oil consumption and low-oil risk

Check oil level and colour, ask for a consumption history, watch for smoke on a hard rev, and confirm regular oil checks.petrol2012–2021Engine
CommonEngine $300–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZC6 BRZ's FA20 boxer is known for notable oil consumption, and running low is dangerous given the engine's known sensitivity, with some engines having suffered damage. Regular checking is essential and many owners report using oil between services.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil consumption between changes
  • Low oil warning
  • Faint blue smoke on hard driving
  • Rising need to top up

What to check

Check oil level and colour, ask for a consumption history, watch for smoke on a hard rev, and confirm regular oil checks.

Where to look: FA20 boxer engine

Ask the seller

  • “How much oil does it use between changes?”
  • “Has it ever run low on oil?”
  • “Any engine work done?”

06Rear Differential Bearing Wear on High-Mileage and Track Examples

Drive at 80–110 km/h on a smooth road and listen for a drone or whine that changes pitch with speed but not engine RPM.petrol2012–2021Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,200–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Torsen-style limited-slip rear differential on the BRZ uses angular contact bearings that are sensitive to shock loading and high-speed cornering loads. On high-mileage cars (over 120,000 km) or vehicles with significant track use, the carrier and pinion bearings develop wear that manifests as a droning or whining noise proportional to road speed, and in advanced cases, clunking under load changes.

Symptoms to notice

  • Persistent droning or whining noise from the rear of the car that rises and falls with vehicle speed rather than engine speed
  • Clunking or lurching sensation during on-off throttle transitions at low speed, indicating excessive bearing play
  • Vibration felt through the floor pan at highway speed that worsens progressively over time

What to check

  1. Drive at 80–110 km/h on a smooth road and listen for a drone or whine that changes pitch with speed but not engine RPM.
  2. Check for clunk on throttle lift-off at low speed.
  3. Inspect differential housing for oil seepage.
  4. Check diff fluid colour and level — milky or metallic-flecked fluid confirms bearing contamination.

Where to look: Rear differential housing, centre of rear axle carrier

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car make any droning or whining noise at highway speeds?”
  • “Has the rear differential fluid ever been changed, and if so, at what mileage?”
  • “Has the vehicle been driven on track or used for drifting?”

07Rear LSD Clutch Pack Wear from Aggressive Use

Check differential fluid level, colour, and smell via drain plug.petrol2012–2021Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $850–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

ZC6 BRZ STI-spec and tS models were equipped with a Torsen Type-1 helical LSD as standard; performance-oriented owners routinely retrofit clutch-type plate differentials. On the ZC6 platform, clutch-type LSDs are subject to accelerated wear from repeated high-power corner exits, particularly when operated without correct GL-5 plus friction-modifier differential fluid or with extended drain intervals. The clutch pack friction material experiences thermal degradation at the interference between pack surfaces under locking events. Pack wear progression causes the differential to slip progressively under partial-throttle power application before failing entirely to an open-diff characteristic. Additionally, rear differential mounting bushes deflect under sustained hard cornering, altering driveshaft output angle and causing premature output shaft seal leakage that further degrades LSD fluid condition.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear differential clunking during low-speed parking-lot tight turns
  • Inside rear wheel spinning freely on corner exit under power despite LSD
  • Chattering or juddering sensation through seat during slow sharp directional changes
  • Differential oil appearing burnt or discoloured at service inspection

What to check

  1. Check differential fluid level, colour, and smell via drain plug.
  2. Test LSD engagement with a slow tight-radius turn and listen for the characteristic engagement clunk.
  3. Inspect differential output shaft seals for oil weeping.
  4. Request differential service records and confirm friction modifier was used in GL-5 fluid.

Where to look: Rear differential — LSD clutch pack friction material within differential case

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Is this the factory Torsen unit or an aftermarket clutch-type plate LSD?”
  • “Has differential oil been changed with friction modifier at correct intervals?”
  • “Has the clutch pack or differential housing been rebuilt or replaced?”
  • “Has the car been used in motorsport, drift, or hard autocross use?”

08FA24D Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon Buildup

Scan ECU for stored misfire fault codes on any cylinder.petrol2021 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09FA24 timing chain rattle on early ZD8 production

Cold-start the engine in the morning and listen immediately for chain rattle from the front.petrol2022 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $700–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Early production ZD8 BRZ (2022 model year) fitted with the new FA24 2.4-litre naturally aspirated engine exhibited cold-start timing chain rattle from the chain tensioner. This appears in early-build cars before Subaru updated the tensioner specification during production. The rattle is similar in character to the FB-series chain rattle on the GP/GJ Impreza — a brief noise on cold start that fades as oil pressure builds. Subaru acknowledged the issue and updated tensioners are fitted to later production runs. Affected cars can be retrofitted.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Chain rattle from engine front on cold start, typically within first 5–10 seconds
  • Noise more pronounced after long overnight park in cool temperatures
  • Rattle disappears once engine oil pressure stabilises

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine in the morning and listen immediately for chain rattle from the front.
  2. Check the VIN build date — early 2022 model year ZD8 cars are most at risk.
  3. Confirm with dealer records whether the updated tensioner has been retrofitted.

Where to look: FA24 timing chain and tensioner assembly at front of engine block

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain tensioner been updated under Subaru's technical correction?”
  • “Is there a cold-start rattle from the engine?”
  • “What is the build date of the car (not just the model year)?”

10FA20D Water Pump Failure and Coolant Loss

petrol2012–2020Cooling
OccasionalCooling $700–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA20D's water pump is driven by the timing chain and uses a plastic impeller that is susceptible to cavitation erosion and premature bearing failure. Failures typically occur between 80,000–150,000 km and can present with either a sudden bearing seizure accompanied by a belt-driven squeal, or a slow internal coolant leak that enters the engine oil without external signs. The latter mode — mixing coolant into the sump — causes rapid oil film breakdown and can lead to bearing damage if not caught quickly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant level dropping without any visible external leak under the car
  • Milky or coffee-coloured engine oil on the dipstick indicating coolant ingress
  • Temperature gauge rising above normal operating range, particularly in traffic
  • Squealing or grinding noise from the front of the engine that varies with engine speed
  • White froth under the oil filler cap after the engine has been used

What to check

  1. Check the coolant level in the reservoir and compare to the engine oil colour on the dipstick — a milky or frothy appearance on the dipstick indicates coolant contamination.
  2. With the engine running, listen for a squealing or rumbling from the water pump area (front of the engine).
  3. Inspect the coolant for oil sheen and the oil filler cap underside for white emulsion.

Where to look: FA20D front engine cover — water pump assembly driven off the timing chain

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the water pump ever been replaced or inspected, and at what mileage?”
  • “Has the coolant ever required topping up between scheduled services?”
  • “Has the oil ever appeared milky or the temperature gauge risen above the normal band?”

11FA24 Clutch Master Cylinder Internal Seal Failure

Inspect clutch reservoir fluid level and colour.petrol2021 onwardTransmission
OccasionalTransmission $380–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZD8 BRZ manual transmission uses the same hydraulic clutch master cylinder specification as the ZN8 GR86 — both second-generation cars share the FA24-platform clutch actuation design. The internal piston cup seal degrades through heat cycling in the firewall-mounted location and through moisture ingress into hygroscopic clutch fluid. As the seal loses integrity, hydraulic pressure bypasses the piston during pedal application rather than actuating the concentric slave cylinder at the gearbox. Symptoms progress from a low engagement point to a pedal that slowly sinks during sustained hold, eventually to complete inability to disengage the clutch disc. The fault is diagnosed via a pressure-hold test performed with the pedal depressed firmly for 30 seconds. Replacement of the master cylinder alone restores function without requiring gearbox removal.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clutch bite point gradually moving lower over multiple drives
  • Non-linear or spongy pedal feel not resolved by hydraulic system bleeding
  • Pedal slowly sinking to the floor when held depressed at a standstill
  • Occasional complete loss of clutch pedal resistance during normal driving

What to check

  1. Inspect clutch reservoir fluid level and colour.
  2. With the engine running, hold the pedal fully depressed for 30 seconds — if the engagement point continues to creep lower under steady force the master cylinder seal is bypassing.
  3. Check the underside of the master cylinder and firewall for weep marks or fluid residue.
  4. Confirm fluid replacement history.

Where to look: Firewall-mounted clutch master cylinder — internal piston bore cup seal and hydraulic reservoir

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch pedal ever slowly sunk or felt spongy on a drive?”
  • “Has the master cylinder been replaced, including under any Subaru warranty claim?”
  • “When was the clutch fluid last changed?”
  • “Has the engagement point shifted toward the floor since the car was new?”

12Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner and Idler Pulley Failure

With the engine idling, listen from the front of the engine bay for a squealing, chirping, or rumbling noise that correlates with engine speed.petrol2012–2023Engine
OccasionalEngine $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA20D and FA24D accessory drive belt systems use a spring-loaded tensioner and one or more idler pulleys whose sealed bearings are prone to failure from contamination and age. Once a bearing starts to seize, the resulting belt misalignment causes rapid belt wear and can lead to belt loss, cutting all accessory functions including power steering (where fitted), the alternator, and the water pump drive. The failure typically begins with audible noise months before the bearing seizes completely.

Symptoms to notice

  • High-pitched squealing or chirping from the front of the engine that varies with RPM
  • Rumbling or growling that disappears when the belt is briefly deflected off a pulley
  • Belt glazing, cracking, or edge fraying visible on inspection
  • Battery warning light illuminating if the belt slips off and the alternator stops charging
  • Temperature gauge rising if the belt loss also stops the water pump on engines with belt-driven coolant pumps

What to check

With the engine idling, listen from the front of the engine bay for a squealing, chirping, or rumbling noise that correlates with engine speed. Visually inspect the belt for glazing, cracking, or fraying on the rib surfaces. Check pulley surfaces for rust staining indicating bearing breakdown. If a workshop inspection is possible: Using a mechanic's stethoscope or long screwdriver, isolate the noise to the tensioner or idler pulley body.

Where to look: Front of the engine — accessory drive belt, spring tensioner, and idler pulley on the FA20D/FA24D

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the accessory drive belt, tensioner, or idler pulley been replaced, and at what mileage?”
  • “Is there any squealing, chirping, or rumbling noise from the front of the engine, particularly on cold start?”
  • “Has the battery ever gone flat or warning lights appeared that resolved once the engine warmed up?”

13Clutch Master Cylinder Internal Seal Failure

Press and hold the clutch pedal to the floor for 30 seconds and check whether the pedal slowly creeps toward the floor (indicating internal bypass).petrol2012–2021Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $380–$850 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On manual-transmission BRZ examples, the clutch master cylinder uses rubber cup seals that degrade over time due to hydraulic fluid moisture absorption and heat cycling. Seal failure allows internal bypass, resulting in a clutch pedal that slowly sinks to the floor under sustained pressure or requires pumping to restore normal engagement height. Fluid loss may be entirely internal with no visible external leak.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clutch pedal gradually sinks toward the floor when held in the depressed position, recovering after being released and re-pressed
  • Loss of clutch engagement height over time, with the biting point migrating lower as internal seals deteriorate
  • Difficulty selecting gears despite no visible external clutch fluid leak from the master cylinder body

What to check

  1. Press and hold the clutch pedal to the floor for 30 seconds and check whether the pedal slowly creeps toward the floor (indicating internal bypass).
  2. Inspect the reservoir fluid level and colour — dark brown fluid indicates long-overdue replacement.
  3. Inspect the master cylinder body and push-rod boot for seepage or staining.

Where to look: Clutch master cylinder mounted to the firewall on the driver's side, connected to the clutch pedal arm

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the clutch pedal feel firm and consistent, or does it slowly sink when held to the floor?”
  • “When was the clutch fluid last changed?”
  • “Has the clutch ever been rebuilt or the master cylinder replaced?”

14ZD8 FA24 early oil consumption reports

Check oil level and consumption history and ask about any engine-related recalls or service actions performed.petrol2021–2024Engine
OccasionalEngine $300–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The second-gen ZD8 BRZ's larger 2.4 FA24 boxer has drawn early oil-consumption reports from some owners, and early engines were subject to scrutiny, so oil use and level should be checked on used examples.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil consumption between changes
  • Low oil warning
  • Need to top up between services
  • Faint smoke under load

What to check

Check oil level and consumption history and ask about any engine-related recalls or service actions performed.

Where to look: FA24 boxer engine

Ask the seller

  • “Does it use oil between changes?”
  • “Any recall or engine work done?”
  • “Has oil level been monitored?”

15FA24D Valve Stem Seal Oil Leak

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and observe the exhaust for the first 30–60 seconds.petrol2022–2023Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA24D 2.4-litre engine fitted to ZD8-generation BRZ (2022+) has accumulated owner and workshop reports of valve stem seals leaking oil into the combustion chamber, particularly after the engine has been sitting overnight. The seals harden with heat cycling and lose their ability to prevent oil tracking down the valve guides, producing a characteristic puff of blue smoke on cold start that typically clears within a minute. Left unrepaired, oil fouling accelerates spark plug degradation and can contaminate the catalytic converter.

Symptoms to notice

  • Short burst of blue smoke from the exhaust immediately on cold start that disappears within one minute
  • Oil fouling on spark plugs causing rough cold idle or a misfire code (P0301–P0304) that clears when warm
  • Slight oil burning smell on cold start with no external leak visible
  • Gradual but slow oil consumption in the absence of external leaks
  • Catalytic converter efficiency codes appearing on longer-term neglected examples

What to check

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and observe the exhaust for the first 30–60 seconds. A brief puff of bluish smoke that then clears is the classic valve-seal signature. Remove spark plugs and look for oil fouling, particularly on cylinder 1 and 4 which run hotter in the flat-four layout. Check for oil accumulation in the intake manifold around the valve guides.

Where to look: FA24D cylinder head — intake and exhaust valve stem seals on all eight valves

Parts involved: Catalytic converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car produce any visible smoke on a fully cold start before the engine warms up?”
  • “Have the spark plugs been inspected recently, and was any oil fouling noted?”
  • “Has Subaru or any workshop mentioned valve stem seals during any inspection or service?”

16FA20 timing chain guide and tensioner wear

Listen for chain rattle at cold start, check oil condition and intervals, and scan for cam/crank correlation codes.petrol2012–2021Engine
OccasionalEngine $600–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA20 can develop timing chain rattle from worn guides and tensioner on higher-km examples, especially those tracked or run on long oil intervals. A rattle at start-up warrants inspection before timing is affected.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle on cold start-up
  • Chain noise at idle
  • CEL for cam timing
  • Metallic ticking

What to check

Listen for chain rattle at cold start, check oil condition and intervals, and scan for cam/crank correlation codes.

Where to look: Timing chain, guides and tensioner

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Any rattle on cold start?”
  • “Has it been tracked?”
  • “What oil interval has it had?”

17Manual Clutch Judder and Disc Glazing

Repeat on a slight uphill to load the drivetrain more.petrol2012–2020Transmission
CommonTransmission $900–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The factory single-mass flywheel and clutch assembly on the 6MT BRZ is prone to engagement judder — a vibration or shudder felt through the drivetrain as the clutch bites from rest. Subaru issued a technical service bulletin for excessive clutch chatter on early ZC6 models, attributing it to clutch disc and pressure plate characteristics at low-speed engagement. Owners who drive in stop-start traffic frequently report the problem worsens over time as the disc glazes, and the issue can return even after OEM clutch replacement if driving style is unchanged.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or vibration through the car body and seat when releasing the clutch from a standstill
  • Judder that is worse on a slight uphill or when the clutch is partially engaged for manoeuvring
  • Chattering sensation transmitted through the gearshift lever during clutch engagement
  • Gradual worsening of judder as the disc surface glazes with age
  • Symptom temporarily improves after a period of disuse or cooler ambient temperatures

What to check

Repeat on a slight uphill to load the drivetrain more. Inspect the underside of the car for oil contamination on the bellhousing, which can cause similar symptoms if the rear main seal leaks onto the clutch disc. If a workshop inspection is possible: Engage the clutch slowly from rest on flat ground and note any shudder through the seat or gear lever.

Where to look: Clutch assembly — pressure plate, friction disc, and single-mass flywheel

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch ever been replaced, and if so was it done under warranty or at the owner's expense?”
  • “Does the car judder or shudder when pulling away from rest, especially on a hill?”
  • “Has any dealer diagnosed clutch chatter and what was their recommended action?”

18FA20 Hydraulic Valve Lifter Drain-Back Noise on Cold Start

Start cold engine and listen for ticking from the cam cover area.petrol2012–2021Engine
CommonEngine $150–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA20's hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) allow engine oil to drain back into the sump after extended shut-down periods. On cold start, the lifters operate without full oil film for 20–60 seconds, producing a loud metallic ticking or rattling from the valve train. Repeated drain-back episodes can accelerate lifter and camshaft lobe wear over time.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud ticking or rattling from the top of the engine on cold start that dissipates within 30–60 seconds of idle
  • Noise is most pronounced after the vehicle has sat overnight or for several hours, particularly in cold ambient temperatures
  • Slight valve train roughness at idle that smooths out once oil pressure stabilises

What to check

  1. Start cold engine and listen for ticking from the cam cover area.
  2. Verify it clears within 60 seconds; persistent noise indicates worn lash adjusters or blocked oil galleries.
  3. Check oil level and condition; low or degraded oil worsens drain-back.

Where to look: Cylinder head valve train, accessible from top of engine

Ask the seller

  • “Has the engine been started cold recently and did you notice any ticking on startup?”
  • “What oil viscosity and brand has been used, and how regularly has it been changed?”
  • “Has the car been used on track where high oil temps may have degraded the oil faster?”

19Throttle Body Carbon Fouling Causing Erratic Idle

Check idle quality cold and hot.petrol2012–2021Engine
CommonEngine $180–$550 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FA20 uses port fuel injection supplemented by direct injection (D-4S system). Unlike pure port-injected engines, the intake valves and throttle body bore do not receive a fuel washing effect, leading to carbon build-up on the throttle butterfly and bore over time. Heavy deposits cause the throttle to stick marginally off its fully-closed position, producing an unstable or elevated idle, hesitation from a standstill, and occasional check-engine codes for idle control deviation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Unstable or hunting idle speed, fluctuating between 600 and 1,000 RPM particularly when the engine is fully warm
  • Hesitation or stumble when pulling away from a standstill, especially in cold weather
  • Check engine light with idle control fault codes P0506 or P0507 stored in the ECU

What to check

  1. Check idle quality cold and hot.
  2. Scan for stored or pending codes P0505, P0506, P0507 (idle control system).
  3. Verify throttle plate closes fully and returns crisply.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the intake duct and inspect the throttle butterfly and bore for carbon deposits — a clean bore should be near-bare metal; heavy fouling shows as a black ring restricting airflow.

Where to look: Throttle body on the intake manifold, accessible from the top of the engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car idle smoothly when fully warmed up, or does the idle speed hunt?”
  • “Has the throttle body ever been cleaned or inspected?”
  • “Are there any check engine lights present, and has the car been scanned for fault codes?”

20Clutch Pedal Pivot Bush Wear Causing Spongy Pedal Feel

Depress the clutch pedal slowly and feel for lateral movement or wobble in the pedal body.petrol2012–2021Transmission
CommonTransmission $80–$350 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZC6 BRZ manual transmission clutch pedal assembly uses plastic pivot bushes at the pedal fulcrum point. These bushes wear progressively with accumulated clutch actuations and with age, introducing lateral slop and flex into the pedal mechanism. The result is a spongy, imprecise pedal feel, increased freeplay, and an inconsistent bite point that progressively worsens. At high mileage the slop is sufficient to make precise heel-and-toe downshifting difficult and can cause unintended partial clutch slip. The bush itself is an inexpensive part but access requires removal of the lower dashboard trim panel to reach the pedal assembly pivot bolt.

Symptoms to notice

  • Spongy or vague clutch pedal feel with no firm, consistent engagement point
  • Increased clutch pedal freeplay that grows progressively worse over time
  • Lateral wobble or side-to-side slop detectable when the clutch pedal is depressed
  • Inconsistent clutch bite point that makes heel-and-toe downshifting unreliable
  • Clunk from the pedal assembly on clutch engagement or rapid release

What to check

  1. Depress the clutch pedal slowly and feel for lateral movement or wobble in the pedal body.
  2. Measure pedal freeplay against the factory specification of 10 to 15 mm. Grip the clutch pedal firmly and attempt to rock it side to side — any detectable play indicates worn pivot bushes.
  3. Compare pedal feel with a low-mileage reference car if possible.
  4. Inspect under the dash for the pivot bolt and visible bush condition without needing trim removal.

Where to look: Interior cabin — clutch pedal pivot bush at the pedal fulcrum, under the dashboard

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the clutch pedal feel firm and precise with a clearly defined bite point?”
  • “Has the clutch pedal pivot bush been inspected or replaced?”
  • “What is the total mileage on the vehicle?”
  • “Has the car been used predominantly in stop-start urban traffic, which increases clutch cycle count?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior5

01Boot Lid Water Ingress Through Rear Weatherstrip Seal Failure

With a torch, inspect the spare wheel well for standing water or rust staining.petrol2012–2021Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $280–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The BRZ boot lid weatherstrip seal degrades over time, losing its compression set. Combined with the relatively shallow rear tub design, degraded seals allow water to track into the spare wheel well and boot floor during rain or high-pressure washing. Water can pool in the spare tyre recess and wick into the rear quarter trim panels, promoting hidden corrosion of the boot floor sheet metal and damaging the audio amplifier and wiring looms routed in the boot area.

Symptoms to notice

  • Damp or musty smell from the boot area after rain or car washing, with water visible in the spare wheel well
  • Rust staining or surface corrosion on the boot floor sheet metal and spare tyre housing, visible after lifting the mat
  • Audio system faults or amplifier failure caused by water ingress to the wiring and components routed beneath the boot floor

What to check

  1. With a torch, inspect the spare wheel well for standing water or rust staining.
  2. Press and roll the weatherstrip rubber around the full perimeter of the boot opening — flattened or cracked sections indicate seal failure.
  3. Lift the boot mat and inspect for damp or rust-tinged foam.
  4. Check the audio amplifier (if fitted) under the boot floor carpet for corrosion or water damage to connectors.

Where to look: Boot lid rubber weatherstrip seal, boot floor drain plugs, and rear quarter panel drain channels

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the boot ever had any water ingress or a musty smell?”
  • “Can you lift the boot mat so I can inspect the spare wheel well and floor?”
  • “Has the boot lid weatherstrip ever been replaced?”

02Propshaft Intermediate Bearing Drone 30–50 km/h

Inspect the intermediate propshaft bearing rubber isolator for cracking or separation from the metal carrier.petrol2012–2021Suspension
CommonSuspension $700–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZC6 BRZ uses the identical two-piece propeller shaft and intermediate carrier bearing assembly as the Toyota 86 ZN6, sourced from the same Subaru-side supplier. The rubber isolation bonding compound between the bearing outer housing and the crossmember bracket hardens and loses damping compliance with age, temperature cycling, and ozone exposure — a common outcome in the Australasian climate. Hardened isolation allows shaft rotational vibration to transmit at frequencies that resonate with the ZC6 floor pan structure between approximately 30 and 50 km/h, producing a drumming or droning vibration felt through the seat and floor. The speed-band-specific nature of the symptom — absent at idle and above highway speed — causes frequent misdiagnosis as a tyre balance or road surface issue. Subaru Australia issued informal dealer awareness documentation on this failure; aftermarket single-piece propshaft replacements are a common permanent resolution.

Symptoms to notice

  • Speed-dependent drone through the floor at 30–50 km/h disappearing above 70 km/h
  • Vibration unchanged whether accelerating, coasting in gear, or coasting in neutral
  • Drone not eliminated by tyre rotation, balancing, or tyre replacement
  • Roughness or knock from beneath the cabin floor in advanced cases of bearing race failure

What to check

Inspect the intermediate propshaft bearing rubber isolator for cracking or separation from the metal carrier. On the test drive, hold a steady 40 km/h on smooth tarmac and confirm the vibration is mechanical, speed-dependent, and not influenced by throttle position. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car raised on stands, rotate the shaft slowly by hand through the bearing to feel for roughness.

Where to look: Propeller shaft — intermediate carrier bearing with rubber isolation bonding, crossmember bracket mount

Ask the seller

  • “Has there been any floor vibration or drone between 30 and 50 km/h that disappears at speed?”
  • “Has the propshaft intermediate bearing or entire propshaft been replaced?”
  • “Has the car been parked or stored outdoors in a hot climate for extended periods?”

03Rear Hub Wheel Bearing Premature Failure

Spin the hub slowly by hand and feel for roughness or cyclic rumble.petrol2012–2021Suspension
CommonSuspension $550–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZC6 BRZ uses the same pressed-in double-row angular contact rear wheel bearing as the Toyota 86 ZN6 platform. The BRZ's low centre of gravity and high lateral cornering capability generate sustained bearing loads that significantly exceed those of typical compact hatchbacks of equivalent weight. Enthusiast owners using semi-slick or track-compound tyres report bearing failure onset as early as 40,000km. The bearing outer race integrates the ABS reluctor ring, meaning a degraded bearing can falsely trigger ABS intervention before the driver notices any mechanical symptom. Failure to replace the bearing promptly once rumble begins risks damaging the ABS ring and knuckle bore, converting a straightforward bearing press into a more costly knuckle replacement. Wheel alignment should be confirmed after hub removal as toe angle can shift.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low-pitched droning from the rear correlated with road speed
  • Noise amplitude changing under lateral weight transfer during cornering
  • Vibration felt through the floor and seat at motorway speeds
  • Spurious ABS activation at low speeds on dry straight roads

What to check

Spin the hub slowly by hand and feel for roughness or cyclic rumble. On the test drive note whether the noise diminishes when cornering left versus right — this is diagnostic of which side is failing. Ask when bearings were last inspected or replaced. If a workshop inspection is possible: Jack and support each rear corner; rock the wheel in all planes to check for bearing play.

Where to look: Rear knuckle carrier — pressed-in double-row angular contact bearing with integrated ABS reluctor ring

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear wheel bearings been replaced, and at what kilometre mark?”
  • “Has the car been used for circuit days or fitted with performance or semi-slick tyres?”
  • “Has the ABS warning illuminated or ABS activated on dry roads at low speed?”

04Front Hub Bearing Premature Failure Under Negative Camber

Rock each wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock to detect axial play.petrol2012–2021SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Strut Top Mount Bearing Failure Causing Steering Click

The ZC6 BRZ upper strut mount incorporates a bearing plate that allows the strut to rotate relative to the body as the steering is turned.petrol2012–2021Suspension
CommonSuspension $280–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZC6 BRZ upper strut mount incorporates a bearing plate that allows the strut to rotate relative to the body as the steering is turned. These bearing plates degrade with age and mileage, and wear accelerates markedly on cars fitted with aftermarket coilovers that increase the load transferred through the mount. Failure produces a sharp metallic clicking or clunking sensation transmitted directly through the steering wheel when traversing sharp bumps, dips, or speed humps. The noise is characteristic and easily reproduced. If left unaddressed the worn mount also degrades steering self-centring and can contribute to unpredictable on-centre feel.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sharp metallic click or clunk from front suspension when traversing sharp bumps
  • Click transmitted through the steering wheel when turning over rough surfaces
  • Noise reproducible by rocking the steering wheel at a stationary vehicle
  • Steering self-centring feels vague, stiff, or notchy at low speed

What to check

  1. With the vehicle stationary and engine off, have an assistant rock the steering wheel left and right while you press your hand on each strut tower in turn to feel for clicking movement.
  2. Drive slowly over a sharp speed hump and listen for a metallic click from the strut top area.
  3. Inspect each strut top mount for cracking, corrosion, or a worn bearing plate.
  4. Check whether aftermarket coilovers are fitted as these significantly accelerate bearing wear.

Where to look: Front suspension — upper strut mount bearing plates at both strut towers

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been fitted with aftermarket coilovers or lowering springs?”
  • “Is there any clicking or clunking noise from the front suspension over sharp bumps?”
  • “Have the strut top mounts or strut bearing plates been replaced?”
  • “Has a wheel alignment been completed after any suspension modification?”
Fluid leaks1

01Rear Differential Output Shaft Oil Seal Leak

Check differential fluid level via the fill plug — low level confirms loss through seals.petrol2012–2021Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear differential has two output shaft seals (one per rear driveshaft stub axle) that are press-fit into the differential casing. These lip seals can weep gear oil over time, particularly after the differential oil has not been serviced. The leak is often slow and presents as oily residue on the inner face of the rear wheels or a burning smell from oil dripping onto the exhaust under-body heat shields.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oily residue or gear oil film on the inboard face of the rear brake discs or drums, sometimes causing brake pull or glazing
  • Burning gear oil smell from the underside of the car, particularly after highway driving where oil contacts exhaust heat shields
  • Progressively dropping rear differential fluid level confirmed when checking via the fill plug

What to check

  1. Check differential fluid level via the fill plug — low level confirms loss through seals.
  2. Look for oil accumulation on the rear subframe and under-body heat shields.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove rear wheels and inspect the inboard face of the brake disc and the differential casing flange at both driveshaft outputs for oily residue or gear oil staining.

Where to look: Rear differential casing at each driveshaft output, visible behind the rear road wheels

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear wheels been removed recently and was any oily residue noticed on the brake components?”
  • “Has the rear differential fluid ever been serviced?”
  • “Is there any smell of burning oil from the underside of the car after driving?”

Subaru BRZ faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

6-Speed Manual Transmission 2nd Gear Synchro WearMajor · TransmissionFA20D Cylinder Bore Scoring and Engine SeizureCritical · EngineFA24D Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon BuildupMajor · EngineFront Hub Bearing Premature Failure Under Negative CamberMajor · Suspension

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Subaru BRZ’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Subaru models

Subaru Legacy54 documented faultsSubaru Forester50 documented faultsSubaru Impreza44 documented faultsSubaru XV19 documented faultsSubaru Levorg13 documented faultsSubaru Tribeca12 documented faults

Subaru BRZ buyer questions

Is the Subaru BRZ reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 26 documented faults for the Subaru BRZ, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and body & rust. A Subaru BRZ with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Subaru BRZ?

We've catalogued 26 known faults for the Subaru BRZ, covering engine, transmission, and body & rust. All 26 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Subaru BRZ?

Most single repairs on the Subaru BRZ fall between $550–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 26 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Subaru BRZ?

Yes. A Subaru BRZ inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.