Toyota Hilux: 3RZ-FE / 2RZ-FE cast-iron exhaust manifold cracking between the centre runners
3RZ-FE / 2RZ-FE cast-iron exhaust manifold cracking between the centre runners is a common engine fault on the Toyota Hilux on the 1997–2005 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $700 to $1,800 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 59 documented faults on the Toyota Hilux.
- Vehicle
- Toyota Hilux
- Engine
- 3RZ-FE / 2RZ-FE
- Years
- 1997–2005
- Fuel
- petrol
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The cast-iron exhaust manifold on the 2.0 2RZ-FE and 2.7 3RZ-FE petrol engines cracks, almost always between the middle two runners over cylinders 2 and 3. Heat cycling plus the weight of the exhaust hanging off it does the damage, and sagging or broken engine mounts make it far worse because the manifold ends up carrying the pipe. It starts as a tick or puffing noise on cold start that fades as the metal expands and closes the gap, then becomes a permanent exhaust roar. Beyond the noise it upsets the oxygen sensor reading, so the engine runs richer than it should and fuel use climbs. It is common enough that Toyota's later 1998-on 'mini header' manifold is the standard replacement part, and the original design cracks again if one is refitted.
What you would notice
- Ticking or puffing from the engine bay on a cold start that quietens as it warms
- Exhaust noise that has got louder over time
- Smell of exhaust in the cabin at idle or with the windows down
- Check-engine light for a lean mixture or oxygen sensor fault
- Fuel use higher than it used to be
How to check it
Where to look. Cast-iron exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the engine, behind the heat shield where the exhaust pipe bolts on.
Stand beside the engine bay at a cold start with the bonnet up and listen for a rapid ticking or puffing in time with the engine - it is loudest in the first minute and fades as the manifold heats up and the crack closes. Have someone hold the revs at around 2,000 rpm and listen again from the passenger side, which is where the manifold sits. Shine a torch down the back of the engine at the manifold and look for a black sooty streak on the casting or on the heat shield, which is exhaust escaping and staining the metal. Push down firmly on the top of the engine while it idles and see whether it rocks more than a little, because tired mounts are what breaks these manifolds. Ask whether the manifold has been replaced already and whether the later part was used.
What it costs to put right
$700 to $1,800 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the exhaust manifold been replaced, and was it the later 'mini header' type?”
- “Does it tick or puff for the first minute when cold?”
- “Have the engine mounts ever been replaced?”
Now check the Toyota Hilux you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- TTORA forum thread: 'Identifying the infamous Cracked Exhaust Manifold?'
- TacomaWorld forum thread: '3rz exhaust manifold, Y-pipe leak [FIX]'
- CustomTacos forum thread: 'Cracked exhaust manifold'
- Pirate4x4 forum thread: '2.7 3RZ mini-header confusion' - post-1998 manifold used as the standard replacement
Toyota Hilux buyer questions
Is 3rz-fe / 2rz-fe cast-iron exhaust manifold cracking between the centre runners serious on a Toyota Hilux?
We rate it major and common on the Toyota Hilux. The cast-iron exhaust manifold on the 2.0 2RZ-FE and 2.7 3RZ-FE petrol engines cracks, almost always between the middle two runners over cylinders 2 and 3. Heat cycling plus the weight of the exhaust hanging off it does the damage, and sagging or broken engine mounts make it far worse because the manifold ends up carrying the pipe. It starts as a tick or puffing noise on cold start that fades as the metal expands and closes the gap, then becomes a permanent exhaust roar. Beyond the noise it upsets the oxygen sensor reading, so the engine runs richer than it should and fuel use climbs. It is common enough that Toyota's later 1998-on 'mini header' manifold is the standard replacement part, and the original design cracks again if one is refitted.
How much does it cost to fix on a Toyota Hilux?
$700 to $1,800 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Toyota Hilux years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 1997–2005 Toyota Hilux. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Stand beside the engine bay at a cold start with the bonnet up and listen for a rapid ticking or puffing in time with the engine - it is loudest in the first minute and fades as the manifold heats up and the crack closes. Have someone hold the revs at around 2,000 rpm and listen again from the passenger side, which is where the manifold sits. Shine a torch down the back of the engine at the manifold and look for a black sooty streak on the casting or on the heat shield, which is exhaust escaping and staining the metal. Push down firmly on the top of the engine while it idles and see whether it rocks more than a little, because tired mounts are what breaks these manifolds. Ask whether the manifold has been replaced already and whether the later part was used. Look here: Cast-iron exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the engine, behind the heat shield where the exhaust pipe bolts on.