Toyota Raum: common faults & what to check
Thinking about buying a used Toyota Raum (1997–2011) in New Zealand? We've documented 8 known faults for this model spanning engine, electrical, fluid leaks, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated major. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.
Check this exact Toyota Raum
- Odometer history
- Money owing
- Reported stolen
- Ownership history
8
Major
$400–$1,500
9
Which Toyota Raum are you looking at?
Petrol
Now narrow it to the engine
Start your free check on this Toyota Raum
Likely — same engine family
Toyota Raum
Narrowed by capacity and fuel. No engine code is recorded for this option, so a fault specific to one engine of that size cannot be confirmed from it.
Matched on capacity and fuel, not on an engine code.
- 5 documented faults name an engine this selection cannot confirm. They are listed separately below.
matched on 1.5L engine
What to look out for
Costly issue
Test the door many times, not once — this fault is often intermittent and a single successful cycle proves nothing.
Power sliding door failing to open or close
The power sliding door is the Raum's signature feature and it is also its signature fault — the same mechanism Toyota used across several models has a known record of failing. It stops partway, refuses to open at all, opens but will not latch, or works intermittently depending on the weather. Causes range from a worn motor and a stretched cable to the roller and rail wearing, or a door sensor that no longer reports the door as closed, which can then keep the interior light on and flatten the battery. For most buyers this is the deciding fault on a Raum rather than a mechanical one, because the sliding door is the reason to buy the car — and a failed one turns a family-friendly wagon into an awkward one. It is also entirely testable in the driveway, which makes it one of the easiest checks in this report.
What you would notice
Costly issue
Start the engine dead cold, the first start of the day, and listen at the front timing-cover end for a short rattle.
1NZ-FE timing-chain tensioner and VVT-i actuator cold-start rattle at high km
The 1.5-litre 1NZ-FE petrol engine fitted to the second-generation Raum (and the closely related engines across the range) is chain-driven and genuinely durable, but the hydraulic timing-chain tensioner, chain guides and the VVT-i intake-cam actuator are the recognised wear points as the chain stretches. On a Raum that is now 15-20-plus years old this most often shows up as a brief one-to-two-second metallic rattle on the first cold start of the day, before oil pressure loads the tensioner, and it is usually the VVT-i actuator or a tired tensioner rather than the chain itself. The tensioner O-ring is a known weak point. There is no factory recall; this is normal high-mileage wear accelerated by neglected oil changes. A persistent cold-start rattle is a reason to budget for a tensioner and VVT-i actuator and to check chain stretch, since a badly stretched chain left alone risks jumping timing.
What you would notice
Common issue
Cold-start the engine after it has sat for at least eight hours and immediately observe the exhaust for blue smoke.
5E-FE valve stem seal hardening and oil burning
The original rubber valve stem seals fitted to the 5E-FE engine harden and lose their sealing ability with age and repeated heat cycling. Given that all EXZ10 Raum models are now over 20 years old, this is a near-universal age-related fault on high-mileage examples. Hardened seals allow engine oil to migrate down the valve stems and into the combustion chamber, where it burns and produces intermittent blue smoke. The fault is most evident on cold start, after the engine has sat overnight, when pooled oil burns off immediately on startup.
What you would notice
Common issue
With the engine at full operating temperature, observe idle in neutral for at least 60 seconds.
5E-FE IACV carbon buildup causing idle hunting and stalling
Carbon and varnish deposits accumulate on the idle air control valve (IACV) and throttle body bore of the 5E-FE engine, particularly on city-driven examples with frequent cold starts and short trip cycles. Restricted airflow through the IACV causes the idle control system to hunt — surging between 500 and 1,500 rpm — or to stall when the engine is placed in gear. This is a well-documented service item on the 5E-FE and worsens progressively beyond 60,000 km without periodic cleaning. Given the age of all EXZ10 Raum imports, this issue is almost universal unless it has been recently addressed.
What you would notice
Worth checking
On the test drive listen for a knock over bumps and feel for a notchy or clicking steering as the strut-mount bearing turns.
Worn front strut top mounts and tired struts causing knock over bumps
The Raum rides on conventional MacPherson-strut front suspension, and on a small car now 15-20-plus years old the front strut top mounts, mount bearings and the struts themselves are an expected age-and-mileage wear item rather than a design defect. The front strut/shock-absorber support is a routinely stocked replacement part for the NCZ20 through NZ and Japanese parts suppliers, which points to it being a common service item. Symptoms are a knock or clunk from the front over bumps or when turning, a notchy or graunchy feeling through the steering at low speed as the mount bearing wears, and a floaty or poorly-controlled ride from tired struts. None of this is dangerous in the short term but it affects ride, tyre wear and can contribute to a Warrant of Fitness advisory, so check the front end on a test drive and, ideally, on a hoist.
What you would notice
Toyota Raum service schedule
Second Generation · 2003–2011 · 1.5L (1NZ-FE) - Standard Base Model
Due by distance
- 100,000 km
Check the accessory drive belt for cracking or fraying.
- 150,000 km
Sensible time to look at the radiator's top plastic tank for browning, which points to the plastic tiring.
- 200,000 km
Have the suspension struts and mounts assessed to keep the ride comfortable, and check for timing chain slack if the car has been poorly maintained.
Second Generation · 2003–2011 · 1.5L (1NZ-FE) - 4WD Model
Due by distance
- 150,000 km
Refresh the cooling system, checking the radiator and hoses so it does not overheat, and change the rear differential fluid.
- 200,000 km
Check the drivetrain and suspension: the 4WD propeller shaft universal joints, rear diff mount bushings and shock absorbers all reach the end of their life about here.
- 250,000 km
Turn attention to the engine drive belts, and look at the alternator if the charging output is inconsistent.
First Generation (Facelift) · 2000–2003 · 1.5L (5E-FE) - Standard Base Model
Due by distance
- 150,000 km
Find out whether cooling system parts such as the radiator hoses have been renewed.
- 200,000 km
Check the alternator and starter motor brushes, and watch oil use closely as the valve stem seals age.
- 250,000 km
Make sure the suspension bushings and shocks have been checked, as they are well worn by this stage.
See all 8 documented issues
Electrical
01Power sliding door failing to open or close
02Power sliding rear door (left/passenger side) sticking or failing to open on NCZ20
The second-generation Raum (NCZ20, 2003-2011) uses a distinctive B-pillarless body with a power sliding door on the rear left (kerb/passenger) side, and that power door mechanism is the model's best-documented fault as the cars age. Owners report the door stopping partway as if caught when opening from closed, or refusing to open on power, traced to the small electric door-lock release motor in the latch assembly wearing out, along with the latch and striker binding rather than releasing cleanly. It is described as the same door mechanism Toyota used on models like the Alphard, so it is a known design weak point rather than a one-off. Suppliers usually only sell the complete motor or latch assembly, which is the expensive path; the door still works manually when the power system fails, so it is an inconvenience rather than a safety defect, but confirm it cycles fully on power both ways.
Symptoms to notice
What to check
Ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior
03Worn front strut top mounts and tired struts causing knock over bumps
The Raum rides on conventional MacPherson-strut front suspension, and on a small car now 15-20-plus years old the front strut top mounts, mount bearings and the struts themselves are an expected age-and-mileage wear item rather than a design defect. The front strut/shock-absorber support is a routinely stocked replacement part for the NCZ20 through NZ and Japanese parts suppliers, which points to it being a common service item. Symptoms are a knock or clunk from the front over bumps or when turning, a notchy or graunchy feeling through the steering at low speed as the mount bearing wears, and a floaty or poorly-controlled ride from tired struts. None of this is dangerous in the short term but it affects ride, tyre wear and can contribute to a Warrant of Fitness advisory, so check the front end on a test drive and, ideally, on a hoist.
Symptoms to notice
What to check
Ask the seller
Depends on which engine this Toyota Raum has — 5
Engine, transmission & cooling
011NZ-FE oil consumption on higher-kilometre cars
Can't confirm for this car021NZ-FE timing chain stretch and VVT actuator rattle
Can't confirm for this car031NZ-FE timing-chain tensioner and VVT-i actuator cold-start rattle at high km
Can't confirm for this car045E-FE IACV carbon buildup causing idle hunting and stalling
Can't confirm for this car
Can't confirm for this car
Carbon and varnish deposits accumulate on the idle air control valve (IACV) and throttle body bore of the 5E-FE engine, particularly on city-driven examples with frequent cold starts and short trip cycles. Restricted airflow through the IACV causes the idle control system to hunt — surging between 500 and 1,500 rpm — or to stall when the engine is placed in gear. This is a well-documented service item on the 5E-FE and worsens progressively beyond 60,000 km without periodic cleaning. Given the age of all EXZ10 Raum imports, this issue is almost universal unless it has been recently addressed.
Symptoms to notice
What to check
Ask the seller
Fluid leaks
015E-FE valve stem seal hardening and oil burning
Can't confirm for this car
Can't confirm for this car
The original rubber valve stem seals fitted to the 5E-FE engine harden and lose their sealing ability with age and repeated heat cycling. Given that all EXZ10 Raum models are now over 20 years old, this is a near-universal age-related fault on high-mileage examples. Hardened seals allow engine oil to migrate down the valve stems and into the combustion chamber, where it burns and produces intermittent blue smoke. The fault is most evident on cold start, after the engine has sat overnight, when pooled oil burns off immediately on startup.
Symptoms to notice
What to check
Ask the seller
Toyota Raum faults in detail
What these repairs cost on other cars
Some of the Toyota Raum’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.
Other Toyota models
Toyota Raum buyer questions
Is the Toyota Raum reliable?
Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 8 documented faults for the Toyota Raum, the recurring problem areas are engine, electrical, and fluid leaks. A Toyota Raum with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.
What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Raum?
We've catalogued 8 known faults for the Toyota Raum, covering engine, electrical, and fluid leaks. All 8 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.
How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Raum?
Most single repairs on the Toyota Raum fall between $400–$1,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 8 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.
Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Raum?
Yes. A Toyota Raum inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.