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Toyota2003–2017 Critical issues documented

Toyota Wish: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Toyota Wish (2003–2017) in New Zealand? We've documented 32 known faults for this model spanning engine, cooling, suspension, and transmission. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Wish

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

32

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$400–$1,400

Typical repair

18

Service milestones

Which Toyota Wish are you looking at?

4 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Toyota Wish

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Wish came with 5, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Wish

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Wish before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Check engine oil level at every visit; dipstick will show 1+ litre low between standard service intervals.

    See why

    1ZZ-FE Piston Ring Oil Consumption

    The 1ZZ-FE 1.8-litre engine fitted to ZE10 Wish models suffers from a design flaw in the piston oil control rings. The narrow, low-tension rings introduced for reduced internal friction are prone to carbon fouling and sticking in their grooves, preventing them from scraping oil from the cylinder walls. The engine consumes engine oil at rates exceeding 1 litre per 1,000 km without producing visible blue smoke at idle, making the problem easy to overlook until severe engine damage occurs. This defect was the subject of a US class action lawsuit settled by Toyota in 2012 covering multiple 1ZZ-FE applications.

    What you would notice

    • Engine oil level drops 1–2 litres between 5,000 km oil change intervals with no visible leak under the vehicle
    • Spark plugs show wet, dark carbon fouling on electrode despite recent replacement
    • Brief puff of blue-grey smoke on deceleration after sustained motorway running

    Typically $2,800–$5,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check coolant reservoir for oily film or bubbles with engine running.

    See why

    1AZ-FSE Head Gasket Failure & Coolant Loss

    The 1AZ-FSE D-4 engine suffers chronic head gasket failure driven by thermal cycling stress and the engine's tendency to run hot under sustained load. Coolant enters combustion chambers producing white exhaust smoke and progressive coolant loss with no visible external leak. Toyota issued a special warranty extension campaign in Japan for this known defect across the 1AZ and 2AZ engine families. Overheating episodes accelerate failure and can result in a warped cylinder head requiring full replacement.

    What you would notice

    • White smoke from exhaust especially on cold start and under load
    • Unexplained coolant loss with no visible external leak
    • Sweet smell from exhaust pipe
    • Overheating warning light illuminating
    • Milky or frothy deposits on oil filler cap
    • Bubbles visible in coolant reservoir when engine is running

    Typically $2,500–$5,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge at idle — below 28 kPa at operating temperature is a red flag.

    See why

    1AZ-FSE Oil Pump Drive Gear and Chain Tensioner Failure

    The 1AZ-FSE drives its oil pump via a short roller chain and a pressed-on drive sprocket on the crankshaft. The sprocket and chain tensioner are known to wear prematurely on higher-mileage units, producing a characteristic metallic rattling on cold start that typically diminishes as oil pressure builds but returns and worsens over time. In severe cases the tensioner loses control of chain slack entirely, causing the chain to jump or the pump to under-deliver oil; sustained low oil pressure from this mechanism has been documented as a precursor to spun main bearings and irreversible crankshaft damage, making early diagnosis critical.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic clattering from lower front of engine on cold start, lasting 5–30 seconds before partially subsiding
    • Oil pressure warning lamp flickering at idle when fully warm
    • Oil pressure gauge reading low at idle on instrumented vehicles
    • Knocking deepening to a rod knock in advanced cases indicating bearing starvation

    Typically $1,200–$3,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Watch for: Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps and during low-speed turning.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

    The front suspension lower control arm on the ZGE20 Wish uses a press-fit ball joint that carries both the vertical load of the wheel and lateral cornering forces. The polyurethane boot seal degrades in NZ road conditions, admitting water and grit that erodes the ball stud taper and socket bearing surface. Once the joint develops play, caster and camber geometry deteriorates, causing accelerated tyre wear on the inner edge; in an advanced state the stud can pull out of the socket catastrophically, resulting in sudden loss of wheel alignment control.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps and during low-speed turning
    • Accelerated and uneven tyre wear on the inner shoulder of the front tyres

    Typically $280–$650 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check coolant colour and concentration - should be Toyota pink Long Life Coolant at 50% concentration and within service life.

    See why

    Water Pump Plastic Impeller Erosion at High km

    The 3ZR-FAE uses a water pump with a plastic impeller that is susceptible to erosion and de-bonding from the shaft at high mileage, typically beyond 150,000 km. Electrochemical corrosion from degraded or non-OEM coolant accelerates erosion of the impeller vanes, progressively reducing coolant flow without any visible external leak. The engine may overheat under load or at highway speed while remaining near-normal temperature at idle. In advanced cases the impeller can spin free of the pump shaft entirely, causing rapid overheating. This is an explicitly documented weakness of the 3ZR-FAE and is a known cause of head gasket failure if not caught early. Mechanics widely report the 3ZR-FAE water pump as one of the most problematic components on this engine.

    What you would notice

    • Engine temperature gauge rising above normal during highway driving
    • Overheating under load but near-normal temperature at idle
    • No external coolant leak but coolant level dropping slowly
    • Heater output reduced despite engine reaching operating temperature
    • Coolant appears old, discoloured, or has low concentration

    Typically $400–$950 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check idle quality when cold and scan for P0300–P0304 misfire codes.

    See why

    1AZ-FSE D4 Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon Accumulation

    The 1AZ-FSE uses Toyota's D-4 direct injection system, which injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber rather than upstream of the intake valve. Without fuel spray washing the back of the intake valves, oil vapour recirculated through the PCV system bakes onto the valve stems and faces, forming hard carbon deposits that restrict airflow into individual cylinders. As deposits thicken beyond approximately 1–2 mm they cause erratic idle, cold-start misfires, and progressively worse part-throttle hesitation; left unaddressed the carbon can prevent valves seating fully, risking compression loss and catalytic converter damage from unburnt fuel.

    What you would notice

    • Rough, lumpy idle especially on cold starts that partially clears once warm
    • Intermittent misfire codes P0300–P0304 under light throttle or at idle
    • Noticeable flat spot or hesitation during acceleration from low speed
    • Reduced fuel economy as engine management compensates for cylinder imbalance

    Typically $750–$1,600 to put right.

Toyota Wish service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Toyota Wish. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Second Generation (Mk2) · 2009–2017 · 1.8L 2ZR-FAE

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the accessory drive belt and look at the cooling system hoses for brittleness.

  2. 150,000 km

    Good window to look at parts such as the shock absorbers and engine mounts, which usually reach their limit here.

  3. 200,000 km

    Worth getting ahead of the alternator and water pump, as both may reach the end of their design life in these vehicles.

Second Generation (Mk2) · 2009–2017 · 2.0L 3ZR-FAE

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Time for a thorough check of the water pump and the auxiliary drive belts.

  2. 150,000 km

    The suspension dampers often start losing their original damping about here.

  3. 200,000 km

    Cooling system hoses and engine mounts should be reviewed before they cause trouble.

Second Generation (Mk2) · 2009–2017 · 1.8L 2ZR-FAE

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the auxiliary drive belt and confirm the coolant flush has been done.

  2. 150,000 km

    Suspension parts, the sway bar links and control arm bushes in particular, start showing natural wear here.

  3. 200,000 km

    Give the ignition coils a thorough check, and service the CVT fluid if that has never been done.

First Generation (Mk1) · 2003–2009 · 1.8L 1ZZ-FE

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Make sure the main cooling system hoses and the radiator have been checked for brittleness.

  2. 200,000 km

    Check suspension parts such as the strut mounts and control arm bushings for play.

  3. 250,000 km

    Give the alternator and starter motor a thorough check, as parts of this age may be near the end of their life.

First Generation (Mk1) · 2003–2009 · 1.8L 1ZZ-FE

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Flush the cooling system, as the plastic radiator tanks on older Toyotas go brittle.

  2. 200,000 km

    Plan a check of the engine mounts; vibration at idle usually means the rubber has finally had enough.

  3. 250,000 km

    Check the alternator and starter motor brushes, which commonly need attention after years of New Zealand use.

First Generation (Mk1) · 2003–2009 · 2.0L 1AZ-FSE

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Check the suspension bushings and engine mounts for perishing.

  2. 200,000 km

    Fuel system parts and the alternator often want a professional diagnostic check at this stage.

  3. 250,000 km

    From here, keeping an eye on the cooling system hoses and the radiator becomes a priority.

See all 32 documented issuesEverything researched for the Toyota Wish, including 5 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Toyota Wish has — 32Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling17

011ZZ-FE Piston Ring Oil Consumption

Check engine oil level at every visit; dipstick will show 1+ litre low between standard service intervals.petrol2003–2009Engine
Very commonEngine $2,800–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1ZZ-FE 1.8-litre engine fitted to ZE10 Wish models suffers from a design flaw in the piston oil control rings. The narrow, low-tension rings introduced for reduced internal friction are prone to carbon fouling and sticking in their grooves, preventing them from scraping oil from the cylinder walls. The engine consumes engine oil at rates exceeding 1 litre per 1,000 km without producing visible blue smoke at idle, making the problem easy to overlook until severe engine damage occurs. This defect was the subject of a US class action lawsuit settled by Toyota in 2012 covering multiple 1ZZ-FE applications.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine oil level drops 1–2 litres between 5,000 km oil change intervals with no visible leak under the vehicle
  • Spark plugs show wet, dark carbon fouling on electrode despite recent replacement
  • Brief puff of blue-grey smoke on deceleration after sustained motorway running

What to check

  1. Check engine oil level at every visit; dipstick will show 1+ litre low between standard service intervals.
  2. Pull spark plugs and inspect for oil fouling on plug tip.
  3. Request oil consumption documentation from seller.
  4. Check for carbon tracking on the underside of the intake manifold plenum.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: A compression test alone may not reveal the fault — a leak-down test is more diagnostic.

Where to look: Engine internals — piston ring land grooves on all four pistons

021AZ-FSE Head Gasket Failure & Coolant Loss

Check coolant reservoir for oily film or bubbles with engine running.petrol2003–2009Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

031AZ-FSE Oil Pump Drive Gear and Chain Tensioner Failure

Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge at idle — below 28 kPa at operating temperature is a red flag.petrol2003–2009Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Water Pump Plastic Impeller Erosion at High km

Check coolant colour and concentration - should be Toyota pink Long Life Coolant at 50% concentration and within service life.petrol2009–2017Cooling
OccasionalCooling $400–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3ZR-FAE uses a water pump with a plastic impeller that is susceptible to erosion and de-bonding from the shaft at high mileage, typically beyond 150,000 km. Electrochemical corrosion from degraded or non-OEM coolant accelerates erosion of the impeller vanes, progressively reducing coolant flow without any visible external leak. The engine may overheat under load or at highway speed while remaining near-normal temperature at idle. In advanced cases the impeller can spin free of the pump shaft entirely, causing rapid overheating. This is an explicitly documented weakness of the 3ZR-FAE and is a known cause of head gasket failure if not caught early. Mechanics widely report the 3ZR-FAE water pump as one of the most problematic components on this engine.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine temperature gauge rising above normal during highway driving
  • Overheating under load but near-normal temperature at idle
  • No external coolant leak but coolant level dropping slowly
  • Heater output reduced despite engine reaching operating temperature
  • Coolant appears old, discoloured, or has low concentration

What to check

  1. Check coolant colour and concentration - should be Toyota pink Long Life Coolant at 50% concentration and within service life.
  2. Inspect the coolant for contamination, oil contamination, or sludge indicating mixed coolant types.
  3. Monitor temperature gauge during a sustained motorway drive above 100 km/h.
  4. Shake the coolant recovery tank gently and look for bubbling that indicates combustion gas intrusion.
  5. High-mileage examples above 150,000 km should have the water pump replaced proactively regardless of symptoms.

Where to look: Front of engine block, driven by the accessory serpentine belt

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the water pump ever been replaced, and at what mileage?”
  • “What coolant type and mix ratio is currently in the cooling system?”
  • “Has the engine ever overheated or triggered a temperature warning light?”
  • “When was the coolant last flushed and replaced with Toyota LLC?”

05K311F CVT Belt Judder Under Light Throttle

Conduct a test drive with light throttle application at 20-60 km/h and feel for any rhythmic shudder through the seat or steering column.petrol2003–2009Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

062ZR-FAE Excessive Oil Consumption

Check oil level and condition on the dipstick.petrol2009–2017Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07ZE10 U341E Torque Converter Lock-Up Shudder

Perform a road test at steady 70–90 km/h in Drive with light throttle and note any rhythmic vibration or judder through the seat and floor.petrol2003–2009Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,600–$3,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The U341E four-speed automatic transmission fitted to the ZE10 Wish 1.8 develops a characteristic shudder through the drivetrain at light throttle in the 60–100 km/h range when the torque converter clutch attempts to lock. The friction material on the lock-up clutch glazes over time, particularly when ATF service intervals are ignored. The shudder can be mistaken for engine misfire but disappears when the converter clutch is disengaged by a sharp throttle blip or by selecting third gear manually. Contaminated fluid accelerates lining degradation and can eventually cause total converter failure.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Vibration or shudder felt through the floor and steering wheel at 60–100 km/h under light steady throttle in top gear
  • Shudder disappears instantly when accelerating firmly or manually selecting a lower gear, confirming torque converter clutch engagement as the trigger

What to check

Perform a road test at steady 70–90 km/h in Drive with light throttle and note any rhythmic vibration or judder through the seat and floor. Drop into third gear — judder should cease immediately if the torque converter clutch is the cause. Inspect ATF colour and smell; burnt brown fluid indicates overdue service or clutch deterioration. Drain and check for metallic particles in the sump pan.

Where to look: Torque converter lock-up clutch pack inside bell housing

Parts involved: Torque converter.

08Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration.petrol2003–2009Transmission
CommonTransmission $400–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

4-speed U340E automatic transmission develops torque converter lock-up clutch shudder under light throttle at highway cruise.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic vibration at highway speed under light throttle
  • Shudder clears under firm acceleration

What to check

Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration. ATF condition — brown fluid indicates degraded fluid.

Where to look: Automatic transmission and torque converter

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission torque converter shudder been inspected or repaired?”

091AZ-FSE Water Pump Seal Failure

Check coolant level in reservoir and inspect for discolouration or oily film on cap underside.petrol2003–2009Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

102ZR-FAE Valvematic Actuator Motor Failure

Scan for P3400/P3401 codes.petrol2009–2017Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

111AZ-FSE VVTi Sludge Blockage Causing P0011

Scan the ECU for P0011 or P0012 camshaft timing fault codes before purchase.petrol2003–2009Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

121AZ-FSE D4 Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon Accumulation

Check idle quality when cold and scan for P0300–P0304 misfire codes.petrol2003–2009Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

132ZR-FAE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

Start cold engine and listen for metallic rattling from the front of the engine that clears within 5-10 seconds.petrol2009–2017Engine
CommonEngine $600–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the 2ZR-FAE relies on pressurised oil to maintain chain tension. When the tensioner's internal check valve wears or the plunger O-ring degrades, oil drains back from the tensioner bore during extended shutdown periods, leaving the chain slack for the first several seconds of each cold start until oil pressure rebuilds. This repeated momentary slack accelerates chain stretch and guide-rail wear, and if ignored can ultimately allow the chain to jump a tooth, causing significant valve-to-piston contact damage.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or chattering from the front of the engine on cold start, clearing within seconds as oil pressure builds
  • OBD codes P0016 or P0017 (camshaft/crankshaft correlation) in advanced cases of chain stretch

What to check

Start cold engine and listen for metallic rattling from the front of the engine that clears within 5-10 seconds; pull the timing cover inspection plug if accessible; check engine oil level and condition for signs of low oil pressure; inspect for stretched chain using factory timing marks after cover removal.

Where to look: Front of engine, timing chain cover, tensioner on the left (intake) side of the block

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any rattling noise from the engine on cold start that goes away after a few seconds?”
  • “Has the timing chain, tensioner, or guides ever been inspected or replaced?”

141AZ-FSE High-Pressure Fuel Injector O-Ring Leak

Look for a raw petrol smell from the engine bay with engine running.petrol2003–2009Engine
OccasionalEngine $400–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1AZ-FSE D4 direct injection fuel injector O-rings harden and shrink causing fuel to weep around the injector body into the cylinder head, causing a raw petrol smell from the engine bay and rough running.

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Raw petrol smell from engine bay when engine is running
  • Engine misfire or rough running from fuel distribution disruption

What to check

  1. Look for a raw petrol smell from the engine bay with engine running.
  2. A fuel leak detector or soapy water applied around the injector bodies will reveal leaking O-rings.
  3. Scan for cylinder misfire codes from lean conditions.

Where to look: High-pressure fuel injectors in cylinder head

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 1az-fse high-pressure fuel injector o-ring been inspected or repaired?”

15Valvematic VVT Actuator Failure (P0011/P1047)

Inspect engine oil condition - dark sludgy oil accelerates OCV filter blockage.petrol2009–2017Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

16Water Pump Seal Weep on High-Mileage 1ZZ-FE and 2ZR-FAE

petrol2003–2017Cooling
CommonCooling $450–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Both the 1ZZ-FE (ZE10) and 2ZR-FAE (ZE20) engines use a coolant-lubricated water pump whose shaft seal deteriorates from approximately 120,000–150,000 km. The mechanical face seal between the impeller shaft and the pump housing begins to weep coolant, which is deposited on the accessory belt and pulley, and onto the front of the engine block below the pump. If undetected the coolant loss leads to overheating, and the coolant contaminating the belt causes premature belt failure. On the timing chain 2ZR-FAE the water pump is externally mounted and accessible; on the 1ZZ-FE it is driven off the timing belt and the belt must be replaced simultaneously.

Symptoms to notice

  • Dried coolant residue or crystalline deposit visible on the front of the engine below the water pump housing, with no visible cracked hoses or loose clamps
  • Coolant level in the reservoir drops gradually between service intervals without any visible external leak under the vehicle while parked

What to check

With the engine cold, inspect the front of the engine below the water pump housing for dried coolant residue — a crystalline white or orange deposit indicates a weeping seal. Check the serpentine or accessory drive belt for coolant staining (dark, glossy appearance on the inner face). On vehicles over 120,000 km, run the engine to operating temperature and re-inspect for active weeping at the pump-to-block joint. Check the coolant reservoir level against previous service records for unexplained top-up history.

Where to look: Water pump shaft seal at front of engine block, below alternator on 1ZZ-FE; below intake manifold on 2ZR-FAE

Parts involved: Water pump.

17EGR Valve Carbon Sticking Causing Lean Misfire

Scan for P0171, P0401, or random misfire codes before clearing.petrol2009–2017Engine
OccasionalEngine $180–$850 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3ZR-FAE EGR valve accumulates carbon deposits on the valve seat and stem with mileage, causing it to stick in a partially open position. When stuck open, the EGR introduces excess exhaust gas into the intake charge at inappropriate times, diluting the air-fuel mixture and creating a lean condition. This triggers P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) and random misfire codes. Idle quality deteriorates and the engine stumbles at low speed. High-mileage grey imports that have operated on poor fuel or infrequent servicing are most affected. EGR cleaning can restore function in mild cases; replacement is required when the valve body is damaged or seized.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough idle and engine stumble at low RPM
  • P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) fault code
  • P0401 (EGR Flow Insufficient) or random misfire codes P030X
  • Poor throttle response and hesitation at light throttle
  • Fuel economy noticeably reduced

What to check

  1. Scan for P0171, P0401, or random misfire codes before clearing.
  2. Inspect the EGR passages in the intake manifold for carbon restriction.
  3. Check intake manifold vacuum and all vacuum lines for unmetered air entry.
  4. Review long-term fuel trim values, which will be significantly positive if EGR is stuck open.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove and inspect the EGR valve for heavy carbon deposits on the valve seat and pintle - the valve should move freely by hand with no sticking.

Where to look: EGR valve mounted on intake manifold, driver side of engine

Parts involved: EGR valve.

Ask the seller

  • “Has a check engine light appeared for lean or misfire codes?”
  • “Has the EGR valve been cleaned or replaced?”
  • “Has an intake manifold clean or induction service ever been performed?”
Electrical7

013ZR-FAE Valvematic Controller Failure

Listen for mechanical noise from the intake camshaft actuator housing on the left side of the engine.petrol2009–2017Electrical
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Electric Power Steering Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2003–2009Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $600–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

EPS system can develop a fault causing loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering assistance with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — any heavy or inconsistent feel indicates a fault.

Where to look: EPS column motor and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering failure been inspected or repaired?”

03Electric Power Steering Motor Brush Wear

Turn the steering lock-to-lock slowly with engine running and feel for any inconsistency in assist weight.petrol2009–2017Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $650–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The AE20 Wish uses a column-mounted electric power steering (EPS) unit with a brushed DC motor driving the steering column via a worm gear. As the carbon brushes in the motor wear down, electrical resistance increases and the motor delivers inconsistent or reduced assist. The EPS ECU detects the current draw anomaly and illuminates the EPS warning light (orange steering wheel icon). In early stages the fault is intermittent and heat-dependent; in later stages assist disappears entirely, leaving heavy manual steering. The column EPS motor is not individually serviceable in most workshops and the full EPS column assembly must be replaced. Labour for column removal and alignment check makes this a moderately expensive repair. Units from Japanese wreck yards are a common lower-cost solution but vary in remaining brush life.

Symptoms to notice

  • EPS warning light on dash (orange steering wheel symbol)
  • Heavy or inconsistent steering assist, especially at low speeds
  • Intermittent loss of power steering in cold weather
  • Clicking or grinding sensation through steering wheel
  • EPS fault codes stored in steering ECU

What to check

  1. Turn the steering lock-to-lock slowly with engine running and feel for any inconsistency in assist weight.
  2. Listen for motor noise from steering column area.
  3. Ask if fault light has appeared even intermittently.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Check for EPS warning light or stored codes using an OBD-II scanner with Toyota enhanced protocol.

Where to look: Steering column, EPS motor assembly behind dashboard lower panel

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS warning light ever come on?”
  • “Has the power steering ever felt heavy or inconsistent?”
  • “Has the EPS unit or steering column been replaced?”

04Power Sliding Door Drive Cable Fraying and Failure

Watch for: Sliding door stops mid-travel or reverses unexpectedly and door warning light illuminates on the instrument cluster.2009–2017Electrical
CommonElectrical $400–$1,100 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZGE20 Wish uses an electric motor-driven cable loop to power the rear sliding door on both driver and passenger sides. The steel drive cables run through a plastic conduit channel along the door sill and roof rail and are subject to repeated bending stress through thousands of open/close cycles. Individual wire strands fray progressively, causing increased motor current draw, intermittent door stall mid-travel, or complete cable break leaving the door immovable under power. A snapped cable can also jam the manual-release mechanism, trapping occupants.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door stops mid-travel or reverses unexpectedly and door warning light illuminates on the instrument cluster
  • Loud grinding or snapping noise from the door sill or upper track during powered operation

What to check

Watch for: Sliding door stops mid-travel or reverses unexpectedly and door warning light illuminates on the instrument cluster. If a workshop inspection is possible: Operate door on power fully through its travel and listen for grinding or hesitation; inspect cable at the sill entry point for visible fraying or kinking; check for door controller fault codes using OBD scanner; pull door trim panel and inspect cable drum condition and cable tension.

Where to look: Rear sliding door cable conduit running along the lower sill and upper door track, motor mounted in the B-pillar or door panel depending on side

Ask the seller

  • “Do both power sliding doors open and close fully and smoothly without hesitation or error lights?”
  • “Has any work been done on the sliding door cables or motors?”

05ZE20 Electric Power Steering Column Rattle

Drive slowly over a rough surface or speed bump with both hands lightly on the wheel and listen for a rattle or knock transmitted through the rim.2009–2017Electrical
CommonElectrical $750–$1,900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZE20 Wish uses a column-mounted electric power steering (EPS) motor and reduction gear assembly. The worm gear coupling between the EPS motor and the steering column develops freeplay as the plastic gear teeth wear, producing a rattle or clunk felt and heard through the steering wheel when driving over minor road imperfections at low speed. In some cases the intermediate shaft universal joint within the column assembly also develops play, amplifying the symptom. The rattle is present regardless of steering wheel position but worsens on rough surfaces. Toyota Japan issued internal guidance on gear lash adjustment and replacement criteria.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle or hollow knocking sound from the steering column area when driving over rough surfaces, audible from inside the cabin and felt through the steering wheel rim
  • Slight free play in the steering wheel before the road wheels respond, accompanied by a single click when changing steering direction from lock to lock at parking speed

What to check

  1. Drive slowly over a rough surface or speed bump with both hands lightly on the wheel and listen for a rattle or knock transmitted through the rim.
  2. With the engine running and vehicle stationary, rock the steering wheel gently back and forth through a small angle — any free play or clunk before column movement indicates gear lash.
  3. Inspect the EPS motor housing for cracks in the plastic gear cover; inspect the intermediate shaft universal joint for visible play by rocking the column while a second person observes the u-joint from under the dash.

Where to look: EPS motor worm reduction gear housing on upper steering column, cabin side of firewall

Parts involved: Steering rack.

06Power Sliding Door Cable Failure

Cycle both sliding doors multiple times.2003–2009Electrical
CommonElectrical $350–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Wish power sliding door cables fray at guide pulleys causing slow or stuck door operation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door slowing or stopping partway through open or close operation
  • Unusual motor noise or grinding during door operation

What to check

Cycle both sliding doors multiple times. Listen for grinding or slowing. Doors that stop mid-travel confirm cable or motor wear.

Where to look: Power sliding door mechanisms both sides

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power sliding door cable failure been inspected or repaired?”

07Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Mounting Knocking

The ANE11/ZNE10 Wish uses a column-assist electric power steering system where the motor drives a worm gear on the steering column.petrol2003–2009Electrical
CommonElectrical $350–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ANE11/ZNE10 Wish uses a column-assist electric power steering system where the motor drives a worm gear on the steering column. The rack-and-pinion itself sits on two rubber mount bushes bolted to the front subframe; these bushes deteriorate and allow the rack housing to shift under steering load, producing a knocking or rattling noise from the front of the cabin. A separate but concurrent failure involves wear in the column EPS motor coupling, which transmits a clunk or rattle through the steering wheel rim during low-speed parking manoeuvres; this can be misdiagnosed as a suspension fault. Both failures result in imprecise steering feel and customer-perceived safety concerns that require workshop diagnosis to isolate correctly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking sound from the front cabin area during slow parking turns
  • Rattle from below the dashboard or front subframe when driving over rough surfaces
  • EPS warning lamp illuminating intermittently, particularly in cold or wet weather
  • Steering feel that becomes vague or requires more effort on one side of centre

What to check

With the vehicle stationary and the engine running, turn the wheel slowly lock-to-lock and listen for a knocking, clunking, or grating sound from the footwell or below the front of the car. Inspect the EPS motor wiring connector at the column for corrosion or chafing. Check for EPS warning lamp or codes C1511–C1515 in Toyota-specific scan data. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, grasp the rack housing and attempt to move it relative to the subframe; any movement indicates failed rack mount bushes.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted to front subframe below the engine bay; EPS motor and coupling on the steering column behind the dashboard

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the steering make any knocking or clunking noise when you park at low speed?”
  • “Has the EPS warning light ever come on?”
  • “Have the steering rack mounting bushes been replaced or inspected?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior8

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Watch for: Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps and during low-speed turning.2009–2017Suspension
CommonSuspension $280–$650 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front suspension lower control arm on the ZGE20 Wish uses a press-fit ball joint that carries both the vertical load of the wheel and lateral cornering forces. The polyurethane boot seal degrades in NZ road conditions, admitting water and grit that erodes the ball stud taper and socket bearing surface. Once the joint develops play, caster and camber geometry deteriorates, causing accelerated tyre wear on the inner edge; in an advanced state the stud can pull out of the socket catastrophically, resulting in sudden loss of wheel alignment control.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps and during low-speed turning
  • Accelerated and uneven tyre wear on the inner shoulder of the front tyres

What to check

Watch for: Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps and during low-speed turning. If a workshop inspection is possible: Lift vehicle and grip the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock positions, rock firmly and feel for play at the ball joint; inspect boot for splits or grease contamination on the knuckle; use a bar lever under the arm to confirm vertical play with dial indicator; check for inner tyre shoulder wear as indirect evidence.

Where to look: Front suspension, lower control arm outboard end, connecting the arm to the steering knuckle on each side

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arm ball joints been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front suspension over rough roads or speed bumps?”

02Rear Multi-Link Suspension Bush Collapse

Watch for: Rear of vehicle wanders or feels unsettled at motorway speeds with the steering wheel needing constant correction.2009–2017Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $500–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZGE20 Wish rear suspension uses a multi-link arrangement with multiple rubber-bonded bushes at each arm pivot point. The natural rubber compounds used in the OEM bushes undergo hydrolytic degradation and compression-set over time, particularly in the trailing arm and toe-control link mounts where cyclic torsional stress is highest. When the bushes collapse, rear toe and camber geometry shift outside specification, causing the vehicle to crab-walk, exhibit dart-and-weave behaviour on the motorway, and generate excessive rear tyre wear; the condition also shifts the brake balance rearward.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear of vehicle wanders or feels unsettled at motorway speeds with the steering wheel needing constant correction
  • Uneven rear tyre wear showing feathering or inner/outer shoulder degradation inconsistent with inflation pressure

What to check

Watch for: Rear of vehicle wanders or feels unsettled at motorway speeds with the steering wheel needing constant correction. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect each rear arm bush for cracking, separation, or visible collapse of the rubber element; push and pull each arm by hand with vehicle on a hoist and look for more than 2 mm of fore-aft play; obtain a four-wheel alignment printout and compare rear toe values to Toyota specification; check rear tyres for diagonal or shoulder wear patterns.

Where to look: Rear subframe and trailing arm pivot points, toe-control and camber link bush seats on both sides

Ask the seller

  • “Has a four-wheel alignment been performed recently, and were any rear geometry values out of specification?”
  • “Have any rear suspension bushes been replaced?”

03Rear Independent Suspension Trailing Arm Bush Wear

Check rear tyre wear pattern closely — feathering or inner-edge wear is a reliable indicator.petrol2003–2017Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Wish uses a multi-link rear independent suspension across both ZNE10 and ZGE20 generations. The trailing arm rubber bushes deteriorate with age and mileage, allowing the rear trailing arms to move outside their designed arc. This causes rear-end imprecision, rapid uneven tyre wear, and handling instability. Failure is progressive and often goes unnoticed until tyre wear becomes severe.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear end feels loose or imprecise in corners
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on rear axle (inner or outer edge)
  • Clunking from rear suspension when traversing bumps or dips
  • Vehicle pulls or wanders under braking

What to check

Check rear tyre wear pattern closely — feathering or inner-edge wear is a reliable indicator. Bounce-test each rear corner and listen for clunking. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, inspect trailing arm bush rubber for cracking, deformation, or separation from the steel sleeve.

Where to look: Rear trailing arm mounting bushes at the sub-frame and arm junction, visible under the rear of the vehicle

Ask the seller

  • “When were the rear suspension bushes last inspected or replaced?”
  • “Any clunking from the rear over bumps?”
  • “Is there uneven or unusual wear on the rear tyres?”

04Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration

Visually inspect the bush for radial cracking, rubber extrusion beyond the sleeve flange, or complete rubber separation.2003–2017Suspension
Very commonSuspension $350–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arms on both ZE10 and ZE20 Wish models use rubber-bonded bushes at both the forward pivot and the rear subframe attachment point. The rear bush experiences combined torsional and lateral loading and typically fails first, with the rubber compound cracking and separating from its steel inner sleeve. The failure is accelerated by Australasian road conditions and is often not discovered until WOF inspection reveals excessive movement. A collapsed bush allows the front wheel camber and toe to shift under braking and cornering loads, causing the car to wander and pull unpredictably.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Steering wanders or pulls to one side under braking, with the pull direction varying between braking events
  • Clunking from the front suspension over sharp bumps or when reversing on a steep camber, localised to the front lower arm area

What to check

Visually inspect the bush for radial cracking, rubber extrusion beyond the sleeve flange, or complete rubber separation. Check both sides; failure is often bilateral. Any visible caulk-like rubber squeeze-out around the sleeve indicates the bush has already collapsed. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist and suspension hanging free, grip the lower arm and apply firm fore-aft and lateral force — movement of more than 2 mm relative to the subframe indicates bush failure.

Where to look: Front lower control arm rear pivot bush, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

05Front Lower Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect boot for splitting.2003–2009Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front lower arm ball joints wear causing clunking and handling imprecision.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps
  • Imprecise handling when cornering

What to check

Inspect boot for splitting. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle raised, lever the lower arm and check for ball joint play.

Where to look: Front lower suspension control arms

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front lower arm ball joint been inspected or repaired?”

06Front Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Watch for: Vehicle pulls to one side under braking, particularly when the brakes are cold.2009–2017Brakes
CommonBrakes $180–$550 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front brake calipers on the ZGE20 Wish use sliding guide pins coated with grease and sealed by rubber dust boots to allow the caliper to float and maintain even pad-to-rotor contact on both sides. In NZ conditions, road salt, water ingress through deteriorated boots, and infrequent servicing cause the steel pins to corrode and seize within the aluminium caliper bracket bores. A seized guide pin prevents the outboard brake pad from fully releasing after brake application, causing the pad to drag continuously against the rotor and generating severe uneven pad wear, rotor scoring, and brake pull.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulls to one side under braking, particularly when the brakes are cold
  • Outboard brake pad worn to metal while inboard pad retains significant material, causing rotor scoring and grinding noise

What to check

Watch for: Vehicle pulls to one side under braking, particularly when the brakes are cold. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle safely lifted, remove front wheels and manually slide the caliper on its pins — each pin should move freely with light thumb pressure; inspect dust boots for cracking or splitting; compare remaining pad thickness on inboard versus outboard pads (unequal thickness indicates a seized pin); check rotor surface for uneven scoring or a pronounced lip on one face only.

Where to look: Front brake assembly, guide pin bores in the caliper sliding bracket on each wheel

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the brake caliper guide pins been cleaned, lubricated, or replaced as part of any recent brake service?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side when braking, especially from cold?”

07Front and Rear Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

petrol2003–2009Brakes
Very commonBrakes $150–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Both front and rear brake calipers on the ANE11/ZNE10 Wish use sliding guide pins to allow the caliper to float and apply even pad pressure across both disc faces. The guide pin boots are prone to splitting, admitting road salt moisture and brake dust that corrodes the pin bores; once the pins corrode in place the caliper can no longer centre itself, resulting in one pad dragging continuously against the rotor. This causes thermal overload on the affected corner, rapid and uneven pad consumption, rotor warping, and can ultimately cause brake fade or brake pull under heavy application; in NZ's coastal and wet road conditions this failure mode is considerably more common than in the vehicles' original Japanese domestic market environment.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking, often more pronounced when brakes are hot
  • One wheel or wheel area noticeably hotter than others after a drive
  • Brake pads wearing unevenly between inner and outer on the same caliper
  • Grinding or squealing from one corner even with adequate pad thickness remaining on the outer pad

What to check

  1. After a normal drive, carefully check disc rotor temperature at each corner by hand proximity — a noticeably hotter corner indicates a dragging caliper.
  2. Inspect boots for tears or perishing.
  3. Check pad thickness on both inner and outer pads of each caliper — unequal thickness confirms a seized pin.
  4. Inspect rotor surfaces for scoring grooves or blue heat-staining.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the caliper and extract guide pins; they should slide freely in and out of the bore by hand with only light resistance from the grease.

Where to look: Caliper guide pin bores on both front and rear calipers at each wheel corner

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the brake calipers last serviced — guide pins cleaned and re-greased?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side when braking?”
  • “Have the brake pads and rotors been wearing evenly on all four corners?”

08Rear Hatch Gas Strut Failure & Tailgate Drop

Open the tailgate to its full height and release — it should hold itself open without any support.2003–2009Body & Rust
Very commonBody & Rust $120–$350 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The AZE10 Wish rear tailgate is held open by two gas struts that lose internal pressure with age, causing the tailgate to slowly drop or fall without warning once released. At minimum this is a repeated inconvenience when loading the boot; at worst the heavy glass-laden tailgate can fall rapidly causing head or arm injury to a person standing in the opening. The condition is near-universal on examples that have not had struts replaced, typically by 12 to 15 years of age. Replacement struts from OEM or quality aftermarket suppliers are widely available in NZ.

Symptoms to notice

  • Tailgate will not hold itself open without manual support
  • Hatch drops slowly or falls suddenly when raised
  • Strut shafts feel loose or offer minimal resistance when pushed by hand
  • Oil seepage visible on strut shaft indicating internal seal failure

What to check

  1. Open the tailgate to its full height and release — it should hold itself open without any support.
  2. Check both struts for oil seepage around the shaft seal, which indicates pressure loss.
  3. Push each strut closed by hand and feel for gas resistance; collapsed struts offer almost none.
  4. Inspect the strut mounting brackets for corrosion or cracking at the weld points.

Where to look: Rear tailgate, one gas strut each side mounted between upper hatch frame and body

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the rear tailgate hold itself fully open without needing to be propped?”
  • “Have the rear hatch gas struts ever been replaced?”
  • “Is there any rust or damage around the tailgate hinge and strut mounting points?”

Toyota Wish faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Wish’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Wish buyer questions

Is the Toyota Wish reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 32 documented faults for the Toyota Wish, the recurring problem areas are engine, cooling, and suspension. A Toyota Wish with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Wish?

We've catalogued 32 known faults for the Toyota Wish, covering engine, cooling, and suspension. All 32 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Wish?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Wish fall between $400–$1,400 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 32 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Wish?

Yes. A Toyota Wish inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.