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MajorVery commonSuspension

Audi A6: Worn control arm bushes and ball joints (A6 C5 front multi-link)

Worn control arm bushes and ball joints (A6 C5 front multi-link) is a very common suspension fault on the Audi A6 on the 1997–2004 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $700 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 34 documented faults on the Audi A6.

Vehicle
Audi A6
Years
1997–2004
System
Suspension

This page covers the Audi A6 as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Audi A6 faults34 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

What goes wrong

The C5 A6 uses a four-link front suspension with two upper and two lower alloy control arms per side, eight in total, and their rubber bushes and ball joints wear out steadily, usually from around 100,000 km. Worn arms cause knocking over bumps, wandering steering, shimmy under braking and rapid inner-edge tyre wear. A torn ball joint boot lets water in and the joint can eventually separate. Most specialists replace the whole set per side or all eight arms plus tie rod ends and a wheel alignment rather than chase one arm at a time.

What you would notice

  • Clunk or knock from the front over speed bumps and potholes
  • Steering wanders or needs constant correction on the motorway
  • Shimmy or shake through the wheel under braking
  • Uneven wear on the inside edges of the front tyres
  • Creaking from the front when turning at low speed

How to check it

Where to look. Front suspension behind each front wheel: two upper arms near the top of the strut and two lower arms at the bottom of the hub

On the test drive, go slowly over speed bumps and rough patches with the windows down and listen for clunks or knocks from the front. On a straight road, hold the wheel lightly and see if the car wanders or pulls. Brake firmly from 80 km/h and feel for a shimmy or shake. With the car stationary and the engine running, turn the steering lock to lock and listen for creaks. Turn the front wheels to full lock and use a phone torch to look at the inside edges of the tyres for uneven wear, and at the rubber boots on the arm joints behind the wheel for splits. Ask for invoices for control arm replacement. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the car put on a hoist and check each of the eight arms for bush cracks and ball joint play with a pry bar, then check the wheel alignment.

Parts involved: Ball joint.

What it costs to put right

$700 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front control arms been replaced, and were all eight done or just some?”
  • “Were genuine or OEM-quality arms used?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment?”

Now check the Audi A6 you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in the sources below. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them.

  • Audizine FAQ: Reference - 1998-2004 C5 A6/allroad upper and lower control arm replacement
  • AudiWorld: A6/S6 C5 platform, Replace control arm bushing or just buy new control arms?
  • ECS Tuning News: Audi C5 A6 2.7T Complete Control Arm Kit Options
  • Classic Car Reviews: Audi A6 (C5) Saloon 1997-2004 review and buying guide

Audi A6 buyer questions

Is worn control arm bushes and ball joints (a6 c5 front multi-link) serious on a Audi A6?

We rate it major and very common on the Audi A6. The C5 A6 uses a four-link front suspension with two upper and two lower alloy control arms per side, eight in total, and their rubber bushes and ball joints wear out steadily, usually from around 100,000 km. Worn arms cause knocking over bumps, wandering steering, shimmy under braking and rapid inner-edge tyre wear. A torn ball joint boot lets water in and the joint can eventually separate. Most specialists replace the whole set per side or all eight arms plus tie rod ends and a wheel alignment rather than chase one arm at a time.

How much does it cost to fix on a Audi A6?

$700 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Audi A6 years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 1997–2004 Audi A6. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

On the test drive, go slowly over speed bumps and rough patches with the windows down and listen for clunks or knocks from the front. On a straight road, hold the wheel lightly and see if the car wanders or pulls. Brake firmly from 80 km/h and feel for a shimmy or shake. With the car stationary and the engine running, turn the steering lock to lock and listen for creaks. Turn the front wheels to full lock and use a phone torch to look at the inside edges of the tyres for uneven wear, and at the rubber boots on the arm joints behind the wheel for splits. Ask for invoices for control arm replacement. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the car put on a hoist and check each of the eight arms for bush cracks and ball joint play with a pry bar, then check the wheel alignment. Look here: Front suspension behind each front wheel: two upper arms near the top of the strut and two lower arms at the bottom of the hub