Ford Ranger: PJ / PK WLAT 2.5 and WEAT 3.0 Duratorq timing belt drives the injection pump
PJ / PK WLAT 2.5 and WEAT 3.0 Duratorq timing belt drives the injection pump is a common engine fault on the Ford Ranger on the 2006–2010 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $800 to $5,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 45 documented faults on the Ford Ranger.
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 2.5L / 3.0L
- Years
- 2006–2010
- Fuel
- diesel
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The 2.5 and 3.0 Duratorq diesels in the PJ and PK Ranger are rubber-belt engines, and the same belt drives the camshaft and the injection pump. Ford's interval is roughly 120,000 km, but the newest of these is now fifteen years old, so on most of these utes the belt is past its age limit whatever the odometer says - belt rubber perishes on a calendar. There is no rattle or warning before it goes; the engine simply stops, and because the valves stop while the pistons keep moving the usual bill is a camshaft, a set of valves and often a complete head. A low-kilometre PJ or PK that has spent years sitting is more at risk than a high-kilometre one that has been serviced, which is exactly backwards from what most buyers assume. Ask for the invoice, not the seller's word.
What you would notice
- No warning at all - the engine stops dead and will not restart
- Engine spins over fast and freely after the failure with no compression
- Squeal or dry rattle from the front of the engine as the tensioner bearing dries out
- Fine black rubber dust around the edge of the timing cover
How to check it
Where to look. Front of the engine behind the plastic timing cover, on the right-hand side of the engine bay as you face the vehicle
Ask the seller when the timing belt was last changed and ask to see the invoice - a workshop receipt showing a date and an odometer reading is the only evidence worth anything, and the water pump and tensioner should be on the same bill.
Look for a service sticker under the bonnet or on the door frame with a belt date, and photograph it.
Compare that reading against today's odometer to work out how far the belt has run.
Look at the black plastic timing cover on the front of the engine with your phone torch, checking for clean fresh fasteners that suggest recent work and for fine black rubber dust around its edges that suggests an old belt breaking down.
Start the engine and listen at the front for a squeal or a dry rattle.
If the seller cannot produce a belt receipt, price a belt, tensioner and water pump into your offer before you decide.
If a workshop inspection is possible: have a diesel specialist inspect the belt and tensioner behind the timing cover and confirm the injection pump timing.
What it costs to put right
$800 to $5,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “When was the timing belt last done, and do you have the invoice?”
- “Were the tensioner and water pump replaced at the same time?”
- “What was the odometer reading when the belt was changed?”
- “Has this ute ever sat unused for long periods?”
Now check the Ford Ranger you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- Quick Auto Parts (AU) - timing belt kit listed for Ford Ranger PK 3.0L diesel (WEAT, 04/2009-08/2011)
- CarsGuide Q&A 'Timing belt for Ford Courier' - 120,000 km interval on the same Mazda-derived 2.5 turbo-diesel belt drive
- Endurotec / Allied Auto Online (AU) timing belt kit listings covering WL and WLAT 2.5 Duratorq in Ford Courier and Ranger applications
Ford Ranger buyer questions
Is pj / pk wlat 2.5 and weat 3.0 duratorq timing belt drives the injection pump serious on a Ford Ranger?
We rate it critical and common on the Ford Ranger. The 2.5 and 3.0 Duratorq diesels in the PJ and PK Ranger are rubber-belt engines, and the same belt drives the camshaft and the injection pump. Ford's interval is roughly 120,000 km, but the newest of these is now fifteen years old, so on most of these utes the belt is past its age limit whatever the odometer says - belt rubber perishes on a calendar. There is no rattle or warning before it goes; the engine simply stops, and because the valves stop while the pistons keep moving the usual bill is a camshaft, a set of valves and often a complete head. A low-kilometre PJ or PK that has spent years sitting is more at risk than a high-kilometre one that has been serviced, which is exactly backwards from what most buyers assume. Ask for the invoice, not the seller's word.
How much does it cost to fix on a Ford Ranger?
$800 to $5,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Ford Ranger years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2006–2010 Ford Ranger. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Ask the seller when the timing belt was last changed and ask to see the invoice - a workshop receipt showing a date and an odometer reading is the only evidence worth anything, and the water pump and tensioner should be on the same bill. Look for a service sticker under the bonnet or on the door frame with a belt date, and photograph it. Compare that reading against today's odometer to work out how far the belt has run. Look at the black plastic timing cover on the front of the engine with your phone torch, checking for clean fresh fasteners that suggest recent work and for fine black rubber dust around its edges that suggests an old belt breaking down. Start the engine and listen at the front for a squeal or a dry rattle. If the seller cannot produce a belt receipt, price a belt, tensioner and water pump into your offer before you decide. If a workshop inspection is possible: have a diesel specialist inspect the belt and tensioner behind the timing cover and confirm the injection pump timing. Look here: Front of the engine behind the plastic timing cover, on the right-hand side of the engine bay as you face the vehicle