Holden Commodore: Rust under the boot seal, in the spare wheel well and around the bonded screens (VN-VS)
Rust under the boot seal, in the spare wheel well and around the bonded screens (VN-VS) is a very common body & rust fault on the Holden Commodore on the 1988–1997 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $600 to $4,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 51 documented faults on the Holden Commodore.
- Vehicle
- Holden Commodore
- Engine
- VN-VS
- Years
- 1988–1997
- System
- Body & Rust
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
VN through VS Commodores rust in a very consistent set of places: under the rubber seal around the boot opening, in the spare wheel well and under the boot carpet, along the lower rear corners of the front guards, the bottom of the boot lid below the number plate, the leading edge of the bonnet, and the expensive one - the cowl panel under the lower edge of the bonded windscreen and the surround of the rear screen. Water gets in past perished tail-light and quarter-window seals and sits in the boot floor, so the rot works from the inside out and looks perfect from above. Screen surround rust is a structural repair: the glass comes out, metal is cut and welded, and the screen is rebonded, and in New Zealand it is a warrant of fitness failure. VN paint was poor when new, so a repaint hiding fresh filler is common on survivors.
What you would notice
- Damp carpet or a musty smell in the boot
- Water sitting in the spare wheel well
- Bubbling paint along the bottom of the boot lid or the front guards
- Rust stains or blistering where the windscreen rubber meets the body
- Condensation or water inside the tail-light lenses
How to check it
Where to look. Boot floor and spare wheel well, under the boot opening seal, lower boot lid below the number plate, leading edge of the bonnet, lower rear corners of both front guards, and the bonded windscreen and rear screen surrounds.
Lift the boot carpet and the spare wheel and look straight into the well with your phone torch, because standing water, damp underfelt or flaky brown metal there is the single most useful thing you will find on this car.
Run your fingers all the way round the boot opening under the rubber seal, easing the seal back with your fingers, and feel for rough or bubbled metal.
Look along the bottom edge of the boot lid below the number plate, the leading edge of the bonnet, and the bottom rear corners of both front guards for paint that has lifted or blistered.
Then look very carefully where the windscreen glass meets the painted body at the bottom corners and along the base of the screen, and do the same at the rear screen, because rust there is structural and fails a warrant of fitness.
Press gently along those edges with your thumb and listen for a crackle.
Check inside both tail lights for water or green corroded connectors, and ask the seller whether the car has ever been repainted or had rust cut out.
If a workshop inspection is possible: have the car put on a hoist so the boot floor, rear rails and sill seams can be checked from underneath, and have any suspect screen surround probed once the trim is out of the way.
What it costs to put right
$600 to $4,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the car ever been repainted, and which panels?”
- “Has any rust been cut out and welded?”
- “Has the windscreen ever been replaced, and was there rust underneath it?”
- “Does the boot ever get wet after heavy rain?”
- “Were there any rust advisories on the last warrant of fitness?”
Now check the Holden Commodore you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- WhichCar 'Buyer's guide: VN-VP Commodore & Calais'
- Trade Unique Cars 'Holden VN-VP Commodore/Calais' review
- Holdcom Auto Parts article 'Fixing Rust Issues On VS Commodore Parts'
- Unofficial Holden Commodore Archive (vaber.au) Technical Tips - boot and quarter-window seal leaks, tail-light water ingress
Holden Commodore buyer questions
Is rust under the boot seal, in the spare wheel well and around the bonded screens (vn-vs) serious on a Holden Commodore?
We rate it major and very common on the Holden Commodore. VN through VS Commodores rust in a very consistent set of places: under the rubber seal around the boot opening, in the spare wheel well and under the boot carpet, along the lower rear corners of the front guards, the bottom of the boot lid below the number plate, the leading edge of the bonnet, and the expensive one - the cowl panel under the lower edge of the bonded windscreen and the surround of the rear screen. Water gets in past perished tail-light and quarter-window seals and sits in the boot floor, so the rot works from the inside out and looks perfect from above. Screen surround rust is a structural repair: the glass comes out, metal is cut and welded, and the screen is rebonded, and in New Zealand it is a warrant of fitness failure. VN paint was poor when new, so a repaint hiding fresh filler is common on survivors.
How much does it cost to fix on a Holden Commodore?
$600 to $4,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Holden Commodore years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 1988–1997 Holden Commodore. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Lift the boot carpet and the spare wheel and look straight into the well with your phone torch, because standing water, damp underfelt or flaky brown metal there is the single most useful thing you will find on this car. Run your fingers all the way round the boot opening under the rubber seal, easing the seal back with your fingers, and feel for rough or bubbled metal. Look along the bottom edge of the boot lid below the number plate, the leading edge of the bonnet, and the bottom rear corners of both front guards for paint that has lifted or blistered. Then look very carefully where the windscreen glass meets the painted body at the bottom corners and along the base of the screen, and do the same at the rear screen, because rust there is structural and fails a warrant of fitness. Press gently along those edges with your thumb and listen for a crackle. Check inside both tail lights for water or green corroded connectors, and ask the seller whether the car has ever been repainted or had rust cut out. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the car put on a hoist so the boot floor, rear rails and sill seams can be checked from underneath, and have any suspect screen surround probed once the trim is out of the way. Look here: Boot floor and spare wheel well, under the boot opening seal, lower boot lid below the number plate, leading edge of the bonnet, lower rear corners of both front guards, and the bonded windscreen and rear screen surrounds.