Honda CR-V: L15BE Turbo Inlet Hose Split at Boost Clamp
L15BE Turbo Inlet Hose Split at Boost Clamp is a common engine fault on the Honda CR-V on the 2017–2022 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $120 to $450 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 59 documented faults on the Honda CR-V.
- Vehicle
- Honda CR-V
- Engine
- 1.5L
- Years
- 2017–2022
- Fuel
- petrol
- Gearbox
- cvt
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The turbocharger inlet and charge-air hose on the L15BE engine is secured at the turbo compressor inlet with a worm-drive boost clamp over a silicone-rubber sleeve. Repeated heat cycling causes the rubber to harden and shrink, and the clamp can cut into the hose wall or loosen, producing a split at the clamp contact point. The failure results in a boost leak between the air filter and turbocharger inlet, causing loss of charge air, a significant drop in power under load, an illuminated check engine light (P0299 underboost), and a characteristic hissing or whooshing noise under acceleration. The fix is low-cost but if undiagnosed causes the ECU to command excessive fuelling and can worsen oil dilution.
What you would notice
- Hissing or whooshing sound from engine bay under acceleration above 2,000 rpm
- Noticeably reduced power and throttle response under load
- Check engine light with P0299 underboost code
- Increased fuel consumption from ECU overcompensating
- Engine stumble when boost should be building
How to check it
Where to look. Engine bay, turbocharger inlet hose and boost clamp on the left side of the L15BE engine
With the engine cold, locate the turbocharger inlet hose and follow it from the air filter housing to the turbo compressor inlet. Squeeze and flex the rubber hose at the worm-drive clamp location and inspect for cracking, splits, or hose wall deformation. Check clamp tightness with a screwdriver. A smoke test of the intake tract will reveal any boost leak decisively. Also inspect the charge-air cooler outlet hose at the throttle body for similar cracking.
What it costs to put right
$120 to $450 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the check engine light ever come on with a boost or turbo fault code?”
- “Has any hissing sound been noticed from the engine bay under hard acceleration?”
- “Have the turbo inlet hoses and clamps been inspected or replaced?”
Now check the Honda CR-V you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
Honda CR-V buyer questions
Is l15be turbo inlet hose split at boost clamp serious on a Honda CR-V?
We rate it major and common on the Honda CR-V. The turbocharger inlet and charge-air hose on the L15BE engine is secured at the turbo compressor inlet with a worm-drive boost clamp over a silicone-rubber sleeve. Repeated heat cycling causes the rubber to harden and shrink, and the clamp can cut into the hose wall or loosen, producing a split at the clamp contact point. The failure results in a boost leak between the air filter and turbocharger inlet, causing loss of charge air, a significant drop in power under load, an illuminated check engine light (P0299 underboost), and a characteristic hissing or whooshing noise under acceleration. The fix is low-cost but if undiagnosed causes the ECU to command excessive fuelling and can worsen oil dilution.
How much does it cost to fix on a Honda CR-V?
$120 to $450 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Honda CR-V years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2017–2022 Honda CR-V. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
With the engine cold, locate the turbocharger inlet hose and follow it from the air filter housing to the turbo compressor inlet. Squeeze and flex the rubber hose at the worm-drive clamp location and inspect for cracking, splits, or hose wall deformation. Check clamp tightness with a screwdriver. A smoke test of the intake tract will reveal any boost leak decisively. Also inspect the charge-air cooler outlet hose at the throttle body for similar cracking. Look here: Engine bay, turbocharger inlet hose and boost clamp on the left side of the L15BE engine