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Hyundai2002–2011 Critical issues documented

Hyundai Getz: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Hyundai Getz (2002–2011) in New Zealand? We've documented 15 known faults for this model spanning body & rust, engine, suspension, and transmission. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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  • Money owing
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  • NZ owned and operated

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15

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$280–$950

Typical repair

18

Service milestones

Which Hyundai Getz are you looking at?

2 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

1.4 petrol· 1.4 litre petrol1.6 petrol· 1.6 litre petrol

Start your free check on this Hyundai Getz

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Hyundai GetzEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Getz came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Hyundai Getz

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Hyundai Getz before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Check the inner sill lip for bubbling paint or scale rust.

    See why

    Floor Pan and Rear Sill Structural Rust

    The Getz has thin, minimally protected steel in the floor pan under the rear seat and along the inner and outer rear sills. In coastal and high-rainfall New Zealand environments, these areas accumulate road salt and moisture and corrode from the inside out. Perforation of the floor pan is a WOF failure and a structural safety issue. Rear sill corrosion compromises the jack points and the side-impact load path. Vehicles from coastal towns or those that have stood on grass or gravel are at highest risk.

    What you would notice

    • Bubbling or flaking paint along the lower rear sill below the door aperture
    • Soft or springy feel when pressing the floor steel under the rear seat
    • Visible perforation or daylight through the floor pan on hoist inspection
    • Jack point collapses or deforms when vehicle is raised
    • Musty smell in cabin with no obvious water leak source

    Typically $600–$5,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Verify service history shows belt AND tensioner replaced together.

    See why

    Timing Belt Tensioner Failure Causing Valve Damage

    The hydraulic or spring-type timing belt tensioner on G4EC 1.5 and G4ED 1.4 engines loses tension prematurely, allowing the belt to skip teeth on the camshaft sprocket. Even a one-tooth skip bends inlet valves on this interference engine. Failure typically occurs well before the 90,000 km replacement interval if the tensioner has never been renewed alongside the belt. This is the single most destructive documented failure mode for this engine family.

    What you would notice

    • Rattling or slapping noise from the timing cover area on cold start
    • Engine cranks but will not fire after a sudden stall
    • Loss of power or misfires before catastrophic failure
    • Check engine light with camshaft position sensor fault codes
    • Bent valves confirmed on compression test showing zero compression on affected cylinders

    Typically $350–$3,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Ask for the timing belt invoice or look for a service sticker under the bonnet with date and kms.

    See why

    Timing belt and tensioner - strict 90,000 km / 6 year interval

    Every Getz engine (1.3, 1.4, 1.6) runs a rubber timing belt with a 90,000 km or 6 year replacement interval, and owners report premature belt wear and tensioner failure showing up as rattle or chirp from the timing cover. Advice varies by engine on whether a snapped belt destroys valves, so treat them all as if it does and price the car accordingly if there's no belt history. Do the tensioner and water pump at the same time - it's mostly the same labour.

    What you would notice

    • No documented belt change in the last 6 years / 90,000 km
    • Chirping or rattling from the belt end of the engine
    • Engine cranks but won't start (belt failed)

    Typically $500–$950 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    With the engine off, fully depress and release the accelerator pedal several times and observe the throttle pulley at the throttle body.

    See why

    Throttle Cable Fraying and Binding

    The mechanical throttle cable on G4EA 1.3 and G4EC 1.5 variants frays at the cable end fitting where it exits the outer conduit near the throttle body pulley. The cable inner wire unravels one strand at a time, eventually snagging inside the conduit, causing the throttle to stick open or respond with a lag. A throttle that sticks open is a direct safety hazard. The failure is accelerated by the cable routing around a tight bend on right-hand-drive variants and by lack of lubrication.

    What you would notice

    • Throttle sticks open momentarily before snapping closed
    • Delayed throttle response followed by sudden surge
    • High idle that will not settle unless pedal is gently tapped
    • Visible frayed wire strands at the throttle body cable fitting
    • Accelerator pedal feels rough or catches during application

    Typically $120–$320 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Ask for a cold first start rather than arriving to a warm engine, since this fault shows itself worst from cold.

    See why

    Ignition coil failure — a misfire that arrives with no warning and can stop the car

    The ignition coils on these have a limited life and tend to fail outright rather than fading, so the first sign is often a car that suddenly runs on three cylinders or will not start at all. It is one of the most frequently reported Getz faults and it typically shows up somewhere past eighty thousand kilometres, more readily in cold weather. Driving on a misfire pushes unburnt fuel into the exhaust and will damage the catalytic converter, which turns a modest bill into a much larger one, so it is not something to run on for a few weeks.

    What you would notice

    • Engine shaking or juddering at idle
    • Flashing or steady check-engine light
    • Noticeable loss of power and a sharp jump in fuel use
    • Cranks but will not start, especially on a cold morning
    • Hesitation or stumble when you accelerate

    Typically $150–$800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    With the engine cold, inspect the radiator end tanks and seam joints for dried coolant residue or staining (pink, green, or orange deposits).

    See why

    Radiator Coolant Leak and Overheating

    The plastic-tank aluminium-core radiator on the Getz is prone to cracking at the crimped seam where the plastic end tanks join the aluminium core, typically from the top hose fitting side. Leak rate is initially slow but accelerates with heat cycling. Owners frequently top up coolant without identifying the source, causing the system to run low and the engine to overheat. Overheating in an interference engine risks head gasket failure. The thermostat housing on G4EA engines is also a documented weep point.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant level drops repeatedly without visible external puddle on driveway
    • Temperature gauge climbing above the normal midpoint during normal driving
    • Sweet smell from the engine bay after a run
    • Dried pink or orange residue on the radiator end tank seam
    • Low coolant warning light or temperature warning activating

    Typically $300–$1,200 to put right.

Hyundai Getz service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Hyundai Getz. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Hyundai Getz Facelift (TB) · 2005–2011 · 1.6L DOHC - GL

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The original timing belt should have been replaced by now, vital for these 1.6L engines.

  2. 150,000 km

    The radiator and cooling hoses might turn brittle and deserve a visual inspection.

  3. 200,000 km

    Original alternator or starter motor components may need a refresh by this stage.

Hyundai Getz Facelift (TB) · 2005–2011 · 1.4L DOHC - GLS

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Suspension bushings and struts may begin softening, affecting ride feel.

  2. 150,000 km

    Verify the service history for water pump and cooling system components.

  3. 200,000 km

    Ensure the alternator and starter motor have been inspected for ongoing reliability.

Hyundai Getz (TB) · 2002–2005 · 1.5L DOHC - GL

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Verify the timing belt replacement history.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check suspension bushings and shock absorber performance.

  3. 200,000 km

    Full inspection of cooling hoses and radiator efficiency.

Hyundai Getz (TB) · 2002–2005 · 1.3L SOHC - GL

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Second timing belt interval; confirm it's documented to avoid engine damage.

  2. 150,000 km

    Suspension components such as struts or bushings may need inspection to keep road-holding tight.

  3. 200,000 km

    Peripheral engine seals may start weeping slightly, worth watching alongside oil levels.

Hyundai Getz (TB) · 2002–2005 · 1.3L SOHC - GLS

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Original suspension components may start losing factory stiffness here.

  2. 150,000 km

    Verify the timing belt has been replaced, critical for engine longevity in the 1.3L SOHC unit.

  3. 200,000 km

    Auxiliary components such as the alternator or starter motor may reach end of design life at this significant milestone.

Hyundai Getz (TB) · 2002–2005 · 1.5L DOHC - GLS

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Second major timing belt interval, plus a point where suspension components often need a refresh.

  2. 150,000 km

    Inspect the alternator and water pump, which often reach end of design life around this mark.

  3. 200,000 km

    Full check of engine mounts and cooling system hoses to keep the vehicle reliable for its second life.

See all 15 documented issuesEverything researched for the Hyundai Getz, including 4 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Hyundai Getz has — 15Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling6

01Timing Belt Tensioner Failure Causing Valve Damage

Verify service history shows belt AND tensioner replaced together.petrol2002–2011EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Timing belt and tensioner - strict 90,000 km / 6 year interval

Ask for the timing belt invoice or look for a service sticker under the bonnet with date and kms.petrol2002–2011EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Throttle Cable Fraying and Binding

With the engine off, fully depress and release the accelerator pedal several times and observe the throttle pulley at the throttle body.petrol2002–2008Engine
OccasionalEngine $120–$320 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The mechanical throttle cable on G4EA 1.3 and G4EC 1.5 variants frays at the cable end fitting where it exits the outer conduit near the throttle body pulley. The cable inner wire unravels one strand at a time, eventually snagging inside the conduit, causing the throttle to stick open or respond with a lag. A throttle that sticks open is a direct safety hazard. The failure is accelerated by the cable routing around a tight bend on right-hand-drive variants and by lack of lubrication.

Symptoms to notice

  • Throttle sticks open momentarily before snapping closed
  • Delayed throttle response followed by sudden surge
  • High idle that will not settle unless pedal is gently tapped
  • Visible frayed wire strands at the throttle body cable fitting
  • Accelerator pedal feels rough or catches during application

What to check

  1. With the engine off, fully depress and release the accelerator pedal several times and observe the throttle pulley at the throttle body.
  2. Check for any hesitation in return-to-idle.
  3. Inspect the cable at both the pedal end and throttle body end for splayed or broken strands visible at the end fittings.
  4. Check that the cable returns crisply to closed position under its own spring with no pedal input.

Where to look: Throttle cable conduit, engine bay, throttle body pulley end

Ask the seller

  • “Has the throttle cable ever been inspected, lubricated, or replaced?”
  • “Have you ever noticed the engine revs hanging high or the throttle feeling sticky?”
  • “Does the car idle cleanly and settle to normal revs immediately after releasing the accelerator?”

04Clutch hydraulics and jerky ageing 4-speed auto

Manual: pump the clutch pedal several times and check it feels consistent, then shift 1-2-3 briskly listening for crunches.petrol2002–2011Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $400–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Manual Getz clutches are generally robust, but the hydraulic side is not: failing clutch master/slave cylinders give a spongy or sticking pedal and gear-selection trouble, and worn synchros make second gear baulky on high-km cars. The 4-speed automatic (especially 2007-2011 cars) develops jerky, delayed shifts after around 100,000 km if the fluid has never been serviced. Both are well documented on Australian owner forums.

Symptoms to notice

  • Spongy or slow-returning clutch pedal
  • Crunching into second gear
  • Auto: jerky or delayed gear changes
  • Auto: clunk engaging Drive

What to check

Manual: pump the clutch pedal several times and check it feels consistent, then shift 1-2-3 briskly listening for crunches. Auto: drive in traffic and feel for thumping or delayed shifts, and check the fluid colour if accessible. Ask when clutch or transmission fluid was last serviced.

Where to look: Clutch hydraulics on the firewall and gearbox; automatic transmission under the front of the car

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch or its master/slave cylinder ever been replaced?”
  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid ever been changed?”
  • “Any trouble getting it into gear when hot?”

05Radiator Coolant Leak and Overheating

With the engine cold, inspect the radiator end tanks and seam joints for dried coolant residue or staining (pink, green, or orange deposits).petrol2002–2011CoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Idle Air Control Valve Failure Causing Rough or High Idle

Normal warm idle should be 650–750 rpm and stable.petrol2002–2009Engine
CommonEngine $80–$380 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) on the G4EA 1.3 and G4EC 1.5 engines accumulates carbon deposits on the valve pintle and bore, causing erratic bypass airflow. This produces a hunting idle that oscillates between 500 and 1500 rpm, a high warm idle that will not drop below 1200 rpm, or an unstable cold-start condition. The ECU cannot compensate fully via fuel trim alone once the valve is heavily fouled. Cleaning restores function on mildly affected units but severely stuck pintles require replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine idle oscillates or hunts between 500 and 1500 rpm when warm
  • High idle of 1200 rpm or above that does not drop after the engine reaches operating temperature
  • Rough cold start that smooths once revved but returns to unstable idle
  • Stalling at junctions when coming off the throttle
  • Check engine light with idle speed control or MAF-related fault codes

What to check

Normal warm idle should be 650–750 rpm and stable. A hunting or oscillating idle between 500–1500 rpm confirms IACV or vacuum leak. Unplug the IACV connector and note whether idle changes — if idle stabilises rough, the valve is at fault. Check for cracked vacuum hoses on the intake manifold that produce similar symptoms. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the engine at full operating temperature, observe idle speed on a scan tool or tachometer.

Where to look: Throttle body assembly, mounted on or adjacent to the intake manifold

Ask the seller

  • “Has the idle air control valve ever been cleaned or replaced?”
  • “Does the engine idle smoothly and steadily when fully warmed up?”
  • “Has the check engine light ever been on, and what fault codes were stored?”
Electrical3

01Ignition coil failure — a misfire that arrives with no warning and can stop the car

Ask for a cold first start rather than arriving to a warm engine, since this fault shows itself worst from cold.petrol2002–2011ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Central locking actuators failing — doors that lock and unlock on their own

Door lock actuators are the single most commonly reported electrical fault on the Getz.2002–2011Electrical
Very commonElectrical $180–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Door lock actuators are the single most commonly reported electrical fault on the Getz. The small motor inside each door wears out, and the result ranges from one door that no longer responds to the remote to a car that locks and unlocks itself at random while you are driving. Beyond the nuisance, a door that will not lock is a security problem and a car that locks itself is a safety one, and it is a very common reason these fail to satisfy a buyer after purchase. Each door is a separate unit, so a car can have one failed and three good, and testing only the driver's door tells you very little.

Symptoms to notice

  • One door does not lock or unlock with the remote or the central switch
  • Doors locking or unlocking by themselves while driving
  • Buzzing or grinding from inside a door when you press the remote
  • Central locking works sometimes and not others
  • The remote works from the driver's door only

What to check

Stand outside with the key and press lock, then unlock, and walk round pulling every door handle including the tailgate to confirm each one actually did what it was told — do not just listen for a clunk, because one working door makes the same noise as four. Do it twice, since this fault is often intermittent. Listen at each door for buzzing or grinding rather than a clean click. Then sit in the car, use the interior central locking switch and check all four again, because the switch and the remote can behave differently. On the test drive, notice whether anything locks or unlocks by itself. Ask whether any door has ever been repaired.

Where to look: Lock actuator inside each door and the tailgate

Ask the seller

  • “Do all the doors lock and unlock reliably every time?”
  • “Has any door lock actuator been replaced?”
  • “Does it ever lock or unlock itself while you are driving?”

03Window regulator failure — the rear glass drops and will not come back up

The window regulators on these fail regularly, and the rear ones are the usual culprits.2002–2011Electrical
CommonElectrical $200–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The window regulators on these fail regularly, and the rear ones are the usual culprits. The mechanism that carries the glass up and down breaks or the cable jumps its track, and because it almost always lets go with the glass down rather than up, the owner is left with an open window on a car they cannot secure or keep dry. In a NZ winter that means a wet interior within a day, and damp carpet in a small car leads on to smells and to corrosion under the mats that costs far more than the regulator did. Rear windows get used less, so they are often untested at a viewing precisely because nobody thinks to try them.

Symptoms to notice

  • A window that will not go up, or comes up crooked
  • Grinding, clicking or a bang from inside the door when you use the switch
  • Glass that drops down into the door on its own
  • The motor whirrs but the glass does not move
  • A window noticeably slower than the others

What to check

  1. Test every window fully down and fully back up, one at a time, including both rear ones — this is the check people skip and it is where the fault lives.
  2. Watch each pane as it travels: it should move smoothly at an even speed and sit square in the frame, not judder, tilt or crawl.
  3. Listen for grinding or clicking from inside the door rather than the steady hum of a healthy motor.
  4. A window that is noticeably slower than the others is on its way out even though it still works, so treat that as a fault to negotiate rather than a pass.
  5. While you are at it, press your hand into the carpet in the back footwells to check for damp from a window that has been left open or has been leaking.

Where to look: Window regulator inside each door, behind the trim card

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Do all four windows go up and down properly?”
  • “Has any window regulator or motor been replaced?”
  • “Has any window ever dropped into the door?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior6

01Floor Pan and Rear Sill Structural Rust

Check the inner sill lip for bubbling paint or scale rust.petrol2002–2011Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Rear Torsion Beam Corrosion and Trailing Arm Rust

Probe the underside of the trailing arm tube with a pick at the weld bracket.petrol2002–2011Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $400–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear suspension on the Getz uses a torsion beam axle with pressed steel trailing arms. The hollow sections of the trailing arms and the beam itself trap road grit and moisture and corrode from the inside out. In wet or coastal New Zealand conditions the welds between the trailing arm and beam bracket are a known crack initiation site once significant rust has formed. Cracked or perforated trailing arm steel compromises rear axle geometry and is a WOF structural failure. Less severe corrosion causes brake line clamps and handbrake cable guides to seize and fracture.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear suspension clunk or knock under cornering load
  • Rear axle crabbing or uneven tyre wear indicating geometry change
  • Brake lines corroded through causing partial rear brake loss
  • Handbrake cable seized at the axle guide causing dragging rear brakes
  • Vehicle fails WOF on rear structural corrosion inspection

What to check

  1. Probe the underside of the trailing arm tube with a pick at the weld bracket.
  2. Check brake hard lines along the axle beam for corrosion-induced pitting.
  3. Examine the handbrake cable guides mounted to the beam for seized or fractured clips.
  4. Look for heavy scabbing or flaking rust at the torsion beam centre where it meets each arm.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, inspect the trailing arm outer faces and weld seams with a torch for scale rust, surface cracks, or perforation.

Where to look: Rear axle torsion beam, trailing arm inner cavities and weld joints

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any underbody or chassis rust treatment been applied to the rear axle area?”
  • “Has the vehicle been hoist-inspected recently and were any rear suspension concerns noted?”
  • “Has the handbrake operation been checked — does it hold firmly on a gradient?”

03Front Strut Top Mount Bearing Collapse

The upper strut bearing and top mount on the front MacPherson strut deteriorates rapidly in New Zealand conditions.petrol2002–2011Suspension
Very commonSuspension $280–$650 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The upper strut bearing and top mount on the front MacPherson strut deteriorates rapidly in New Zealand conditions. The bearing thrust washer seizes or collapses, causing the strut to bind during steering inputs. Failed mounts transmit impact forces directly to the body and produce a loud thud over bumps. This is one of the most frequently cited WOF failure items on high-kilometre Getz vehicles. Both sides typically require replacement simultaneously.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud single clunk or thud from front suspension over speed bumps or dips
  • Grinding or clicking felt through the steering wheel when turning at low speed
  • Steering feels notchy or has a catch point when traversing centre
  • Vibration through the wheel when driving over corrugated surfaces
  • Vehicle fails WOF on strut mount inspection

What to check

With the vehicle stationary and engine off, turn the steering wheel lock to lock and listen for a grinding or clunking sensation transmitted through the wheel. Push down sharply on each front corner and listen for a single loud thud rather than a controlled rebound. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect the rubber mount for cracking and the bearing for corrosion with the strut partially unloaded on a hoist.

Where to look: Top of front strut tower, engine bay corners

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front strut top mounts or bearings ever been replaced?”
  • “Does the car have a current WOF and when was it issued?”
  • “Have you noticed any clunking or grinding from the front suspension?”

04Air conditioning that stops getting cold — compressor and refrigerant loss with age

2002–2011Interior
Very commonInterior $200–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The air conditioning on these tends to lose its cooling somewhere between seventy and ninety thousand kilometres, and on the oldest cars it is often long gone by the time they are sold. The two usual causes are refrigerant leaking away and the compressor itself failing. It matters more than comfort on a NZ car, because the air conditioning is also what dries the windscreen quickly on a wet winter morning, so a car without it demists slowly and that is a visibility problem rather than an inconvenience. A compressor that has seized can also shred its drive belt, which takes other things with it.

Symptoms to notice

  • Air conditioning blows cool at best, never cold
  • No change in engine note when you switch the air conditioning on
  • Rattling or squealing from the front of the engine with the air conditioning running
  • Windscreen takes a long time to demist
  • Owner says it 'just needs a regas'

What to check

  1. Start the car and put the air conditioning on maximum cold with the fan high, then listen: you should hear the engine note change slightly as the compressor engages, and no change at all usually means it is not running.
  2. Hold your hand at the centre vent and wait a couple of minutes — properly working air conditioning gets genuinely cold, not merely cooler than outside.
  3. Listen for rattling or squealing from the front of the engine while it is on.
  4. Be careful with 'it just needs a regas': refrigerant does not get used up, so a system that is empty has a leak, and the regas alone will not last.
  5. Ask when it was last serviced and whether it has ever been regassed before.

Where to look: Air conditioning compressor on the front of the engine; condenser in front of the radiator

Ask the seller

  • “Does the air conditioning blow properly cold?”
  • “Has it ever been regassed, and how long did it last?”
  • “Has the compressor ever been replaced?”

05Power Steering Rack Seal Leak

Inspect both rack boots for ballooning, oil staining, or splits.petrol2002–2011Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic power steering rack on the Getz develops internal seal leaks at the rack piston seals and the pinion shaft seal. Fluid weeps past the seals and accumulates inside the rack boots, eventually contaminating the inner tie rod area and causing the boots to balloon or split. As fluid level drops, the pump whines under load and steering effort increases noticeably when parking. Replacement racks are inexpensive but the fault is frequently left unaddressed on high-mileage examples.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering pump whines or moans when turning at low speed or at full lock
  • Steering fluid reservoir consistently low between checks
  • Oily staining on or around the steering rack boots
  • Rack boots ballooned or visibly oil-filled
  • Increased steering effort when manoeuvring at low speed

What to check

  1. Inspect both rack boots for ballooning, oil staining, or splits.
  2. Check the power steering reservoir fluid level and note whether it is low.
  3. With the engine running at idle, turn the wheel lock to lock and listen for pump whine or moan.
  4. Look for fluid residue on the subframe directly below the rack body.
  5. Check inner tie rod play while turning the wheel slowly by feel for slop.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted behind the engine subframe, lower engine bay

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering fluid ever needed topping up, and how recently?”
  • “Have you noticed any whining noise when turning the steering wheel?”
  • “Have the steering rack boots ever been inspected or replaced?”

06Front anti-roll bar drop links — clonking over bumps and speed humps

Drive it slowly with the windows down over the worst surface you can find — a speed hump taken at walking pace, a rough side road, a driveway lip.2002–2011Suspension
Very commonSuspension $120–$450 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front drop links, which are the short rods joining the anti-roll bar to the suspension, are a known weak point on the Getz and one of the most common reasons these knock. The small ball joints at each end wear out and the link starts to rattle, so the car clonks over speed humps, rough seal and small bumps — most audible at low speed with the windows down. It is not dangerous on its own and the parts are cheap, but a knocking front end is the sort of noise that makes a first-time buyer imagine something far worse, and it is a routine WoF failure item, so it is worth identifying and pricing rather than being alarmed by.

Symptoms to notice

  • A clonk or knock from the front over speed bumps and rough roads
  • Rattling from the front at low speed on a poor surface
  • The noise is worse over one wheel than the other
  • The car feels slightly loose or wandery through a corner

What to check

Drive it slowly with the windows down over the worst surface you can find — a speed hump taken at walking pace, a rough side road, a driveway lip. Worn drop links make a distinct double clonk as the suspension moves, and low speed with the windows open is the only way to hear it properly, so a smooth main-road test drive will completely miss this. Try to notice whether the knock comes from one side. With the car parked, push down hard on each front corner and let it bounce, listening for a rattle. Ask when the front suspension was last looked at and whether it has failed a WoF on suspension.

Where to look: Anti-roll bar drop links behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any knocking from the front over bumps?”
  • “Have the front drop links or sway bar links been replaced?”
  • “Has it ever failed a WoF on suspension?”

Hyundai Getz faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

Floor Pan and Rear Sill Structural RustCritical · Body & RustIgnition coil failure — a misfire that arrives with no warning and can stop the carMajor · ElectricalRadiator Coolant Leak and OverheatingMajor · CoolingTiming belt and tensioner - strict 90,000 km / 6 year intervalCritical · EngineTiming Belt Tensioner Failure Causing Valve DamageCritical · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Hyundai Getz’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Hyundai models

Hyundai Tucson42 documented faultsHyundai ix3541 documented faultsHyundai Elantra30 documented faultsHyundai Kauai13 documented faultsHyundai Sonata13 documented faultsHyundai Ioniq 512 documented faults

Hyundai Getz buyer questions

Is the Hyundai Getz reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 15 documented faults for the Hyundai Getz, the recurring problem areas are body & rust, engine, and suspension. A Hyundai Getz with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Hyundai Getz?

We've catalogued 15 known faults for the Hyundai Getz, covering body & rust, engine, and suspension. All 15 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Hyundai Getz?

Most single repairs on the Hyundai Getz fall between $280–$950 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 15 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Hyundai Getz?

Yes. A Hyundai Getz inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.