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Subaru Legacy: EJ20 2.0 twin-turbo sequential changeover and exhaust control valve faults

EJ20 2.0 twin-turbo sequential changeover and exhaust control valve faults is a common engine fault on the Subaru Legacy on the 1998–2003 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $400 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 54 documented faults on the Subaru Legacy.

Vehicle
Subaru Legacy
Only on
Bi-Turbo / twin-turbo
Engine
EJ20
Years
1998–2003
Fuel
petrol
System
Engine

This page covers the Subaru Legacy as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Subaru Legacy faults54 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Turbocharger yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

The sequential system runs the small primary turbo at low revs and brings in the larger secondary turbo higher up, managed by a set of vacuum-actuated control valves including an exhaust control valve that should stay shut at idle. The actuators, vacuum hoses and solenoids perish with age, and when the changeover misbehaves the car surges, hesitates or simply will not make full boost. It is rarely catastrophic on its own but it is genuinely difficult to diagnose, few New Zealand workshops know the system well, and a car sold as "just needs a tune" often has a perished vacuum system behind it. Budget diagnostic time as well as parts.

What you would notice

  • Surging, hesitation or a sudden flat spot around 4,000 rpm where the second turbo takes over
  • Boost that feels inconsistent between drives
  • Engine warning light with boost-related codes
  • Audible hissing from the engine bay under load

How to check it

Where to look. Top and rear of the engine — vacuum solenoids, actuators and hoses around the twin turbochargers

The test drive is the real test here. On a clear straight road, accelerate firmly in a mid gear from about 2,000 rpm all the way up and pay attention to the middle of the rev range: the pull should be continuous, with at most a mild step. A pronounced flat spot, a surge, or boost that arrives and then falls away points at the changeover system. Repeat it two or three times, since the fault often varies. With the bonnet up and the engine idling, listen for hissing and look over the many small vacuum hoses across the top of the engine for hoses that are cracked, brittle, oil-soaked or obviously replaced with generic tubing. Ask whether the car has been modified, remapped or had a boost controller fitted, and whether any original vacuum plumbing was removed. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the vacuum system pressure-tested and boost logged, and the fault memory read.

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

What it costs to put right

$400 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been remapped, modified, or had a boost controller fitted?”
  • “Has any of the vacuum or turbo control plumbing been changed or removed?”
  • “Does it ever hesitate or surge in the mid range?”

Now check the Subaru Legacy you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

Subaru Legacy buyer questions

Is ej20 2.0 twin-turbo sequential changeover and exhaust control valve faults serious on a Subaru Legacy?

We rate it major and common on the Subaru Legacy. The sequential system runs the small primary turbo at low revs and brings in the larger secondary turbo higher up, managed by a set of vacuum-actuated control valves including an exhaust control valve that should stay shut at idle. The actuators, vacuum hoses and solenoids perish with age, and when the changeover misbehaves the car surges, hesitates or simply will not make full boost. It is rarely catastrophic on its own but it is genuinely difficult to diagnose, few New Zealand workshops know the system well, and a car sold as "just needs a tune" often has a perished vacuum system behind it. Budget diagnostic time as well as parts.

How much does it cost to fix on a Subaru Legacy?

$400 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Subaru Legacy years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 1998–2003 Subaru Legacy. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

The test drive is the real test here. On a clear straight road, accelerate firmly in a mid gear from about 2,000 rpm all the way up and pay attention to the middle of the rev range: the pull should be continuous, with at most a mild step. A pronounced flat spot, a surge, or boost that arrives and then falls away points at the changeover system. Repeat it two or three times, since the fault often varies. With the bonnet up and the engine idling, listen for hissing and look over the many small vacuum hoses across the top of the engine for hoses that are cracked, brittle, oil-soaked or obviously replaced with generic tubing. Ask whether the car has been modified, remapped or had a boost controller fitted, and whether any original vacuum plumbing was removed. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the vacuum system pressure-tested and boost logged, and the fault memory read. Look here: Top and rear of the engine — vacuum solenoids, actuators and hoses around the twin turbochargers