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CriticalCommonEngine

Subaru Legacy: EJ20 2.0 twin-turbo primary turbo seizure from oil coking (B4 / GT-B)

EJ20 2.0 twin-turbo primary turbo seizure from oil coking (B4 / GT-B) is a common engine fault on the Subaru Legacy on the 1998–2003 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $2,500 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 54 documented faults on the Subaru Legacy.

Vehicle
Subaru Legacy
Only on
Bi-Turbo / twin-turbo
Engine
EJ20
Years
1998–2003
Fuel
petrol
System
Engine

This page covers the Subaru Legacy as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Subaru Legacy faults54 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Turbocharger yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

The sequential twin-turbo EJ206/EJ208 fitted to the Legacy B4 and GT-B is a Japanese-market-only engine and is far more failure-prone than the naturally aspirated Legacy engines of the same era. The primary turbo is the one that works hardest, and its oil feed cokes up over time — particularly on cars shut down hot without idling down, and on long oil-change intervals. The carbon starves the bearing, the turbo seizes or lets go, and it frequently takes the engine with it via debris and oil starvation. Note that the well-known Subaru head gasket problem of this era is a naturally aspirated issue and is not characteristic of these twin-turbo cars, so do not let a clean head gasket story reassure you about the turbos.

What you would notice

  • Blue smoke from the exhaust, worst on start-up or when getting back on the throttle
  • Whistling, whining or grinding from the turbos that rises with revs
  • Noticeable loss of boost or a flat spot where the second turbo should hand over
  • Oil level dropping between services

How to check it

Where to look. Turbochargers on the exhaust side of the engine, low down at the rear of the bay; intercooler piping across the top of the engine

Start the car from cold and watch the exhaust in a mirror or with a helper for a puff of blue smoke. Pull the dipstick and check both the level and whether the oil looks fresh or like old treacle — this engine is unforgiving of neglected oil changes and the dipstick tells you a lot about the previous owner. With the engine off and cool, look at the intercooler piping for oil misting at the joints. On the test drive, accelerate firmly through the rev range in a low gear and feel for the handover between the two turbos: it should be a smooth continuous pull, not a flat spot or a sudden surge, and there should be no whistling or grinding that rises with revs. After the drive, let it idle for a minute before shutting down and note whether the seller does the same habitually. Ask about oil change intervals specifically. If a workshop inspection is possible: have boost pressure logged against spec and the turbos checked for shaft play.

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

What it costs to put right

$2,500 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “How often has the oil been changed, and with what oil?”
  • “Have either of the turbos been replaced or rebuilt?”
  • “Do you let it idle for a minute before switching off after a hard drive?”

Now check the Subaru Legacy you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

Subaru Legacy buyer questions

Is ej20 2.0 twin-turbo primary turbo seizure from oil coking (b4 / gt-b) serious on a Subaru Legacy?

We rate it critical and common on the Subaru Legacy. The sequential twin-turbo EJ206/EJ208 fitted to the Legacy B4 and GT-B is a Japanese-market-only engine and is far more failure-prone than the naturally aspirated Legacy engines of the same era. The primary turbo is the one that works hardest, and its oil feed cokes up over time — particularly on cars shut down hot without idling down, and on long oil-change intervals. The carbon starves the bearing, the turbo seizes or lets go, and it frequently takes the engine with it via debris and oil starvation. Note that the well-known Subaru head gasket problem of this era is a naturally aspirated issue and is not characteristic of these twin-turbo cars, so do not let a clean head gasket story reassure you about the turbos.

How much does it cost to fix on a Subaru Legacy?

$2,500 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Subaru Legacy years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 1998–2003 Subaru Legacy. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Start the car from cold and watch the exhaust in a mirror or with a helper for a puff of blue smoke. Pull the dipstick and check both the level and whether the oil looks fresh or like old treacle — this engine is unforgiving of neglected oil changes and the dipstick tells you a lot about the previous owner. With the engine off and cool, look at the intercooler piping for oil misting at the joints. On the test drive, accelerate firmly through the rev range in a low gear and feel for the handover between the two turbos: it should be a smooth continuous pull, not a flat spot or a sudden surge, and there should be no whistling or grinding that rises with revs. After the drive, let it idle for a minute before shutting down and note whether the seller does the same habitually. Ask about oil change intervals specifically. If a workshop inspection is possible: have boost pressure logged against spec and the turbos checked for shaft play. Look here: Turbochargers on the exhaust side of the engine, low down at the rear of the bay; intercooler piping across the top of the engine