Subaru STI: EJ20/EJ205 Water Pump Plastic Impeller Failure (GC/GF and GD/GG)
EJ20/EJ205 Water Pump Plastic Impeller Failure (GC/GF and GD/GG) is a common cooling fault on the Subaru STI on the 1994–2007 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $450 to $950 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 32 documented faults on the Subaru STI.
- Vehicle
- Subaru STI
- Engine
- EJ20 / EJ205
- Years
- 1994–2007
- Fuel
- petrol
- System
- Cooling
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
Subaru's factory water pump on EJ-series engines uses a plastic impeller that degrades and spins free on its shaft over time, dramatically reducing coolant flow without triggering any visible external leak. The failure is insidious — the pump still turns and appears normal externally, but coolant is barely circulating, leading to gradual or sudden overheating. An overheating event in an EJ Subaru with a failed impeller frequently precedes head gasket failure. The pattern is documented across GC/GF and GD/GG WRX and STI models spanning 1994 to 2007. Replacement with an aftermarket metal-impeller unit is the accepted long-term fix.
What you would notice
- Gradual or intermittent engine overheating with no visible coolant leak
- Temperature gauge creeping high under sustained load
- Coolant level dropping with no visible external leak
- Overheating events that cool once stationary (fan working but coolant not circulating)
How to check it
Where to look. Water pump on the front of the EJ engine block, driven by the cambelt
Monitor the coolant temperature gauge closely during a sustained test drive under load, including hills.
Check the coolant reservoir level and condition.
Ask specifically about any overheating history — a past overheat is a major red flag for downstream head gasket damage on these engines.
What it costs to put right
$450 to $950 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the water pump been replaced? If so, was it replaced with a metal-impeller unit?”
- “When was the cambelt last replaced — was the water pump changed at the same time?”
- “Has the car ever overheated?”
Now check the Subaru STI you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
Subaru STI buyer questions
Is ej20/ej205 water pump plastic impeller failure (gc/gf and gd/gg) serious on a Subaru STI?
We rate it critical and common on the Subaru STI. Subaru's factory water pump on EJ-series engines uses a plastic impeller that degrades and spins free on its shaft over time, dramatically reducing coolant flow without triggering any visible external leak. The failure is insidious — the pump still turns and appears normal externally, but coolant is barely circulating, leading to gradual or sudden overheating. An overheating event in an EJ Subaru with a failed impeller frequently precedes head gasket failure. The pattern is documented across GC/GF and GD/GG WRX and STI models spanning 1994 to 2007. Replacement with an aftermarket metal-impeller unit is the accepted long-term fix.
How much does it cost to fix on a Subaru STI?
$450 to $950 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Subaru STI years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 1994–2007 Subaru STI. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Monitor the coolant temperature gauge closely during a sustained test drive under load, including hills. Check the coolant reservoir level and condition. Ask specifically about any overheating history — a past overheat is a major red flag for downstream head gasket damage on these engines. Look here: Water pump on the front of the EJ engine block, driven by the cambelt