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Toyota2006–2012 Critical issues documented

Toyota Blade: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Toyota Blade (2006–2012) in New Zealand? We've documented 10 known faults for this model spanning engine, suspension, transmission, and electrical. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Blade

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
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  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

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10

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$600–$2,800

Typical repair

9

Service milestones

Which Toyota Blade are you looking at?

2 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Toyota Blade

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Blade came with 3, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Blade

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Blade before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Check oil level against service records and ask for top-up frequency.

    See why

    2AZ-FE Excessive Oil Consumption and Head Bolt Thread Pullout

    The 2AZ-FE 2.4-litre four-cylinder fitted to AZE154/AZE156 Blades suffers from two interrelated structural defects: piston ring flutter caused by excessively narrow ring-land tolerances that allow the rings to rotate and lose seating pressure, leading to oil being drawn into the combustion chamber and burned; and head bolt thread pullout from the aluminium block, where repeated thermal cycling fatigues the threads in the soft alloy and the bolts lose clamping torque, causing coolant ingress and head gasket failure. Toyota issued Technical Service Bulletin TC002-07 and later extended the powertrain warranty on this engine in several markets specifically for oil consumption, and Helicoil thread repair of the block is the accepted remediation once bolts pull. Oil consumption rates of one litre per 1,000 km or worse are commonly recorded in affected engines.

    What you would notice

    • Blue or grey smoke from exhaust, especially on deceleration or after extended idle
    • Oil level dropping significantly between scheduled services without visible external leaks
    • Fouled or oil-wet spark plugs on inspection
    • Coolant consumption or milky residue under oil filler cap indicating head gasket breach
    • Overheating events linked to coolant loss after head bolt pullout

    Typically $900–$9,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Visually inspect the dust boot for cracking, splitting, or grease leakage.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

    The front lower control arm ball joints on the Blade/Auris E150 platform deteriorate with age and mileage, a pattern consistent across this generation of Toyota compact vehicles. The rubber dust boot cracks and allows moisture and road contamination to reach the joint, accelerating internal wear of the ball stud and socket, eventually producing excessive play. A worn ball joint is a critical safety failure as it can allow the wheel to separate from the suspension under load.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps or during low-speed turning manoeuvres
    • Vague or imprecise steering feel with the wheel pulling to one side under braking
    • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on the front axle
    • Visible cracked or missing dust boot on the lower ball joint

    Typically $350–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Pull the dipstick cold before the test drive - a low or dirty reading on a car being sold is a bad sign.

    See why

    Excessive oil consumption from carboned piston rings (2.4 2AZ-FE)

    The 2AZ-FE 2.4 in the standard Blade is the same engine Toyota admitted burns oil in: the factory piston oil-control rings carbon up and stick, sometimes from as little as 100,000 km, and the engine starts drinking a litre of oil every 1,000-2,000 km. In the US this triggered a 2014 class action and an extended warranty (ZE7), but JDM Blades were never covered and any goodwill programs have long expired. Left unchecked it fouls spark plugs, kills the catalytic converter and can run the sump dry between services, seizing the engine. The proper fix is new pistons and rings, which at NZ labour rates often costs more than a good low-km used engine.

    What you would notice

    • Oil level drops noticeably between services with no visible leak
    • Blue-grey smoke from the exhaust on start-up or hard acceleration
    • Oil pressure warning light flickering on long motorway trips
    • Rough idle or misfire from oil-fouled spark plugs

    Typically $2,500–$5,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Start the engine from cold and listen immediately for a metallic rattle from the front of the engine lasting more than one to two seconds.

    See why

    2AZ-FE and 3GR-FSE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

    Both the 2AZ-FE and 3GR-FSE engines fitted to the Blade can exhibit a pronounced metallic rattle for several seconds on cold start, caused by oil draining back from the hydraulic timing chain tensioner during extended rest periods. The tensioner relies on residual oil pressure to maintain chain tension; when oil drains past worn check valves or seals, the tensioner collapses overnight and the slack chain rattles against the guide rail until oil pressure is restored. Prolonged operation in this condition accelerates chain, guide, and tensioner wear and can ultimately result in chain jump or snapped chain.

    What you would notice

    • Distinct metallic rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start, clearing within a few seconds as oil pressure builds
    • Noise worsening over time or persisting for longer periods as tensioner wear progresses
    • Check Engine light with variable valve timing fault codes in severe cases where chain has jumped a tooth

    Typically $500–$2,200 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect rubber bush outer faces for splitting, cracking, and separation from the metal sleeve.

    See why

    Rear Multi-Link Suspension Bush Collapse

    The Blade's independent rear multi-link suspension relies on multiple rubber-bonded bushes to locate the trailing arms, lateral links, and toe control links. On vehicles of this age the original rubber compound deteriorates and delaminates from the metal inserts, allowing the rear subframe links to move outside their designed geometry. Collapsed rear bushes cause rear-end instability, toe-angle deviation, and uneven rear tyre wear, and the condition can cause the rear to step out unpredictably under hard cornering. Full rear bush replacement using OEM or polyurethane replacements is the correct remediation.

    What you would notice

    • Rear tyre wear on the inner or outer edge inconsistent with the vehicle's alignment history
    • Rear-end wander or instability, particularly on highway lane changes or under hard cornering
    • Clunking or thudding from the rear suspension over broken surfaces or speed humps
    • Most recent wheel alignment showing rear toe or camber outside specification

    Typically $600–$1,800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Cold-start the engine and listen for chain rattle from the top-front of the engine.

    See why

    2GR-FE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Wear

    The 3.5L 2GR-FE V6 engine fitted to the Blade Master G uses a secondary timing chain system whose tensioner weakens with age and infrequent oil changes. This is a documented issue across Toyota and Lexus vehicles sharing the 2GR-FE platform including the Kluger and Camry V6. NZ mechanics report this on imported Blade 3.5 models, with cold-start chain rattle that intensifies as the chain stretches further if unaddressed.

    What you would notice

    • Rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start
    • Rattle that persists for more than a few seconds before oil pressure builds
    • Timing-related fault codes in advanced cases

    Typically $1,800–$3,500 to put right.

Toyota Blade service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Toyota Blade. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Toyota Blade (E150) · 2007–2012 · 3.5L 2GR-FE - Blade Master

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the drive belt and confirm the water pump is in good health.

  2. 150,000 km

    Review suspension parts such as the struts and sway bar links for a tighter ride.

  3. 200,000 km

    Flush the cooling system, and have the transmission fluid checked professionally.

Toyota Blade (E150) · 2006–2012 · 2.4L 2AZ-FE - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    A major service point: new iridium spark plugs, a CVT fluid check or change, and a careful look at the water pump for leaks.

  2. 150,000 km

    Assess the engine mounts and suspension bushings, and flush the cooling system so the radiator and hoses stay dependable through NZ summers.

  3. 200,000 km

    Give the timing chain tensioner and alternator brushes a full check; both are typical wear items on high-mileage Toyota four-cylinders.

Toyota Blade (E150) · 2006–2012 · 2.4L 2AZ-FE - 4WD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the suspension bushings and shock absorbers for perishing.

  2. 150,000 km

    A thorough transmission fluid flush here helps the CVT last.

  3. 200,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system, water pump and thermostat included, so it does not overheat.

See all 10 documented issuesEverything researched for the Toyota Blade, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Toyota Blade has — 10Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling6

012AZ-FE Excessive Oil Consumption and Head Bolt Thread Pullout

Check oil level against service records and ask for top-up frequency.petrol2006–2012Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Super CVT-i Shudder and Judder Under Light Throttle Acceleration

petrol2006–2012Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Excessive oil consumption from carboned piston rings (2.4 2AZ-FE)

Pull the dipstick cold before the test drive - a low or dirty reading on a car being sold is a bad sign.petrol2006–2012Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Super CVT-i (K111) wear from neglected fluid changes on JDM imports

petrol2006–2012Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

052GR-FE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Wear

Cold-start the engine and listen for chain rattle from the top-front of the engine.petrol2006–2012Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3.5L 2GR-FE V6 engine fitted to the Blade Master G uses a secondary timing chain system whose tensioner weakens with age and infrequent oil changes. This is a documented issue across Toyota and Lexus vehicles sharing the 2GR-FE platform including the Kluger and Camry V6. NZ mechanics report this on imported Blade 3.5 models, with cold-start chain rattle that intensifies as the chain stretches further if unaddressed.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start
  • Rattle that persists for more than a few seconds before oil pressure builds
  • Timing-related fault codes in advanced cases

What to check

Cold-start the engine and listen for chain rattle from the top-front of the engine. A rattle lingering beyond a few seconds is a warning sign. Check oil change history as low or dirty oil accelerates chain and tensioner wear.

Where to look: Secondary timing chain at the front of the 2GR-FE engine between the two cylinder bank camshafts

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Any rattling noise on start-up, especially when cold?”
  • “Has the timing chain been inspected?”
  • “What oil grade and change interval has been used?”

062AZ-FE and 3GR-FSE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

Start the engine from cold and listen immediately for a metallic rattle from the front of the engine lasting more than one to two seconds.petrol2006–2012Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Electrical1

01Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Failure

2006–2012Electrical
CommonElectrical $350–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The air conditioning compressor electromagnetic clutch on the Blade is a wear item that fails with age and thermal cycling, particularly on JDM-imported vehicles where the air conditioning system is used extensively year-round. The clutch coil can develop an open circuit eliminating the magnetic field, or the clutch disc friction material wears flush allowing the disc to slip without engaging the compressor shaft. A failed clutch results in total loss of cabin cooling and, if the bearing seizes, can cause the drive belt to snap and disable the alternator and power steering pump. Early-stage slip also leads to refrigerant overheating.

Symptoms to notice

  • Air conditioning not cooling or producing only marginally cooler than ambient air from vents
  • Squealing or chirping noise from the engine bay when AC is switched on
  • Clutch disc visibly not engaging when AC is selected — compressor pulley spinning freely without the centre hub rotating
  • AC light flashing or system cutting out intermittently due to clutch slip detected by the AC control module

What to check

  1. With the engine running and AC selected, observe the compressor clutch at the front of the compressor — the centre disc and hub should engage immediately with an audible click and rotate with the compressor shaft.
  2. Listen for squealing or slipping sounds indicating clutch slip.
  3. Test cabin cooling performance: the system should produce vent temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius on a warm day within two minutes.
  4. Inspect the drive belt for glazing or cracking consistent with past slippage.

Where to look: Engine bay — front face of the AC compressor, driven by the accessory belt

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the air conditioning produce cold air consistently?”
  • “Has the AC compressor or clutch ever been replaced or the system re-gassed?”
  • “Has the drive belt been replaced recently?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Visually inspect the dust boot for cracking, splitting, or grease leakage.2006–2012Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arm ball joints on the Blade/Auris E150 platform deteriorate with age and mileage, a pattern consistent across this generation of Toyota compact vehicles. The rubber dust boot cracks and allows moisture and road contamination to reach the joint, accelerating internal wear of the ball stud and socket, eventually producing excessive play. A worn ball joint is a critical safety failure as it can allow the wheel to separate from the suspension under load.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps or during low-speed turning manoeuvres
  • Vague or imprecise steering feel with the wheel pulling to one side under braking
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on the front axle
  • Visible cracked or missing dust boot on the lower ball joint

What to check

Visually inspect the dust boot for cracking, splitting, or grease leakage. Check for clunking from the front suspension on sharp turns at low speed or when hitting a pothole. If a workshop inspection is possible: Confirm joint movement does not exceed Toyota specified tolerance with a dial gauge. With the vehicle on a hoist, grasp the tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and attempt to rock the wheel; any free movement in the lower ball joint is a failure.

Where to look: Front suspension — lower control arm, one per side

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle recently passed a Warrant of Fitness, and what was the inspection date?”
  • “Have the front lower control arms or ball joints ever been replaced?”
  • “Has the car been used on unsealed roads regularly?”

02Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Clunk

2006–2012Suspension
CommonSuspension $650–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Blade uses an electric power steering (EPS) rack and pinion unit that is susceptible to developing a rattle or clunk when the steering wheel is turned at low speed or when road inputs are transmitted through the rack. The noise originates from wear between the rack teeth and pinion, or from internal rack bush deterioration allowing the rack shaft to move axially under load. The EPS motor coupling and intermediate shaft universal joints can also develop lash that transmits as a knock into the steering column. Unlike hydraulic racks, the EPS unit is sealed and cannot be lubricated in service; worn units require replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clunking noise from the steering rack area when turning slowly in a car park or manoeuvring
  • Knocking felt through the steering wheel when driving over small bumps or expansion joints
  • EPS warning light illuminating, particularly in cold conditions, indicating motor or torque sensor fault
  • Vague or loose feeling at the steering wheel centre consistent with increased internal rack play

What to check

  1. With the vehicle stationary, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and listen and feel for any rattle, click, or clunk through the wheel or column.
  2. Drive over small bumps and listen for a rattle from the front of the car that changes with steering angle.
  3. Inspect the intermediate shaft and universal joints beneath the dashboard for play.
  4. Ask if the EPS warning light has ever appeared.
  5. Check for any looseness felt in the steering wheel on centre.

Where to look: Front of vehicle — EPS rack and pinion unit mounted to the front subframe, intermediate shaft and column

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the steering ever made a rattling or clunking noise when parking?”
  • “Has the EPS warning light ever come on?”
  • “Has any steering work been carried out on the vehicle?”

03Rear Multi-Link Suspension Bush Collapse

Inspect rubber bush outer faces for splitting, cracking, and separation from the metal sleeve.2006–2012Suspension
CommonSuspension $600–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Blade's independent rear multi-link suspension relies on multiple rubber-bonded bushes to locate the trailing arms, lateral links, and toe control links. On vehicles of this age the original rubber compound deteriorates and delaminates from the metal inserts, allowing the rear subframe links to move outside their designed geometry. Collapsed rear bushes cause rear-end instability, toe-angle deviation, and uneven rear tyre wear, and the condition can cause the rear to step out unpredictably under hard cornering. Full rear bush replacement using OEM or polyurethane replacements is the correct remediation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear tyre wear on the inner or outer edge inconsistent with the vehicle's alignment history
  • Rear-end wander or instability, particularly on highway lane changes or under hard cornering
  • Clunking or thudding from the rear suspension over broken surfaces or speed humps
  • Most recent wheel alignment showing rear toe or camber outside specification

What to check

Inspect rubber bush outer faces for splitting, cracking, and separation from the metal sleeve. Examine the rear tyres for uneven wear across the tread face consistent with toe deviation. A wheel alignment report showing rear toe or camber out of specification is a reliable indicator of collapsed bushes. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, physically push and pull each rear lateral link and trailing arm to feel for any movement in the bushes beyond normal flex.

Where to look: Rear suspension — multi-link subframe, trailing arm pivot bushes, lateral link inner and outer bushes

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear suspension been inspected or had any bush replacement?”
  • “Does the car have a current wheel alignment report, and were rear angles in spec?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever tracked or wandered on the motorway?”

Toyota Blade faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Blade’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Blade buyer questions

Is the Toyota Blade reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 10 documented faults for the Toyota Blade, the recurring problem areas are engine, suspension, and transmission. A Toyota Blade with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Blade?

We've catalogued 10 known faults for the Toyota Blade, covering engine, suspension, and transmission. All 10 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Blade?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Blade fall between $600–$2,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 10 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Blade?

Yes. A Toyota Blade inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.