Toyota Highlander: 2GR-FE V6 rubber oil line rupture — can dump engine oil in seconds
2GR-FE V6 rubber oil line rupture — can dump engine oil in seconds is a common fluid leaks fault on the Toyota Highlander on the 2007–2012 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $400 to $1,200 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 12 documented faults on the Toyota Highlander.
- Vehicle
- Toyota Highlander
- Engine
- 2GR-FE
- Years
- 2007–2012
- Fuel
- petrol
- System
- Fluid Leaks
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
XU40 Highlanders/Klugers with the 3.5 V6 (particularly 2008-2011 with the towing package oil cooler) use an oil line with a rubber hose section between metal pipes near the oil filter, plus a rubber VVT-i oil supply hose; both degrade and can rupture, dumping oil rapidly and destroying the engine if driven on. Toyota ran warranty enhancement/limited service campaigns (e.g. for the VVT-i hose) replacing rubber with all-metal lines, but those programs have long expired and not every car was done. Any remaining original rubber line is a time bomb worth checking.
What you would notice
- Oil spots under the front of the car
- Oil pressure warning light
- Sudden loud tapping after oil loss
- Oil misting on the front subframe near the filter
How to check it
Where to look. Beside the oil filter at the front lower part of the 3.5 V6, and the VVT-i oil hose on the front of the engine
With a torch, look near the oil filter for a short rubber hose joining two metal oil pipes — an all-metal line means the update was done.
Check the VVT-i oil hose at the front of the engine for seepage.
Look for fresh oil on the subframe and driveway.
Ask for the invoice showing the metal-line update.
What it costs to put right
$400 to $1,200 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the rubber oil cooler line been replaced with the all-metal update?”
- “Was the VVT-i oil hose ever done?”
- “Has it ever lost oil pressure or been run low on oil?”
Now check the Toyota Highlander you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
Toyota Highlander buyer questions
Is 2gr-fe v6 rubber oil line rupture — can dump engine oil in seconds serious on a Toyota Highlander?
We rate it critical and common on the Toyota Highlander. XU40 Highlanders/Klugers with the 3.5 V6 (particularly 2008-2011 with the towing package oil cooler) use an oil line with a rubber hose section between metal pipes near the oil filter, plus a rubber VVT-i oil supply hose; both degrade and can rupture, dumping oil rapidly and destroying the engine if driven on. Toyota ran warranty enhancement/limited service campaigns (e.g. for the VVT-i hose) replacing rubber with all-metal lines, but those programs have long expired and not every car was done. Any remaining original rubber line is a time bomb worth checking.
How much does it cost to fix on a Toyota Highlander?
$400 to $1,200 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Toyota Highlander years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2007–2012 Toyota Highlander. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
With a torch, look near the oil filter for a short rubber hose joining two metal oil pipes — an all-metal line means the update was done. Check the VVT-i oil hose at the front of the engine for seepage. Look for fresh oil on the subframe and driveway. Ask for the invoice showing the metal-line update. Look here: Beside the oil filter at the front lower part of the 3.5 V6, and the VVT-i oil hose on the front of the engine