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Toyota1996–2009 Critical issues documented

Toyota Ipsum: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Toyota Ipsum (1996–2009) in New Zealand? We've documented 11 known faults for this model spanning engine, cooling, suspension, and transmission. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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11

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$800–$2,800

Typical repair

15

Service milestones

Which Toyota Ipsum are you looking at?

1 generation variant documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Petrol

1 variant documented

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

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Toyota Ipsum

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Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Ipsum

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Ipsum before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.

    See why

    3S-FE Timing Belt Failure

    The 3S-FE in the SXM10 Ipsum is an interference engine with a toothed rubber timing belt. Toyota's specified replacement interval is 100,000 km, but many imported SXM10s arrive in NZ/AU with undocumented belt history. Belt failure at operating speed causes immediate valve-to-piston contact, typically bending all eight intake valves. Idler pulley bearing seizure and tensioner spring fatigue are the confirmed mechanical triggers for belt failure ahead of wear-related breakage.

    What you would notice

    • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup
    • Difficult cold start or unstable idle

    Typically $490–$980 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check engine oil level on the dipstick before and after a short test drive.

    See why

    2AZ-FE Excessive Engine Oil Consumption (Piston Ring Flutter)

    The 2AZ-FE 2.4-litre four-cylinder engine fitted to the ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum is subject to a well-documented and widespread oil consumption defect. The piston rings are prone to flutter at mid-range RPM, allowing engine oil to pass into the combustion chamber and burn off. Toyota acknowledged the issue through multiple Technical Service Bulletins and an extended warranty policy covering piston assembly replacement. In the United States a class action lawsuit (Philips v. Toyota Motor Corp.) was settled, with Toyota extending coverage to 150,000 miles for qualifying vehicles. Affected engines can consume one litre of oil per 1,000 km or less, far exceeding normal tolerances. Left unaddressed the catalytic converter becomes oil-fouled, oxygen sensors fail prematurely, and the engine risks seizure from oil starvation.

    What you would notice

    • Oil level dropping by more than 0.5 litres per 1,000 km between services
    • Blue or grey smoke visible from the exhaust, particularly on acceleration from low RPM or on engine overrun
    • Catalytic converter damage or persistent check-engine light related to oxygen sensor readings
    • Oily, sooty residue around the exhaust tailpipe

    Typically $3,500–$9,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Look directly at the rubber bush material for cracks, splitting, or deformation.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration

    The front suspension lower control arm on the ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum uses two rubber bushes — a front pivot bush and a rear compliance bush — to isolate the arm from the subframe. These rubber bushes degrade progressively with age, UV exposure, and the dynamic loads of New Zealand's varied road surfaces. Deteriorated bushes allow excessive arm movement, producing vague or imprecise steering response, a clunking sensation over bumps or during braking, and accelerated tyre wear in the form of inner-edge feathering. Failed bushes are a common WOF (Warrant of Fitness) rejection point in New Zealand. The compliance bush at the rear of the arm is typically the first to crack or collapse.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension over road irregularities, speed bumps, or during braking
    • Vague or wandering steering feel, requiring constant minor correction on straight roads
    • Uneven or premature tyre wear, particularly inner-edge feathering on the front tyres
    • Visible cracking, splitting, or deformation of the rubber bush material on inspection

    Typically $350–$950 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test the power sliding door through at least five full open-and-close cycles.

    See why

    Power Sliding Door Cable and Motor Failure

    The ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum features a power sliding door system on one or both rear doors driven by a cable-and-drum motor assembly. The steel cable is routed through guide channels along the door aperture and is subject to fraying, kinking, and eventual snapping, particularly in the areas where it passes over guide pulleys. The motor unit develops brush wear and gear-strip faults in older examples. Failed cables can leave the door stuck open or closed, or cause the door to move partway and reverse. Toyota issued dealer service notices regarding cable inspection intervals for this generation of Ipsum and related Picnic/Avensis Verso models. A door that closes intermittently or jams presents a safety hazard for passengers, particularly children.

    What you would notice

    • Sliding door stops midway during operation and reverses, or fails to reach the fully open or closed position
    • Grinding or clicking noise from the rear quarter panel during door movement
    • Door operating inconsistently — working on some attempts but not others
    • Door warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster

    Typically $500–$1,800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    During the test drive, check for smooth upshifts through all four gears under gentle and moderate throttle.

    See why

    Automatic Transmission Solenoid Failure (U241E) Causing Erratic Shifts

    The Ipsum ACM21/ACM26 uses the Toyota U241E four-speed automatic transmission. The solenoid pack within this unit — comprising shift solenoids S1, S2 and the linear solenoid SLT controlling line pressure — is susceptible to failure with age and mileage, particularly when transmission fluid changes have been neglected. Failed or sticking solenoids produce erratic gear selection, delayed engagement from rest, hunting between gears at highway cruise, and harsh downshifts. In some cases the transmission enters a fail-safe mode locked in third gear. The fluid passages within the valve body can also accumulate varnish deposits from degraded ATF, compounding solenoid issues. Full valve body replacement or solenoid pack replacement is typically required; internal work necessitates transmission removal.

    What you would notice

    • Delayed or jerky engagement when selecting Drive or Reverse from Park
    • Transmission hunting between gears at steady highway speed or refusing to select the correct gear ratio
    • Harsh, clunking downshifts under light braking or deceleration
    • Transmission stuck in a single gear (limp-home third gear fail-safe mode) with overdrive light flashing

    Typically $700–$2,500 to put right.

  • Common issue

    On the test drive listen for knocks over bumps and when turning at low speed, and feel for looseness or a notch through the wheel on full lock.

    See why

    Front strut-top mounts and lower-arm bushes wear out on a loaded people-mover

    The Ipsum / Avensis Verso is a tall, heavy three-row MPV that is regularly run fully loaded with people and gear, and its MacPherson-strut front end takes a hard life. On higher-mileage NZ examples the front strut-top mounts (with their bearing plates), the lower control-arm bushes and the ball joints wear and produce a clunk or knock over bumps, at low speed and when turning, often together with slightly vague steering or a knock on full lock. It is a wear item rather than a design flaw, but on a car that is now 15-plus years old and imported with unknown load history it is very common to find at least one worn front component, and many cars need the mounts, bushes and shocks refreshed together. It is a warrant-of-fitness and safety concern rather than a breakdown risk, and worn parts are cheap and readily available in New Zealand.

    What you would notice

    • Knock or clunk from the front over bumps, speed humps or on turn-in
    • Knocking or notchy feel from the top of the strut when turning at low speed
    • Vague or wandering steering, or a car that does not track straight
    • Uneven or feathered front tyre wear
    • Creak from the front suspension over driveways and dips

    Typically $600–$2,000 to put right.

Toyota Ipsum service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Toyota Ipsum. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Toyota Ipsum (XM20 Series) · 2001–2009 · 2AZ-FE 2.4L Petrol - AWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system, as the plastic radiator tanks go brittle over time.

  2. 200,000 km

    Check the suspension bushings and shock absorbers for perishing, which is normal on a family car of this age.

  3. 250,000 km

    Make sure the alternator and starter motor have been tested, as both are expected to reach the end of their life about here.

Toyota Ipsum (XM20 Series) · 2001–2009 · 2AZ-FE 2.4L Petrol - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    If the service history does not show it, do a major fluid refresh including the transmission fluid and a coolant flush.

  2. 200,000 km

    Good time to check the engine mounts, as vibration from the 2.4L engine eventually breaks down the rubber.

  3. 250,000 km

    Keeping an eye on the ignition system, the coils and spark plugs in particular, matters more from here for fuel economy.

Toyota Ipsum (XM10 Series) · 2000–2001 · 3S-FE 2.0L Petrol - AWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Check the cooling system hoses and the condition of the radiator.

  2. 200,000 km

    Give the suspension bushings and steering rack boots a thorough check.

  3. 250,000 km

    Assess the engine mounts, and give the transmission fluid a deep service.

Toyota Ipsum (XM10 Series) · 2000–2001 · 3C-TE 2.2L Turbo Diesel - FWD

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 200,000 km

    Cooling system hoses and the radiator may need checking for brittle rubber or blockages.

  2. 250,000 km

    Check the turbocharger bearings and how well the fuel injection pump is performing.

  3. 300,000 km

    Suspension parts such as the shocks and struts often need replacing here to keep the ride comfortable.

Toyota Ipsum (XM10 Series) · 2000–2001 · 3C-TE 2.2L Turbo Diesel - AWD

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 200,000 km

    Confirm the timing belt service history and check the turbocharger seals.

  2. 250,000 km

    Review the suspension bushings and struts, which may be past their best by now.

  3. 300,000 km

    Check the radiator and hoses so the cooling system does not let you down unexpectedly.

See all 11 documented issuesEverything researched for the Toyota Ipsum, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Toyota Ipsum has — 11Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling7

012AZ-FE Head Bolt Thread Pull-Out in Aluminium Block

The 2AZ-FE aluminium block uses blind threaded holes for the cylinder head bolts.petrol2001–2009Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,200–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2AZ-FE aluminium block uses blind threaded holes for the cylinder head bolts. When the head is removed for gasket replacement or overhaul and the bolts retorqued into an aluminium bore that has been softened by heat cycling, the threads can strip or pull out of the block material. Toyota issued TSB EG018-04 and related service guidance recommending the use of thread-insert repair kits (Helicoil-type inserts) when head bolts are reinstalled. If thread pull-out is not caught during reassembly, the head gasket cannot be clamped correctly, leading to immediate coolant or combustion gas leakage and catastrophic overheating. The risk is compounded by the oil consumption issue above, because overheating events from low oil pressure accelerate head removal frequency.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss without external leak, suggesting internal combustion-gas ingress into the coolant passages
  • White steam or sweet-smelling exhaust indicating coolant burning in cylinders
  • Overheating warning light activation shortly after a head gasket repair
  • Bubbling in the coolant reservoir under idle conditions (combustion gas ingress test positive)

What to check

If the engine has had a head gasket replacement in its service history, specifically ask whether thread condition was checked and whether inserts were fitted. A recently replaced head gasket with no record of thread inspection is a red flag. During inspection, check for coolant weeping at the head-to-block face and look for white or rust-coloured residue around the head gasket perimeter. An engine that overheated in service is at elevated risk.

Where to look: Cylinder block — head bolt threaded bores, all 10 bolt positions

Parts involved: Cylinder head, Head gasket.

023S-FE Timing Belt Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol1996–2002Engine
CommonEngine $490–$980 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3S-FE in the SXM10 Ipsum is an interference engine with a toothed rubber timing belt. Toyota's specified replacement interval is 100,000 km, but many imported SXM10s arrive in NZ/AU with undocumented belt history. Belt failure at operating speed causes immediate valve-to-piston contact, typically bending all eight intake valves. Idler pulley bearing seizure and tensioner spring fatigue are the confirmed mechanical triggers for belt failure ahead of wear-related breakage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup
  • Difficult cold start or unstable idle

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Timing belt.

032AZ-FE Excessive Engine Oil Consumption (Piston Ring Flutter)

Check engine oil level on the dipstick before and after a short test drive.petrol2001–2009Engine
Very commonEngine $3,500–$9,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2AZ-FE 2.4-litre four-cylinder engine fitted to the ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum is subject to a well-documented and widespread oil consumption defect. The piston rings are prone to flutter at mid-range RPM, allowing engine oil to pass into the combustion chamber and burn off. Toyota acknowledged the issue through multiple Technical Service Bulletins and an extended warranty policy covering piston assembly replacement. In the United States a class action lawsuit (Philips v. Toyota Motor Corp.) was settled, with Toyota extending coverage to 150,000 miles for qualifying vehicles. Affected engines can consume one litre of oil per 1,000 km or less, far exceeding normal tolerances. Left unaddressed the catalytic converter becomes oil-fouled, oxygen sensors fail prematurely, and the engine risks seizure from oil starvation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil level dropping by more than 0.5 litres per 1,000 km between services
  • Blue or grey smoke visible from the exhaust, particularly on acceleration from low RPM or on engine overrun
  • Catalytic converter damage or persistent check-engine light related to oxygen sensor readings
  • Oily, sooty residue around the exhaust tailpipe

What to check

  1. Check engine oil level on the dipstick before and after a short test drive.
  2. Look for blue-grey smoke from the exhaust under acceleration and on overrun.
  3. Inspect the oil filler cap and underside of the rocker cover for creamy or heavily sooty deposits.
  4. Ask the seller how often oil is topped up between services.
  5. Request service records showing oil top-up frequency.
  6. If a workshop inspection is possible: A compression and leakdown test will reveal ring seal loss.

Where to look: Engine internals — pistons and piston ring lands, cylinders 1–4

Parts involved: Catalytic converter.

042.4 2AZ-FE excessive oil consumption (carbonised / low-tension oil-control rings)

petrol2001–2009Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

052AZ-FE stripped head-bolt threads causing head-gasket / coolant failure

petrol2001–2009Cooling
OccasionalCooling $1,800–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2AZ-FE fitted to the Ipsum, Picnic and Avensis Verso has a well-known weakness in the aluminium block: three of the cylinder-head-bolt holes sit at the thinnest, hottest part of the casting and can strip or pull their threads after years of heat cycling or a single over-torque during a head job. When the threads let go the head-bolt clamping load drops and the head gasket starts to leak, most often as an external coolant weep at the back of the head under the intake, progressing to coolant loss, overheating and, if ignored, white exhaust smoke or milky oil. The issue is strongest on the earlier 2AZ engines (roughly 2002-2006 build) which covers much of this Ipsum generation. The durable fix is not just a gasket but drilling and fitting steel thread inserts (Time-Sert / Huhn-type) so the bolts have fresh threads; a plain gasket alone tends to fail again. No Japanese-market recall or warranty program covers this on the Ipsum.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant weeping or staining at the rear of the cylinder head / under the intake
  • Coolant level dropping with no obvious external hose leak
  • Engine running hot or temperature gauge climbing in traffic or on hills
  • White smoke from the exhaust or a sweet coolant smell
  • Milky residue on the oil cap or dipstick in advanced cases

What to check

  1. Check the coolant level and the header tank for oil contamination or a mayonnaise-like film, and smell the exhaust for a sweet coolant odour on warm-up.
  2. With the engine cold, look along the back edge of the cylinder head and around the head-gasket line for coolant staining or fresh sealant.
  3. Watch the temperature gauge on a longer test drive, especially loaded or uphill, and ask whether any head-gasket or head-bolt thread-insert work has been done and whether steel inserts were fitted.

Where to look: Cylinder head to block joint / head-bolt holes in the aluminium block, rear of the 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the head gasket ever been replaced, and were steel thread inserts fitted to the block?”
  • “Does the coolant level drop, or has the engine ever overheated?”
  • “Is there any coolant weeping visible at the back of the engine?”
  • “Do you have paperwork for any cooling-system or cylinder-head repairs?”

062AZ-FE Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle on Cold Start

The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the 2AZ-FE relies on oil pressure to maintain chain tension.petrol2001–2009Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the 2AZ-FE relies on oil pressure to maintain chain tension. At cold start, before oil pressure builds, the tensioner can bleed down and allow chain slack, producing a pronounced metallic rattling or clattering noise from the front of the engine. The noise typically clears within 5–15 seconds once oil pressure is established. On high-mileage engines or those with infrequent oil changes, the tensioner check valve wears and bleed-down worsens. Prolonged rattling accelerates timing chain guide wear and eventually allows chain stretch. A severely worn chain can jump a tooth on the camshaft sprocket, causing misfires or, in worst cases, piston-to-valve contact.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or clattering from the front of the engine on cold start, lasting 5–20 seconds
  • Persistent low-level chain noise at idle on a fully warmed engine indicating advanced wear
  • Check engine light with camshaft position sensor codes (P0011, P0012) caused by timing chain stretch affecting cam timing

What to check

Cold-start the engine from fully cold (not warmed for showing) and listen for metallic rattling from the front-left of the engine during the first 5–20 seconds. Record or note the duration of the rattle. Check for any history of the tensioner or chain guides being replaced. On a warm engine, remove the oil filler cap and listen for chain noise at idle. If a workshop inspection is possible: Use a stethoscope on the timing cover to differentiate chain rattle from valve train noise.

Where to look: Front of engine — timing chain cover, upper left side of block near camshaft sprockets

Parts involved: Timing chain.

07Automatic Transmission Solenoid Failure (U241E) Causing Erratic Shifts

During the test drive, check for smooth upshifts through all four gears under gentle and moderate throttle.petrol2001–2009Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $700–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Ipsum ACM21/ACM26 uses the Toyota U241E four-speed automatic transmission. The solenoid pack within this unit — comprising shift solenoids S1, S2 and the linear solenoid SLT controlling line pressure — is susceptible to failure with age and mileage, particularly when transmission fluid changes have been neglected. Failed or sticking solenoids produce erratic gear selection, delayed engagement from rest, hunting between gears at highway cruise, and harsh downshifts. In some cases the transmission enters a fail-safe mode locked in third gear. The fluid passages within the valve body can also accumulate varnish deposits from degraded ATF, compounding solenoid issues. Full valve body replacement or solenoid pack replacement is typically required; internal work necessitates transmission removal.

Symptoms to notice

  • Delayed or jerky engagement when selecting Drive or Reverse from Park
  • Transmission hunting between gears at steady highway speed or refusing to select the correct gear ratio
  • Harsh, clunking downshifts under light braking or deceleration
  • Transmission stuck in a single gear (limp-home third gear fail-safe mode) with overdrive light flashing

What to check

During the test drive, check for smooth upshifts through all four gears under gentle and moderate throttle. Note any hesitation, flare, or harsh clunk during gear changes. Hold a steady highway speed and check for gear hunting or unexpected kickdowns. Check the condition and smell of the transmission fluid via the dipstick: burnt smell or dark brown colour indicates overdue fluid or heat damage. If a workshop inspection is possible: Retrieve OBD fault codes — solenoid failure typically logs P0750, P0755, P0760, or P0765 (shift solenoid circuit codes).

Where to look: Automatic transmission — valve body and solenoid pack on the lower side of the gearbox unit

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

Electrical1

01Power Sliding Door Cable and Motor Failure

Test the power sliding door through at least five full open-and-close cycles.petrol2001–2009Electrical
CommonElectrical $500–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum features a power sliding door system on one or both rear doors driven by a cable-and-drum motor assembly. The steel cable is routed through guide channels along the door aperture and is subject to fraying, kinking, and eventual snapping, particularly in the areas where it passes over guide pulleys. The motor unit develops brush wear and gear-strip faults in older examples. Failed cables can leave the door stuck open or closed, or cause the door to move partway and reverse. Toyota issued dealer service notices regarding cable inspection intervals for this generation of Ipsum and related Picnic/Avensis Verso models. A door that closes intermittently or jams presents a safety hazard for passengers, particularly children.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door stops midway during operation and reverses, or fails to reach the fully open or closed position
  • Grinding or clicking noise from the rear quarter panel during door movement
  • Door operating inconsistently — working on some attempts but not others
  • Door warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster

What to check

  1. Test the power sliding door through at least five full open-and-close cycles.
  2. Listen for grinding, hesitation, or cable-slipping sounds.
  3. Check that the door reaches its fully open and fully closed detent positions smoothly without jerking.
  4. Inspect the cable channel at the bottom of the door opening for fraying or visible cable damage.
  5. Verify that the manual override handle inside the door functions correctly.
  6. If a workshop inspection is possible: Check for any fault codes stored by the sliding door ECU using an OBD reader with Toyota-specific data access.

Where to look: Rear door aperture — cable track along the B-pillar and door sill; motor unit mounted inside the rear quarter panel

Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Internal Wear

The ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum is fitted with an electric power steering (EPS) rack.petrol2003–2009Suspension
CommonSuspension $800–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum is fitted with an electric power steering (EPS) rack. As these units accumulate mileage, two distinct faults emerge: first, the internal rack gear-to-pinion mesh develops wear play that produces a rattle or clunk when the steering is loaded laterally, such as traversing a pothole or mid-corner bump; second, the electric assist motor's carbon brushes and worm drive can wear, causing variable or sudden loss of power assistance. The EPS control module can also generate fault codes and disable assistance in fail-safe mode if sensor inputs are out of range. The rattle is felt and heard through the steering wheel and the footwell. Full rack replacement is expensive; reconditioned units from specialist EPS rebuilders are the most cost-effective repair path.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or rattling noise through the steering wheel when hitting a pothole or road irregularity
  • Notchy or inconsistent steering feel during slow manoeuvring such as parking
  • EPS warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster, sometimes accompanied by heavy or assisted steering loss
  • Steering wheel vibration or shimmy transmitted from the rack under load mid-corner

What to check

During the test drive, traverse a rough road or a speed bump at a slight angle and listen for a clunk or rattle from the steering rack area beneath the dashboard. Perform slow, full lock-to-lock steering sweeps in a carpark and feel for notchiness, dead spots, or vibration transmitted through the wheel. Check that the EPS warning light does not illuminate during the drive. On a stationary vehicle, apply body weight to the front bumper and rock the vehicle side to side while an assistant holds the steering wheel — any movement should be clean with no clunking from the rack mounts or internal gear mesh.

Where to look: Steering rack — mounted transversely across the subframe behind the engine, electric assist motor mounted on the rack body

Parts involved: Steering rack.

02Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration

Look directly at the rubber bush material for cracks, splitting, or deformation.petrol2001–2009Suspension
Very commonSuspension $350–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front suspension lower control arm on the ACM21/ACM26 Ipsum uses two rubber bushes — a front pivot bush and a rear compliance bush — to isolate the arm from the subframe. These rubber bushes degrade progressively with age, UV exposure, and the dynamic loads of New Zealand's varied road surfaces. Deteriorated bushes allow excessive arm movement, producing vague or imprecise steering response, a clunking sensation over bumps or during braking, and accelerated tyre wear in the form of inner-edge feathering. Failed bushes are a common WOF (Warrant of Fitness) rejection point in New Zealand. The compliance bush at the rear of the arm is typically the first to crack or collapse.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension over road irregularities, speed bumps, or during braking
  • Vague or wandering steering feel, requiring constant minor correction on straight roads
  • Uneven or premature tyre wear, particularly inner-edge feathering on the front tyres
  • Visible cracking, splitting, or deformation of the rubber bush material on inspection

What to check

  1. Look directly at the rubber bush material for cracks, splitting, or deformation.
  2. Check for oily residue around the bush indicating the rubber has separated from its metal sleeve.
  3. At road speed, note any vagueness in straight-line tracking or clunking from the front during braking.
  4. Request a recent WOF certificate and check whether suspension was noted as a reason for any past failure.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist or safely supported on stands, grip the front lower arm and apply fore-and-aft and lateral force while watching the bush mounting points for visible movement or cracking.

Where to look: Front suspension — lower control arm, front and rear pivot bush mounts at the subframe attachment points

Parts involved: Ball joint.

03Front strut-top mounts and lower-arm bushes wear out on a loaded people-mover

On the test drive listen for knocks over bumps and when turning at low speed, and feel for looseness or a notch through the wheel on full lock.2001–2009Suspension
CommonSuspension $600–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Ipsum / Avensis Verso is a tall, heavy three-row MPV that is regularly run fully loaded with people and gear, and its MacPherson-strut front end takes a hard life. On higher-mileage NZ examples the front strut-top mounts (with their bearing plates), the lower control-arm bushes and the ball joints wear and produce a clunk or knock over bumps, at low speed and when turning, often together with slightly vague steering or a knock on full lock. It is a wear item rather than a design flaw, but on a car that is now 15-plus years old and imported with unknown load history it is very common to find at least one worn front component, and many cars need the mounts, bushes and shocks refreshed together. It is a warrant-of-fitness and safety concern rather than a breakdown risk, and worn parts are cheap and readily available in New Zealand.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Knock or clunk from the front over bumps, speed humps or on turn-in
  • Knocking or notchy feel from the top of the strut when turning at low speed
  • Vague or wandering steering, or a car that does not track straight
  • Uneven or feathered front tyre wear
  • Creak from the front suspension over driveways and dips

What to check

On the test drive listen for knocks over bumps and when turning at low speed, and feel for looseness or a notch through the wheel on full lock. With the car raised or by rocking each front wheel, check for play in the ball joints and lower-arm bushes and for a rough or seized strut-top bearing, and look for oil weeping from the front shocks. Inspect front tyres for uneven wear that hints at worn suspension or alignment.

Where to look: Front MacPherson struts, strut-top mounts / bearing plates, lower control-arm bushes and ball joints

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut, Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have any front suspension parts - struts, top mounts, bushes or ball joints - been replaced, and when?”
  • “Do you hear knocks or creaks from the front over bumps or when turning?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment, and does the car pull or wander?”
  • “Has it recently passed a warrant of fitness with no suspension advisories?”

Toyota Ipsum faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Ipsum’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Ipsum buyer questions

Is the Toyota Ipsum reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 11 documented faults for the Toyota Ipsum, the recurring problem areas are engine, cooling, and suspension. A Toyota Ipsum with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Ipsum?

We've catalogued 11 known faults for the Toyota Ipsum, covering engine, cooling, and suspension. All 11 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Ipsum?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Ipsum fall between $800–$2,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 11 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Ipsum?

Yes. A Toyota Ipsum inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.