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Toyota2002 Major issues documented

Toyota Probox: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Toyota Probox (2002) in New Zealand? We've documented 6 known faults for this model spanning body & rust, engine, fluid leaks, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated major. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Probox

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

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6

Documented faults

Major

Most serious

$300–$1,300

Typical repair

17

Service milestones

Which Toyota Probox are you looking at?

4 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

Start your free check on this Toyota Probox

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Probox came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Probox

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Probox before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Costly issue

    Start the engine dead cold (first start of the day) and listen at the front timing-cover end for a short rattle.

    See why

    1NZ-FE / 2NZ-FE timing-chain tensioner and VVT-i cam-gear cold-start rattle

    The 1.5 1NZ-FE and 1.3 2NZ-FE petrol engines are chain-driven and generally very durable, but the timing-chain tensioner, chain guides and the VVT-i intake cam actuator are the known wear points as the chain stretches. On a hard-worked Probox/Succeed this typically shows up well into fleet life, commonly from around 150,000-200,000 km, as a 1-2 second rattle on cold start-up before oil pressure loads the tensioner. It is usually the VVT-i actuator gear or a tired tensioner rather than the chain itself, but a badly stretched chain left unattended risks jumping timing. No factory recall applies; this is normal high-mileage wear. Treat a persistent cold-start rattle as a reason to budget for a tensioner and VVT-i actuator, and inspect chain stretch.

    What you would notice

    • Brief metallic rattle or death-rattle for 1-2 seconds on cold start-up
    • Rattle fades once oil pressure builds and engine warms
    • Faint chain/whirring noise from the timing (accessory) end of the engine
    • Check-engine light with VVT or camshaft timing correlation codes in worse cases

    Typically $750–$2,200 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Cold-start the engine and immediately listen for chain rattle from the front of the engine block.

    See why

    1NZ-FE / 2NZ-FE timing chain tensioner cold-start rattle

    The Probox shares its NCP51 and NCP160 platform with the Succeed, carrying the same 1NZ-FE 1.5-litre and 2NZ-FE 1.3-litre engines. The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on both engines is a documented wear item that loses oil retention with age, allowing chain slack and a characteristic cold-start rattle before oil pressure re-engages the tensioner. Commercial Probox vans frequently accumulate very high mileages on extended oil change intervals, making this fault disproportionately common in the NZ/AU import fleet. Ignored tensioner wear can progress to chain stretch and jumped timing.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattle from the front of the engine on cold start, clearing within 5–15 seconds
    • Rattle that returns or worsens indicates advanced chain/tensioner wear
    • Rough idle or reduced power at cold start in severe cases
    • OBD codes relating to cam or crank timing if chain has slipped

    Typically $900–$2,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Look under the engine and along the back of the block for oil seepage.

    See why

    High-mileage engine oil leaks (rear main seal, cam and timing cover) and rising oil use

    As these engines pile on commercial mileage the 1NZ-FE/2NZ-FE develops oil seepage, with the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal the recognised weak point, followed by cam-cover and timing-cover gasket weeps. Owners and engine references also note rising oil consumption after roughly 150,000-200,000 km, driven by ageing valve-stem seals and tired piston rings, so a well-used Probox can burn as well as leak oil. There is no recall; this is wear and gasket ageing on a hard-worked drivetrain. The risk is a car that runs low on oil between services, which then accelerates the timing-chain and bearing wear above. Check for a dirty, oil-filmed lower engine and ask about top-up frequency.

    What you would notice

    • Oil film, wet crustiness or drips on the lower engine, bellhousing area or sump
    • Oil spots on the ground where the car is regularly parked
    • Needing to top up oil between scheduled services
    • Blue-ish smoke on start-up or hard acceleration in worse cases
    • Burnt-oil smell after a hard run

    Typically $250–$1,300 to put right.

  • Common issue

    After a warm run, inspect the valve cover perimeter for oil seepage.

    See why

    1NZ-FE valve cover gasket oil seepage

    As with the mechanically identical Succeed, the Probox 1NZ-FE engine's rubber valve cover gasket is a well-documented failure point at higher mileages. Commercial Probox variants used in delivery or tradesperson roles typically accumulate mileages well above 200,000 km, at which point the valve cover gasket and integral spark plug tube seals have invariably hardened and begun to seep. Oil entering spark plug wells is common and causes misfire symptoms that are frequently misdiagnosed as coil pack failure before the true source is identified.

    What you would notice

    • Burnt oil smell from engine bay during and after driving
    • Dark oily residue visible around the valve cover edges
    • Oil inside spark plug recesses when leads are removed
    • Misfire on one or more cylinders caused by oil contaminating plug boots

    Typically $180–$450 to put right.

Toyota Probox service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Toyota Probox. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Second Generation Facelift (P160) · 2018–2026 · 1.5L (1NZ-FXE) - Hybrid/GL/F Hybrid

Hybrid

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the hybrid battery cooling fan filter so the airflow stays good.

  2. 150,000 km

    Fresh inverter coolant here keeps the hybrid system at the right temperature.

  3. 200,000 km

    A full check of the hybrid battery health using diagnostic software is a sensible step for long-term ownership.

Second Generation Facelift (P160) · 2014–2026 · 1.5L (1NZ-FE) - DX/GL/F Trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Time for a major service with a serpentine belt check and new spark plugs.

  2. 150,000 km

    Have the cooling system checked, including the water pump and whether the radiator hoses have gone hard.

  3. 200,000 km

    Review the suspension geometry, and new shock absorbers may be needed to keep the classic Toyota ride.

Second Generation Facelift (P160) · 2014–2026 · 1.3L (1NR-FE) - Entry Level DX

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Flush the cooling system thoroughly and check all the rubber hoses.

  2. 150,000 km

    Keep an eye on the ignition system, checking the spark plugs and coils so it idles smoothly.

  3. 200,000 km

    Assess the suspension parts and the wheel bearings for play that could affect handling or cause road noise.

First Generation (P50) · 2002–2014 · 1.3L (2NZ-FE) - Standard Commercial Trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Flush the cooling system and check every rubber coolant hose.

  2. 200,000 km

    The alternator brushes and starter motor solenoid are worth checking or servicing before they give trouble.

  3. 250,000 km

    Worth checking the timing chain tensioner and looking for chain stretch; it is uncommon, but keep an eye out.

First Generation (P50) · 2002–2007 · 1.4L (1ND-TV) - Diesel Commercial

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Assess the alternator and starter motor, both regular service items on the 1ND-TV engine.

  2. 200,000 km

    Make sure the timing chain has been checked, as this diesel depends on the chain lasting.

First Generation (P50) · 2002–2014 · 1.5L (1NZ-FE) - F/GL/F Extra Package

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Make sure the serpentine belt has been checked for cracking and that the water pump is not seeping.

  2. 200,000 km

    A major service point where fresh transmission fluid and a check of the alternator output make sense.

  3. 250,000 km

    Have a professional look at the engine mounts by now to keep cabin vibration down.

See all 6 documented issuesEverything researched for the Toyota Probox.
Depends on which engine this Toyota Probox has — 6Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling2
Body, brakes, suspension & interior2

01Underbody, wheel-arch and tailgate corrosion on hard-worked coastal examples

2002 onwardBody & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Rear suspension sag and worn rear dampers from constant load carrying

The Probox/Succeed is bought as a load-carrying workhorse, and the rear suspension and dampers wear from years of being run loaded.2002 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $350–$1,300 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Probox/Succeed is bought as a load-carrying workhorse, and the rear suspension and dampers wear from years of being run loaded. On high-mileage examples the rear can sit low or noticeably lower on one side, the rear shocks lose their damping, and bushings tire, which shows up as bottoming-out over bumps when laden and vague handling. This is expected load-related wear rather than a design defect or recall, and it is easy to hide by inspecting the car empty. Because it directly affects ride height, tyre wear and braking stability, confirm the rear sits level and the dampers still control the load. Costs cover replacement rear dampers and, where fitted, tired springs or bushes.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear of the vehicle sits low or lower on one side, especially when loaded
  • Bottoming-out or harsh crashing over bumps when carrying weight
  • Bouncy, poorly-controlled rear ride or nose-up stance
  • Leaking or oil-filmed rear shock absorbers
  • Uneven or cupped rear tyre wear

What to check

  1. Check the car sits level front-to-rear and side-to-side on flat ground, then push down hard on each rear corner and confirm it settles in one rebound rather than bouncing.
  2. Inspect the rear dampers for oil leaks and the springs and bushings for sag, cracks or perishing.
  3. If possible, load some weight in the back and confirm the rear does not squat excessively or bottom out.

Where to look: Rear suspension - rear shock absorbers, springs and bushings

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been used to carry heavy or regular loads?”
  • “Have the rear shocks, springs or bushes ever been replaced?”
  • “Does the rear bottom out or sag when you load it up?”
  • “Does it sit level, or lower at the back or on one side?”
Fluid leaks2

01High-mileage engine oil leaks (rear main seal, cam and timing cover) and rising oil use

Look under the engine and along the back of the block for oil seepage.petrol2002 onwardFluid Leaks
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

021NZ-FE valve cover gasket oil seepage

After a warm run, inspect the valve cover perimeter for oil seepage.petrol2002 onwardFluid Leaks
Very commonFluid Leaks $180–$450 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

As with the mechanically identical Succeed, the Probox 1NZ-FE engine's rubber valve cover gasket is a well-documented failure point at higher mileages. Commercial Probox variants used in delivery or tradesperson roles typically accumulate mileages well above 200,000 km, at which point the valve cover gasket and integral spark plug tube seals have invariably hardened and begun to seep. Oil entering spark plug wells is common and causes misfire symptoms that are frequently misdiagnosed as coil pack failure before the true source is identified.

Symptoms to notice

  • Burnt oil smell from engine bay during and after driving
  • Dark oily residue visible around the valve cover edges
  • Oil inside spark plug recesses when leads are removed
  • Misfire on one or more cylinders caused by oil contaminating plug boots

What to check

After a warm run, inspect the valve cover perimeter for oil seepage. High-mileage commercial Probox units should be assumed to have a leaking valve cover gasket unless recent replacement is documented. The repair is straightforward and low cost; confirm whether it has already been done. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove all spark plug leads and check each recess for pooled oil with a torch — this is a reliable indicator of tube seal failure.

Where to look: Top of engine — valve cover perimeter gasket and spark plug tube seals

Parts involved: Rocker / valve cover.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the valve cover gasket been replaced on this vehicle?”
  • “Is there a burning oil smell when driving, or oil visible around the top of the engine?”

Toyota Probox faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Probox’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Probox buyer questions

Is the Toyota Probox reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 6 documented faults for the Toyota Probox, the recurring problem areas are body & rust, engine, and fluid leaks. A Toyota Probox with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Probox?

We've catalogued 6 known faults for the Toyota Probox, covering body & rust, engine, and fluid leaks. All 6 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Probox?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Probox fall between $300–$1,300 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 6 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Probox?

Yes. A Toyota Probox inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.