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Daihatsu2003–2019 Critical issues documented

Daihatsu Tanto: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Daihatsu Tanto (2003–2019) in New Zealand? We've documented 11 known faults for this model spanning engine, suspension, transmission, and body & rust. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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11

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$550–$2,400

Typical repair

5

Systems covered

Which Daihatsu Tanto are you looking at?

1 generation variant documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

Start your free check on this Daihatsu Tanto

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Daihatsu Tanto

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Can't confirm for this car

Daihatsu Tanto

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Daihatsu Tanto before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    With engine warm and idling, check for shaft play by gripping the compressor wheel — any radial movement indicates bearing failure.

    See why

    KF-DET Turbocharger Oil Feed Clogging and Bearing Failure

    The oil feed banjo bolt and internal oil passage supplying the KF-DET turbocharger become blocked with carbon sludge, typically from extended oil change intervals or short-trip use. Oil starvation causes the turbo's floating bearing to overheat and fail. Failure accelerates rapidly once oil feed is compromised, leading to complete turbo destruction and metal contamination of the engine oil circuit.

    What you would notice

    • Blue or white smoke from exhaust on startup and under acceleration, clearing after engine warm-up
    • Audible high-pitched whine or grinding from turbocharger that changes with engine speed
    • Loss of boost pressure and noticeably reduced power under load above 3000 rpm
    • Rapid oil consumption increase with no external leaks visible

    Typically $1,600–$3,800 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect the stud taper and nut for corrosion.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Separation

    The pressed-in front lower arm ball joint on L375S/L385S generation Tanto vehicles is prone to stud corrosion and ball joint boot failure allowing grease loss. The degraded joint can separate under load, causing sudden loss of front wheel steering and camber geometry. Daihatsu issued a recall in Japan (campaign R20110003) covering affected vehicles due to the safety-critical nature of this failure.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps or during low-speed cornering
    • Visible inward lean of the front wheel (negative camber change) indicating joint has partially separated
    • Steering pull to one side that worsens when the ball joint is under load during cornering
    • Grease residue on the lower arm or wheel arch liner from a failed ball joint boot

    Typically $380–$850 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check CVT fluid colour and smell — brown or burnt fluid indicates thermal degradation.

    See why

    D-CVT Drive Belt Judder and Secondary Pulley Wear

    The Tanto's belt-type D-CVT suffers progressive wear of the secondary (driven) pulley face and drive belt due to fluid degradation and thermal cycling. As the pulley sheave surface loses its finish, the belt micro-slips under load, causing a characteristic shuddering judder during low-speed acceleration from rest. Advanced wear causes complete belt slip, loss of drive, and internal pulley scoring that requires full unit replacement.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder or judder vibration felt through the chassis during gentle acceleration from a standstill at low speed
    • Slipping sensation or engine over-rev without corresponding vehicle acceleration under moderate throttle
    • CVT warning light illumination (yellow transmission warning on instrument cluster)
    • Burnt smell from the transmission area after driving in stop-start traffic

    Typically $2,800–$5,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check oil level on the dipstick and compare against recorded level at last service.

    See why

    KF-VE Engine Oil Consumption from Worn Piston Rings

    The KF-VE 660cc naturally aspirated engine suffers from accelerated piston ring wear and carbon build-up on the ring grooves, causing the oil control rings to stick and lose sealing effectiveness. Oil passes into the combustion chamber past worn or stuck rings and is burned, causing measured consumption rates of 0.5–1.5 litres per 1000 km. This is a design characteristic of the small-bore, high-revving KF engine when used predominantly on short urban trips where the engine does not reach full operating temperature.

    What you would notice

    • Oil level drops visibly on the dipstick between standard service intervals without any external oil leaks
    • Blue smoke emitted from the exhaust on deceleration or on cold startup that clears within one to two minutes of driving
    • Spark plugs show oil fouling with wet, dark deposits on one or more electrodes when inspected
    • Occasional misfire on cold start that clears once the engine warms, caused by oil-fouled spark plugs

    Typically $1,800–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Drive under gentle and firmer acceleration feeling for shudder, slip and whine, and ask when the CVT fluid was last changed.

    See why

    CVT belt and pulley wear at high km

    The Tanto's CVT can develop belt and pulley wear at higher mileage, showing as shudder on take-off, whine, and slipping or hesitation under load, especially if the fluid was never changed. NZ imports rarely have documented CVT servicing. Rebuilds or replacement are costly relative to the car's value.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder on take-off
    • Whine from transmission
    • Slipping or flaring under load
    • Hesitation accelerating

    Typically $800–$3,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Probe the sills, floor edges and suspension mounts for rust and check the underbody for road-salt corrosion on ex-Japan cars.

    See why

    Sill and underbody rust on NZ imports

    Tanto imports can develop rust in the sills, floor edges and suspension mounting areas, particularly examples from snowy Japanese regions using road salt, then worsened by NZ coastal use. Sill rust is a structural WoF concern. The tall boxy body also traps moisture in lower seams.

    What you would notice

    • Bubbling paint on sills
    • Rust at floor edges
    • Corrosion near suspension mounts
    • Scale under lower body seams

    Typically $400–$2,500 to put right.

See all 11 documented issuesEverything researched for the Daihatsu Tanto, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Daihatsu Tanto has — 11Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling5

01KF-DET Turbocharger Oil Feed Clogging and Bearing Failure

With engine warm and idling, check for shaft play by gripping the compressor wheel — any radial movement indicates bearing failure.petrol2007–2019Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02D-CVT Drive Belt Judder and Secondary Pulley Wear

Check CVT fluid colour and smell — brown or burnt fluid indicates thermal degradation.petrol2007–2019Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03KF-VE Engine Oil Consumption from Worn Piston Rings

Check oil level on the dipstick and compare against recorded level at last service.petrol2007–2019Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04CVT belt and pulley wear at high km

Drive under gentle and firmer acceleration feeling for shudder, slip and whine, and ask when the CVT fluid was last changed.petrol2003 onwardTransmission
CommonTransmission $800–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Tanto's CVT can develop belt and pulley wear at higher mileage, showing as shudder on take-off, whine, and slipping or hesitation under load, especially if the fluid was never changed. NZ imports rarely have documented CVT servicing. Rebuilds or replacement are costly relative to the car's value.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder on take-off
  • Whine from transmission
  • Slipping or flaring under load
  • Hesitation accelerating

What to check

Drive under gentle and firmer acceleration feeling for shudder, slip and whine, and ask when the CVT fluid was last changed.

Where to look: CVT transmission, front of vehicle

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

  • “Any shudder or slipping from the CVT?”
  • “When was the CVT fluid last serviced?”
  • “What is the mileage?”

05KF-VE oil consumption at higher mileage

Check oil level and colour, look for smoke on start-up and overrun, and ask about top-up frequency.petrol2003 onwardEngine
CommonEngine $400–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Tanto's KF-VE three-cylinder can consume oil at higher mileage through valve-stem seals and rings, and its small sump means levels fall quickly, risking damage if unchecked. City stop-start use and short trips accelerate wear. Regular level checks are essential.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil level dropping between services
  • Light blue smoke
  • Low oil warning
  • Fouled spark plugs

What to check

Check oil level and colour, look for smoke on start-up and overrun, and ask about top-up frequency.

Where to look: Engine, valve seals and rings

Ask the seller

  • “How often does it use oil?”
  • “Any smoke on start-up?”
Electrical3

01Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

With ignition on and engine off, turn the steering wheel and verify the EPS warning light (red or orange steering wheel icon) does not illuminate.petrol2007–2019Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $750–$2,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Tanto uses a column-assist electric power steering system where the assist motor is mounted directly on the steering column inside the engine bay. The motor and its control unit are susceptible to corrosion in the motor brush assembly and connector, and to thermal fatigue in the EPS ECU. Failure results in sudden and complete loss of power assist, making the steering extremely heavy particularly at parking speeds. The system does not fail safe into partial assist — it cuts out entirely.

Symptoms to notice

  • EPS warning light (steering wheel icon) illuminates on the instrument cluster, often intermittently at first
  • Steering effort suddenly becomes very heavy as if no power assistance is present, especially at low speed or when parking
  • Steering assist cuts in and out as engine temperature or battery voltage fluctuates
  • Slight burning smell from the steering column area during a failed assist attempt under heavy steering load

What to check

  1. With ignition on and engine off, turn the steering wheel and verify the EPS warning light (red or orange steering wheel icon) does not illuminate.
  2. Inspect the EPS motor connector for corrosion or spread pins.
  3. Check battery voltage under load — low voltage causes EPS to temporarily cut assist and log spurious faults.
  4. Feel for any notchiness or inconsistent resistance through the full steering lock range.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: Connect an OBD-II scanner with Daihatsu-compatible software and check for EPS fault codes (C-codes in the chassis system).

Where to look: EPS assist motor clamped to the lower steering column, accessible from the engine bay near the firewall; EPS ECU typically mounted on the column bracket

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS warning light ever appeared on the dashboard?”
  • “Does the steering ever feel suddenly heavier, particularly when manoeuvring at low speed?”
  • “Has the EPS motor or EPS ECU ever been replaced or inspected?”

02Power Sliding Door Motor and Cable Failure

Operate the door switch repeatedly and listen for motor strain, grinding, or click-then-stop behaviour.petrol2007–2019Electrical
CommonElectrical $550–$1,900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Tanto's power sliding door system uses an electric motor driving a steel cable through a pulley assembly to open and close the rear sliding doors. The motor armature brushes wear with age and the cable frays at the drum or guide pulleys, particularly in wet climates. Motor thermal cutout trips can cause intermittent failure; complete cable failure jams the door mid-travel. The LA600S/LA610S generation introduced larger doors with higher motor loads, increasing failure frequency.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door fails to complete its full opening or closing travel and stops mid-way with a click from the motor protection circuit
  • Grinding or cable-snapping sound from the B-pillar or door sill area during door operation
  • Door operates correctly manually but not electrically, or vice versa intermittently
  • Door warning light on instrument cluster remains illuminated with door fully closed

What to check

  1. Operate the door switch repeatedly and listen for motor strain, grinding, or click-then-stop behaviour.
  2. Check the motor drive unit for corrosion at the electrical connector.
  3. Inspect the cable drum for frayed wire ends.
  4. Test the manual override — if the door is difficult to slide manually even when the system is off, the cable has jammed in the mechanism.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the lower sill trim to inspect the cable for fraying, kinking, or derailment from guide pulleys.

Where to look: Power sliding door motor located behind the B-pillar trim panel; cable runs through the door lower sill channel and over guide pulleys at the front and rear of the door aperture

Ask the seller

  • “Do both power sliding doors open and close fully without hesitation on every attempt?”
  • “Has the sliding door motor or cable ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Does the door warning light on the dash ever illuminate with the doors closed?”

03Power sliding door cable and motor failure

Cycle the power sliding door several times, listening for grinding and checking it opens and closes fully without jamming.petrol2003 onwardElectrical
CommonElectrical $300–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Tanto's power sliding door mechanism suffers cable fraying, motor wear and roller/track wear, leaving the door slow, noisy, jamming or refusing to open or close automatically. Debris in the track worsens it. Repairs involve dismantling the door and sourcing kei-specific parts.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power sliding door jams or stops
  • Grinding or clicking from door
  • Door will not auto-close
  • Slow or noisy operation

What to check

Cycle the power sliding door several times, listening for grinding and checking it opens and closes fully without jamming.

Where to look: Power sliding door mechanism and track

Ask the seller

  • “Does the power sliding door work reliably?”
  • “Any grinding or jamming?”
  • “Has the motor or cable been replaced?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Separation

Inspect the stud taper and nut for corrosion.petrol2007–2013Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $380–$850 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The pressed-in front lower arm ball joint on L375S/L385S generation Tanto vehicles is prone to stud corrosion and ball joint boot failure allowing grease loss. The degraded joint can separate under load, causing sudden loss of front wheel steering and camber geometry. Daihatsu issued a recall in Japan (campaign R20110003) covering affected vehicles due to the safety-critical nature of this failure.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps or during low-speed cornering
  • Visible inward lean of the front wheel (negative camber change) indicating joint has partially separated
  • Steering pull to one side that worsens when the ball joint is under load during cornering
  • Grease residue on the lower arm or wheel arch liner from a failed ball joint boot

What to check

Inspect the stud taper and nut for corrosion. Check for pitting or rust on the ball joint housing itself. Also inspect while a second person turns the steering lock to lock to feel for roughness or binding. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise the front of the vehicle and inspect the ball joint rubber boot for cracking, tearing, or grease ejection. Using a pry bar under the lower arm, lever upward while watching for vertical play in the ball joint stud — any visible movement indicates wear beyond serviceable limits.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, ball joint at the outboard end connecting to the front hub carrier, both left and right sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has this vehicle been checked against or had the Daihatsu ball joint recall (R20110003) carried out?”
  • “Are there any clunking or knocking sounds from the front suspension over rough ground?”
  • “When were the front ball joints last inspected?”

02Sill and underbody rust on NZ imports

Probe the sills, floor edges and suspension mounts for rust and check the underbody for road-salt corrosion on ex-Japan cars.petrol2003 onwardBody & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $400–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Tanto imports can develop rust in the sills, floor edges and suspension mounting areas, particularly examples from snowy Japanese regions using road salt, then worsened by NZ coastal use. Sill rust is a structural WoF concern. The tall boxy body also traps moisture in lower seams.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling paint on sills
  • Rust at floor edges
  • Corrosion near suspension mounts
  • Scale under lower body seams

What to check

Probe the sills, floor edges and suspension mounts for rust and check the underbody for road-salt corrosion on ex-Japan cars.

Where to look: Sills, floor edges, suspension mounts

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Any rust in the sills or underbody?”
  • “Is it an ex-snow-region import?”
  • “Does it hold a current WoF?”

03Rear Torsion Beam Pivot Bush Deterioration

Check rear tyre wear pattern for inside or outside edge wear indicating toe or camber shift.petrol2007–2019Suspension
CommonSuspension $450–$1,100 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Tanto uses a torsion beam rear axle with rubber pivot bushes at each forward mounting point on the body. These bushes deteriorate with age and exposure to road salt, developing cracks, voids, and compression set. Failed bushes allow the rear axle beam to move rearward and laterally under braking and cornering loads, causing rear wheel alignment to shift outside specification, resulting in premature rear tyre wear and reduced directional stability. New Zealand's wet road conditions and road salt in coastal areas accelerate this degradation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or thudding sound from the rear of the vehicle when traversing speed bumps or sharp dips at low speed
  • Rear tyre inner or outer edge wearing significantly faster than the rest of the tread, indicating alignment shift
  • Vehicle wanders or requires constant steering correction on straight roads at motorway speeds
  • Rear end feels loose or vague during direction changes compared to when the vehicle was new

What to check

Check rear tyre wear pattern for inside or outside edge wear indicating toe or camber shift. On the road, note if the rear end wanders or tramlines on straight roads, and listen for clunking over speed bumps from the rear axle area. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise the rear of the vehicle and inspect the torsion beam forward mounting bushes visually for cracking, splitting, or rubber separation from the metal sleeve. Apply a pry bar between the axle beam and body bracket — any lateral or longitudinal movement indicates bush failure.

Where to look: Rear torsion beam axle, rubber pivot bushes at the two forward chassis mounting points, visible under the rear of the vehicle behind the rear wheels

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear suspension bushes ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the rear over bumps or uneven road surfaces?”
  • “Has the vehicle had a recent wheel alignment check, and were the rear angles within specification?”

Daihatsu Tanto faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Daihatsu Tanto’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Daihatsu models

Daihatsu Tanto buyer questions

Is the Daihatsu Tanto reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 11 documented faults for the Daihatsu Tanto, the recurring problem areas are engine, suspension, and transmission. A Daihatsu Tanto with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Daihatsu Tanto?

We've catalogued 11 known faults for the Daihatsu Tanto, covering engine, suspension, and transmission. All 11 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Daihatsu Tanto?

Most single repairs on the Daihatsu Tanto fall between $550–$2,400 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 11 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Daihatsu Tanto?

Yes. A Daihatsu Tanto inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.