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Mazda1989–2015 Critical issues documented

Mazda MX-5: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Mazda MX-5 (1989–2015) in New Zealand? We've documented 26 known faults for this model spanning body & rust, engine, suspension, and electrical. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Mazda MX-5

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

26

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$450–$1,500

Typical repair

6

Systems covered

Which Mazda MX-5 are you looking at?

5 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Mazda MX-5

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Mazda MX-5Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the MX-5 came with 5, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Mazda MX-5

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mazda MX-5 before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Physically press on both inner sills behind the rear wheels with a gloved hand — any flex or give indicates structural rust.

    See why

    Rear Wheel Arch Inner Sill Rust Perforation

    The NB-generation MX-5 (1998-2005) has a structural weak point at the junction of the rear wheel arch inner liner and the sill/rocker panel. This area traps road debris, moisture, and salt — particularly relevant to NZ/AU coastal environments. The inner sill section behind the rear wheel arch is formed from thin-gauge steel with inadequate factory rustproofing on early production cars. Water infiltrates via the wheel arch lip joint, wicks along the inner sill cavity, and initiates corrosion from the inside outward. By the time surface bubbling is visible at the outer sill or arch lip, through-perforation of the inner structural sill is already occurring. Because the sill forms part of the NB's unibody structural stiffness (critical given the absence of a B-pillar in a convertible), rust here compromises both chassis rigidity and occupant safety. Repair requires removal of the inner arch liner, wire-brushing, acid treatment, cutting of perforated metal, fabrication of new sill sections, and cavity wax injection — a significant panel shop undertaking.

    What you would notice

    • Bubbling paint or surface rust at rear wheel arch lip
    • Visible perforation or flaking metal at inner sill behind rear wheels
    • Soft or spongy feel when pressing on sill area
    • Musty smell inside cabin from moisture trapped in sill
    • Chassis flex or cowl shake more pronounced than expected

    Typically $1,800–$6,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Confirm belt replacement date and odometer reading from service history.

    See why

    B6/BP Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)

    The 1.6L B6-ZE and 1.8L BP-ZE engines are interference designs with a rubber timing belt requiring replacement every 80,000 km. Belt failure causes catastrophic piston-to-valve contact, destroying the cylinder head. Many NZ/AU import examples arrive with no service history and unknown belt age, making undocumented belts a critical risk on any purchase.

    What you would notice

    • Engine cranks but will not start (post-failure)
    • Ticking or slapping noise from front of engine near timing cover
    • Visible belt fraying or cracking if timing cover removed
    • Loss of power or misfires if belt has skipped a tooth

    Typically $350–$700 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check VIN against Mazda recall/TSB records for the oil pump issue.

    See why

    PE-VPS 2.0L Oil Pump Failure at High RPM (Early Production)

    Early ND MX-5 models fitted with the 2.0L PE-VPS engine (predominantly 2015-2018 production) were subject to oil pump rotor wear causing oil pressure loss at high engine speeds. Mazda issued a technical investigation and associated TSB following owner-reported oil pressure warnings and engine damage at sustained high RPM. Several markets received extended warranty coverage. This is a known early-production issue; later engines have revised pump components.

    What you would notice

    • Oil pressure warning light illuminating at high RPM (above 6,000 rpm)
    • Engine knocking or tapping at high speed under load
    • Low oil pressure reading on gauge at high engine speeds
    • Engine damage or seizure in severe undetected cases

    Typically $1,800–$6,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect ball joint boots for cracking, splits, or grease ejection.

    See why

    Front Lower Ball Joint Wear with Lowered Springs

    The ND MX-5 front lower control arm ball joints are designed to operate within a specific angular range corresponding to the factory ride height. When aftermarket lowering springs reduce static ride height by 25-40 mm, the ball joint operates at a permanently increased angle that generates higher lateral loading than the joint was rated for. This accelerates wear of the ball joint bearing socket and boots, leading to looseness detectable within 30,000-50,000 km of fitment. A failed ball joint can separate under load, causing immediate loss of steering control. Documented in the NZ and AU enthusiast community on modified cars.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over road imperfections
    • Steering shimmy or vibration felt through the wheel at highway speed
    • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front axle
    • Vague or wandering steering feel on straight roads
    • Failed WOF or roadworthy inspection on ball joint play test

    Typically $420–$1,150 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Remove or fold back rear arch liners and inspect the inner arch panel and seam thoroughly.

    See why

    Rear Wheel Arch Rust (NA/NB/NC)

    Rear wheel arches develop rust from behind the arch liner, progressing outward through the outer panel. On NA and NB generations the problem is severe and structural if left; NC cars are less affected but still develop cosmetic-to-structural arch rust. NZ coastal and humid conditions accelerate progression. Rust often hides under plastic arch liners and is missed at casual inspection.

    What you would notice

    • Bubbling or blistering paint at the top rear of each wheel arch
    • Visible rust perforation inside arch when liner is removed
    • Flaking paint along the arch lip
    • Soft or crumbling metal when pressed at arch seam

    Typically $800–$3,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Crouch beside each door and examine the full sill length.

    See why

    Door Sill Rust (Inside-Out Corrosion)

    NA and NB door sills rust from the inside out due to water ingress through drainage blockages and poor original sealing. The rust is hidden inside the sill cavity and only becomes visible once it has perforated the outer skin. Sills are a structural component in a convertible — rot here compromises chassis rigidity. Very common on NZ-registered examples over 15 years old and on JDM imports.

    What you would notice

    • Paint bubbling along the lower door sill edge
    • Rust-coloured water draining from sill drainage holes
    • Soft or holed outer sill skin detectable by gentle pressing
    • Visible perforations or holes along sill underside

    Typically $600–$2,800 to put right.

See all 26 documented issuesEverything researched for the Mazda MX-5, including 4 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Mazda MX-5 has — 26Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling12

01PE-VPS 2.0L Oil Pump Failure at High RPM (Early Production)

Check VIN against Mazda recall/TSB records for the oil pump issue.petrol2015 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$6,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Early ND MX-5 models fitted with the 2.0L PE-VPS engine (predominantly 2015-2018 production) were subject to oil pump rotor wear causing oil pressure loss at high engine speeds. Mazda issued a technical investigation and associated TSB following owner-reported oil pressure warnings and engine damage at sustained high RPM. Several markets received extended warranty coverage. This is a known early-production issue; later engines have revised pump components.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil pressure warning light illuminating at high RPM (above 6,000 rpm)
  • Engine knocking or tapping at high speed under load
  • Low oil pressure reading on gauge at high engine speeds
  • Engine damage or seizure in severe undetected cases

What to check

  1. Check VIN against Mazda recall/TSB records for the oil pump issue.
  2. Inspect for any history of oil pressure warnings in service records.
  3. On a test drive, monitor for any warning lights at sustained high RPM.
  4. Verify oil pump has been replaced or engine has revised production-spec pump.

Where to look: Oil pump at bottom-front of engine, driven off crankshaft

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been subject to the oil pump TSB or recall?”
  • “Has the oil pump been inspected or replaced by a dealer?”
  • “Has any oil pressure warning light appeared during driving?”

02B6/BP Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)

Confirm belt replacement date and odometer reading from service history.petrol1989–2005Engine
CommonEngine $350–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1.6L B6-ZE and 1.8L BP-ZE engines are interference designs with a rubber timing belt requiring replacement every 80,000 km. Belt failure causes catastrophic piston-to-valve contact, destroying the cylinder head. Many NZ/AU import examples arrive with no service history and unknown belt age, making undocumented belts a critical risk on any purchase.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine cranks but will not start (post-failure)
  • Ticking or slapping noise from front of engine near timing cover
  • Visible belt fraying or cracking if timing cover removed
  • Loss of power or misfires if belt has skipped a tooth

What to check

  1. Confirm belt replacement date and odometer reading from service history.
  2. If undocumented, budget for immediate replacement.
  3. Inspect timing cover for oil leaks from cam and crank seals which accelerate belt degradation.

Where to look: Front of engine, behind plastic timing cover on driver's side

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced and at what mileage?”
  • “Do you have receipts or service records for the belt change?”
  • “Have the cam seals, crank seal, and water pump been replaced at the same time?”

03Rear differential whine / failure (notably ND2 2.0)

Listen for a rear whine at low speed and during slow manoeuvres, and on a quiet road note whether it builds with speed and changes on/off throttle.petrol2015 onwardTransmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,500–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Some ND owners, particularly on the 2.0 ND2, report a whining rear differential at low speed and a handful of outright diff failures. A quiet whine may be nothing, but a loud or growing noise points to diff wear and a costly repair. Because it can appear even on relatively low-mileage cars, it is worth listening for specifically.

Symptoms to notice

  • Whine from the rear at low speed / car-park manoeuvres
  • Noise rising with speed
  • Clunk from the drivetrain

What to check

  1. Listen for a rear whine at low speed and during slow manoeuvres, and on a quiet road note whether it builds with speed and changes on/off throttle.
  2. Ask whether the diff has ever been noisy, serviced or replaced under warranty.

Where to look: Rear differential

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any whine or clunk from the rear diff?”
  • “Has the differential been replaced or repaired?”

04AW6A-EL Torque Converter Clutch Judder at Cruise

Drive at a steady 70-90 km/h with very light throttle and feel for a cyclical drivetrain vibration or judder.petrol2005–2015Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $280–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 6-speed AW6A-EL automatic transmission fitted to NC MX-5 models develops torque converter clutch shudder at light throttle cruise conditions, typically between 60 and 100 km/h. As ATF degrades or becomes contaminated, the torque converter clutch friction material loses consistent engagement and begins to slip and grab cyclically, transmitting a rapid vibration through the drivetrain and cabin floor. Early cases respond to an ATF drain-and-fill using Mazda-specified fluid with friction modifier; advanced wear requires torque converter replacement.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Vibration or judder felt through the floor and seat at light throttle cruise between 60-100 km/h
  • Shudder disappears under hard acceleration or when coasting
  • ATF may appear dark brown or have a burned odour
  • Vibration may come and go with ambient temperature

What to check

  1. Drive at a steady 70-90 km/h with very light throttle and feel for a cyclical drivetrain vibration or judder.
  2. Check ATF colour and smell via drain plug or dipstick.
  3. Confirm ATF service history and interval.
  4. If fluid is dark and shudder is present, a fluid change is the first diagnostic step.

Where to look: Automatic transmission, torque converter clutch

Parts involved: Torque converter, Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid ever been changed, and with what fluid?”
  • “Is there any vibration felt when cruising at highway speed with light throttle?”
  • “Has any transmission work or rebuild been carried out?”

05P5-VPS 1.5L Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

Start the engine cold and listen immediately for chain rattle.petrol2015 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ND 1.5L P5-VPS engine fitted in most NZ/AU market ND MX-5s uses a timing chain rather than a belt, but the hydraulic chain tensioner can rattle on cold start when oil pressure is slow to build. Rattle that persists beyond a few seconds or recurs when warm indicates tensioner or chain wear. Extended low-oil or infrequent oil changes accelerate wear. If left unaddressed, a stretched chain can jump and cause valve damage.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clattering from engine on cold start, usually clearing within seconds
  • Rattle persisting beyond 5-10 seconds on cold start
  • Rattle returning when engine is warm or under load
  • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes

What to check

Start the engine cold and listen immediately for chain rattle. Note duration. Verify oil level and condition. Review service history for oil change frequency. A warm-restart rattle is more concerning than a brief cold-start tick.

Where to look: Timing chain and tensioner on front of engine inside timing cover

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine rattle on cold start?”
  • “How regularly has the oil been changed?”
  • “Has the timing chain or tensioner been inspected?”

06Reverse Inhibitor Shift Fork Wear

Any grinding, excessive resistance, or failure to engage cleanly indicates inhibitor/fork wear.petrol1998–2005Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NB MX-5 uses a Mazda J-type 5-speed manual gearbox with a reverse inhibitor mechanism designed to prevent accidental engagement of reverse from fifth gear — both gears are in the same gate plane on the NB shifter. The inhibitor consists of a spring-loaded fork and collar that must be pressed down (on the gear lever) before reverse can be selected. Over time, the shift fork inside the gearbox that interfaces with this mechanism develops wear at its contact surfaces due to the lateral load applied during repeated reverse engagement attempts, particularly when drivers do not fully depress the collar before pushing into reverse. The worn fork loses precise location, causing difficulty engaging reverse, grinding on reverse engagement, and in advanced wear cases, the reverse gear not locking in correctly (popping out of reverse under load). The repair requires gearbox removal and disassembly to replace the shift fork and potentially the reverse idler gear if scoring has occurred. This is a well-documented NB-specific failure distinct from the NA gearbox design.

Symptoms to notice

  • Difficulty or refusal to engage reverse gear
  • Grinding noise when attempting to select reverse
  • Reverse gear pops out under load or on inclines
  • Reverse engagement requires excessive force or multiple attempts
  • Inhibitor collar feels notchy or loose compared to new

What to check

Any grinding, excessive resistance, or failure to engage cleanly indicates inhibitor/fork wear. Test reverse under load on an incline. Check for metallic particles in the gearbox oil if a drain inspection is possible. If a workshop inspection is possible: With engine running at idle and clutch fully depressed, attempt to select reverse gear by pressing the collar and pushing the lever into the reverse gate.

Where to look: Gearbox — J-type 5-speed unit, reverse inhibitor shift fork and collar assembly internal to gearbox casing

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car engage reverse smoothly without grinding or requiring multiple attempts?”
  • “Has the gearbox ever been rebuilt or the reverse inhibitor mechanism serviced?”
  • “When was the gearbox oil last changed, and what specification was used?”
  • “Has the car been used in situations where reverse is engaged frequently (parking, track use)?”

07LF-VE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold Rattle

Cold-start the engine from fully cold (overnight) and listen at the front of the engine for rattling in the first 10-20 seconds.petrol2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08P5-VPS SKYACTIV-G Intake Valve Carbon Buildup

Confirm mileage and ask whether an intake cleaning service has been performed.petrol2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09LF-VE VVTS Oil Control Solenoid Blockage

Ask for service history to verify oil change frequency.petrol2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10Rear differential whine

On a quiet stretch, listen for a rear whine that builds with speed and changes as you lift on and off the throttle (distinct from tyre roar).petrol2005–2015Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $600–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

A number of NC owners report a whining rear differential, sometimes traced to gear-wear or manufacturing lapping issues, that grows louder with speed. A light whine can be lived with, but a loud or worsening one signals diff wear and an eventual rebuild or replacement. Not a safety issue, but a bargaining point and something to monitor.

Symptoms to notice

  • Whine from the rear that rises with speed
  • Noise changing on/off throttle
  • Drone at cruise

What to check

On a quiet stretch, listen for a rear whine that builds with speed and changes as you lift on and off the throttle (distinct from tyre roar). Ask whether the diff has been noisy or serviced.

Where to look: Rear differential

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any whine from the rear diff?”
  • “Has the differential been serviced or replaced?”

11VVT actuator / timing rattle on warm start (2.0 LF-VE)

Start it cold and, ideally, again warm after a short stop, listening for a rattle from the front of the engine.petrol2005–2015Engine
CommonEngine $300–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NC 2.0 is known for a rattle on a warm restart, generally traced to the VVT actuator or timing-chain tensioner not holding pressure. Usually it is the actuator and lives with it for years, but a loud, persistent rattle should be checked to rule out chain or tensioner wear, which is a bigger job. Ask whether it has been investigated.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle for a second or two on a warm restart
  • Top-end tick at idle
  • Noise on start after a short stop

What to check

  1. Start it cold and, ideally, again warm after a short stop, listening for a rattle from the front of the engine.
  2. A brief rattle is common on the NC; a long, harsh one warrants a closer look.
  3. Ask if the cause has been diagnosed.

Where to look: VVT actuator / timing-chain tensioner at the front of the engine

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does it rattle on a warm restart?”
  • “Has the VVT actuator or timing chain been looked at?”

12VVT actuator rattle on the 1.8 VVT engine

Start the car from cold and listen for a rattle from the front top of the engine - a second or two is common, sustained noise is worth checking.petrol2001–2005Engine
OccasionalEngine $300–$1,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The later NB 1.8 (Mk2.5) with variable valve timing can develop a rattle from the VVT actuator, typically a brief ticking on start-up when the lock pin or its bore wears. A short rattle is usually just the actuator and not urgent, but a loud or persistent one warrants investigation to rule out the timing components. It is a known trait of this engine.

Symptoms to notice

  • Brief ticking/rattle on start-up
  • Light top-end tick at idle
  • Noise easing once warm

What to check

  1. Start the car from cold and listen for a rattle from the front top of the engine - a second or two is common, sustained noise is worth checking.
  2. Confirm it's the 1.8 VVT engine and ask about any timing/VVT work.

Where to look: VVT actuator at the front of the 1.8 cylinder head

Ask the seller

  • “Does it rattle on cold start?”
  • “Has any VVT or timing work been done?”
Electrical1

01Power Retractable Hardtop (PRHT) Motor and Mechanism Failure

Operate the PRHT through at least two full open/close cycles.petrol2005–2015Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $800–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NC PRHT (Power Retractable Hardtop) is a complex folding metal roof mechanism driven by electric motors and hydraulic actuators. Motors fail, hydraulic seals weep, and limit switches drift, causing the roof to stop mid-cycle, fail to fully close, or throw error codes preventing operation. Repair is labour-intensive due to tight packaging. The PRHT-equipped NC commands a premium but a faulty roof costs significantly more to fix than a soft-top.

Symptoms to notice

  • Roof stops partway through open or close cycle
  • Warning light or error code on dashboard during roof operation
  • Unusual grinding or clicking noise from roof mechanism
  • Roof that will not fully latch in the closed position
  • Roof that requires manual override to complete cycle

What to check

  1. Operate the PRHT through at least two full open/close cycles.
  2. Listen for abnormal motor or mechanical noise.
  3. Confirm the roof latches fully and all warning lights extinguish.
  4. Check for hydraulic fluid weeps on the folding mechanism.

Where to look: Folding hardtop mechanism in boot/trunk area and B-pillar latching points

Ask the seller

  • “Does the hardtop open and close without stopping or errors?”
  • “Has the PRHT motor or any actuator been repaired or replaced?”
  • “Is there any warning light during roof operation?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior13

01Rear Wheel Arch Inner Sill Rust Perforation

Physically press on both inner sills behind the rear wheels with a gloved hand — any flex or give indicates structural rust.petrol1998–2005Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $1,800–$6,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NB-generation MX-5 (1998-2005) has a structural weak point at the junction of the rear wheel arch inner liner and the sill/rocker panel. This area traps road debris, moisture, and salt — particularly relevant to NZ/AU coastal environments. The inner sill section behind the rear wheel arch is formed from thin-gauge steel with inadequate factory rustproofing on early production cars. Water infiltrates via the wheel arch lip joint, wicks along the inner sill cavity, and initiates corrosion from the inside outward. By the time surface bubbling is visible at the outer sill or arch lip, through-perforation of the inner structural sill is already occurring. Because the sill forms part of the NB's unibody structural stiffness (critical given the absence of a B-pillar in a convertible), rust here compromises both chassis rigidity and occupant safety. Repair requires removal of the inner arch liner, wire-brushing, acid treatment, cutting of perforated metal, fabrication of new sill sections, and cavity wax injection — a significant panel shop undertaking.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling paint or surface rust at rear wheel arch lip
  • Visible perforation or flaking metal at inner sill behind rear wheels
  • Soft or spongy feel when pressing on sill area
  • Musty smell inside cabin from moisture trapped in sill
  • Chassis flex or cowl shake more pronounced than expected

What to check

  1. Physically press on both inner sills behind the rear wheels with a gloved hand — any flex or give indicates structural rust.
  2. Use a torch to inspect behind the rear wheel arch liners if removable.
  3. Look for rust staining on the underside sill seam.
  4. Inspect the floor of the boot for rust ingress from the same water pathway.
  5. Check that the chassis rails underneath are solid.

Where to look: Rear wheel arch — inner sill/rocker panel junction, both driver and passenger sides; also inspect the floor pan just inboard of the rear wheel wells

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car had any rust treatment, cavity wax injection, or panel repairs to the sills or wheel arches?”
  • “Has the car spent time near the coast or in areas with road salt or regular gravel road use?”
  • “Has an independent panel shop inspected the sills and arches?”
  • “Are the inner arch liners original and undisturbed, or have they been removed for rust repair?”

02Front Lower Ball Joint Wear with Lowered Springs

Inspect ball joint boots for cracking, splits, or grease ejection.petrol2015 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $420–$1,150 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ND MX-5 front lower control arm ball joints are designed to operate within a specific angular range corresponding to the factory ride height. When aftermarket lowering springs reduce static ride height by 25-40 mm, the ball joint operates at a permanently increased angle that generates higher lateral loading than the joint was rated for. This accelerates wear of the ball joint bearing socket and boots, leading to looseness detectable within 30,000-50,000 km of fitment. A failed ball joint can separate under load, causing immediate loss of steering control. Documented in the NZ and AU enthusiast community on modified cars.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over road imperfections
  • Steering shimmy or vibration felt through the wheel at highway speed
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front axle
  • Vague or wandering steering feel on straight roads
  • Failed WOF or roadworthy inspection on ball joint play test

What to check

  1. Inspect ball joint boots for cracking, splits, or grease ejection.
  2. Confirm whether aftermarket lowering springs or a coilover kit is fitted, as this is the primary accelerating factor.
  3. Check for shimmy on a highway test drive.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grip each front tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock vigorously to detect lower ball joint play.

Where to look: Front lower control arm ball joints, left and right

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have aftermarket lowering springs or coilovers been fitted?”
  • “Have the front lower ball joints been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front end over bumps or sharp corners?”

03Rear Wheel Arch Rust (NA/NB/NC)

Remove or fold back rear arch liners and inspect the inner arch panel and seam thoroughly.petrol1989–2015Body & Rust
Very commonBody & Rust $800–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Rear wheel arches develop rust from behind the arch liner, progressing outward through the outer panel. On NA and NB generations the problem is severe and structural if left; NC cars are less affected but still develop cosmetic-to-structural arch rust. NZ coastal and humid conditions accelerate progression. Rust often hides under plastic arch liners and is missed at casual inspection.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling or blistering paint at the top rear of each wheel arch
  • Visible rust perforation inside arch when liner is removed
  • Flaking paint along the arch lip
  • Soft or crumbling metal when pressed at arch seam

What to check

Remove or fold back rear arch liners and inspect the inner arch panel and seam thoroughly. Check both sides. Probe any paint bubbles with a blunt tool. Look for filler or respray evidence which may hide prior repair.

Where to look: Rear quarter panel at wheel arch opening, inner face behind plastic liner

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear arches ever been repaired or resprayed?”
  • “Has the car been stored outside near the coast?”
  • “Have the arch liners been removed and resealed recently?”

04Rusting rear sills / rocker panels (rots from the inside out)

Press and inspect the sills/rockers just in front of the rear wheels, inside and out, and lift the carpets to check for damp and rust in the floor.petrol2000–2005Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $800–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NB MX-5 is notorious for rust in the rear sills and rocker panels just ahead of the rear wheels, and it corrodes from the inside out, so by the time you see bubbles the metal underneath is usually gone. Blocked soft-top drains and cracked rain rails let water pool and feed it. This is structural rust that can fail a WoF and is costly to repair properly, so it is the number-one check on an NB.

Symptoms to notice

  • Paint bubbling on the sills ahead of the rear wheels
  • Crunchy/soft metal when pressed
  • Damp carpets in the footwells

What to check

  1. Press and inspect the sills/rockers just in front of the rear wheels, inside and out, and lift the carpets to check for damp and rust in the floor.
  2. Check the soft-top drains are clear.
  3. Any softness or bubbling means significant hidden rot.

Where to look: Rear sills / rocker panels ahead of the rear wheels; floor pans

Parts involved: Chassis and structural rust.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any rust repair or welding been done to the sills?”
  • “Are the soft-top drains clear and the carpets dry?”

05Door Sill Rust (Inside-Out Corrosion)

Crouch beside each door and examine the full sill length.petrol1989–2005Body & Rust
Very commonBody & Rust $600–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

NA and NB door sills rust from the inside out due to water ingress through drainage blockages and poor original sealing. The rust is hidden inside the sill cavity and only becomes visible once it has perforated the outer skin. Sills are a structural component in a convertible — rot here compromises chassis rigidity. Very common on NZ-registered examples over 15 years old and on JDM imports.

Symptoms to notice

  • Paint bubbling along the lower door sill edge
  • Rust-coloured water draining from sill drainage holes
  • Soft or holed outer sill skin detectable by gentle pressing
  • Visible perforations or holes along sill underside

What to check

Crouch beside each door and examine the full sill length. Press along the lower face and underside for soft spots. Inspect the drain holes at the sill ends for blockage or rust staining. If a workshop inspection is possible: A borescope inside the sill drain hole reveals internal condition.

Where to look: Outer door sill panels (rocker panels) on both sides between front and rear wheels

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the sills been repaired or have any body filler applied?”
  • “Are the sill drain holes clear?”
  • “Has underbody rustproofing been applied?”

06Front Lower Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the boot of the ball joint for cracks or grease leaks.petrol2005–2015Suspension
CommonSuspension $550–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NC front lower control arm ball joints wear with age and road use, producing clunking over bumps and imprecise steering. On the NC the ball joint is integral to the lower arm, meaning the entire arm must be replaced rather than just the joint. Worn ball joints affect wheel alignment and, if severely worn, can separate causing loss of steering control. Common on NZ-registered examples with more than 100,000 km.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps or during parking manoeuvres
  • Vague or imprecise steering feel
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front axle
  • Visible play in ball joint when wheel is rocked at 6 and 12 o'clock on hoist

What to check

  1. Inspect the boot of the ball joint for cracks or grease leaks.
  2. Note any clunking during a test drive over rough surfaces.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, grasp each front wheel and check for vertical play (6 and 12 o'clock).

Where to look: Front lower control arm, ball joint at the outer end on each side

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arms or ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front suspension?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment done?”

07Rear Hub Bearing Failure

Spin each rear wheel by hand and listen for roughness or growling.petrol1989–2005Suspension
CommonSuspension $450–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

NA and NB rear hub bearings wear prematurely, particularly on cars used for spirited driving or track days. Bearings are not serviceable independently on the NA; the entire hub assembly requires replacement. Failure causes handling vagueness and, if left, can lead to wheel wobble at speed or bearing seizure. Common on high-mileage examples and those used for motorsport.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rumbling or growling noise from rear that changes with speed
  • Noise increases on one side during cornering (load shift)
  • Vibration felt through seat at highway speed
  • Excessive play when wheel is rocked at 9 and 3 o'clock

What to check

Spin each rear wheel by hand and listen for roughness or growling. Note any lateral play at the hub. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle on a hoist, grasp each rear wheel and check for play.

Where to look: Rear wheel hub assemblies, both sides

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been used on track days or in motorsport?”
  • “When were the rear wheel bearings last inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any humming or vibration at highway speed?”

08Soft-Top Latch Wear Causing Incomplete Roof Seal

Operate both latch handles and confirm even, positive engagement with a definite locking feel.petrol2015 onwardBody & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $320–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ND soft-top convertible roof uses twin over-centre latch mechanisms to clamp the hood against the windscreen header rail and compress the weatherstripping seal. With repeated operation the latch pawls, pivot pins, and engagement surfaces wear, causing the latches to feel vague and fail to achieve full clamping force. When the latch does not fully engage, the weatherstrip cannot compress adequately and water ingress occurs at the roof corners and along the header. Secondary effects include persistent wind noise at highway speed and potential water damage to interior trim and footwell wiring looms.

Symptoms to notice

  • Wind noise from roof header area at speeds above 80 km/h
  • Water ingress at roof corners or along the windscreen header after rain
  • Latch handles feel loose, vague, or do not lock with a positive click
  • Roof does not sit flush and even against the windscreen header rail
  • Damp footwell carpet or interior trim after wet weather

What to check

Operate both latch handles and confirm even, positive engagement with a definite locking feel. Inspect the latch pawls and engagement pins for visible wear or slop. With the roof closed, run water from a hose over the header area while a second person observes the interior seal for ingress. Inspect weatherstripping for permanent compression set or splitting.

Where to look: Convertible roof latch mechanisms, windscreen header rail, roof weatherstripping

Ask the seller

  • “Has the roof ever leaked water into the interior?”
  • “Have the roof latches been adjusted or replaced?”
  • “Is there any wind noise from the roof at highway speed?”

09Soft-Top Frame Hinge Corrosion and Seal Failure

Open and close the soft-top several times noting stiffness, uneven operation, or binding.petrol1989–2005Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $400–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NA/NB folding soft-top frame uses steel hinges that corrode and seize, eventually cracking the frame at stress points. Corroded frames cause the roof to sit unevenly and prevent a watertight seal. Frame seal strips and the rear window plastic also harden and crack with age, leading to water ingress into the cabin and boot area. A replacement frame is expensive; repair is labour-intensive.

Symptoms to notice

  • Roof difficult or impossible to fold/unfold smoothly
  • Visible water stains on rear parcel shelf or boot carpet
  • Cracked or brittle rear window plastic
  • Wind noise at highway speed with roof raised
  • Visible rust or cracking at frame pivot points

What to check

  1. Open and close the soft-top several times noting stiffness, uneven operation, or binding.
  2. Inspect frame hinges for rust or cracking.
  3. Check boot carpet for damp.
  4. Inspect all perimeter seals for hardening or gaps.

Where to look: Convertible roof frame hinges at B-pillar top, perimeter seals, and rear window

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the soft-top hood last replaced?”
  • “Does the roof seal fully without any leaks?”
  • “Has the car ever had wet carpet or boot?”

10Soft-top wear - latches, cracked rear window and rain rails

Raise and lower the roof, check the latches catch firmly and the fabric and rear window are sound.petrol2000–2005Interior
CommonInterior $400–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NB's fabric roof wears with age: the latches stop catching properly, the fabric cracks and tears, and the plastic rain rails behind can crack and let water into the boot and rear deck, which then feeds rust. A tired top is a comfort and water-ingress issue as much as cosmetic. A replacement top plus fitting isn't cheap, so factor it in.

Symptoms to notice

  • Roof latches won't grip / roof lifts at speed
  • Cracks or tears in the fabric or rear window
  • Water in the boot or footwells after rain

What to check

  1. Raise and lower the roof, check the latches catch firmly and the fabric and rear window are sound.
  2. Look for water staining in the boot and behind the seats.
  3. Confirm the rain rails aren't cracked.

Where to look: Soft-top fabric, latches, rear window and rain rails

Ask the seller

  • “Has the soft top or its rain rails been replaced?”
  • “Does any water get into the boot or cabin?”

11Power-steering rack leaks (NC hydraulic rack)

Check the power-steering fluid level and look under the front for drips.petrol2005–2015Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The NC uses a hydraulic power-steering rack that commonly starts weeping fluid from its seals as mileage climbs past roughly 130,000km, which can lead to heavier steering and, if run dry, pump wear. It is a slow leak rather than a sudden failure, but a wet rack means a repair or replacement is coming. Grinding or notchy steering can also point to a worn rack pinion bearing.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power-steering fluid drips or low reservoir
  • Steering feeling heavier or notchy
  • Grinding felt through the wheel

What to check

  1. Check the power-steering fluid level and look under the front for drips.
  2. On the drive feel for even, light steering with no grinding or notchiness.
  3. Ask whether the rack has ever leaked or been replaced.

Where to look: Power-steering rack, low across the front of the car

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Is the steering rack leaking or has it been replaced?”
  • “Does the steering ever feel heavy or grindy?”

12Rear Subframe Rubber Bush Deterioration

Check for visible subframe movement when load is applied by hand.petrol2015 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $400–$1,100 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ND rear subframe is mounted on rubber bushes that degrade with age, road use, and exposure to NZ/AU conditions. Deteriorated bushes allow subframe movement under cornering and braking loads, producing clunking, handling imprecision, and accelerated tyre wear. The ND's lightweight design makes it more sensitive to bush condition than larger vehicles. Cars used for spirited driving or with any track exposure show accelerated wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from rear over bumps or under hard braking
  • Rear end feels imprecise or 'loose' during cornering
  • Uneven rear tyre wear across the contact patch
  • Alignment that will not hold after correction

What to check

  1. Check for visible subframe movement when load is applied by hand.
  2. Confirm alignment is within spec.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, inspect all four rear subframe mounting bushes for cracking, splitting, or oil contamination.

Where to look: Rear subframe mounting points, four bushes securing subframe to body

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear subframe bush condition been inspected?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the rear over bumps?”
  • “Has the car been used for track days?”

13Soft-top rubbing / contact marks on the roll hoops

Lower and raise the roof and look for rub marks or wear where the fabric meets the roll-hoop area.petrol2015 onwardInterior
CommonInterior $0–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ND's fabric roof is known to rub and leave contact/scuff marks where it folds against the roll hoops, a fault Mazda acknowledged with a service bulletin and a shim kit (or top replacement) to add clearance. Even after the fix, some rubbing can remain due to how the top folds. It is cosmetic and doesn't affect how the car drives, but it is worth knowing it's a design quirk, not damage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Scuff / contact marks on the soft top near the roll hoops
  • Slight wear line where the top folds
  • Fabric marking over time

What to check

Lower and raise the roof and look for rub marks or wear where the fabric meets the roll-hoop area. Ask whether the shim kit or a replacement top was fitted under the bulletin. Treat it as cosmetic.

Where to look: Soft-top fabric where it folds against the roll hoops

Ask the seller

  • “Was the soft-top rubbing shim kit or bulletin fix applied?”
  • “Are the contact marks getting worse?”

Mazda MX-5 faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

LF-VE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold RattleMajor · EngineLF-VE VVTS Oil Control Solenoid BlockageMajor · EngineP5-VPS SKYACTIV-G Intake Valve Carbon BuildupMajor · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mazda MX-5’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Mazda models

Mazda Mazda648 documented faultsMazda Mazda337 documented faultsMazda CX-536 documented faultsMazda Premacy21 documented faultsMazda Atenza20 documented faultsMazda Axela20 documented faults

Mazda MX-5 buyer questions

Is the Mazda MX-5 reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 26 documented faults for the Mazda MX-5, the recurring problem areas are body & rust, engine, and suspension. A Mazda MX-5 with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mazda MX-5?

We've catalogued 26 known faults for the Mazda MX-5, covering body & rust, engine, and suspension. All 26 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mazda MX-5?

Most single repairs on the Mazda MX-5 fall between $450–$1,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 26 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mazda MX-5?

Yes. A Mazda MX-5 inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.