Thinking about buying a used Mazda Premacy (1999–2018) in New Zealand? We've documented 21 known faults for this model spanning engine, suspension, transmission, and electrical. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Two are set out in full below — the rest, with the symptoms, repair costs and checks for each, are free with an account.
21
Documented faults
Critical
Most serious
$350–$800
Typical repair
8
Systems covered
Known Mazda Premacy faults
Every fault below is documented specifically for this model — researched and verified before it’s published.
01LF-VD Timing Chain Guide and Tensioner Wear
CriticalOccasionalEngine $900–$2,200 to fix
The LF-VD 2.0-litre engine uses a simplex timing chain with plastic guide rails and a hydraulic tensioner. At high mileage, typically above 150,000 km, the plastic guide material wears and cracks, and the tensioner piston loses sealing pressure — particularly if oil change intervals have been extended. The result is chain slap noise on cold start that can progress to chain skip and valve-to-piston contact if neglected. NZ-imported units frequently arrive with undisclosed mileage or unknown service histories, increasing the incidence.
Symptoms to notice
Metallic rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start, lasting more than a few seconds before quieting
Check engine light with camshaft-to-crankshaft timing correlation fault codes P0016 or P0017
What to check
Start the engine from cold and listen for a rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine that should settle within 3–5 seconds. A rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds is a red flag. Check engine oil condition and level; low or black oil accelerates guide wear. If possible, scan for camshaft position correlation fault codes (P0016, P0017). Request compression test results.
Where to look: Front of engine block, behind timing cover on left-hand side of vehicle
Ask the seller
“Does the engine make any rattling or ticking noise when first started from cold?”
“What is the oil change history, and has the timing chain or tensioner ever been inspected?”
“Has a check engine light appeared, and were any camshaft timing codes stored?”
02Sliding door faults — worn rollers, cables, latches and power-door failures
MinorCommonBody & Rust $250–$1,200 to fix
Both the CR (2005-2010) and CW (2010-2018) Premacy use rear sliding doors whose rollers, guide tracks, cables and latch assemblies wear with use. Symptoms range from stiff, graunching manual operation to doors that won't latch, stick shut in cold weather, or power doors (common on JDM imports) that stop, reverse or fail mid-travel. Worn roller/cable kits and latch or door-position sensors are the usual culprits; power-door motor/cable assemblies are the expensive end. Note the fuel-filler safety interlock limits the left door opening while the flap is open — that's normal, not a fault.
Symptoms to notice
Sliding door stiff, graunchy or jumping off its track
Door won't latch first time or pops back open
Power door stops or reverses mid-travel, or the motor whirs without moving the door
Door stuck in cold weather but fine when warm
What to check
Operate both sliding doors fully several times — manually and with the power buttons (dash, key fob and door handle) if fitted. Listen for grinding, watch for hesitation, and confirm both doors latch shut with one firm pull. Check the lower track for debris, worn rollers and kinked cables. Try the doors again after the test drive when everything has moved.
Where to look: Rear sliding doors both sides — rollers in the lower/centre tracks, cables and motors inside the doors, latch at the rear edge
Ask the seller
“Do both sliding doors open, close and latch properly every time, including the power function?”
“Have the door rollers, cables or motors ever been repaired?”
“Do the doors play up in cold weather?”
EngineCritical
EngineCritical
SuspensionMajor
TransmissionMajor
ElectricalMajor
EngineMajor
Body & RustMajor
SuspensionMajor
CoolingMajor
CoolingMajor
BrakesMajor
BrakesMajor
SuspensionMinor
SuspensionMinor
SuspensionMinor
Fluid LeaksMinor
EngineMinor
ElectricalMinor
EngineMinor
19 more documented faults on the Mazda Premacy
Symptoms, what to check, where to look and what to ask the seller — for every fault above. Free with an account, no card needed. One account covers one vehicle, so make it the car you’re actually looking at.
This page covers the model. Enter the plate of the actual car you’re looking at and see its year, engine, safety rating and register flags — free, no account needed.
Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 21 documented faults for the Mazda Premacy, the recurring problem areas are engine, suspension, and transmission. A Mazda Premacy with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.
What are the most common problems with a used Mazda Premacy?
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We've catalogued 21 known faults for the Mazda Premacy, covering engine, suspension, and transmission. Two are written out in full on this page. The rest — with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each — are free once you create an account.
How much do repairs cost on a Mazda Premacy?
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Most single repairs on the Mazda Premacy fall between $350–$800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 21 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.
Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mazda Premacy?
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Yes. A Mazda Premacy inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $17.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.