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Mazda1999–2018 Critical issues documented

Mazda Premacy: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Mazda Premacy (1999–2018) in New Zealand? We've documented 21 known faults for this model spanning engine, suspension, transmission, and electrical. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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21

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$350–$800

Typical repair

17

Service milestones

Which Mazda Premacy are you looking at?

5 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Mazda Premacy

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Mazda PremacyEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Premacy came with 3, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Mazda Premacy

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mazda Premacy before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Ask specifically about timing belt change history.

    See why

    FS-DE 2.0 Timing Belt Failure Risk — Interference Engine

    The CP Premacy FS-DE 2.0 petrol is an interference engine — if the timing belt fails, the pistons contact the valves causing severe engine damage. The timing belt service interval is 100,000km or 5 years. High-km examples with no belt service history carry significant risk.

    What you would notice

    • No external symptoms until the belt fails — catastrophic engine damage on failure
    • Engine fails to start after a brief noise if the belt breaks while running

    Typically $400–$700 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Obtain timing belt records and confirm interval compliance: typically 100,000 km or 10 years for FS-ZE and LF-VE.

    See why

    Timing belt failure — interference engine (FS-ZE / LF-VE)

    The CP Premacy uses the FS-ZE 1.8 and the CW Premacy uses the LF-VE 2.0, both interference-design engines. Belt snap causes immediate valve-to-piston contact and engine write-off. NZ examples are predominantly JDM imports and arrive with Japanese service records that may not indicate interval clearly for local buyers. The belt is concealed behind covers, making visual inspection without partial disassembly impractical.

    What you would notice

    • No advance warning before catastrophic belt failure
    • Tensioner rattle or squealing may precede failure
    • Japanese-only service documentation making interval verification difficult

    Typically $400–$650 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Start the engine from cold and listen for a rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine that should settle within 3–5 seconds.

    See why

    LF-VD Timing Chain Guide and Tensioner Wear

    The LF-VD 2.0-litre engine uses a simplex timing chain with plastic guide rails and a hydraulic tensioner. At high mileage, typically above 150,000 km, the plastic guide material wears and cracks, and the tensioner piston loses sealing pressure — particularly if oil change intervals have been extended. The result is chain slap noise on cold start that can progress to chain skip and valve-to-piston contact if neglected. NZ-imported units frequently arrive with undisclosed mileage or unknown service histories, increasing the incidence.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start, lasting more than a few seconds before quieting
    • Check engine light with camshaft-to-crankshaft timing correlation fault codes P0016 or P0017

    Typically $900–$2,200 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    For hydraulic systems: inspect the steering rack boots for power steering fluid contamination and the reservoir for low fluid level.

    See why

    Electric Power Steering Rack Seal and Fluid Leak

    Premacy CR models fitted with hydraulic-assist power steering develop weeping and then active leaks at the inner rack seals and the high-pressure hose banjo fittings. The rack pinion seal fails due to age hardening of the rubber compounds, and the power steering fluid contaminates the subframe and surrounding chassis. CW models with electric power steering (EPS) develop a different failure: the motor control unit overheats or develops solder joint failures, triggering a loss-of-assist condition. Both variants generate a dashboard EPS or PS warning lamp.

    What you would notice

    • Power steering fluid seeping from the steering rack area, leaving oily residue on the subframe and inner guards
    • EPS or PS warning light illuminating on the instrument cluster, accompanied by heavy or intermittently absent steering assist

    Typically $800–$2,800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration.

    See why

    Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

    4-speed automatic torque converter develops lock-up clutch shudder under light throttle at highway cruise.

    What you would notice

    • Rhythmic vibration at highway speed under light throttle
    • Shudder clears under firm acceleration

    Typically $400–$2,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for rattle from engine front.

    See why

    L3-VE Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

    The CR Premacy L3-VE 2.3 timing chain tensioner produces a metallic rattle on cold start from oil pressure lag. Persistent rattle beyond 10 seconds indicates worn tensioner or guides.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattle from engine front on cold start
    • Rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds or at operating temperature

    Typically $600–$1,800 to put right.

Mazda Premacy service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Mazda Premacy. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Third Generation (CW) · 2010–2018 · 2.0L (PE-VPS) - SKYACTIV-G trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The accessory drive belt and tensioner should be inspected here for fraying or fatigue.

  2. 150,000 km

    Have the suspension dampers and strut mounts assessed for dampness or loss of rebound control.

  3. 200,000 km

    Proactive check of the cooling system components, specifically radiator hoses and thermostat housing.

Third Generation (CW) · 2010–2018 · 2.0L (LF-VDS) - i-stop trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Inspect the cooling system hoses and consider a transmission fluid flush.

  2. 130,000 km

    Check the engine mount condition, as vibrations can become more noticeable around this stage.

  3. 150,000 km

    Check the drive belt state and the fuel system for optimal performance.

Second Generation (CR) · 2005–2010 · 2.0L (LF-DE) - Luxury/Limited trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Confirm the auxiliary drive belts have been inspected for micro-cracking.

  2. 150,000 km

    Engine mounts might show signs of needing replacement here to maintain cabin comfort.

  3. 200,000 km

    Have a specialist verify the fuel pump and suspension bushing condition.

Second Generation (CR) · 2005–2010 · 1.8L (L8-DE) - Base model

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Prime time to confirm drive belt health and inspect the engine mounts for excessive vibration.

  2. 150,000 km

    Attention shifts to cooling system health; check the radiator hoses and fluid integrity to maintain optimal engine temperatures.

  3. 200,000 km

    Sensible point to assess alternator and starter motor functionality for long-term vehicle reliability.

First Generation (CP) · 1999–2005 · 1.8L (FP-DE) - Entry level trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Confirm the transmission fluid has been flushed, since consistent lubrication is key for this gearbox.

  2. 200,000 km

    Suspension bushings may show perishing here, affecting handling precision.

  3. 250,000 km

    Have a specialist inspect the cooling system hoses and radiator, as plastic components can become brittle over two decades.

First Generation (CP) · 1999–2005 · 2.0L (FS-ZE) - Sport/Aero trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Confirm whether the timing belt has been serviced, since the FS-ZE engine relies on this for long-term health.

  2. 200,000 km

    Have a specialist inspect the suspension bushings and engine mounts, which often reach their service life around this mark.

See all 21 documented issuesEverything researched for the Mazda Premacy, including 3 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Mazda Premacy has — 21Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling9

01LF-VD Timing Chain Guide and Tensioner Wear

Start the engine from cold and listen for a rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine that should settle within 3–5 seconds.petrol2005–2018Engine
OccasionalEngine $900–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The LF-VD 2.0-litre engine uses a simplex timing chain with plastic guide rails and a hydraulic tensioner. At high mileage, typically above 150,000 km, the plastic guide material wears and cracks, and the tensioner piston loses sealing pressure — particularly if oil change intervals have been extended. The result is chain slap noise on cold start that can progress to chain skip and valve-to-piston contact if neglected. NZ-imported units frequently arrive with undisclosed mileage or unknown service histories, increasing the incidence.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start, lasting more than a few seconds before quieting
  • Check engine light with camshaft-to-crankshaft timing correlation fault codes P0016 or P0017

What to check

  1. Start the engine from cold and listen for a rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine that should settle within 3–5 seconds.
  2. A rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds is a red flag.
  3. Check engine oil condition and level; low or black oil accelerates guide wear.
  4. If possible, scan for camshaft position correlation fault codes (P0016, P0017).
  5. Request compression test results.

Where to look: Front of engine block, behind timing cover on left-hand side of vehicle

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine make any rattling or ticking noise when first started from cold?”
  • “What is the oil change history, and has the timing chain or tensioner ever been inspected?”
  • “Has a check engine light appeared, and were any camshaft timing codes stored?”

02FS-DE 2.0 Timing Belt Failure Risk — Interference Engine

Ask specifically about timing belt change history.petrol1999–2005Engine
CommonEngine $400–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The CP Premacy FS-DE 2.0 petrol is an interference engine — if the timing belt fails, the pistons contact the valves causing severe engine damage. The timing belt service interval is 100,000km or 5 years. High-km examples with no belt service history carry significant risk.

Symptoms to notice

  • No external symptoms until the belt fails — catastrophic engine damage on failure
  • Engine fails to start after a brief noise if the belt breaks while running

What to check

  1. Ask specifically about timing belt change history.
  2. If the service history is absent or the belt is original above 100,000km, treat a belt change as essential before purchase.
  3. Inspect the belt cover for signs of previous replacement.

Where to look: FS-DE timing belt and tensioner on the front of the engine

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the fs-de 2.0 timing belt failure been inspected or repaired?”

03Timing belt failure — interference engine (FS-ZE / LF-VE)

Obtain timing belt records and confirm interval compliance: typically 100,000 km or 10 years for FS-ZE and LF-VE.petrol1999–2005EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration.1999–2010Transmission
CommonTransmission $400–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

4-speed automatic torque converter develops lock-up clutch shudder under light throttle at highway cruise.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic vibration at highway speed under light throttle
  • Shudder clears under firm acceleration

What to check

Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration. ATF condition — brown fluid indicates degraded ATF.

Where to look: Automatic transmission and torque converter

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission torque converter shudder been inspected or repaired?”

05L3-VE Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for rattle from engine front.petrol2005–2010Engine
CommonEngine $600–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The CR Premacy L3-VE 2.3 timing chain tensioner produces a metallic rattle on cold start from oil pressure lag. Persistent rattle beyond 10 seconds indicates worn tensioner or guides.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from engine front on cold start
  • Rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds or at operating temperature

What to check

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for rattle from engine front. Normal: clears in under 5 seconds.

Where to look: Front of engine, timing chain and tensioner

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the l3-ve timing chain tensioner rattle been inspected or repaired?”

06Thermostat Housing Coolant Leak

Inspect the thermostat housing and the area below it for coolant residue, white calcium deposits, or staining on the engine block.petrol2005–2018Cooling
CommonCooling $280–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The LF-VD engine's thermostat housing is a plastic-bodied unit bolted to the front of the cylinder head. The housing-to-head mating face O-ring hardens and shrinks with age and heat cycling, causing a coolant weep that progresses to an active drip. Additionally, the plastic housing body itself develops hairline cracks at the coolant outlet stub and at the mounting boss. This is a known age-related failure on high-mileage NZ imports. If left unrepaired, coolant loss can trigger overheating and cylinder head gasket damage.

An annotated photograph of an automotive engine thermostat identifying the wax capsule and both disc valves.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A double-valve engine thermostat, labelled: the wax capsule is what sticks.

Dougsim · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant puddle or dried coolant staining on the engine block below the thermostat housing, visible as white or rust-coloured residue
  • Coolant reservoir level dropping over weeks without any visible external leak, indicating a weeping seal

What to check

  1. Inspect the thermostat housing and the area below it for coolant residue, white calcium deposits, or staining on the engine block.
  2. Check the coolant reservoir level and condition.
  3. Squeeze the upper radiator hose with the engine cold to feel for system pressure that should not persist — a leaking system loses pressure overnight.
  4. Start the engine and watch the temperature gauge for slow warm-up that may indicate a thermostat stuck open alongside the housing leak.

Where to look: Front of cylinder head, driver's side of engine bay

Parts involved: Thermostat.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any coolant staining or residue visible around the thermostat housing at the front of the engine?”
  • “How often does the coolant reservoir need topping up?”
  • “Has the engine ever overheated or run hotter than normal?”

07Cooling fan control module failure causing overheating (CP)

Idle the car for 10-15 minutes (air-con on) and confirm both radiator fans cut in as the engine reaches temperature — you should hear them.petrol2000–2005CoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08Engine mount defects and wear — heavy vibration on acceleration (CR)

Accelerate briskly from a stop and feel for vibration through the floor.petrol2005–2010Engine
CommonEngine $150–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Second-generation Premacys (sold as Mazda5 in AU) built between April 2005 and September 2007 could leave the factory with the No.4 engine mounting bolt insufficiently tightened, causing significant engine shake under acceleration; workshops fix it by re-torquing or replacing the mount. Beyond that batch issue, worn engine mounts are one of the most complained-about items on this generation as they age, giving idle vibration and clunks on take-off. Mounts are cheap-to-moderate to replace at NZ independent rates.

Symptoms to notice

  • Heavy vibration from the front of the car during acceleration
  • Shaking at idle in Drive
  • Clunk when moving off or shifting R to D
  • Engine visibly rocking under throttle blips

What to check

Accelerate briskly from a stop and feel for vibration through the floor. At idle in Drive, note any shake that eases in Neutral. With the bonnet open have someone blip the throttle and watch engine movement. On 2005-2007 builds, ask if the No.4 mount bolt torque issue was ever checked.

Where to look: Engine mounts around the engine bay; No.4 mount on affected 2005-2007 builds

Ask the seller

  • “Have any engine mounts been replaced?”
  • “Was the 2005-2007 engine mount bolt issue ever checked or fixed?”
  • “Is there vibration when accelerating?”

09Ignition coil pack failure — misfire and rough idle (FP/FS engines)

Let it idle and watch the tachometer for dips or lumpy running.petrol2000–2005Engine
CommonEngine $200–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Coil pack failure is one of the most commonly reported faults on the CP Premacy's 1.8 FP and 2.0 FS engines. A failing coil causes misfires, rough idle with revs dipping very low at the lights (sometimes to 100-200 rpm), hesitation and poor economy. Old ignition leads compound it. Parts are cheap and available in NZ; the risk is ongoing misfires damaging the catalytic converter. It is an easy pre-purchase check with a scan tool.

A four-cylinder ignition coil rail removed from an engine, beside a steel rule for scale.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A coil-on-plug ignition rail, removed. One coil per cylinder.

Cschirp · CC BY-SA 3.0 de · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough or lumpy idle, revs dipping at traffic lights
  • Misfire/flashing check-engine light under load
  • Hesitation and flat spots
  • Worse in damp weather

What to check

Let it idle and watch the tachometer for dips or lumpy running. Accelerate firmly uphill and feel for stumbles. Ask for an OBD scan for misfire codes. Look at the coil pack and leads for cracks or arcing tracks (start engine in the dark and look for sparks).

Where to look: Coil pack and ignition leads on top/front of the engine

Parts involved: Ignition coil.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the coil pack, leads and plugs been replaced?”
  • “Does the idle ever dip or stumble at lights?”
Electrical2

01Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.1999–2018Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $500–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

EPS column motor fails causing sudden or gradual loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort especially at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — heavy or inconsistent feel warrants investigation.

Where to look: EPS column motor and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering column motor been inspected or repaired?”

02i-stop faults and demanding battery requirements (CW SkyActiv)

Check the dash for a flashing amber i-stop light with the engine running.petrol2010–2018Electrical
CommonElectrical $350–$650 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Third-generation Premacys with the SkyActiv-G 2.0 use Mazda's i-stop idle-stop system, which depends on a healthy (and expensive) EFB/Q-85 spec battery and correct battery coding. As the battery ages the i-stop light flashes amber, the system stops working, and in worse cases the engine is slow to restart after an idle-stop. Fitting a cheap standard battery causes recurring faults. It's not dangerous, but the proper battery costs two to three times a normal one and many used examples arrive with the wrong battery fitted.

Symptoms to notice

  • Amber i-stop warning light flashing on the dash
  • Idle-stop never activates
  • Slow or laboured restart after auto engine stop
  • Battery repeatedly going flat

What to check

  1. Check the dash for a flashing amber i-stop light with the engine running.
  2. On the test drive, stop at a light with the brake held and confirm the engine auto-stops and restarts instantly.
  3. Open the bonnet and read the battery label — it should be an EFB/Q-85 type, not a bargain standard battery.

Where to look: Battery in engine bay; i-stop indicator on instrument cluster

Ask the seller

  • “Does i-stop actually work, and when was the battery last replaced?”
  • “Was the correct Q-85/EFB battery fitted and coded?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior9

01Electric Power Steering Rack Seal and Fluid Leak

For hydraulic systems: inspect the steering rack boots for power steering fluid contamination and the reservoir for low fluid level.2005–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $800–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Premacy CR models fitted with hydraulic-assist power steering develop weeping and then active leaks at the inner rack seals and the high-pressure hose banjo fittings. The rack pinion seal fails due to age hardening of the rubber compounds, and the power steering fluid contaminates the subframe and surrounding chassis. CW models with electric power steering (EPS) develop a different failure: the motor control unit overheats or develops solder joint failures, triggering a loss-of-assist condition. Both variants generate a dashboard EPS or PS warning lamp.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid seeping from the steering rack area, leaving oily residue on the subframe and inner guards
  • EPS or PS warning light illuminating on the instrument cluster, accompanied by heavy or intermittently absent steering assist

What to check

For hydraulic systems: inspect the steering rack boots for power steering fluid contamination and the reservoir for low fluid level. Check the high-pressure hose from the pump to the rack for seepage at the banjo fittings. If a workshop inspection is possible: For EPS-equipped CW models: scan for EPS fault codes with an OBD-II reader, and perform a low-speed parking manoeuvre to verify full unassisted-weight steering effort is not required.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted transversely across front subframe; EPS control module under instrument panel

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any power steering fluid visible on the subframe or drips under the front of the car?”
  • “Has the EPS or PS warning light ever appeared on the dashboard?”
  • “Does the steering feel consistently light and assisted, or does it sometimes feel heavier?”

02Power sliding door cable fraying and roller failure

Cycle the sliding door three to four times using the power button and manually.petrol1999–2010Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

With the front wheels off the ground, grasp the tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and attempt to rock it; vertical play indicates ball joint wear.2005–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arms on the Premacy CR and CW use pressed-in ball joints that wear in the socket and boot. The rubber boot splits — accelerated by NZ road grit — allowing water and debris ingress that corrodes the ball stud. Advanced wear produces handling vagueness and a clunking noise over bumps. Worn ball joints are a direct WOF failure item. Replacement requires either pressing in a new ball joint or replacing the entire lower arm assembly; New Zealand parts supply favours arm assembly replacement.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension corners when traversing speed bumps, pot holes, or sharp directional changes
  • Vague or wandering steering feel with the vehicle tracking poorly in a straight line

What to check

With the front wheels off the ground, grasp the tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and attempt to rock it; vertical play indicates ball joint wear. Inspect the ball joint rubber boot visually for cracking or grease leakage. On a road test, listen for clunking from the front corners over speed bumps and sharp pot holes. Check for uneven tyre wear that may indicate long-standing alignment effects from worn joints.

Where to look: Front suspension lower control arm, one per side

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle recently passed a WOF, and were any suspension items flagged?”
  • “Do you hear any clunking from the front suspension over bumps or when cornering?”
  • “When were the front lower control arms or ball joints last inspected or replaced?”

04Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.1999–2018Brakes
CommonBrakes $150–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One front disc hotter than the other after moderate use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins.

Where to look: Front brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

05Rear Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Rear caliper guide pins seize causing uneven brake wear and drag on one side.Brakes
CommonBrakes

Can't confirm for this car

Rear caliper guide pins seize causing uneven brake wear and drag on one side.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear caliper guide pins seize causing uneven brake wear and drag on one side.
  • Confirm with pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic

What to check

Rear caliper guide pins seize causing uneven brake wear and drag on one side.

Where to look: See description

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

06Sliding door faults — worn rollers, cables, latches and power-door failures

Operate both sliding doors fully several times — manually and with the power buttons (dash, key fob and door handle) if fitted.2005–2018Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $250–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Both the CR (2005-2010) and CW (2010-2018) Premacy use rear sliding doors whose rollers, guide tracks, cables and latch assemblies wear with use. Symptoms range from stiff, graunching manual operation to doors that won't latch, stick shut in cold weather, or power doors (common on JDM imports) that stop, reverse or fail mid-travel. Worn roller/cable kits and latch or door-position sensors are the usual culprits; power-door motor/cable assemblies are the expensive end. Note the fuel-filler safety interlock limits the left door opening while the flap is open — that's normal, not a fault.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door stiff, graunchy or jumping off its track
  • Door won't latch first time or pops back open
  • Power door stops or reverses mid-travel, or the motor whirs without moving the door
  • Door stuck in cold weather but fine when warm

What to check

Operate both sliding doors fully several times — manually and with the power buttons (dash, key fob and door handle) if fitted. Listen for grinding, watch for hesitation, and confirm both doors latch shut with one firm pull. Check the lower track for debris, worn rollers and kinked cables. Try the doors again after the test drive when everything has moved.

Where to look: Rear sliding doors both sides — rollers in the lower/centre tracks, cables and motors inside the doors, latch at the rear edge

Ask the seller

  • “Do both sliding doors open, close and latch properly every time, including the power function?”
  • “Have the door rollers, cables or motors ever been repaired?”
  • “Do the doors play up in cold weather?”

07Front shock absorbers leaking oil (CW)

Turn the front wheels to full lock and look at the strut behind each wheel with a torch — any wet oil on the strut body means it's leaking.2010–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $500–$1,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Leaking front shock absorbers are a very common age/mileage fault on the Premacy, called out in model buyer's guides for the 2010-2018 CW as well as earlier cars. Oil weeps down the strut body, damping fades, and the car floats and thumps over bumps while the front tyres scallop. Shocks are always replaced in pairs; NZ aftermarket struts are readily available. It's also a WoF failure point once leaking is obvious.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oily wet streaks down the front strut bodies
  • Floaty ride, bouncing more than once after a bump
  • Thumping over sharp bumps
  • Cupped/scalloped front tyre wear

What to check

  1. Turn the front wheels to full lock and look at the strut behind each wheel with a torch — any wet oil on the strut body means it's leaking.
  2. Push down hard on each front corner and count the rebounds (more than one and a half bounces = worn).
  3. Feel the front tyres for cupped wear patches.

Where to look: Front struts behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front shocks/struts been replaced, and when?”
  • “Did it pass its last WoF without suspension notes?”

08Front-end suspension knocks and uneven rear tyre wear (CR)

Run your hand across the full width of both rear tyres — feel for feathering or bald inner edges (crouch and look, the wear hides on the inside).2005–2010Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The CR Premacy/Mazda5 is known for front suspension complaints — clunks and rattles from worn sway bar links, control arm bushes and strut mounts — plus a habit of chewing the inside edges of rear tyres due to rear camber/toe drift as bushes settle. Neither is dangerous caught early, but new rear tyres every 15,000-20,000 km gets expensive. An alignment plus links/bushes is routine work for any NZ workshop.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunks or rattles from the front over bumps and speed humps
  • Inside edges of rear tyres worn bald while the middle looks fine
  • Vague steering or slight wander
  • Knocking when turning at low speed

What to check

Run your hand across the full width of both rear tyres — feel for feathering or bald inner edges (crouch and look, the wear hides on the inside). Bounce each front corner and listen for knocks. On the test drive pick a rough side street and listen for front-end rattles. Ask for the last wheel alignment printout.

Where to look: Front sway bar links, control arm bushes, strut tops; rear suspension alignment and inner tyre edges

Parts involved: Ball joint, Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the last wheel alignment, and can I see the printout?”
  • “How long do rear tyres last on this car?”
  • “Have sway bar links or bushes been replaced?”

09Rear Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

Inspect rear trailing arm bushes for cracking.1999–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Rear trailing arm bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and imprecision.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces
  • Imprecise rear handling feel

What to check

  1. Inspect rear trailing arm bushes for cracking.
  2. Push arm — any movement indicates collapsed bushes.

Where to look: Rear suspension trailing arm mounting points

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear trailing arm bush collapse been inspected or repaired?”
Fluid leaks1

01Corroded oil sump leaking (CP)

Look under the front of the car with a torch: the pressed-steel sump at the bottom of the engine should be dry and not heavily rust-scaled.petrol2000–2005Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $350–$800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The steel oil sump on first-generation Premacys corrodes through, first weeping oil that clings to the bottom of the pan, then dripping. It's a known model issue rather than one-off neglect. A replacement sump plus gasket and oil is a straightforward job, but ignoring it risks running the engine low on oil. On NZ cars that have lived near the coast, check carefully.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil spots where the car parks
  • Wet, oily underside of the engine
  • Visible rust scale on the sump
  • Slowly dropping oil level

What to check

  1. Look under the front of the car with a torch: the pressed-steel sump at the bottom of the engine should be dry and not heavily rust-scaled.
  2. Run a finger along the sump seam — fresh oil means it's weeping.
  3. Check the dipstick level and ask about top-ups.

Where to look: Oil sump (pan) at the bottom of the engine, visible from underneath

Ask the seller

  • “Has the oil sump ever been replaced?”
  • “Does it leak or use oil?”

Mazda Premacy faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

Cooling fan control module failure causing overheating (CP)Major · CoolingPower sliding door cable fraying and roller failureMajor · Body & RustTiming belt failure — interference engine (FS-ZE / LF-VE)Critical · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mazda Premacy’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Mazda models

Mazda Mazda648 documented faultsMazda Mazda337 documented faultsMazda CX-536 documented faultsMazda Atenza20 documented faultsMazda Axela20 documented faultsMazda 32318 documented faults

Mazda Premacy buyer questions

Is the Mazda Premacy reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 21 documented faults for the Mazda Premacy, the recurring problem areas are engine, suspension, and transmission. A Mazda Premacy with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mazda Premacy?

We've catalogued 21 known faults for the Mazda Premacy, covering engine, suspension, and transmission. All 21 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mazda Premacy?

Most single repairs on the Mazda Premacy fall between $350–$800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 21 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mazda Premacy?

Yes. A Mazda Premacy inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.