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CriticalCommonCooling

Mitsubishi Challenger: 4D56 coolant loss and overheating - service campaign 020116 and replaced engines

4D56 coolant loss and overheating - service campaign 020116 and replaced engines is a common cooling fault on the Mitsubishi Challenger on the 2009–2015 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $400 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 12 documented faults on the Mitsubishi Challenger.

Vehicle
Mitsubishi Challenger
Engine
4D56
Years
2009–2015
Fuel
diesel
System
Cooling

This page covers the Mitsubishi Challenger as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Mitsubishi Challenger faults12 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Head gasket or Radiator yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

In November 2014 Mitsubishi ran preventative-action service campaign 020116 covering Challenger and Triton models with the 2.5-litre 4D56HP diesel built before 18 March 2014. These engines could lose coolant through repeated evaporation, particularly after hard work such as towing, and where the top face of the cylinder block was left too rough for the head gasket to seal properly, combustion gases could blow into the coolant and make the overheating worse. The campaign fitted a higher-pressure radiator cap to raise the boiling point and replaced the coolant at 50 percent concentration; Mitsubishi had already changed the engine software in September 2013 to pick up coolant loss earlier, and smoothed the block face from March 2014. A good number of these engines overheated badly enough to be replaced under warranty before those changes landed. On any Challenger of this age the coolant history, and whether the engine in it is the original one, matter more than the odometer reading.

What you would notice

  • Coolant level in the overflow bottle dropping with no puddle underneath
  • Temperature gauge climbing above normal on long climbs or when towing
  • Sweet coolant smell after a hard run, or steam drifting from the front of the engine bay
  • Creamy mayonnaise-coloured sludge under the oil filler cap, or white smoke once warm
  • A replacement or reconditioned engine turning up in the service history

How to check it

Where to look. Coolant expansion bottle and radiator at the front of the engine bay, the radiator cap on top, and the temperature gauge on the dash. The oil filler cap sits on top of the rocker cover.

  1. With the engine cold, check the coolant expansion tank level and look at what is in it - clean green coolant up to the mark, or low, rusty, or freshly topped up with plain water.

  2. Take the oil filler cap off and look at the underside for creamy mayonnaise-coloured sludge, which points to coolant finding its way into the oil.

  3. Ask the seller straight out whether the coolant has ever needed topping up, whether the temperature gauge has ever risen above normal, and whether the engine has ever been replaced or reconditioned.

  4. Ask for the service book and look specifically for service campaign 020116, a radiator cap replacement, or an engine replacement, and ask to see the invoices behind them.

  5. On the test drive find the longest climb you can, watch the temperature gauge the whole way up, and at the top turn the heater to full hot and confirm it still blows properly hot, because a system that is low on coolant usually goes cold at the vents before the gauge moves.

Parts involved: Head gasket, Radiator.

What it costs to put right

$400 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the temperature gauge ever gone above normal, especially towing or on a long climb?”
  • “Has the coolant ever needed topping up between services?”
  • “Has service campaign 020116 been carried out, and is it recorded in the book?”
  • “Is this the original engine, and if not, why was it replaced and by whom?”

Now check the Mitsubishi Challenger you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in the sources below. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them.

  • AustralianCar.Reviews 'Recalls & faults: Mitsubishi Mk.2 Challenger (2009-15)' - service campaign 020116, November 2014
  • newtriton.net thread 'Cooling System Service Campaign'
  • newtriton.net thread 'Has your MN engine been replaced as a result of overheating?'
  • Whirlpool Forums thread 'Triton/Challenger Overheating issue'
  • CarsGuide '2011 Mitsubishi Challenger Problems'

Mitsubishi Challenger buyer questions

Is 4d56 coolant loss and overheating - service campaign 020116 and replaced engines serious on a Mitsubishi Challenger?

We rate it critical and common on the Mitsubishi Challenger. In November 2014 Mitsubishi ran preventative-action service campaign 020116 covering Challenger and Triton models with the 2.5-litre 4D56HP diesel built before 18 March 2014. These engines could lose coolant through repeated evaporation, particularly after hard work such as towing, and where the top face of the cylinder block was left too rough for the head gasket to seal properly, combustion gases could blow into the coolant and make the overheating worse. The campaign fitted a higher-pressure radiator cap to raise the boiling point and replaced the coolant at 50 percent concentration; Mitsubishi had already changed the engine software in September 2013 to pick up coolant loss earlier, and smoothed the block face from March 2014. A good number of these engines overheated badly enough to be replaced under warranty before those changes landed. On any Challenger of this age the coolant history, and whether the engine in it is the original one, matter more than the odometer reading.

How much does it cost to fix on a Mitsubishi Challenger?

$400 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Mitsubishi Challenger years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2009–2015 Mitsubishi Challenger. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

With the engine cold, check the coolant expansion tank level and look at what is in it - clean green coolant up to the mark, or low, rusty, or freshly topped up with plain water. Take the oil filler cap off and look at the underside for creamy mayonnaise-coloured sludge, which points to coolant finding its way into the oil. Ask the seller straight out whether the coolant has ever needed topping up, whether the temperature gauge has ever risen above normal, and whether the engine has ever been replaced or reconditioned. Ask for the service book and look specifically for service campaign 020116, a radiator cap replacement, or an engine replacement, and ask to see the invoices behind them. On the test drive find the longest climb you can, watch the temperature gauge the whole way up, and at the top turn the heater to full hot and confirm it still blows properly hot, because a system that is low on coolant usually goes cold at the vents before the gauge moves. Look here: Coolant expansion bottle and radiator at the front of the engine bay, the radiator cap on top, and the temperature gauge on the dash. The oil filler cap sits on top of the rocker cover.