Mitsubishi Challenger: 4D56 timing belt and balance shaft belt — a snapped belt destroys the engine
4D56 timing belt and balance shaft belt — a snapped belt destroys the engine is a common engine fault on the Mitsubishi Challenger on the 2010–2015 cars, and we rate it critical. Putting it right costs $1,200 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 12 documented faults on the Mitsubishi Challenger.
- Vehicle
- Mitsubishi Challenger
- Engine
- 4D56
- Years
- 2010–2015
- Fuel
- diesel
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The 2.5-litre 4D56 diesel in the PB/PC Challenger drives its camshaft with a rubber belt, not a chain, and it is an interference engine: if the belt lets go the pistons meet the valves and the engine is finished. Mitsubishi calls for replacement around 90,000 km. Behind the timing belt sits a second belt driving the balance shafts, and this is the part that catches people out — the balance shaft belt is known to shred early on this engine, and the debris and vibration it throws off can take the timing belt with it. The correct job replaces both belts, the tensioners and the water pump together, so a seller who says 'the timing belt has been done' but paid for one belt only has left the trap fully set. On any Challenger with no belt paperwork, assume the job is due now and price the car accordingly.
What you would notice
- A whine, whirr or rumble from the front of the engine that rises with revs
- New vibration through the car that was not there before, especially at idle
- No timing belt entry in the service book near the 90,000 km mark
- Rubber dust or belt debris visible around the front cover
- Engine turns over but will not start after a bang or a sudden stop
How to check it
Where to look. Timing belt and balance shaft belt behind the front cover at the accessory-belt end of the engine
Start with the paperwork, because this is the fault where paperwork is the inspection: look through the service book and any invoices for a timing belt entry, note the kilometres it was done at, and check the invoice actually lists the balance shaft belt, tensioners and water pump rather than the timing belt alone.
Take a photo of that invoice.
With the bonnet up and the engine idling, stand at the front and listen along the belt end for a whine, whirr or rumble that rises and falls with revs — a balance shaft belt on the way out is often audible before it fails, or by ear at least gives you a reason to dig further.
Put your hand flat on the top of the engine at idle and feel for a coarse shake that was not in other cars you have driven.
Ask the seller directly when the belts were last done, and if the answer is vague, treat the full belt job as a cost you are taking on the day you buy it.
What it costs to put right
$1,200 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “When were the timing belt and balance shaft belt last replaced, and at what kilometres?”
- “Does the invoice include the balance shaft belt, tensioners and water pump?”
- “Has the engine ever been rebuilt or had valve work?”
Now check the Mitsubishi Challenger you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- ReDriven — 'Used Mitsubishi Challenger (PB/PC) review' cheat sheet: 90,000 km timing belt, reports of premature balance shaft belt failure
- Pajero 4WD Club of Victoria forum — '4D56 Balance shaft: what the hell does it do' thread on balance shaft belt failure taking out the timing belt
- JustAnswer Australia — '2010 PB Challenger balance belt whining noise' case
- Offroad Express (NZ) forum thread '4D56 reliability?' — NZ owners on belt intervals and failures
Mitsubishi Challenger buyer questions
Is 4d56 timing belt and balance shaft belt — a snapped belt destroys the engine serious on a Mitsubishi Challenger?
We rate it critical and common on the Mitsubishi Challenger. The 2.5-litre 4D56 diesel in the PB/PC Challenger drives its camshaft with a rubber belt, not a chain, and it is an interference engine: if the belt lets go the pistons meet the valves and the engine is finished. Mitsubishi calls for replacement around 90,000 km. Behind the timing belt sits a second belt driving the balance shafts, and this is the part that catches people out — the balance shaft belt is known to shred early on this engine, and the debris and vibration it throws off can take the timing belt with it. The correct job replaces both belts, the tensioners and the water pump together, so a seller who says 'the timing belt has been done' but paid for one belt only has left the trap fully set. On any Challenger with no belt paperwork, assume the job is due now and price the car accordingly.
How much does it cost to fix on a Mitsubishi Challenger?
$1,200 to $9,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Mitsubishi Challenger years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2010–2015 Mitsubishi Challenger. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Start with the paperwork, because this is the fault where paperwork is the inspection: look through the service book and any invoices for a timing belt entry, note the kilometres it was done at, and check the invoice actually lists the balance shaft belt, tensioners and water pump rather than the timing belt alone. Take a photo of that invoice. With the bonnet up and the engine idling, stand at the front and listen along the belt end for a whine, whirr or rumble that rises and falls with revs — a balance shaft belt on the way out is often audible before it fails, or by ear at least gives you a reason to dig further. Put your hand flat on the top of the engine at idle and feel for a coarse shake that was not in other cars you have driven. Ask the seller directly when the belts were last done, and if the answer is vague, treat the full belt job as a cost you are taking on the day you buy it. Look here: Timing belt and balance shaft belt behind the front cover at the accessory-belt end of the engine