Mitsubishi Pajero: NM/NP 4M41 Intercooler Pipe Split at Boost Clamp
NM/NP 4M41 Intercooler Pipe Split at Boost Clamp is a common engine fault on the Mitsubishi Pajero on the 2000–2006 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $120 to $480 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 39 documented faults on the Mitsubishi Pajero.
- Vehicle
- Mitsubishi Pajero
- Engine
- 4M41
- Years
- 2000–2006
- Fuel
- diesel
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The NM and NP generation 3.2 DI-D 4M41 engine uses rubber intercooler hoses connecting the turbocharger outlet to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. The factory spring clamps and later aftermarket worm-drive clamps allow the rubber hoses to crack or split at the clamp edge under sustained boost pressure, particularly at the lower intercooler outlet pipe and at the top-pipe connection to the inlet manifold. When a pipe splits or blows off, the vehicle enters limp-home mode as the ECU detects loss of boost, or the engine loses power dramatically without triggering a fault code if the split is partial. Symptoms are most apparent under hard acceleration. The hoses become brittle with age and heat cycling; vehicles over 15 years old should have all intercooler pipework inspected as a routine item. Repair with quality silicone hose and T-bolt clamps is the preferred permanent fix.
What you would notice
- Sudden significant loss of power under acceleration, returning at light throttle
- Black smoke from exhaust under load after sudden power loss
- Boost gauge dropping to zero under acceleration if fitted
- Hissing or fluttering sound from engine bay under boost
- Limp-home mode activation with turbo-related fault codes
How to check it
Where to look. Intercooler piping runs from turbocharger on driver-side of engine, across to front-mounted intercooler, and back to inlet manifold on passenger side
With engine cold, squeeze and inspect all intercooler hoses for cracks, hardening, or splits particularly at each clamp location. Pay special attention to the bottom intercooler pipe and the upper connection to the inlet manifold. Look for black soot tracking from any pipe joint indicating a boost leak. With engine warm, have a helper hold the engine at 2000 rpm in neutral while you listen for any hiss or flutter from the intercooler circuit.
What it costs to put right
$120 to $480 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has the vehicle ever suddenly lost power under hard acceleration?”
- “Have the intercooler hoses been replaced and with what type of clamp?”
- “Has the turbo boost ever dropped unexpectedly?”
Now check the Mitsubishi Pajero you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
Mitsubishi Pajero buyer questions
Is nm/np 4m41 intercooler pipe split at boost clamp serious on a Mitsubishi Pajero?
We rate it major and common on the Mitsubishi Pajero. The NM and NP generation 3.2 DI-D 4M41 engine uses rubber intercooler hoses connecting the turbocharger outlet to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. The factory spring clamps and later aftermarket worm-drive clamps allow the rubber hoses to crack or split at the clamp edge under sustained boost pressure, particularly at the lower intercooler outlet pipe and at the top-pipe connection to the inlet manifold. When a pipe splits or blows off, the vehicle enters limp-home mode as the ECU detects loss of boost, or the engine loses power dramatically without triggering a fault code if the split is partial. Symptoms are most apparent under hard acceleration. The hoses become brittle with age and heat cycling; vehicles over 15 years old should have all intercooler pipework inspected as a routine item. Repair with quality silicone hose and T-bolt clamps is the preferred permanent fix.
How much does it cost to fix on a Mitsubishi Pajero?
$120 to $480 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Mitsubishi Pajero years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2000–2006 Mitsubishi Pajero. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
With engine cold, squeeze and inspect all intercooler hoses for cracks, hardening, or splits particularly at each clamp location. Pay special attention to the bottom intercooler pipe and the upper connection to the inlet manifold. Look for black soot tracking from any pipe joint indicating a boost leak. With engine warm, have a helper hold the engine at 2000 rpm in neutral while you listen for any hiss or flutter from the intercooler circuit. Look here: Intercooler piping runs from turbocharger on driver-side of engine, across to front-mounted intercooler, and back to inlet manifold on passenger side