Mitsubishi Pajero: Rear Wheel Arch Lip and Sill Seam Rust
Rear Wheel Arch Lip and Sill Seam Rust is a very common body & rust fault on the Mitsubishi Pajero on the 1991–1999 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $500 to $4,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 39 documented faults on the Mitsubishi Pajero.
- Vehicle
- Mitsubishi Pajero
- Years
- 1991–1999
- System
- Body & Rust
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
Gen 2 Pajeros are now 25–35 years old and commonly develop structural rust in the rear wheel arch lips, lower sill seams, and floor pan edges. Factory paint and underseal degrade in NZ/AU coastal and wet climates, allowing salt and moisture ingress through seam welds. Rust in the sill seams compromises side-impact structure. Patched or body-fill-repaired arches are very common in the trade; these repairs conceal but do not cure the underlying rust and typically fail within two to three years.
What you would notice
- Bubbling or blistering paint above rear wheel arches
- Visible perforation at sill ends near front and rear jacking points
- Soft or flexible sill panels when pressed firmly by hand
- Rust-coloured water draining from sill drain holes
- Flaking or lifting paint along door-to-sill joins
How to check it
Where to look. Rear wheel arch lips, lower door sill seams front and rear, floor pan edges
Crouch beside each rear wheel arch and press the arch lip firmly with your thumb — any crunch, flex, or collapse indicates active rust. Run fingers along the full sill length beneath each door. Pull back floor mats to check for rust bubbling through the floor pan. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect the sill ends near all four jacking points with a torch.
What it costs to put right
$500 to $4,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Has any rust repair been carried out on the arches or sills?”
- “Has the vehicle lived in a coastal or high-salinity area?”
- “Has the underside been rust-proofed or resealed after import?”
Now check the Mitsubishi Pajero you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
Mitsubishi Pajero buyer questions
Is rear wheel arch lip and sill seam rust serious on a Mitsubishi Pajero?
We rate it major and very common on the Mitsubishi Pajero. Gen 2 Pajeros are now 25–35 years old and commonly develop structural rust in the rear wheel arch lips, lower sill seams, and floor pan edges. Factory paint and underseal degrade in NZ/AU coastal and wet climates, allowing salt and moisture ingress through seam welds. Rust in the sill seams compromises side-impact structure. Patched or body-fill-repaired arches are very common in the trade; these repairs conceal but do not cure the underlying rust and typically fail within two to three years.
How much does it cost to fix on a Mitsubishi Pajero?
$500 to $4,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which Mitsubishi Pajero years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 1991–1999 Mitsubishi Pajero. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Crouch beside each rear wheel arch and press the arch lip firmly with your thumb — any crunch, flex, or collapse indicates active rust. Run fingers along the full sill length beneath each door. Pull back floor mats to check for rust bubbling through the floor pan. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect the sill ends near all four jacking points with a torch. Look here: Rear wheel arch lips, lower door sill seams front and rear, floor pan edges