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Nissan2002–2021 Critical issues documented

Nissan 350Z Z34: common faults & what to check

The Z34 is the Nissan 350Z built 2009–2021. Of the 12 faults documented for the 350Z, 5 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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12

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$500–$1,200

Typical repair

5

Systems covered

You're looking at the Z34

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

3.5L petrol (VQ35-DE)· 3.5 litre petrol3.7L petrol (VQ37-VHR)· 3.7 litre petrol

A 2010 Nissan 350Z is the Z34 generation (2009 to 2021).

We cannot narrow the engine list to this year, so every engine this model was sold with is offered.

Start your free check on this Nissan 350Z

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Nissan 350Z Z34Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the 350Z came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Nissan 350Z · 2010

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Nissan 350Z before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Watch for: Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, pot holes or during parking manoeuvres.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

    The Z33 and Z34 front suspension uses pressed-in ball joints in the lower control arms. Road grit, moisture and the high cornering loads generated by the stiff suspension geometry accelerate wear of the ball joint socket and bearing surface. As clearance increases the joint develops axial play, which allows the knuckle to move unpredictably under braking and cornering loads — a safety-critical failure mode. In advanced cases the joint can separate, resulting in immediate loss of steering and wheel collapse; many WoF inspection failures on higher-mileage Z33s cite front ball joint play as the rejection reason.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, pot holes or during parking manoeuvres
    • Steering wander or vague on-centre feel that worsens on uneven road surfaces
    • Uneven front tyre wear, particularly feathering of the inner shoulder

    Typically $500–$1,600 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Watch for: Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, with the pull becoming more pronounced as the brakes heat up.

    See why

    Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

    The front and rear brake calipers on the Z33 and Z34 use sliding guide pins that allow the caliper body to float and apply equal clamping force to both brake pads. In New Zealand's coastal and wet-road environment, road salt and water ingress corrode the guide pin bores in the caliper bracket, causing the pins to seize in position. A seized guide pin prevents the outboard pad from releasing fully after brake application, creating continuous rotor contact that causes accelerated pad and rotor wear, elevated brake fluid temperatures, and progressive braking pull toward the seized side. Rear calipers are disproportionately affected because they also incorporate the electric park brake mechanism, which further complicates disassembly.

    What you would notice

    • Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, with the pull becoming more pronounced as the brakes heat up
    • One wheel noticeably hotter than the other after normal driving, accompanied by a faint burning smell from that corner
    • Uneven brake pad wear with the outboard pad on one corner worn significantly more than the inboard pad on the same caliper

    Typically $250–$1,200 to put right.

See all 5 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical3

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Watch for: Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, pot holes or during parking manoeuvres.2002 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $500–$1,600 to fix

The Z33 and Z34 front suspension uses pressed-in ball joints in the lower control arms. Road grit, moisture and the high cornering loads generated by the stiff suspension geometry accelerate wear of the ball joint socket and bearing surface. As clearance increases the joint develops axial play, which allows the knuckle to move unpredictably under braking and cornering loads — a safety-critical failure mode. In advanced cases the joint can separate, resulting in immediate loss of steering and wheel collapse; many WoF inspection failures on higher-mileage Z33s cite front ball joint play as the rejection reason.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, pot holes or during parking manoeuvres
  • Steering wander or vague on-centre feel that worsens on uneven road surfaces
  • Uneven front tyre wear, particularly feathering of the inner shoulder

What to check

Watch for: Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, pot holes or during parking manoeuvres. If a workshop inspection is possible: Lift the vehicle on a hoist and grasp the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock to check for vertical play in the ball joint; use a pry bar under the wheel to load the joint and check for movement exceeding 1 mm; inspect the ball joint boot for tears or grease extrusion; check the lower arm itself for cracks or deformation near the ball joint housing; confirm boot integrity as a torn boot accelerates joint wear significantly.

Where to look: Front suspension, lower control arm pivot to steering knuckle, one each side

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “When did the vehicle last pass a Warrant of Fitness, and were any suspension items flagged?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front end over bumps?”
  • “Have the lower control arms or ball joints ever been replaced?”

02Rear Multi-Link Suspension Bush Collapse

The Z33 and Z34 rear suspension is a sophisticated five-link independent layout with rubber-bonded bushes at each arm pivot point.2002 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $900–$3,500 to fix

The Z33 and Z34 rear suspension is a sophisticated five-link independent layout with rubber-bonded bushes at each arm pivot point. The toe-link and inner lateral link bushes are particularly vulnerable to degradation because they carry high longitudinal loads and are positioned close to hot exhaust components in the tunnel area. As the rubber compounds harden, crack or debond from the outer sleeve, the arms lose their intended geometry compliance and the rear axle develops uncontrolled toe changes under braking and acceleration. The result is a rear end that feels nervous or loose on corner exit, and the failure is frequently misdiagnosed as shock absorber wear before alignment data reveals the root cause.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear instability or darting sensation at motorway speed, particularly when changing lanes or on road camber changes
  • Clunking from the rear suspension over sharp bumps, distinct from shock absorber noise
  • Rapid inside-edge wear on rear tyres caused by continuous toe-out under load

What to check

Place the vehicle on a four-wheel alignment rack and measure dynamic toe change — more than 0.15 degrees of toe-out change under simulated braking load indicates bush collapse; inspect each rear arm pivot visually for cracked rubber, oil contamination or bush migration out of its housing; grasp each rear arm and attempt to move it laterally and longitudinally by hand to detect excessive compliance; check the toe-link adjusters for corrosion seizure which prevents correct toe setting.

Where to look: Rear suspension subframe area; toe link, inner and outer lateral link bush pivot points, both sides

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear suspension or any rear arms been replaced or refurbished?”
  • “Is there any instability or darting sensation at higher speeds?”
  • “When were the rear tyres last replaced, and what was the wear pattern?”

03Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Watch for: Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, with the pull becoming more pronounced as the brakes heat up.2002 onwardBrakes
CommonBrakes $250–$1,200 to fix

The front and rear brake calipers on the Z33 and Z34 use sliding guide pins that allow the caliper body to float and apply equal clamping force to both brake pads. In New Zealand's coastal and wet-road environment, road salt and water ingress corrode the guide pin bores in the caliper bracket, causing the pins to seize in position. A seized guide pin prevents the outboard pad from releasing fully after brake application, creating continuous rotor contact that causes accelerated pad and rotor wear, elevated brake fluid temperatures, and progressive braking pull toward the seized side. Rear calipers are disproportionately affected because they also incorporate the electric park brake mechanism, which further complicates disassembly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, with the pull becoming more pronounced as the brakes heat up
  • One wheel noticeably hotter than the other after normal driving, accompanied by a faint burning smell from that corner
  • Uneven brake pad wear with the outboard pad on one corner worn significantly more than the inboard pad on the same caliper

What to check

Watch for: Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, with the pull becoming more pronounced as the brakes heat up. If a workshop inspection is possible: After a normal test drive, carefully approach each wheel and check for uneven heat — a seized caliper will make the affected wheel significantly hotter than its pair; remove the wheels and check that each caliper slides freely on its pins by pushing the caliper body parallel to the rotor face; inspect the rubber guide pin boots for tears or swelling which allow moisture into the bore; measure pad thickness on inboard versus outboard positions — a greater than 3 mm difference between sides indicates a floating issue; check rotor faces for uneven blue heat discolouration or lip on one side only.

Where to look: Front and rear brake caliper slide pin bores in the caliper mounting bracket, one upper and one lower pin per caliper

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking?”
  • “Have the brake calipers been serviced or replaced recently?”
  • “Is there any smell of burning from one corner of the car after driving?”
Depends on the exact engine — 2 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling2

01Rear LSD Fluid Degradation and Differential Chatter

Perform a slow full-lock U-turn in a large car park and listen for chattering from the rear axle.petrol2009–2021Transmission
CommonTransmission $150–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 370Z Sport and NISMO variants carry a factory mechanical limited-slip differential whose friction modifier additives degrade with heat cycling and mileage. Degraded fluid causes the characteristic LSD chatter during low-speed tight-radius turning as the clutch packs bind rather than slip smoothly. The differential fluid is frequently overlooked as owners assume a lifetime fill — it is not. Correct-spec fluid with friction modifier additive resolves chatter in all but severely worn differentials.

Symptoms to notice

  • Chattering, juddering, or clunking from the rear axle during slow full-lock turns
  • Driveline shudder when pulling away from rest in a tight turning manoeuvre
  • Symptoms more pronounced when cold, diminish after sustained driving
  • Vibration potentially confused with driveshaft or CV joint noise

What to check

  1. Perform a slow full-lock U-turn in a large car park and listen for chattering from the rear axle.
  2. Inspect the differential drain and fill plug areas for evidence of recent fluid service.
  3. Check for differential fluid change intervals in service records.

Where to look: Rear differential unit, limited-slip clutch pack assembly at the rear axle centre

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the rear differential fluid last changed?”
  • “Does the car chatter or shudder from the rear during tight low-speed turns?”
  • “Has the car been used on track or driven competitively?”

02Manual Transmission Clutch Pressure Plate Cracking

Watch for: Clutch shudder or judder during engagement, especially from a standing start, that worsens as the clutch heats up.petrol2002 onwardTransmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,500–$3,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 6-speed manual Z33 and Z34 use a single-disc clutch assembly where the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers and the pressure ring itself are subject to thermal stress cracking under hard use. The factory clutch is calibrated for street loads, and repeated high-rpm launches or track sessions generate heat that exceeds the pressure plate's thermal tolerance, causing fatigue cracks to develop at the diaphragm spring fulcrum ring. Cracked pressure plates produce increasingly erratic engagement as the clamping load becomes uneven, and in severe cases the pressure ring or a diaphragm finger can fracture and damage the flywheel, bell housing or gearbox input shaft bearing.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clutch shudder or judder during engagement, especially from a standing start, that worsens as the clutch heats up
  • Vibration through the gearstick and floor pan when the clutch is partially released, distinct from engine vibration
  • Difficulty modulating the bite point precisely, with engagement becoming binary (in or out) rather than progressive

What to check

Watch for: Clutch shudder or judder during engagement, especially from a standing start, that worsens as the clutch heats up. If a workshop inspection is possible: Test for clutch shudder or judder during slow, smooth engagement from rest — a healthy clutch engages cleanly; check for a high or inconsistent bite point that changes when the clutch is hot versus cold; remove the gearbox if shudder is confirmed to inspect the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers for cracks or uneven wear; inspect the flywheel face for heat-check cracking or heavy scoring indicating prolonged slippage; verify the release bearing moves freely on the input shaft collar.

Where to look: Clutch bellhousing between engine and 6-speed gearbox; pressure plate bolted to the flywheel

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle been used on a track or for regular hard launches?”
  • “Is there any shudder or vibration through the clutch pedal when pulling away?”
  • “Has the clutch been replaced, and if so, what brand and specification was fitted?”
Other Nissan 350Z engines and years7 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling5

01VQ35DE Secondary Timing Chain Stretch

Scan for camshaft position timing codes before test drive.petrol2002–2006Engine
CommonEngine $1,800–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The VQ35DE (2002-2006, pre-HR) uses secondary timing chains linking the primary chain to the exhaust camshafts. These secondary chains are prone to stretch under the dual-overhead-cam load, particularly with irregular oil change intervals. Stretched chains cause cam timing retardation, triggering P0011/P0021 cam position sensor fault codes and loss of power. If left unattended the chain can jump a tooth or fail catastrophically. The VQ35HR (2006-2009) redesigned the secondary chain routing and largely resolved this.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • P0011 or P0021 camshaft position timing fault codes
  • Rough idle, loss of power, poor throttle response
  • Engine rattle that persists beyond cold-start warm-up period
  • Reduced fuel economy

What to check

  1. Scan for camshaft position timing codes before test drive.
  2. Request oil change history — neglected intervals are the primary cause.
  3. Listen for persistent chain noise after full warm-up.
  4. A borescope through the oil filler cap can reveal sludge indicating poor maintenance.

Where to look: Secondary timing chains at rear of each cylinder bank, inside valve covers

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or guides ever been replaced?”
  • “Can you show me a full oil change service history?”
  • “Have any engine fault codes been cleared recently?”

02VQ35DE/VQ37VHR Timing Chain Primary and Secondary Tensioner Rattle

Watch for: Metallic rattling or slapping from the front of the engine on cold start that diminishes after 5–15 seconds of running.petrol2002–2008Engine
CommonEngine $1,800–$5,500 to fix

Does not apply

The VQ35DE uses a three-chain layout: one primary chain driving an intermediate shaft, and two secondary chains feeding each camshaft bank. The hydraulic tensioners, particularly the secondary units, lose oil pressure after cold soaks because the check valves allow oil to drain back to the sump overnight. On the VQ37VHR the arrangement is similar, and tensioner oil galleries are narrow enough that marginal oil viscosity or extended drain intervals starve the tensioner pistons, allowing chain slack to slap the plastic guide rails. Prolonged operation in this condition wears the guides, which can shed debris into the sump and eventually allow chain jump or guide rail breakage.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or slapping from the front of the engine on cold start that diminishes after 5–15 seconds of running
  • Persistent ticking or chain slap at idle that worsens when oil is low or degraded
  • Variable valve timing fault codes P0010, P0011 or P0021 with associated loss of mid-range power

What to check

Watch for: Metallic rattling or slapping from the front of the engine on cold start that diminishes after 5–15 seconds of running. If a workshop inspection is possible: Start a fully cold engine and listen for a metallic rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine that lasts 2–10 seconds before quieting; check for stored VTC codes P0010/P0011/P0021; remove the valve covers to inspect guide rail condition and chain stretch using a dial indicator at the cam sprocket; verify oil level and condition, noting any grey sludge indicating guide material in the oil.

Where to look: Front of engine block behind the timing cover, accessible from above after removing the upper engine covers

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine rattle on a cold start before settling?”
  • “What is the oil change interval and what oil grade is used?”
  • “Has any timing chain or tensioner work ever been performed?”

03Concentric Clutch Slave Cylinder (CSC) Internal Failure

Pump the clutch pedal firmly several times and feel for sponginess that temporarily improves (suggests air ingress from a failing CSC seal).petrol2002–2009Transmission
CommonTransmission $500–$1,100 to fix

Does not apply

The Z33 six-speed manual uses a concentric slave cylinder (CSC) mounted inside the bell housing, concentric with the gearbox input shaft. When this unit fails it cannot be inspected without full transmission removal. The CSC seal deteriorates and leaks hydraulic fluid internally, causing clutch disengagement failure or a progressively spongy pedal. Because replacement requires dropping the gearbox, labour costs are disproportionately high relative to the part cost. This is a well-documented weak point across all Z33 manual variants.

Symptoms to notice

  • Spongy or progressively deepening clutch pedal feel
  • Clutch not fully disengaging — difficulty selecting gears cleanly
  • Clutch fluid reservoir level dropping with no visible external leak
  • Grinding noise when selecting first gear from a standstill

What to check

Pump the clutch pedal firmly several times and feel for sponginess that temporarily improves (suggests air ingress from a failing CSC seal). Check clutch fluid reservoir level and inspect for discolouration. Any gearbox bell housing exterior oil film can indicate seal-related leakage though CSC failure is typically internal.

Where to look: Inside the transmission bell housing, concentric around the gearbox input shaft

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch or slave cylinder ever been replaced?”
  • “Does the clutch pedal feel spongy or sit lower than usual?”
  • “Any difficulty selecting first or reverse gear from a standstill?”

04VQ35 Cam Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen immediately for rattle from the front timing cover.petrol2002–2009Engine
Very commonEngine $350–$700 to fix

Does not apply

The primary cam chain tensioners on the VQ35DE and VQ35HR engines lose oil pressure after extended engine-off periods. On cold start the tensioner takes several seconds to pressurise, allowing chain slack that produces a loud metallic rattle from the front of the engine. Repeated episodes accelerate chain and guide wear. Most evident in high-mileage examples and vehicles that sit unused for days.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud metallic rattling noise from engine front on cold start
  • Rattle subsides within 5-15 seconds as oil pressure builds
  • Noise worsens after vehicle sits unused for several days
  • May be accompanied by check engine light if chain skips timing

What to check

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen immediately for rattle from the front timing cover. Duration and volume indicate severity. Check service history for tensioner replacement. Inspect oil condition — black, dirty oil worsens tensioner bleed-down.

Where to look: Front of engine block, behind timing cover on both cam chain banks

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the cam chain tensioner ever been replaced?”
  • “How often is the oil changed and what weight oil is used?”
  • “Does the car sit unused for long periods between drives?”

05Rear LSD Fluid Degradation and Chatter

Perform slow full-lock U-turns in a quiet car park and listen and feel for differential chatter from the rear axle.petrol2002–2009Transmission
CommonTransmission $150–$600 to fix

Does not apply

The factory Torsen or clutch-pack limited-slip differential fitted to most 350Z variants degrades its friction modifier additives with heat cycling and use. Worn or wrong-spec fluid causes a characteristic chattering or clunking sensation when the diff engages during low-speed turning manoeuvres such as parking lot U-turns. The condition is usually resolved with a drain-and-refill using Nissan-spec friction modifier additive, but long-neglected diffs can develop worn clutch packs requiring a rebuild.

Symptoms to notice

  • Chattering, juddering, or clunking from the rear differential during low-speed tight turning
  • Driveline shudder sensation when pulling away from rest in a tight corner
  • Symptoms more pronounced when cold, diminish after extended driving
  • Noise on smooth car park surfaces during parking manoeuvres

What to check

  1. Perform slow full-lock U-turns in a quiet car park and listen and feel for differential chatter from the rear axle.
  2. Check for evidence of differential fluid change in service history.
  3. Inspect the differential casing for leaks or wetness.

Where to look: Rear differential unit at the rear axle centre

Parts involved: Differential, Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the rear differential fluid last changed?”
  • “Has the car ever been tracked or driven competitively?”
  • “Any chattering or shuddering from the rear during parking manoeuvres?”
Fluid leaks2

01Power Steering Rack Seal Leaks

Check power steering reservoir level and fluid colour (should be clear or amber, not dark brown).petrol2002–2009Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $700–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

The hydraulic rack-and-pinion power steering unit on the Z33 develops internal seal deterioration with age, causing power steering fluid to weep from the rack ends and pinion seal. Fluid loss leads to low-fluid groaning on lock-to-lock turns and, if ignored, causes rack scoring and eventual full failure. Leaking fluid also contaminates the front subframe area. A rebuild is feasible but many workshops replace the rack as a unit.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid puddle or stain under front of vehicle
  • Groaning or whining noise on full steering lock
  • Stiff or notchy steering feel when manoeuvring
  • Power steering fluid reservoir level dropping without visible external spill

What to check

  1. Check power steering reservoir level and fluid colour (should be clear or amber, not dark brown).
  2. Inspect the steering rack boots for fluid wetness or swelling.
  3. Place cardboard under the front subframe overnight and check for active drips.
  4. Inspect the pinion seal at the steering column entry point.

Where to look: Steering rack unit along the front subframe, pinion seal at steering column entry

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering rack ever been rebuilt or replaced?”
  • “When was the power steering fluid last changed?”
  • “Any groaning noise when turning at low speed or on full lock?”

02VQ35 Valve Cover Gasket Oil Leaks

Inspect both cylinder banks along the valve cover mating faces with a torch.petrol2002–2009Fluid Leaks
Very commonFluid Leaks $400–$750 to fix

Does not apply

The VQ35 engine uses four valve covers (two per bank on the DOHC layout). The cork-and-rubber gaskets harden and crack with age, producing oil leaks that run down onto exhaust manifolds and the bell housing. Leaks are near-universal on unmaintained high-mileage examples. The upper and lower covers each have separate gaskets. Labour is moderate as covers require intake plenum removal on some variants.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oily residue on tops and sides of engine block
  • Burning oil smell from exhaust manifold area under load
  • Oil contamination on bell housing or transmission casing
  • Visible wet staining along valve cover mating faces

What to check

  1. Inspect both cylinder banks along the valve cover mating faces with a torch.
  2. Check the bell housing area for oil contamination (can indicate clutch contamination on manuals).
  3. Look for dried oil baked onto exhaust manifolds indicating older long-standing leaks.

Where to look: Both cylinder bank valve covers, upper and lower mating faces to the cylinder head

Parts involved: Rocker / valve cover.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the valve cover gaskets been replaced?”
  • “Is there any oil visible on the clutch bell housing?”
  • “Is there a burning oil smell when the engine is hot?”

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Nissan 350Z’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Nissan models

Nissan Patrol48 documented faultsNissan Navara45 documented faultsNissan X-Trail45 documented faultsNissan Cefiro12 documented faultsNissan Fuga12 documented faultsNissan GT-R12 documented faults

Nissan 350Z buyer questions

Is the Nissan 350Z reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 12 documented faults for the Nissan 350Z, the recurring problem areas are engine, suspension, and transmission. A Nissan 350Z with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Nissan 350Z?

We've catalogued 12 known faults for the Nissan 350Z, covering engine, suspension, and transmission. All 12 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Nissan 350Z?

Most single repairs on the Nissan 350Z fall between $500–$1,200 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 12 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Nissan 350Z?

Yes. A Nissan 350Z inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.