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Nissan2003–2014 Critical issues documented

Nissan Altima: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Nissan Altima (2003–2014) in New Zealand? We've documented 8 known faults for this model spanning transmission, engine, electrical, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

A Nissan Altima — example photograph; the generation is not established
Nissan Altima. An example of the model — the generation is not established, and it is not the car you are looking at. Photo: Kevauto via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Check this exact Nissan Altima

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

8

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$400–$1,500

Typical repair

5

Systems covered

Which Nissan Altima are you looking at?

Pick the year and the engine. The faults below narrow to that exact combination, because a 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Nissan Altima

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Altima came with 3, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Nissan Altima

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Nissan Altima before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Drive at light throttle between 40–80 km/h and feel for shudder or vibration through the drivetrain.

    See why

    QR25DE CVT Failure and Shudder

    The Jatco CVT paired with the QR25DE 2.5-litre four-cylinder is the most significant known fault on 4-cylinder Teana variants across J31 and L33 generations. Early J31 units (2003–2008) suffer outright CVT failure from belt and pulley wear, particularly on high-mileage JDM imports without transmission service records. L33 units (2013–2022) exhibit CVT shudder at light throttle and overheating under sustained load — a pattern specifically warned about by NRMA and Australian consumer groups. Use of non-Nissan NS-3 CVT fluid or delayed fluid changes greatly accelerates failure. Replacement units from Japan are common but carry their own mileage risk.

    What you would notice

    • Shuddering or vibration during light-throttle acceleration from 40–80 km/h
    • Slipping or flaring RPM with no corresponding acceleration
    • Overheating warning or limp-home mode under sustained highway driving
    • Whining or grinding noise from the transmission tunnel
    • Delayed engagement when selecting Drive or Reverse

    Typically $2,800–$6,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle from the cam cover area.

    See why

    VQ35DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

    The VQ35DE 3.5-litre V6 fitted to J31, J32, and L33 Teana models shares the well-documented secondary timing chain tensioner failure pattern common across Nissan VQ-series engines. The secondary chain on the driver-side bank loses tensioner pressure as the hydraulic tensioner fatigues, causing a pronounced metallic rattle on cold start that typically clears within 30–60 seconds as oil pressure builds. Continued use risks chain skip and catastrophic valve damage. Oil maintenance history is critical — sludged oil from infrequent changes accelerates tensioner wear and blocks the feed galleries. At the mileages common on NZ JDM imports this fault is frequently already present.

    What you would notice

    • Cold-start metallic rattling from the top of the engine, typically driver's side
    • Rattle clears within 30–60 seconds of warm-up
    • Rattle worsens after overdue oil changes
    • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes in advanced cases

    Typically $900–$2,800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test drive and feel for vibration at 20-60 km/h under light throttle.

    See why

    CVT RE0F09A Belt Judder

    The Teana CVT develops shudder from belt and pulley wear. Very common on examples used for urban short trips. Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid is critical — incorrect fluid accelerates belt damage.

    What you would notice

    • Rhythmic shudder or buzz from drivetrain during light acceleration
    • CVT fluid that is dark rather than the correct clear pink with a burnt smell

    Typically $600–$3,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check for cracked or split ball joint boots leaking grease.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

    Front lower control arm ball joints on J31 and J32 Teana models wear prematurely, particularly on JDM import examples that have accumulated 80,000–150,000 km before NZ or AU registration. The original ball joints are not independently serviceable on some variants, requiring full lower arm replacement. Failed ball joints produce clunking over bumps and compromise steering geometry, leading to tyre wear and handling instability. NZ road conditions and the age of these imports make this a near-universal WOF advisory finding.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking from front suspension over bumps or when turning on full lock
    • Vague or wandering steering
    • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear
    • Visible play when wheel is shaken at 9 and 3 o'clock positions

    Typically $350–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check for pulling under braking.

    See why

    Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

    Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

    What you would notice

    • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
    • One front disc hotter than the other after use

    Typically $200–$600 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Scan for EPS fault codes.

    See why

    Electric Power Steering Failure

    EPS system can develop a fault causing loss of power assistance.

    What you would notice

    • Sudden or gradual loss of power steering assistance with EPS warning light
    • Heavy steering requiring significant effort at low speeds

    Typically $700–$2,200 to put right.

See all 8 documented issuesEverything researched for the Nissan Altima, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Nissan Altima has — 8Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling3

01QR25DE CVT Failure and Shudder

Drive at light throttle between 40–80 km/h and feel for shudder or vibration through the drivetrain.petrol2007–2013Transmission
CommonTransmission $2,800–$6,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Jatco CVT paired with the QR25DE 2.5-litre four-cylinder is the most significant known fault on 4-cylinder Teana variants across J31 and L33 generations. Early J31 units (2003–2008) suffer outright CVT failure from belt and pulley wear, particularly on high-mileage JDM imports without transmission service records. L33 units (2013–2022) exhibit CVT shudder at light throttle and overheating under sustained load — a pattern specifically warned about by NRMA and Australian consumer groups. Use of non-Nissan NS-3 CVT fluid or delayed fluid changes greatly accelerates failure. Replacement units from Japan are common but carry their own mileage risk.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shuddering or vibration during light-throttle acceleration from 40–80 km/h
  • Slipping or flaring RPM with no corresponding acceleration
  • Overheating warning or limp-home mode under sustained highway driving
  • Whining or grinding noise from the transmission tunnel
  • Delayed engagement when selecting Drive or Reverse

What to check

  1. Drive at light throttle between 40–80 km/h and feel for shudder or vibration through the drivetrain.
  2. Check CVT fluid colour and smell — should be translucent pink or red, not brown or burnt.
  3. Confirm CVT fluid has been changed at least once with correct NS-3 specification.
  4. Request any transmission service receipts and scan for transmission fault codes.

Where to look: Transmission tunnel, forward of centre console

Ask the seller

  • “Has the CVT fluid ever been changed, and with which fluid specification?”
  • “Has the transmission ever shuddered, slipped, or gone into limp mode?”
  • “Is there any transmission service history for this vehicle?”

02VQ35DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle from the cam cover area.petrol2003–2008Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The VQ35DE 3.5-litre V6 fitted to J31, J32, and L33 Teana models shares the well-documented secondary timing chain tensioner failure pattern common across Nissan VQ-series engines. The secondary chain on the driver-side bank loses tensioner pressure as the hydraulic tensioner fatigues, causing a pronounced metallic rattle on cold start that typically clears within 30–60 seconds as oil pressure builds. Continued use risks chain skip and catastrophic valve damage. Oil maintenance history is critical — sludged oil from infrequent changes accelerates tensioner wear and blocks the feed galleries. At the mileages common on NZ JDM imports this fault is frequently already present.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Cold-start metallic rattling from the top of the engine, typically driver's side
  • Rattle clears within 30–60 seconds of warm-up
  • Rattle worsens after overdue oil changes
  • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes in advanced cases

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle from the cam cover area.
  2. Check for oil sludge on the dipstick and inside the oil filler cap.
  3. Request full oil service history with dates and mileages.
  4. Ask specifically whether tensioners have ever been replaced.

Where to look: Driver-side cam chain cover, upper engine

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the secondary timing chain tensioner ever been replaced?”
  • “Can you show me the full oil service history?”
  • “Has there ever been a rattling noise on cold start?”

03CVT RE0F09A Belt Judder

Test drive and feel for vibration at 20-60 km/h under light throttle.petrol2003–2014Transmission
Very commonTransmission $600–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Teana CVT develops shudder from belt and pulley wear. Very common on examples used for urban short trips. Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid is critical — incorrect fluid accelerates belt damage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic shudder or buzz from drivetrain during light acceleration
  • CVT fluid that is dark rather than the correct clear pink with a burnt smell

What to check

Test drive and feel for vibration at 20-60 km/h under light throttle. CVT fluid darker than clear pink indicates degraded fluid.

Where to look: CVT gearbox in engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “Has the cvt re0f09a belt judder been inspected or repaired?”
Electrical2

01Electric Power Steering Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2003–2014Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $700–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

EPS system can develop a fault causing loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden or gradual loss of power steering assistance with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring significant effort at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — any heavy or inconsistent feel indicates a fault.

Where to look: EPS rack and column assembly

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering failure been inspected or repaired?”

02Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Bearing Failure

Test AC during test drive.2003–2014Electrical
CommonElectrical $400–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

AC compressor clutch bearing wears causing squealing when AC is engaged.

Symptoms to notice

  • Squealing or grinding noise from engine front when AC is switched on
  • Noise stops when AC is switched off

What to check

  1. Test AC during test drive.
  2. Listen for squealing from engine front when AC engaged.

Where to look: AC compressor on front of engine

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the air conditioning compressor clutch bearing been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

Check for cracked or split ball joint boots leaking grease.petrol2003–2013Suspension
Very commonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front lower control arm ball joints on J31 and J32 Teana models wear prematurely, particularly on JDM import examples that have accumulated 80,000–150,000 km before NZ or AU registration. The original ball joints are not independently serviceable on some variants, requiring full lower arm replacement. Failed ball joints produce clunking over bumps and compromise steering geometry, leading to tyre wear and handling instability. NZ road conditions and the age of these imports make this a near-universal WOF advisory finding.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps or when turning on full lock
  • Vague or wandering steering
  • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear
  • Visible play when wheel is shaken at 9 and 3 o'clock positions

What to check

  1. Check for cracked or split ball joint boots leaking grease.
  2. Inspect lower arm for corrosion at the ball joint mount.
  3. Ask for recent WOF advisory history.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, attempt to move the front wheels by hand and watch for play in the lower ball joint.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, outboard ball joint end, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the front lower control arms or ball joints last replaced?”
  • “Does the car have any current or recent WOF advisories for front suspension?”
  • “Has there been any clunking from the front end?”

02Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2003–2014Brakes
CommonBrakes $200–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One front disc hotter than the other after use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins for movement.

Where to look: Front brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

03Rear Suspension Multi-Link Bush Collapse

Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking.2003–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and handling imprecision.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces
  • Imprecise rear handling feel

What to check

  1. Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking.
  2. Push arms — any movement indicates collapsed bushes.

Where to look: Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear suspension multi-link bush collapse been inspected or repaired?”

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Nissan Altima’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Nissan models

Nissan Altima buyer questions

Is the Nissan Altima reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 8 documented faults for the Nissan Altima, the recurring problem areas are transmission, engine, and electrical. A Nissan Altima with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Nissan Altima?

We've catalogued 8 known faults for the Nissan Altima, covering transmission, engine, and electrical. All 8 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Nissan Altima?

Most single repairs on the Nissan Altima fall between $400–$1,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 8 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Nissan Altima?

Yes. A Nissan Altima inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.