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Nissan1989–2023 Critical issues documented

Nissan Skyline: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Nissan Skyline (1989–2023) in New Zealand? We've documented 41 known faults for this model spanning engine, electrical, fluid leaks, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Nissan Skyline

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

41

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$700–$2,400

Typical repair

8

Systems covered

Which Nissan Skyline are you looking at?

11 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Nissan Skyline

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Nissan SkylineEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Skyline came with 8, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Nissan Skyline

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Nissan Skyline before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Check the interior of the compressor housing for oil coating.

    See why

    Turbo Oil Drain Line Coking — Bearing Starvation

    On RB25DET and RB26DETT applications the turbocharger oil drain line routes from the turbo centre section back to the block via a steel tube with rubber connecting sections. When the engine is shut down hot, residual heat soaks the oil sitting static inside the drain tube; over thousands of heat cycles the oil carbonises and deposits build up (known as coking), progressively restricting the drain bore. A restricted drain causes oil to back up in the centre-section bearing housing, raises shaft seal pressure, forces oil past the compressor and turbine seals (blue smoke on overrun), and ultimately starves the floating bearings on cold start when the oil pressure supply exceeds the impeded drain. Bearing failure from oil starvation on shutdown is the terminal outcome and can destroy the turbo shaft into the compressor wheel.

    What you would notice

    • Blue or grey smoke from exhaust on overrun or at idle
    • Oil residue around turbo compressor outlet or intercooler piping
    • Audible turbo bearing whine or grinding at high rpm
    • Elevated oil consumption with no visible external leak
    • Oil mist inside intercooler end tanks

    Typically $1,600–$5,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect the ball joint boot for splitting, cracking, or absence of the protective rubber.

    See why

    V35/V36 Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

    The front lower control arms on V35 and V36 Skylines use pressed-in ball joints that are integral to the arm on many variants, requiring full arm replacement when the ball joint wears rather than allowing a simple joint swap. The ball joint boot seal degrades with age and road contamination, allowing grease to escape and moisture and grit to enter the joint. Once the lubricant is contaminated the ball stud wears rapidly, developing excessive axial and radial play. A worn ball joint changes front wheel camber and castor dynamically under cornering and braking loads, producing vague steering and tyre scrub. In advanced wear the joint can separate, causing sudden and catastrophic loss of front wheel geometry control. The V35 used in New Zealand's climate accelerates boot degradation due to gravel road dust and seasonal temperature swings.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during turning
    • Vague or wandering steering feel, particularly under braking
    • Uneven or rapid inner tyre wear on front axle
    • Visible split or missing ball joint boot with grease spray on inner wheel
    • Front end pulling to one side under heavy braking

    Typically $650–$1,900 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Establish whether the turbo is standard ceramic or an upgraded steel/aftermarket unit, and what boost it runs.

    See why

    RB25DET ceramic turbine shatter on GT-T (R34)

    The turbocharged R34 GT-T runs the RB25DET NEO whose factory turbo (on many variants) uses a brittle ceramic exhaust turbine wheel. Under detonation, too much boost, or even repeatedly bouncing off the rev limiter, the ceramic wheel can snap off the shaft and the debris destroys the turbo, sometimes ingesting into the engine. Because so many R34s were tuned or thrashed, an original, un-upgraded ceramic turbo on a modified car is a real risk. A steel-wheel upgrade is the common fix.

    What you would notice

    • Sudden loss of boost / power
    • Whining, grinding or rattling from the turbo
    • Blue/grey smoke from the exhaust
    • Oil in the intercooler piping
    • History of high boost or big power claims

    Typically $2,000–$5,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Pull the sump at purchase if mileage is unknown or high.

    See why

    RB26DETT Oil Pump Pickup Tube Screen Clog

    The oil pump pickup tube mesh screen on the RB26DETT progressively clogs with carbon sludge and metallic debris at high mileage, restricting oil flow to the pump. This causes a rapid drop in oil pressure at high RPM that can lead to bearing failure within minutes. Most common in engines maintained on non-synthetic oil or where the sump has never been cleaned out. Well-documented across GT-R owner communities in NZ and Japan.

    What you would notice

    • Low oil pressure warning light at high RPM
    • Oil pressure gauge drops under hard acceleration
    • Engine knock or tapping under high load
    • Metallic debris on oil drain plug magnet

    Typically $1,800–$4,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Confirm whether the vehicle has DAS (steer-by-wire) by checking the steering column for absence of a direct mechanical shaft feel at low speed.

    See why

    Direct Adaptive Steering (DAS) Steer-by-Wire Intermittent Loss of Assist

    Skyline V37 models equipped with the optional Direct Adaptive Steering (DAS) system use a full steer-by-wire architecture with no mechanical column connection in normal operation. NHTSA opened an investigation (PE14-016) into Infiniti Q50 DAS systems following multiple complaints of intermittent steering effort loss and unexpected steering direction changes at speed. The system defaults to a backup mechanical mode when the electronic actuator faults, but the transition can be abrupt and surprising to the driver. Actuator motor failures and ECU software faults have been documented. Some vehicles received software updates; others required steering actuator replacement. The system's complexity makes independent repair difficult.

    What you would notice

    • Steering warning light illuminated or intermittently flashing during driving
    • Sudden change in steering effort or feel at highway speeds without driver input
    • Momentary loss of power steering assist followed by return to normal
    • System defaulting to mechanical backup mode with noticeably heavier steering feel
    • Stored steering ECU or actuator fault codes on dealer-level scan tool

    Typically $900–$3,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    With the engine running at idle, carefully observe the front crankshaft pulley from a safe distance for any wobble or eccentricity.

    See why

    RB Engine Front Crankshaft Pulley Separation (RB25/RB26)

    The front crankshaft harmonic balancer/pulley on RB25DET and RB26DETT engines is a bonded rubber-damper unit. The rubber bonding layer between the inner hub and outer pulley ring degrades and separates with age, particularly on engines that have been subject to high RPM use. When the outer ring separates it mis-times the alternator, power steering, and AC belt drive; if it contacts surrounding components it can destroy the front timing cover or damage wiring looms. In worst-case separation events the pulley can be expelled from the engine bay entirely. This is a known failure on aged high-km RB engines and is considered a critical safety item.

    What you would notice

    • Wobbling or off-centre movement of the front crankshaft pulley at idle
    • Belt squeal or belt jumping at idle
    • Visible cracking or separation in the rubber ring between inner and outer pulley halves
    • Sudden belt loss at speed
    • Vibration felt through engine at idle

    Typically $600–$1,800 to put right.

See all 41 documented issuesEverything researched for the Nissan Skyline, including 8 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Nissan Skyline has — 41Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling26

01RB25DET Turbo Oil Feed Banjo Bolt Screen Restriction (Stagea C34)

petrol1996–2001Engine
CommonEngine $2,200–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The banjo bolt screen on the RB25DET turbocharger oil feed line becomes partially or fully blocked by carbon deposits and sludge, starving the turbo of lubrication. This is a well-documented failure mode on high-mileage RB25 engines, particularly those with infrequent oil changes or low-quality oil use. Turbo bearing failure follows, producing shaft play, oil burning and eventual seizure.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue smoke from exhaust under boost or on overrun
  • Whining or grinding noise from the turbocharger
  • Shaft play detectable by hand through the intake pipe
  • Oil burning smell and oil consumption increase

What to check

  1. With the engine off and cool, check turbocharger shaft play through the intake by pressing the shaft radially — any perceptible lateral movement indicates bearing wear.
  2. Inspect exhaust for blue smoke under acceleration.
  3. Check engine oil for metallic contamination and smell of burning.

Where to look: Turbocharger oil feed banjo bolt and line, top of RB25 engine

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the turbo oil feed banjo bolt been cleaned or replaced?”
  • “Any history of blue smoke or excessive oil consumption?”
  • “Has the turbocharger been rebuilt or replaced?”

02Turbo Oil Drain Line Coking — Bearing Starvation

Check the interior of the compressor housing for oil coating.petrol1993–2002Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03RB25DET ceramic turbine shatter on GT-T (R34)

Establish whether the turbo is standard ceramic or an upgraded steel/aftermarket unit, and what boost it runs.petrol2000–2002Engine
OccasionalEngine $2,000–$5,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The turbocharged R34 GT-T runs the RB25DET NEO whose factory turbo (on many variants) uses a brittle ceramic exhaust turbine wheel. Under detonation, too much boost, or even repeatedly bouncing off the rev limiter, the ceramic wheel can snap off the shaft and the debris destroys the turbo, sometimes ingesting into the engine. Because so many R34s were tuned or thrashed, an original, un-upgraded ceramic turbo on a modified car is a real risk. A steel-wheel upgrade is the common fix.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of boost / power
  • Whining, grinding or rattling from the turbo
  • Blue/grey smoke from the exhaust
  • Oil in the intercooler piping
  • History of high boost or big power claims

What to check

  1. Establish whether the turbo is standard ceramic or an upgraded steel/aftermarket unit, and what boost it runs.
  2. Check the intercooler pipes for oil, listen for turbo whine/rattle, and be wary of any car making big power on the stock ceramic turbo.
  3. Ask for tuning and turbo history.

Where to look: Turbocharger on the RB25DET (exhaust side of the engine)

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Is the turbo the original ceramic unit or an upgrade?”
  • “How much boost does it run and has it been tuned?”
  • “Has the turbo ever failed?”

04RB26DETT Oil Pump Pickup Tube Screen Clog

Pull the sump at purchase if mileage is unknown or high.petrol1995–2002Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The oil pump pickup tube mesh screen on the RB26DETT progressively clogs with carbon sludge and metallic debris at high mileage, restricting oil flow to the pump. This causes a rapid drop in oil pressure at high RPM that can lead to bearing failure within minutes. Most common in engines maintained on non-synthetic oil or where the sump has never been cleaned out. Well-documented across GT-R owner communities in NZ and Japan.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low oil pressure warning light at high RPM
  • Oil pressure gauge drops under hard acceleration
  • Engine knock or tapping under high load
  • Metallic debris on oil drain plug magnet

What to check

  1. Pull the sump at purchase if mileage is unknown or high.
  2. Inspect pickup tube screen for carbon and sludge.
  3. Check oil for metallic particulate.
  4. Review oil change history — intervals over 5,000 km on mineral oil are high risk.

Where to look: Engine sump, oil pump pickup tube

Ask the seller

  • “What oil type and brand has been used?”
  • “When was the last oil change and how many km ago?”
  • “Has the sump ever been dropped and cleaned?”
  • “Any history of low oil pressure warnings?”

05RB Engine Front Crankshaft Pulley Separation (RB25/RB26)

With the engine running at idle, carefully observe the front crankshaft pulley from a safe distance for any wobble or eccentricity.petrol1993–2002Engine
OccasionalEngine $600–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front crankshaft harmonic balancer/pulley on RB25DET and RB26DETT engines is a bonded rubber-damper unit. The rubber bonding layer between the inner hub and outer pulley ring degrades and separates with age, particularly on engines that have been subject to high RPM use. When the outer ring separates it mis-times the alternator, power steering, and AC belt drive; if it contacts surrounding components it can destroy the front timing cover or damage wiring looms. In worst-case separation events the pulley can be expelled from the engine bay entirely. This is a known failure on aged high-km RB engines and is considered a critical safety item.

Symptoms to notice

  • Wobbling or off-centre movement of the front crankshaft pulley at idle
  • Belt squeal or belt jumping at idle
  • Visible cracking or separation in the rubber ring between inner and outer pulley halves
  • Sudden belt loss at speed
  • Vibration felt through engine at idle

What to check

With the engine running at idle, carefully observe the front crankshaft pulley from a safe distance for any wobble or eccentricity. With the engine OFF, grip the outer ring of the pulley and attempt to rotate it independently of the inner hub — any movement indicates rubber separation. Inspect the rubber bonding strip around the circumference for cracking, bulging, or gaps.

Where to look: Front of engine, lowest driven pulley on the crankshaft snout, below the timing cover

Parts involved: Steering rack, Alternator, Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the crankshaft harmonic balancer been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Has there been any unusual belt noise, squeal, or belt failure?”
  • “What is the engine mileage, and how long has the current owner had the car?”

06V37 turbo/hybrid complexity - limited NZ data

Identify the exact engine (2.0T, 3.0TT VR30, or 3.5 hybrid) as they are very different.petrol2014 onwardEngine
RareEngine $1,500–$6,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V37 Skyline (2014-on) moved to a Mercedes-derived 2.0 turbo (274-series), a twin-turbo 3.0 VR30DDTT, or a 3.5 hybrid, and very few have been imported to NZ so model-specific fault patterns here are thin. Overseas, the VR30DDTT has raised concerns around turbo oil-feed/coolant and the 2.0 turbo shares Mercedes M274 timing-chain and oil-consumption traits, but numbers are too low to call a characteristic NZ fault. Treat a V37 as a modern, complex, dealer-diagnosis car and insist on a marque specialist inspection.

Symptoms to notice

  • Turbo-related power loss or smoke (VR30)
  • Timing/oil-consumption issues on the 2.0 turbo (M274-based)
  • Complex electronics faults
  • Expensive parts/diagnosis

What to check

  1. Identify the exact engine (2.0T, 3.0TT VR30, or 3.5 hybrid) as they are very different.
  2. Get a marque or European-specialist pre-purchase inspection and a full scan.
  3. Verify service history given the complexity and low local support.

Where to look: Engine (turbo/oil systems) and electronics - varies by variant

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Which exact engine is it?”
  • “Has it had specialist servicing and a recent scan?”
  • “What is the full service history?”

07ATTESA-ETS AWD Transfer Case Oil Degradation (Stagea C34/M35)

Check ATTESA transfer case fluid condition and level using the correct Nissan ATF specification — incorrect fluid causes rapid degradation.petrol1996–2007Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08RB20DET Turbocharger Compressor Wheel Wear

Shine a torch into the housing to check for blade-tip contact scoring on the shroud.petrol1989–1994Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09Rear Differential Coupling / eLSD Wear and Failure

During the test drive, make slow full-lock turns in a car park and listen for clunking or binding from the rear.petrol2014–2023Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,500–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V37 Skyline rear-wheel-drive platform uses an electronically-controlled rear differential with a multi-plate clutch coupling for torque vectoring or limited-slip function depending on specification. The coupling's friction clutch packs and the electronic actuator motor are wear items. Failure modes include clunking on tight low-speed turns, vibration under acceleration, and complete lockup or freewheeling of the rear diff coupling. Fluid degradation in the rear differential accelerates wear; the coupling fluid requires separate servicing from the gearbox. High-mileage grey imports from Japan that have not had rear diff fluid serviced are at elevated risk. A failed coupling actuator can cause an AWD or ATTESA warning light in all-wheel-drive variants.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or binding sensation when turning at low speed in car parks
  • Vibration felt through rear floor and seat during acceleration from corners
  • Warning light for rear differential or drivetrain control system
  • Rear diff fluid is dark, metallic, or has not been changed within service history
  • Straight-line pulling under hard acceleration due to uneven rear torque distribution

What to check

  1. During the test drive, make slow full-lock turns in a car park and listen for clunking or binding from the rear.
  2. Under gentle acceleration out of a corner, feel for vibration or hesitation from the rear drivetrain.
  3. Check rear differential fluid for condition — it should be clear or light amber, not dark or metallic.
  4. Inspect the differential housing for seeping seals.
  5. Scan for drivetrain fault codes related to the rear coupling or LSD system.

Where to look: Rear differential housing and electronic coupling actuator, rear axle centre

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the rear differential fluid last changed, and was the electronic coupling fluid also serviced separately?”
  • “Has any clunking, binding, or vibration from the rear been felt when turning or accelerating from corners?”

10VQ timing chain / VTC actuator rattle (V35 & V36)

Cold-start and listen at the front of the engine for a chain/VTC rattle in the first seconds - the 250GT especially.petrol2001–2014Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

11VR30DDTT Valve Stem Seal Oil Consumption

Check the engine oil level against the service record interval and ask owner how often oil is topped up.petrol2019–2023Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

12VQ37VHR Timing Chain Tensioner Wear and Rattle

Start the engine cold (ideally first start of the day) and listen immediately for rattling from the front of the engine in the first 2–10 seconds.petrol2014–2021Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3.7-litre VQ37VHR naturally aspirated V6 uses a timing chain system with hydraulic tensioners. At high mileage or following oil change neglect, the primary and secondary chain tensioners lose hydraulic pressure retention, causing timing chain slack. This manifests as a distinctive metallic rattle on cold start that lasts 2–10 seconds until oil pressure builds. Extended operation with slack chains can cause chain stretch, guide wear, and ultimately timing skew that results in misfires, fault codes, and in severe cases bent valves. The issue is most prevalent in higher-mileage JDM imports where oil change intervals may not be verifiable. The repair requires dropping the front of the engine to access timing components.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or chattering from front of engine on cold start lasting several seconds
  • Rattle disappears or reduces significantly once oil pressure builds after 5–15 seconds
  • Stored cam timing or cam-crank correlation codes (P0011, P0016, P0021, P0018)
  • Rough idle or misfires following chain stretch in severe cases
  • Engine warning light with VVT (VVEL) related fault codes

What to check

  1. Start the engine cold (ideally first start of the day) and listen immediately for rattling from the front of the engine in the first 2–10 seconds.
  2. Scan for cam or crank position correlation fault codes (P0011, P0021, P0016, P0018).
  3. Check oil service history for regularity — irregular changes are a risk factor.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: A stethoscope or mechanic's listening rod held to the timing cover is definitive.
  5. A compression test and cam timing verification confirms severity.

Where to look: Front of VQ37VHR engine, timing chain cover, primary and secondary chain tensioners

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine make a rattling noise for the first few seconds on a cold start, and has this been diagnosed by a mechanic?”
  • “How regularly was the oil changed, and is there a verifiable service history showing intervals shorter than 10,000 km?”

13High oil consumption between services (3.5 VQ35DE, V35 350GT)

petrol2001–2006Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

14VQ37VHR VVEL Variable Valve Event and Lift Actuator Failure

Scan for stored or pending fault codes P1148, P1168, P1178, or P1179 (VVEL actuator position fault bank 1/2).petrol2008–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,400–$3,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The VVEL (Variable Valve Event and Lift) system fitted to the VQ37VHR uses a DC actuator motor and worm-gear mechanism on each cylinder bank to continuously vary both valve lift and duration. The actuator motor brushes and gear mechanism are prone to wear, and the control shaft needle bearings can corrode in humid climates, causing the system to lose position feedback. When the ECM detects an out-of-range actuator response it sets a fault and can restrict engine output to a limp mode to prevent mechanical damage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Check engine light with VVEL actuator position or circuit fault codes, commonly P1148 or P1168
  • Noticeable power loss or flat spot in the mid-to-high rpm range as lift control defaults to a fixed position
  • Buzzing or grinding noise audible from the top of the engine at idle in advanced cases of gear wear

What to check

  1. Scan for stored or pending fault codes P1148, P1168, P1178, or P1179 (VVEL actuator position fault bank 1/2).
  2. With the valve cover removed inspect the actuator motor connector for corrosion and check the worm gear for stripped teeth.
  3. Listen for a buzzing or grinding noise from the cam cover at idle.
  4. Confirm smooth power delivery across the full rev range; VVEL failure often presents as a pronounced flat spot or hesitation above 3000 rpm.

Where to look: Top of each cylinder head, one VVEL actuator assembly per bank beneath the camshaft cover

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever had a VVEL-related check engine light or been diagnosed with actuator codes?”
  • “Is power delivery smooth and linear through the full rev range without any hesitation?”
  • “Has the vehicle been left unused for extended periods in a humid environment?”

15Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

petrol2006–2014Transmission
CommonTransmission $400–$3,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The RE5R05A 5-speed and RE7R01A 7-speed automatic transmissions used in V36 Skyline variants are susceptible to torque converter lock-up clutch shudder, typically triggered by degraded automatic transmission fluid breaking down the clutch friction modifier additive. The lock-up clutch engages at light throttle in higher gears to reduce slip losses; when the friction modifier is depleted the clutch transitions between slip and lock unpredictably, creating a characteristic high-frequency vibration that can be mistaken for a drivetrain imbalance. Continued operation accelerates clutch lining wear and contaminates the ATF with friction material debris, ultimately requiring converter replacement.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic vibration or judder felt through the body at steady highway cruising speed under light throttle in lock-up
  • Shudder that clears immediately when accelerating firmly or decelerating, as the lock-up clutch disengages
  • Dark, burnt-smelling ATF with visible metallic or friction material debris on dipstick or in pan

What to check

  1. Drive the vehicle at steady-state cruise between 60–100 km/h at light throttle in top gear and note any pulsing or judder felt through the seat and floor.
  2. Check ATF condition and level – dark brown, burnt-smelling fluid or fluid with metallic particles confirms degraded condition.
  3. Inspect the transmission pan (if accessible) for friction material sediment.
  4. A transmission fluid flush with Nissan Matic-S or Matic-K to the correct specification often resolves early-stage shudder; persistent shudder after a flush indicates clutch lining wear requiring converter overhaul.

Where to look: Torque converter between engine and automatic transmission, forward of the transmission bell housing

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the automatic transmission fluid last changed, and what fluid specification was used?”
  • “Does the car vibrate or judder at highway speeds under light throttle?”
  • “Has the transmission ever been serviced or had the torque converter replaced?”

16R33 4-Speed Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Wear

Check the transmission fluid via the dipstick — fluid should be pink/red and odourless; black or burnt-smelling fluid indicates neglect.petrol1993–1998Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

17VQ35DE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold Rattle

Cold-start the engine from ambient temperature and listen at the front of the engine for chain rattle duration.petrol2001–2006Engine
CommonEngine $950–$2,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the VQ35DE loses oil pressure after extended shutdown, allowing the chain to slap against the guide at cold start. At high mileage the tensioner ratchet pawl and primary chain guide wear significantly, causing persistent rattle that takes longer than 5 seconds to clear. Left unaddressed, chain stretch can advance to jump-tooth risk on the intake cam sprockets, leading to valve-to-piston contact. Most prevalent above 120,000 km on cars that have seen extended oil change intervals.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or ticking from front of engine for 3-10 seconds on cold start
  • Rattle clears once oil pressure builds but returns after overnight soak
  • Occasional CEL for cam timing deviation (P0011, P0021) at high mileage
  • Visible chain slack visible through cam cover inspection port if present

What to check

Cold-start the engine from ambient temperature and listen at the front of the engine for chain rattle duration. Check oil level and condition — dirty or low oil accelerates wear. Ask for service history to assess oil change frequency. If a workshop inspection is possible: At high mileage request cam timing bank deviation codes from a scan tool.

Where to look: Front of engine block, behind front crankshaft pulley and timing cover — both primary and secondary tensioners accessible after front cover removal

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain tensioner or chain guide ever been replaced?”
  • “What is the oil change interval and which oil specification has been used?”
  • “Has the car ever shown a P0011 or P0021 cam timing code?”
  • “What is the current odometer reading and when was the last service?”

18VQ35HR/VQ25HR Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle on Cold Start

Cold-start the engine and listen for a metallic rattling or ticking from the front of the engine that clears within 10–20 seconds.petrol2006–2014Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic timing chain tensioners on the VQ35HR and VQ25HR engines rely on oil pressure to maintain chain tension. On cold start, the delay in oil pressure build-up allows the primary and secondary chain tensioners to momentarily lose hydraulic load, permitting the chain to slap against the guide rails. Prolonged neglect accelerates guide rail wear and risks chain jump, which causes catastrophic valve-to-piston contact on these interference engines.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling from the front of the engine on cold start that typically quiets after oil pressure builds
  • Persistent rattle that does not clear even when warm, indicating advanced guide rail or tensioner ratchet wear
  • Check engine light with variable valve timing codes (P0011, P0021) if chain stretch causes cam timing deviation

What to check

Cold-start the engine and listen for a metallic rattling or ticking from the front of the engine that clears within 10–20 seconds. With engine warm, remove the oil filler cap and check for grey or milky sludge indicating infrequent oil changes that accelerate tensioner bore wear. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the front timing cover if rattle persists warm to inspect tensioner plunger, ratchet teeth, and chain guide rails for wear or cracking.

Where to look: Front of engine block, behind the front timing cover on both cam-drive chains

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or tensioners ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “What oil change interval has been followed, and what viscosity is used?”
  • “Does the engine make any rattling noise in the first few seconds after cold start?”

19VQ35HR HPFP Cam Follower Wear (P0087)

Pull fault codes before purchase — P0087 or P0088 indicate fuel rail pressure anomalies consistent with HPFP follower wear.petrol2014 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $480–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V37 Skyline uses the VQ35HR engine with Nissan's direct injection system relying on a high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) driven by a dedicated lobe on the intake camshaft. The steel roller follower that transfers cam lobe motion to the HPFP plunger is prone to accelerated wear when oil change intervals are extended or low-viscosity oil outside specification is used. Follower wear reduces the stroke delivered to the pump, causing low rail pressure at high engine load and setting P0087 (fuel rail pressure below target). Severe wear allows metal debris to contaminate the fuel system and can score the cam lobe, adding a camshaft replacement to the repair.

Symptoms to notice

  • P0087 fault code (fuel rail pressure too low) stored or active
  • Hesitation or stumble under hard acceleration, especially above 4000 rpm
  • Cold start roughness that clears once rail pressure builds
  • Metal flakes visible in engine oil at service if follower wear is advanced

What to check

  1. Pull fault codes before purchase — P0087 or P0088 indicate fuel rail pressure anomalies consistent with HPFP follower wear.
  2. Check engine oil service history for correct viscosity specification and interval compliance.
  3. With the cam cover off (specialist inspection), the HPFP follower face should be smooth and domed; a flat or pitted face indicates replacement is required.
  4. Ask when the HPFP follower was last inspected.

Where to look: HPFP cam follower located on the right (passenger-side) intake camshaft, accessible after cam cover removal — HPFP pump body sits above it on the cam cover rail

Parts involved: High-pressure fuel pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever shown a P0087 low fuel pressure fault code?”
  • “Has the high-pressure fuel pump follower been inspected or replaced?”
  • “What oil viscosity and brand has been used and at what change interval?”
  • “Has there been any stumble or hesitation under hard acceleration?”

20RB20 Water Pump Bearing Failure and Impeller Spin

With the engine cold, check for play in the water pump pulley by gripping and rocking — any movement indicates bearing wear.petrol1989–1994Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

21RB25DET NEO Variable Cam Timing (VCT) Oil Control Solenoid Wear

Start the engine cold and listen for rattling or hunting idle in the first 30 seconds.petrol1998–2002Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

22RB25DET Coolant Thermostat Housing Cracking

Locate the thermostat housing on the front of the cylinder head (upper driver's side of the engine).petrol1993–2002Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

23VQ35/VQ37 oil consumption (V35 & V36)

Check the dipstick level and colour and ask how much oil it uses per 1,000 km.petrol2001–2014Engine
CommonEngine $300–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The VQ V6s in the V35/V36 (and the 370GT's VQ37VHR) are known to consume oil as they age, sometimes noticeably before 150,000 km, from worn oil-control rings. Owners cite anything from a litre every 2,500 km to a litre every 1,000 km on worse examples. It is usually a manageable top-up habit, but an owner who doesn't check the level risks starving the timing chain and bearings. Blue smoke and a low dipstick are the tells.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil level down between services
  • Blue haze on start-up or hard acceleration
  • Frequent top-ups
  • Oil light on a car run low

What to check

  1. Check the dipstick level and colour and ask how much oil it uses per 1,000 km.
  2. Watch for blue smoke on a cold start and a throttle blip.
  3. Combine with the timing-chain check, as the two are linked.

Where to look: VQ V6 - oil-control rings / pistons

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “How much oil does it use between services?”
  • “Has it ever been run low on oil?”

24VR30DDTT Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator Rattle

At cold idle listen for metallic rattling from the turbo area.petrol2019–2023Engine
CommonEngine $400–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The twin turbochargers on the VR30DDTT use electronically-controlled wastegate actuators. The actuator arm and pivot develop play over time, causing a metallic rattling noise that is most audible at cold idle and on deceleration. Nissan dealers documented this as a known characteristic in some service communications, but significant play can cause inconsistent boost control, leading to over-boost or under-boost conditions logged as fault codes. On high-mileage examples the actuator can seize in an open position, resulting in reduced power and turbo fault codes. Some affected units also exhibit compressor wheel contact with the housing (wheel rub) if turbo oil feed is neglected.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling noise from engine bay at idle that diminishes as engine warms
  • Rattle audible on deceleration and overrun
  • Stored boost fault codes P0234 or P0299
  • Intermittent hesitation or flat spot under full-throttle acceleration
  • Reduced top-end power output on dyno or spirited driving

What to check

  1. At cold idle listen for metallic rattling from the turbo area.
  2. With engine off and cool, locate each wastegate actuator arm and check for free play by hand — excessive movement beyond 1–2 mm indicates wear.
  3. Scan for boost-related fault codes (P0234 over-boost, P0299 under-boost).
  4. Check turbo oil feed lines for leaks or blockage.
  5. Rev the engine gently and listen for any grinding or metallic scraping suggesting wheel contact.

Where to look: Twin turbocharger wastegate actuators, both turbos mounted low on VR30DDTT engine block

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any rattle been noticed from the engine bay on startup or at idle, and has a mechanic investigated it?”
  • “Has the vehicle thrown any boost-related fault codes or experienced power loss under hard acceleration?”

25GDI Intake Valve Carbon Buildup (VR30DDTT and VQ37VHR)

Connect an OBD2 scanner and check for misfires or lean mixture codes (P0300 series, P0171/P0174).petrol2014–2023Engine
Very commonEngine $700–$1,700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Both the VR30DDTT and VQ37VHR engines use gasoline direct injection (GDI) without supplementary port injection. Because fuel is never sprayed over the intake valves, oil vapour from the PCV system accumulates on the back of the intake valves as hard carbon deposits. Over 60,000–100,000 km the deposits restrict airflow, cause rough idle, misfires, and reduced throttle response. The VQ37VHR is particularly susceptible due to its higher displacement and longer service history on NZ-imported examples. Walnut-blasting is the accepted remedy; carbon deposits cannot be dissolved by fuel additives once hardened.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough idle or intermittent misfire, especially when engine is cold
  • Hesitation or stumble under light throttle from rest
  • Stored misfire codes (P0300–P0306) without obvious ignition cause
  • Reduced fuel economy compared to manufacturer specification
  • Slight loss of power and throttle response above 3000 rpm

What to check

Connect an OBD2 scanner and check for misfires or lean mixture codes (P0300 series, P0171/P0174). Ask when intake valves were last inspected or walnut-blasted. If the vehicle has over 80,000 km and no record of cleaning, assume it needs doing. If a workshop inspection is possible: An endoscope inspection of the intake ports via the throttle body or removed intake manifold confirms severity.

Where to look: Intake valve stems and valve head faces, intake ports on both cylinder banks

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the intake ever been walnut-blasted or mechanically cleaned, and if so at what odometer reading?”
  • “Has the vehicle shown any misfires or rough idle, particularly when cold?”

26VR30DDTT Intercooler Charge Pipe Boost Leak

With engine warm, listen for a hissing sound under light acceleration — a boost leak produces a distinctive hiss or whoosh.petrol2019–2023Engine
CommonEngine $250–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The VR30DDTT uses a front-mount intercooler system with silicone couplers and plastic charge pipes routing compressed air from the turbos to the throttle body. The factory silicone couplers and their retaining clamps are known to loosen or split under repeated heat cycling, causing boost leaks. A boost leak reduces power, triggers a lean mixture condition, and can cause misfires under load. The plastic sections of the charge pipe are also prone to cracking near mounting brackets on higher-mileage examples. On modified or tuned vehicles the factory boost pipes are an early failure point when boost pressure is increased above stock levels.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hissing or whooshing sound from engine bay under acceleration that disappears at idle
  • Loss of power particularly above 3000 rpm under load
  • Stored lean mixture codes P0171 and/or P0174
  • Hesitation or flat spot on boost threshold when pulling in a gear
  • Boost gauge (if fitted) reading below expected peak boost level

What to check

With engine warm, listen for a hissing sound under light acceleration — a boost leak produces a distinctive hiss or whoosh. Inspect all charge pipe silicone couplers and clamps by hand for cracks, splits, or loose clamps. A smoke test via the intake is the definitive diagnostic. Scan for P0171 and P0174 lean mixture codes. On any modified or tuned example, assume charge pipes have been inspected or replaced.

Where to look: Intercooler charge pipes and silicone couplers, front of engine bay between turbos, intercooler, and throttle body

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle had any boost leak diagnosis performed, and have the intercooler charge pipe couplers been replaced or upgraded?”
  • “Has the car been tuned or run above stock boost pressure, and if so what supporting modifications were made to the intake charge pipes?”
Electrical3

01Direct Adaptive Steering (DAS) Steer-by-Wire Intermittent Loss of Assist

Confirm whether the vehicle has DAS (steer-by-wire) by checking the steering column for absence of a direct mechanical shaft feel at low speed.petrol2014–2019Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $900–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Skyline V37 models equipped with the optional Direct Adaptive Steering (DAS) system use a full steer-by-wire architecture with no mechanical column connection in normal operation. NHTSA opened an investigation (PE14-016) into Infiniti Q50 DAS systems following multiple complaints of intermittent steering effort loss and unexpected steering direction changes at speed. The system defaults to a backup mechanical mode when the electronic actuator faults, but the transition can be abrupt and surprising to the driver. Actuator motor failures and ECU software faults have been documented. Some vehicles received software updates; others required steering actuator replacement. The system's complexity makes independent repair difficult.

Symptoms to notice

  • Steering warning light illuminated or intermittently flashing during driving
  • Sudden change in steering effort or feel at highway speeds without driver input
  • Momentary loss of power steering assist followed by return to normal
  • System defaulting to mechanical backup mode with noticeably heavier steering feel
  • Stored steering ECU or actuator fault codes on dealer-level scan tool

What to check

  1. Confirm whether the vehicle has DAS (steer-by-wire) by checking the steering column for absence of a direct mechanical shaft feel at low speed.
  2. During the test drive at varying speeds, check for any momentary loss of steering weight or unexpected steering pull.
  3. Scan for steering system fault codes.
  4. Verify whether the vehicle has received Nissan's DAS software update by checking the build date and dealer service records.
  5. Ask the seller if any steering warning light has appeared.

Where to look: Steering column electronic actuator assembly, steering ECU under dashboard, steering rack actuator

Ask the seller

  • “Does this vehicle have Direct Adaptive Steering (steer-by-wire), and has it received the Nissan software update for the DAS system?”
  • “Has any steering warning light ever appeared, or has the steering feel changed unexpectedly while driving?”

02Electric Power Steering Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2006–2014Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $700–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

EPS system can develop a fault causing loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort especially during low-speed manoeuvring

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering during test drive — any heavy or inconsistent feel indicates a fault.

Where to look: EPS rack and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering failure been inspected or repaired?”

03RB26DETT Ignition Coilpack Failure (GT-R)

Pull each coilpack and inspect the base boot for cracking or carbon tracking (black marks indicating arcing).petrol1998–2002Electrical
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior7

01V35/V36 Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

Inspect the ball joint boot for splitting, cracking, or absence of the protective rubber.petrol2001–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $650–$1,900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arms on V35 and V36 Skylines use pressed-in ball joints that are integral to the arm on many variants, requiring full arm replacement when the ball joint wears rather than allowing a simple joint swap. The ball joint boot seal degrades with age and road contamination, allowing grease to escape and moisture and grit to enter the joint. Once the lubricant is contaminated the ball stud wears rapidly, developing excessive axial and radial play. A worn ball joint changes front wheel camber and castor dynamically under cornering and braking loads, producing vague steering and tyre scrub. In advanced wear the joint can separate, causing sudden and catastrophic loss of front wheel geometry control. The V35 used in New Zealand's climate accelerates boot degradation due to gravel road dust and seasonal temperature swings.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during turning
  • Vague or wandering steering feel, particularly under braking
  • Uneven or rapid inner tyre wear on front axle
  • Visible split or missing ball joint boot with grease spray on inner wheel
  • Front end pulling to one side under heavy braking

What to check

Inspect the ball joint boot for splitting, cracking, or absence of the protective rubber. Rock the wheel to feel for any looseness through the lower arm pivot. Also check for grease contamination on the inner wheel face or surrounding suspension components indicating a split boot. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle safely raised on a hoist, grasp each front wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and apply firm force to check for vertical play in the lower ball joint.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, inboard end (chassis pivot) and outboard ball joint connecting arm to front upright/knuckle

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arms or ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Has any clunking been noticed from the front suspension?”
  • “Are the tyre wear patterns even across the front axle?”
  • “Has the vehicle had a recent wheel alignment, and were any suspension faults noted?”

02Rust at rear arches, sills and strut-tower seams (R34)

Check the rear arch lips and inner arches (inside and out), the sills, and open the bonnet to inspect the strut-tower seams for bubbling.petrol2000–2002Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $800–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

R34 Skylines are now 20-plus years old and corrode in predictable places: the rear wheel-arch lips and inner arches, the sills, and - importantly - the engine-bay strut-tower seams, where bubbling signals structural rust. As values have climbed, cheap 'tidy' cars often hide arch and floor rust under filler. Structural corrosion is expensive to do properly and a WoF/cert problem.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling paint on rear arches and sills
  • Rust or bubbling at the front strut-tower seams
  • Filler/bog cracking on the arches
  • Rust in the boot floor / spare well

What to check

Check the rear arch lips and inner arches (inside and out), the sills, and open the bonnet to inspect the strut-tower seams for bubbling. Use a magnet to find filler over the arches. Look under the boot carpet. Budget for cert-level repair if it is structural.

Where to look: Rear wheel arches (inner and outer), sills, front strut-tower seams, boot floor

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any rust in the arches, sills or strut towers?”
  • “Has it had rust repairs or filler work?”
  • “Will it pass a fresh WoF/cert?”

03Rear Multi-Link Suspension Bush Collapse

Inspect the toe-control link bush first as it controls rear toe and is most critical to handling stability.2006–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $700–$2,100 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V36 Skyline rear suspension uses a five-link multi-link arrangement with rubber-bonded bushes at each link mounting point. The inner and outer bushes in the rear lower lateral links and the toe-control link are particularly susceptible to hydrolytic degradation and cracking, especially in vehicles subjected to NZ road salt, temperature cycling, or sustained high loads. As the rubber deteriorates, the bush inner sleeve becomes decoupled from the outer shell, allowing the link geometry to shift under cornering and braking forces. This produces progressive rear steer behaviour, unpredictable oversteer on mid-corner bumps, and rapid rear tyre wear on the inner shoulder.

Symptoms to notice

  • Progressive looseness or instability in the rear end on cornering or under mid-corner braking
  • Inner-edge rear tyre wear inconsistent with alignment settings or worn unevenly side-to-side
  • Thumping or knocking from the rear suspension over sharp transverse bumps or rutted road surfaces

What to check

Inspect the toe-control link bush first as it controls rear toe and is most critical to handling stability. Check for inner tyre shoulder wear on the rear tyres, which indicates toe or camber deviation from bush failure. A four-wheel alignment printout showing rear toe or camber outside specification on a vehicle with no accident history points to bush collapse. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise the rear of the vehicle and with a pry bar check each rear link bush for rotational and axial movement; separated rubber-to-metal bond is visible as cracking or voids in the rubber.

Where to look: Rear subframe and knuckle mounting points of the lower lateral links, upper links, and toe-control arm on both sides

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear suspension ever had bushes replaced or been inspected by a specialist?”
  • “Does the rear end feel stable and planted on motorway on-ramps or long corners?”
  • “Is there any unusual or uneven wear pattern on the rear tyres?”

04Front Wheel Bearing Premature Wear (ATTESA AWD Stress)

Spin the hub by hand listening for roughness or grumbling.petrol1995–2002Suspension
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

2006–2014Brakes
CommonBrakes $180–$550 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V36 Skyline uses sliding-type brake calipers front and rear, which depend on two grease-lubricated guide pins per caliper to allow the caliper body to float and apply even clamping force across both brake pads. In New Zealand's climate, moisture ingress into the guide pin bores causes the steel pins to corrode and seize within their aluminium caliper carriers, preventing the caliper from retracting fully after brake application. The resulting brake drag causes accelerating heat build-up in the rotor and pad, leading to premature pad and rotor wear, vibration under braking from uneven rotor temperature, and in severe cases thermal cracking of the disc or brake fluid vapour lock from localised overheating.

Symptoms to notice

  • Uneven brake pad wear with the inboard pad worn significantly more than the outboard on the affected caliper
  • One wheel rim noticeably hotter than the others after normal driving, indicating a dragging caliper
  • Pulsation or vibration through the brake pedal caused by uneven rotor wear from thermal cycling under drag conditions

What to check

After a normal drive, carefully check the temperature of each wheel rim by hand — a seized caliper produces a noticeably hotter rim on the affected corner. Inspect brake pad wear side-to-side on each axle; seized pins cause the inboard pad to wear significantly faster than the outboard. Check rotor faces for heat-bluing, scoring, or uneven thickness indicating drag. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the caliper guide pin bolts and attempt to withdraw the pins; a seized pin will resist extraction or show heavy corrosion.

Where to look: Guide pin bores in the brake caliper carrier brackets at each wheel, most commonly the rear calipers which see lower operating temperatures and retain moisture longer

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the brake pads and rotors last replaced, and were the caliper guide pins serviced at the same time?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side under braking, or does the brake pedal pulsate?”
  • “Has any wheel ever felt noticeably hotter than the others after driving?”

06Front multilink bush and lower-arm wear (V35 & V36)

Drive over a rough surface and listen for knocks; check the front tyres for uneven wear.petrol2001–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $500–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V35/V36 Skyline's front multilink suspension has several bushes and ball joints that wear with age and kilometres, giving knocks over bumps, vague or wandering steering and uneven front tyre wear. On a rear-drive sports sedan this dulls the handling the car is bought for and fails WoF. It is not dangerous overnight, but replacing the full set of arms/bushes on both sides adds up.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Knock or clunk over bumps from the front
  • Vague / wandering steering
  • Uneven or feathered front tyre wear
  • Clonk when turning at low speed

What to check

  1. Drive over a rough surface and listen for knocks; check the front tyres for uneven wear.
  2. Rock the wheels and steering with the car parked feeling for play.
  3. A pre-purchase WoF check will list worn front suspension components.

Where to look: Front multilink suspension arms, bushes and ball joints

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front suspension bushes/arms been replaced?”
  • “Does the front knock over bumps or feel vague?”

07Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Clunk

The V36 Skyline uses an electrically-assisted rack-and-pinion steering system.2008–2014Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The V36 Skyline uses an electrically-assisted rack-and-pinion steering system. The rack pinion bearing preload and internal rack support bush are set with precise tolerances from the factory; as these wear or the support bush degrades, the rack develops free play that manifests as a rattle or clunk when the steering wheel is moved slightly at centre or when road surface irregularities feed back through the rack. The EPS motor-to-rack coupling can also develop looseness, adding a mechanical knock synchronised with small steering inputs. Left unaddressed, the play worsens and can trigger EPS control unit fault codes as position sensor readings become inconsistent.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clunking sound from the steering rack area when making small steering corrections or traversing rough pavement
  • EPS warning lamp illuminating intermittently, accompanied by increased steering effort
  • Vague on-centre steering feel or a distinct notch through the steering wheel when returning to centre

What to check

With the vehicle stationary and the engine running, gently oscillate the steering wheel through a few degrees around centre and feel and listen for a rattle or clunk from beneath the dashboard/front crossmember area. Have an assistant rock the steering while you observe the rack from underneath for movement at the rack mounting clamps or between the motor coupling and the pinion shaft. Confirm the steering column universal joint boots are intact and not masking column-origin noise. If a workshop inspection is possible: Check for EPS warning lamp or stored codes with a scan tool.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted to the front subframe, with the EPS assist motor on the rack pinion housing

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the steering ever made a rattling or knocking noise, particularly over rough roads?”
  • “Has the EPS warning lamp ever illuminated, or has the steering felt unusually heavy?”
  • “Has the steering rack or any steering components been replaced?”
Fluid leaks5

01RB26DETT Oil Filter Housing Sealing Face Crack

petrol1998–2002Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $900–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The RB26DETT twin-turbo engine in the R34 GT-R uses a cast-aluminium oil filter housing bolted to the side of the block that also serves as the oil cooler feed and return manifold. The housing casting is subject to stress cracking along the sealing face machined surface, caused by a combination of thermal cycling from high under-bonnet temperatures, overtightening of the oil filter, and corrosion of the aluminium in older examples. A crack in the sealing face causes an oil leak at the filter-to-housing interface that does not respond to oil filter replacement, since the leak originates from the housing face itself rather than the filter thread or gasket. The crack can propagate and in severe cases causes sudden oil pressure loss. The issue is exacerbated on vehicles that have been track used, as repeated heat cycling accelerates the thermal stress.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil leak at oil filter base that persists after filter replacement
  • Visible crack or oil weeping on the aluminium filter housing casting
  • Oil pressure warning light in severe cases
  • Oil residue running down the side of the block from filter area
  • Fresh oil smell from engine bay with no obvious cam cover or sump gasket source

What to check

  1. With engine warm and oil at pressure, inspect the oil filter housing casting closely with a torch for hairline cracks on the sealing face and around the filter thread boss.
  2. Clean the area first with brake cleaner and a rag, then run the engine for 5 minutes and re-inspect for fresh oil appearing specifically from the housing casting rather than the filter-to-housing interface gasket.
  3. Check whether the housing has been previously repaired with JB Weld or sealant as a temporary fix.

Where to look: Passenger-side of engine block (right side when facing engine), oil filter housing casting

Parts involved: Body corrosion, Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the oil filter housing ever been replaced or repaired?”
  • “Is there any oil leak at or near the oil filter?”
  • “What oil filter brand has been used — has it ever been overtightened?”
  • “Has the vehicle been used on track, increasing heat cycling stress?”

02Power Steering Rack Seal Leaks — R33/R34 Shared Rack (Stagea C34/M35)

Inspect both steering rack boots for grease or fluid weeping.petrol1996–2007Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $900–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The power steering rack used across C34 and M35 Stagea shares its design with the R33 and R34 Skyline platform and develops internal seal leaks as the rack ages. Seals harden and crack with heat cycling, causing fluid loss from rack ends and the centre seal. On NZ examples now 20-plus years old, this is a near-universal finding. Left unattended, fluid loss leads to loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid puddle under the front of the car after parking
  • Stiff or heavy steering at low speeds
  • Whine from the power steering pump when on full lock
  • Greasy residue visible around steering rack boots

What to check

  1. Inspect both steering rack boots for grease or fluid weeping.
  2. Check the power steering reservoir level and fluid condition.
  3. With the engine running, turn wheels to full lock in each direction and inspect rack ends and centre area for active seepage.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted behind front subframe

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Any power steering leaks noted, or fluid level requiring top-up?”
  • “Has the power steering rack been rebuilt or replaced?”
  • “Any heaviness in steering at low speed or on full lock?”

03RB Engine Cam Cover and Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal Leaks

Inspect the top of the engine at the cam cover edges with a torch — look for weeping oil darkening the gasket line.petrol1989–2002Fluid Leaks
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04RB25DET Series 2 Fuel Injector O-Ring Leaks

With the engine at operating temperature, open the bonnet and smell around the inlet manifold area.petrol1993–1998Fluid Leaks
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05RB engine oil leaks and abused/modified history (R34)

Look along the cam-cover edges, the front of the engine and the bellhousing area for oil.petrol2000–2002Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $300–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The RB25/RB26 in the R34 develops oil leaks with age - rocker/cam covers, the rear main and the front crank seal are common - and because these cars are enthusiast machines, many have been modified, tracked and thrashed. Oil leaks themselves are moderate, but they are a flag to look harder at how the car has been treated: mismatched parts, blown-past mods, worn synchros and questionable repairs. The clean, standard, well-documented cars are worth paying more for.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil weeping from cam/rocker covers
  • Oil drips under the car / on the sump area
  • Burning-oil smell after a run
  • Signs of heavy modification or track use

What to check

  1. Look along the cam-cover edges, the front of the engine and the bellhousing area for oil.
  2. Assess the overall build quality of any modifications and ask for receipts and tuning history.
  3. A cold, well-documented, standard car is lower risk than a cheap modified one.

Where to look: Cam/rocker covers, front crank seal, rear main seal (bellhousing)

Parts involved: Rocker / valve cover.

Ask the seller

  • “Where is it leaking oil from?”
  • “Has it been modified, tracked or tuned, and do you have records?”
  • “Any recent engine or gearbox work?”

Nissan Skyline faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Nissan Skyline’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Buying guides that cover the Nissan Skyline

Other Nissan models

Nissan Skyline buyer questions

Is the Nissan Skyline reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 41 documented faults for the Nissan Skyline, the recurring problem areas are engine, electrical, and fluid leaks. A Nissan Skyline with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Nissan Skyline?

We've catalogued 41 known faults for the Nissan Skyline, covering engine, electrical, and fluid leaks. All 41 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Nissan Skyline?

Most single repairs on the Nissan Skyline fall between $700–$2,400 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 41 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Nissan Skyline?

Yes. A Nissan Skyline inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.