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Nissan1994–2014 Critical issues documented

Nissan Teana: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Nissan Teana (1994–2014) in New Zealand? We've documented 20 known faults for this model spanning transmission, engine, electrical, and fluid leaks. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Nissan Teana

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

20

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$490–$1,680

Typical repair

7

Systems covered

Which Nissan Teana are you looking at?

5 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Nissan Teana

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Nissan TeanaEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Teana came with 5, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Nissan Teana

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Nissan Teana before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Drive at light throttle between 40–80 km/h and feel for shudder or vibration through the drivetrain.

    See why

    QR25DE CVT Failure and Shudder

    The Jatco CVT paired with the QR25DE 2.5-litre four-cylinder is the most significant known fault on 4-cylinder Teana variants across J31 and L33 generations. Early J31 units (2003–2008) suffer outright CVT failure from belt and pulley wear, particularly on high-mileage JDM imports without transmission service records. L33 units (2013–2022) exhibit CVT shudder at light throttle and overheating under sustained load — a pattern specifically warned about by NRMA and Australian consumer groups. Use of non-Nissan NS-3 CVT fluid or delayed fluid changes greatly accelerates failure. Replacement units from Japan are common but carry their own mileage risk.

    What you would notice

    • Shuddering or vibration during light-throttle acceleration from 40–80 km/h
    • Slipping or flaring RPM with no corresponding acceleration
    • Overheating warning or limp-home mode under sustained highway driving
    • Whining or grinding noise from the transmission tunnel
    • Delayed engagement when selecting Drive or Reverse

    Typically $2,800–$6,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Drive from cold and hot; feel for shudder at 30-50 km/h and any slip where revs rise faster than speed.

    See why

    XTRONIC CVT judder / failure (J32)

    The J32 Teana switched to Nissan's XTRONIC CVT (JF011E family) on the MR20DE and QR25DE, and it is the generation's main worry. Owners report shudder, whine, hesitation and, on neglected examples, failure - the classic 'judder' fault (DTC P17F0) can lock the transmission control module and force a rebuild or replacement. Fluid that was actually changed every ~60,000 km is the key survival factor. A replacement is a large slice of the car's value.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder when accelerating gently from low speed
    • Whine or drone rising with speed
    • Hesitation or delay moving off
    • Jerk between drive and reverse
    • Loss of drive / limp mode

    Typically $3,500–$6,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle from the cam cover area.

    See why

    VQ35DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

    The VQ35DE 3.5-litre V6 fitted to J31, J32, and L33 Teana models shares the well-documented secondary timing chain tensioner failure pattern common across Nissan VQ-series engines. The secondary chain on the driver-side bank loses tensioner pressure as the hydraulic tensioner fatigues, causing a pronounced metallic rattle on cold start that typically clears within 30–60 seconds as oil pressure builds. Continued use risks chain skip and catastrophic valve damage. Oil maintenance history is critical — sludged oil from infrequent changes accelerates tensioner wear and blocks the feed galleries. At the mileages common on NZ JDM imports this fault is frequently already present.

    What you would notice

    • Cold-start metallic rattling from the top of the engine, typically driver's side
    • Rattle clears within 30–60 seconds of warm-up
    • Rattle worsens after overdue oil changes
    • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes in advanced cases

    Typically $900–$2,800 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle.

    See why

    VQ30DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

    The VQ30DE 3.0-litre V6 in A32 and A33 Maxima models is subject to the same secondary timing chain tensioner failure mode as other Nissan VQ-series engines. The hydraulic tensioner on the secondary chain (driver-side bank) weakens with age and oil degradation, allowing chain slack and cold-start rattle. At the age of these vehicles in NZ/AU (23–32 years old in 2026), most examples have already experienced this fault. Chain skip can occur if ignored, bending valves and causing severe engine damage. Only engines with documented tensioner replacement and clean oil history should be considered low risk.

    What you would notice

    • Cold-start metallic rattling from upper engine, clears after 30–60 seconds warm-up
    • Louder rattle after overdue oil changes
    • Possible check engine light if timing has slipped
    • Rough idle in severe cases where chain has jumped a tooth

    Typically $850–$2,600 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test drive and feel for vibration at 20-60 km/h under light throttle.

    See why

    CVT RE0F09A Belt Judder

    The Teana CVT develops shudder from belt and pulley wear. Very common on examples used for urban short trips. Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid is critical — incorrect fluid accelerates belt damage.

    What you would notice

    • Rhythmic shudder or buzz from drivetrain during light acceleration
    • CVT fluid that is dark rather than the correct clear pink with a burnt smell

    Typically $600–$3,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check for cracked or split ball joint boots leaking grease.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

    Front lower control arm ball joints on J31 and J32 Teana models wear prematurely, particularly on JDM import examples that have accumulated 80,000–150,000 km before NZ or AU registration. The original ball joints are not independently serviceable on some variants, requiring full lower arm replacement. Failed ball joints produce clunking over bumps and compromise steering geometry, leading to tyre wear and handling instability. NZ road conditions and the age of these imports make this a near-universal WOF advisory finding.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking from front suspension over bumps or when turning on full lock
    • Vague or wandering steering
    • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear
    • Visible play when wheel is shaken at 9 and 3 o'clock positions

    Typically $350–$900 to put right.

See all 20 documented issuesEverything researched for the Nissan Teana, including 4 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Nissan Teana has — 20Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling11

01QR25DE CVT Failure and Shudder

Drive at light throttle between 40–80 km/h and feel for shudder or vibration through the drivetrain.petrol2007–2013TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02XTRONIC CVT judder / failure (J32)

Drive from cold and hot; feel for shudder at 30-50 km/h and any slip where revs rise faster than speed.petrol2008–2014Transmission
CommonTransmission $3,500–$6,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The J32 Teana switched to Nissan's XTRONIC CVT (JF011E family) on the MR20DE and QR25DE, and it is the generation's main worry. Owners report shudder, whine, hesitation and, on neglected examples, failure - the classic 'judder' fault (DTC P17F0) can lock the transmission control module and force a rebuild or replacement. Fluid that was actually changed every ~60,000 km is the key survival factor. A replacement is a large slice of the car's value.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder when accelerating gently from low speed
  • Whine or drone rising with speed
  • Hesitation or delay moving off
  • Jerk between drive and reverse
  • Loss of drive / limp mode

What to check

  1. Drive from cold and hot; feel for shudder at 30-50 km/h and any slip where revs rise faster than speed.
  2. Listen for a whine.
  3. Ask for CVT fluid-change receipts.
  4. Have it scanned for CVT judder codes - a stored P17F0 can't be cleared without replacing the unit.

Where to look: XTRONIC CVT transaxle (front)

Ask the seller

  • “When was the CVT fluid last changed?”
  • “Has the CVT ever juddered or been replaced?”
  • “Any stored transmission fault codes?”

03VQ35DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle from the cam cover area.petrol2003–2008EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04VQ30DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle

Cold-start the engine immediately and listen for chain rattle.petrol1994–2003EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05A32 RE4F04A Automatic Transmission Slipping

Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).petrol1994–2000Transmission
CommonTransmission $2,450–$4,900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The RE4F04A four-speed automatic fitted to A32 Maximas with VQ20DE is prone to clutch pack wear and solenoid failure, producing delayed or slipping gear engagement, particularly from 2nd to 3rd. Fluid oxidation from missed services accelerates wear. Rebuilds are possible but a quality remanufactured unit is the more reliable long-term repair. Transmission fluid colour and shift quality should be checked at pre-purchase.

Symptoms to notice

  • Transmission slipping between gears
  • Harsh or delayed gear changes
  • Transmission fluid leak

What to check

  1. Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).
  2. Test shift quality through all gears.
  3. Look for slipping, delay or harsh engagement.

Parts involved: Clutch.

06VQ timing-chain / VTC rattle (J31)

Cold-start with the bonnet up and listen for a chain/VTC rattle in the first seconds.petrol2003–2008Engine
CommonEngine $2,000–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The J31 Teana's VQ23DE/VQ25DE (and VQ35 in some) V6 shares the VQ family's timing-chain and VTC-actuator wear, giving a rattle - typically a brief rattle on cold start that worsens with age and skipped oil changes. Left too long a stretched chain skips and throws timing codes. It is a maintenance-sensitive item, so a J31 with a clean oil history and no cold-start rattle is the one to have.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle from the front of the engine on cold start
  • Rough idle
  • Rattle under light load
  • Check-engine light with cam/crank timing codes

What to check

  1. Cold-start with the bonnet up and listen for a chain/VTC rattle in the first seconds.
  2. Ask for oil-change receipts and whether the chains have been done.
  3. Scan for timing codes.

Where to look: Timing chains and VTC actuators at the front of the VQ V6

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does it rattle on cold start?”
  • “Have the timing chains/VTC actuators been replaced?”
  • “How regularly was the oil changed?”

07CVT RE0F09A Belt Judder

Test drive and feel for vibration at 20-60 km/h under light throttle.petrol2003–2014Transmission
Very commonTransmission $600–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Teana CVT develops shudder from belt and pulley wear. Very common on examples used for urban short trips. Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid is critical — incorrect fluid accelerates belt damage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic shudder or buzz from drivetrain during light acceleration
  • CVT fluid that is dark rather than the correct clear pink with a burnt smell

What to check

Test drive and feel for vibration at 20-60 km/h under light throttle. CVT fluid darker than clear pink indicates degraded fluid.

Where to look: CVT gearbox in engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “Has the cvt re0f09a belt judder been inspected or repaired?”

08VQ23DE Valve Stem Seal Oil Consumption

Check oil level frequently.petrol2003–2008Engine
CommonEngine $600–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

VQ23DE 2.3 V6 valve stem seals harden and shrink causing oil consumption and blue smoke on startup and engine braking.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue smoke from exhaust on startup and engine braking
  • Oil level requiring top-up between regular service intervals

What to check

  1. Check oil level frequently.
  2. Consumption above 1 litre per 5000km is abnormal.
  3. Look for blue smoke from exhaust on startup after overnight park.

Where to look: Valve stem seals in both cylinder heads

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vq23de valve stem seal oil been inspected or repaired?”

09A32 / A33 Rear Suspension Crossmember Rust

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol1994–2004Engine
CommonEngine $840–$1,680 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear multi-link suspension crossmember on A32 and A33 Maximas traps moisture and corrodes from the inside out in NZ and southern Australian conditions. External surfaces may look acceptable while internal sections are structurally compromised. Severe corrosion can allow suspension geometry to shift under load or mounting points to fracture. WOF inspectors in NZ increasingly flag this. Sandblasting and encapsulation or crossmember replacement is required.

Symptoms to notice

  • Evidence of engine wear or deterioration
  • Warning light or abnormal behaviour noted during operation

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

10VQ Engine Coolant Bypass Hose Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrolEngine
CommonEngine $490–$980 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

A short rubber bypass hose routed behind the intake plenum on both VQ20DE and VQ30DE engines is inaccessible without partial disassembly. The hose hardens, cracks, and fails without visible warning, causing rapid coolant loss and overheating within minutes. By the time the temperature gauge rises sharply, head gasket damage has often already occurred. Proactive replacement at timing belt service is strongly recommended.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine overheating under load
  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Timing belt, Head gasket.

11MR20DE / QR25DE oil consumption (J32)

Check the dipstick level and colour; ask how much oil it uses per 1,000 km.petrol2008–2014Engine
CommonEngine $300–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The J32 Teana's four-cylinder MR20DE and QR25DE engines are prone to rising oil consumption with age from worn rings, needing top-ups between services. In a quiet, refined car it is easy for an owner not to notice the level dropping until it is low, which then accelerates chain and bearing wear and can foul the cat. It is a slow-burn issue, but combined with the CVT it makes a documented service history essential.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil level down between services
  • Blue haze on start-up or hard acceleration
  • Regular top-ups needed
  • Catalyst-efficiency light on high-km cars

What to check

  1. Check the dipstick level and colour; ask how much oil it uses per 1,000 km.
  2. Watch for blue smoke on a cold start and a throttle blip.
  3. Confirm there is no persistent engine light.

Where to look: Engine - rings and valve seals (MR20DE / QR25DE)

Ask the seller

  • “How much oil does it use between services?”
  • “Has it ever been run low on oil?”
Electrical2

01Electric Power Steering Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2003–2014Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $700–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

EPS system can develop a fault causing loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden or gradual loss of power steering assistance with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring significant effort at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — any heavy or inconsistent feel indicates a fault.

Where to look: EPS rack and column assembly

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering failure been inspected or repaired?”

02Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Bearing Failure

Test AC during test drive.2003–2014Electrical
CommonElectrical $400–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

AC compressor clutch bearing wears causing squealing when AC is engaged.

Symptoms to notice

  • Squealing or grinding noise from engine front when AC is switched on
  • Noise stops when AC is switched off

What to check

  1. Test AC during test drive.
  2. Listen for squealing from engine front when AC engaged.

Where to look: AC compressor on front of engine

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the air conditioning compressor clutch bearing been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior6

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure

Check for cracked or split ball joint boots leaking grease.petrol2003–2013Suspension
Very commonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front lower control arm ball joints on J31 and J32 Teana models wear prematurely, particularly on JDM import examples that have accumulated 80,000–150,000 km before NZ or AU registration. The original ball joints are not independently serviceable on some variants, requiring full lower arm replacement. Failed ball joints produce clunking over bumps and compromise steering geometry, leading to tyre wear and handling instability. NZ road conditions and the age of these imports make this a near-universal WOF advisory finding.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps or when turning on full lock
  • Vague or wandering steering
  • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear
  • Visible play when wheel is shaken at 9 and 3 o'clock positions

What to check

  1. Check for cracked or split ball joint boots leaking grease.
  2. Inspect lower arm for corrosion at the ball joint mount.
  3. Ask for recent WOF advisory history.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, attempt to move the front wheels by hand and watch for play in the lower ball joint.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, outboard ball joint end, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the front lower control arms or ball joints last replaced?”
  • “Does the car have any current or recent WOF advisories for front suspension?”
  • “Has there been any clunking from the front end?”

02Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect ball joint boot condition visually for cracking or grease loss.petrol1994–2003Suspension
Very commonSuspension $300–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front lower control arm ball joints on A32 and A33 Maxima models wear to the point of failure at this age, especially on examples that have been lowered or used hard. The ball joint boot cracks, allowing water and grit ingress that rapidly accelerates wear. Many NZ A32/A33 Maximas present with significant ball joint play that fails WOF inspection. Replacement lower arms are available aftermarket but quality varies widely.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension, especially over speed bumps or rough roads
  • Steering wander or vague feel
  • WOF failure or advisory for ball joint play
  • Accelerated or uneven front tyre wear

What to check

  1. Inspect ball joint boot condition visually for cracking or grease loss.
  2. Check lower arm inner bush condition at the same time.
  3. Request WOF history for any suspension advisories.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With car on a hoist, grasp wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock — any movement indicates ball joint wear.

Where to look: Front lower control arm ball joint, outboard end, left and right

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the front lower arms or ball joints last replaced?”
  • “Has the car had any WOF advisories or failures for front suspension?”
  • “Is there any clunking or noise from the front end?”

03Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2003–2014Brakes
CommonBrakes $200–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One front disc hotter than the other after use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins for movement.

Where to look: Front brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

04Front suspension bush and top-mount wear (J31)

Drive over a rough patch and listen for knocks; check the front tyres for uneven wear and rock the front corners for play.petrol2003–2008Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The J31 Teana was sold as a soft, comfortable executive sedan, and its front lower-arm bushes and strut top mounts wear out on our roads, producing knocks over bumps, vague steering and uneven front tyre wear. On a high-km import the front end can feel loose and float. It is a WoF item and, once several bushes and mounts need doing together, a noticeable bill.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knock or clunk over bumps from the front
  • Vague / wandering steering
  • Uneven front tyre wear
  • Floaty ride

What to check

Drive over a rough patch and listen for knocks; check the front tyres for uneven wear and rock the front corners for play. A pre-purchase WoF will list worn suspension parts.

Where to look: Front lower-arm bushes and strut top mounts

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front bushes/strut mounts been replaced?”
  • “Does the front knock over bumps?”

05Rear Suspension Multi-Link Bush Collapse

Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking.2003–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and handling imprecision.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces
  • Imprecise rear handling feel

What to check

  1. Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking.
  2. Push arms — any movement indicates collapsed bushes.

Where to look: Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear suspension multi-link bush collapse been inspected or repaired?”

06Sun-damaged dashboard cracking and sagging headlining (JDM imports)

Look across the top of the dash in daylight for cracks and lift-checking.petrol2003–2014Interior
CommonInterior $200–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Teanas sold as JDM imports lived in Japan's hot, humid summers, and their soft-touch dashboards and glued headlinings suffer for it: dash tops crack or go sticky, and the roof lining sags away from the shell, especially near the rear and the sunroof. It is cosmetic rather than mechanical, but a cracked dash and drooping headliner are expensive to put right properly and drag the car's presentation down. Very common on these comfort-oriented imports.

Symptoms to notice

  • Cracks or bubbling on the dash top
  • Sticky/soft dashboard surface
  • Headlining sagging away from the roof
  • Sun-faded trim near the windows

What to check

Look across the top of the dash in daylight for cracks and lift-checking; press the headlining, especially at the back and around any sunroof, to see if it is coming away. Factor a retrim into your offer if it is bad.

Where to look: Dashboard top surface and roof headlining

Ask the seller

  • “Is the dash cracked or the headliner sagging?”
  • “Has any interior trim been redone?”
Fluid leaks1

01Power Steering Rack End Seal Leak

With bonnet open, check the power steering fluid reservoir level and fluid colour.petrol1994–2003Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Nissan Teana faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

Power Steering Rack End Seal LeakMajor · Fluid LeaksQR25DE CVT Failure and ShudderCritical · TransmissionVQ30DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner RattleCritical · EngineVQ35DE Secondary Timing Chain Tensioner RattleCritical · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Nissan Teana’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Nissan models

Nissan Patrol48 documented faultsNissan Navara45 documented faultsNissan X-Trail45 documented faultsNissan Tiida20 documented faultsNissan Sylphy18 documented faultsNissan Cube17 documented faults

Nissan Teana buyer questions

Is the Nissan Teana reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 20 documented faults for the Nissan Teana, the recurring problem areas are transmission, engine, and electrical. A Nissan Teana with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Nissan Teana?

We've catalogued 20 known faults for the Nissan Teana, covering transmission, engine, and electrical. All 20 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Nissan Teana?

Most single repairs on the Nissan Teana fall between $490–$1,680 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 20 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Nissan Teana?

Yes. A Nissan Teana inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.