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SsangYong Korando: 2.0 e-XDi injector and turbocharger wear — power loss past 100,000 km

2.0 e-XDi injector and turbocharger wear — power loss past 100,000 km is a common engine fault on the SsangYong Korando on the 2011–2019 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $900 to $4,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 9 documented faults on the SsangYong Korando.

Vehicle
SsangYong Korando
Engine
2.0L
Years
2011–2019
Fuel
diesel
System
Engine

This page covers the SsangYong Korando as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All SsangYong Korando faults9 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

What goes wrong

The 2.0 e-XDi diesel loses power and starts drinking fuel somewhere past 100,000 to 120,000 km, and the two components behind it are the injectors and the turbocharger. Injector wear shows as hard starting, heavy smoke on a cold morning, a rough idle and power that comes and goes. Turbo wear shows as a flat spot under load. The diesel particulate filter suffers alongside them, particularly on cars that have done mostly short town trips, because the filter never gets hot enough to clear itself. These three faults arrive together and feed each other, which is why an owner usually describes it as "it just isn't as good as it was" rather than as a fault. On a car of this value the repair is significant, so it is worth provoking properly on the test drive rather than taking a gentle run around the block.

What you would notice

  • Hard starting, or long cranking from cold
  • Heavy smoke on a cold start, or under acceleration
  • Rough idle, especially before it warms up
  • Noticeable loss of power, or a flat spot when accelerating hard
  • Fuel economy noticeably worse than it used to be

How to check it

Where to look. Engine — diesel injectors, turbocharger and the diesel particulate filter

Be there for a cold start, because that is where the injectors show themselves. Watch and listen as it fires: it should catch within a second or two and settle evenly, not crank repeatedly or shake for the first half minute, and stand at the back to watch how much smoke comes out and what colour it is. With the bonnet up at idle, listen for one cylinder sounding harsher than the others and for a diesel smell around the top of the engine. Then load it on the drive — find a hill or an on-ramp and accelerate hard through it more than once, feeling whether it pulls cleanly all the way or goes flat partway, and listening for a whistle or unusual note from the turbo. Watch the dash throughout for a warning light. Ask what driving the car does, since short town trips are what block the particulate filter, and ask when the fuel filter was last changed. Ask whether the turbo or any injector has been replaced. If a workshop inspection is possible: an injector leak-off test and a boost pressure check separate the two, which matter differently to your offer.

Parts involved: Turbocharger, Fuel injector.

What it costs to put right

$900 to $4,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Does it start first turn from cold, and does it smoke?”
  • “What sort of driving does it do — short town trips or open road?”
  • “Has the turbo or any injector ever been replaced?”

Now check the SsangYong Korando you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

SsangYong Korando buyer questions

Is 2.0 e-xdi injector and turbocharger wear — power loss past 100,000 km serious on a SsangYong Korando?

We rate it major and common on the SsangYong Korando. The 2.0 e-XDi diesel loses power and starts drinking fuel somewhere past 100,000 to 120,000 km, and the two components behind it are the injectors and the turbocharger. Injector wear shows as hard starting, heavy smoke on a cold morning, a rough idle and power that comes and goes. Turbo wear shows as a flat spot under load. The diesel particulate filter suffers alongside them, particularly on cars that have done mostly short town trips, because the filter never gets hot enough to clear itself. These three faults arrive together and feed each other, which is why an owner usually describes it as "it just isn't as good as it was" rather than as a fault. On a car of this value the repair is significant, so it is worth provoking properly on the test drive rather than taking a gentle run around the block.

How much does it cost to fix on a SsangYong Korando?

$900 to $4,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which SsangYong Korando years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2011–2019 SsangYong Korando. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Be there for a cold start, because that is where the injectors show themselves. Watch and listen as it fires: it should catch within a second or two and settle evenly, not crank repeatedly or shake for the first half minute, and stand at the back to watch how much smoke comes out and what colour it is. With the bonnet up at idle, listen for one cylinder sounding harsher than the others and for a diesel smell around the top of the engine. Then load it on the drive — find a hill or an on-ramp and accelerate hard through it more than once, feeling whether it pulls cleanly all the way or goes flat partway, and listening for a whistle or unusual note from the turbo. Watch the dash throughout for a warning light. Ask what driving the car does, since short town trips are what block the particulate filter, and ask when the fuel filter was last changed. Ask whether the turbo or any injector has been replaced. If a workshop inspection is possible: an injector leak-off test and a boost pressure check separate the two, which matter differently to your offer. Look here: Engine — diesel injectors, turbocharger and the diesel particulate filter