SsangYong Korando: common faults & what to check

Which SsangYong Korando are you looking at?

4 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Petrol

2 variants documented

2011–2019C2002011–2019C2002.0 petrolPetrolDocumented issues3 knownSee faults & what to checkPhoto: Vauxford via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

2019–nowC3002019–nowC3001.5 turbo petrolPetrolDocumented issues4 knownSee faults & what to checkPhoto: Alexander Migl via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Diesel

2 variants documented

2011–2019C2002011–2019C2002.0 dieselDieselDocumented issues4 knownSee faults & what to checkPhoto: Vauxford via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

2019–nowC3002019–nowC3001.6 dieselDieselDocumented issues1 knownSee faults & what to checkPhoto: Alexander Migl via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this SsangYong Korando

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

The checks worth doing on a SsangYong Korando before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

• Serious issue

  Drive it from cold and then again warm, because this gearbox behaves differently at each.

  See why

  Automatic gearbox jerky shifts and sticking in one gear

  The automatic in the Korando starts causing trouble unusually early — owners report problems from 60,000 to 80,000 km, particularly on cars from 2012 onward. It shows as jerky gear changes and, in the worse cases, the gearbox getting stuck in one gear and refusing to change. That is early enough that a car with reasonable mileage can already be affected, so the kilometres on the clock are not much reassurance here. The test that finds it is an ordinary one — drive the car through its whole gear range, cold and warm, in traffic and on a straight — but it has to actually be done, because a gearbox that jerks once in five minutes of gentle driving will feel fine on a short test drive.

  What you would notice

  • Jerky or harsh gear changes, particularly when cold
  • Gearbox sticking in one gear and refusing to change
  • Long pause before Drive or Reverse engages
  • Slipping — revs rising without matching speed
  • Transmission warning light, or the car dropping into a reduced mode

  Typically $600–$5,500 to put right.

• Serious issue

  Check the coolant level cold, then look at the radiator itself.

  See why

  Radiator end tank cracking from material fatigue

  A less well-known but serious fault on 2011 to 2014 cars: the plastic end tank on the radiator cracks through material fatigue. Coolant is then lost gradually rather than dramatically, and because the crack is often a hairline that only opens under pressure when the system is hot, the car can look completely dry when you inspect it cold. That is what makes it dangerous — the loss is slow, the driver tops it up or does not notice, and the first real symptom is overheating, which on any engine can turn a cheap radiator into a cylinder head. The radiator itself is not an expensive part. Missing it is what costs money.

  What you would notice

  • Coolant level dropping with no obvious puddle underneath
  • Sweet smell, or steam from the engine bay after a drive
  • Dried coloured residue on or below the radiator
  • Temperature gauge climbing in traffic, or the heater blowing cool
  • Needing to top up the coolant regularly

  Typically $400–$1,500 to put right.

• Costly issue

  Be there for a cold start, because that is where the injectors show themselves.

  See why

  2.0 e-XDi injector and turbocharger wear — power loss past 100,000 km

  The 2.0 e-XDi diesel loses power and starts drinking fuel somewhere past 100,000 to 120,000 km, and the two components behind it are the injectors and the turbocharger. Injector wear shows as hard starting, heavy smoke on a cold morning, a rough idle and power that comes and goes. Turbo wear shows as a flat spot under load. The diesel particulate filter suffers alongside them, particularly on cars that have done mostly short town trips, because the filter never gets hot enough to clear itself. These three faults arrive together and feed each other, which is why an owner usually describes it as "it just isn't as good as it was" rather than as a fault. On a car of this value the repair is significant, so it is worth provoking properly on the test drive rather than taking a gentle run around the block.

  What you would notice

  • Hard starting, or long cranking from cold
  • Heavy smoke on a cold start, or under acceleration
  • Rough idle, especially before it warms up
  • Noticeable loss of power, or a flat spot when accelerating hard
  • Fuel economy noticeably worse than it used to be

  Typically $900–$4,500 to put right.

• Costly issue

  Insist on a cold-start inspection.

  See why

  G15DTP 1.5T Cold-Start Timing Chain Rattle

  The updated 1.5-litre turbocharged petrol (G15DTP) in the C-generation Korando exhibits cold-start timing chain rattle caused by chain stretch and slow tensioner pressurisation after cold soak. The rattle is most pronounced at temperatures below 10°C and typically clears within 15-20 seconds. Prolonged or worsening rattle indicates chain stretch beyond acceptable limits. Documented by NZ and AU Korando owners and is consistent with the same drivetrain pattern seen in the Tivoli G15DTF. Independent workshops report the chain tensioner is the primary failure item.

  What you would notice

  • Metallic rattle from engine front on cold start, especially in winter
  • Rattle persisting beyond 20 seconds as wear progresses
  • Cam timing DTCs stored when cold
  • Slightly rough cold-idle accompanying the rattle

  Typically $1,300–$2,600 to put right.

• Costly issue

  Check the dash for any active warning lights on start-up.

  See why

  Electrical/sensor faults and unresolved check-engine lights (C300)

  The current C300 Korando (1.5 turbo petrol / 1.6 diesel) has a mixed reliability record dominated by electrical and sensor complaints. Owners report faults appearing after roughly 40,000-60,000 km affecting the electrical system, sensors and central locking, and several describe recurring check-engine lights (including cruise-control and throttle-actuator faults) that dealers struggled to clear. Quality is otherwise reasonable but the electronics are the weak spot.

  What you would notice

  • Recurring check-engine light
  • Cruise control or throttle-actuator faults
  • Central-locking or sensor glitches
  • Unexpected warning messages

  Typically $200–$1,500 to put right.

• Costly issue

  Do the first part of the drive from cold and note any jerkiness, slip or delayed engagement.

  See why

  Aisin 6-speed automatic jerky/slipping when cold

  C200 Korandos with the Aisin 6-speed automatic are reported to shift jerkily, slip, and engage with a delay into drive or reverse, most noticeable on cold starts or after extended driving. A fluid service can help early on; a neglected or badly worn unit can need major work.

  What you would notice

  • Jerky shifts, especially when cold
  • Slipping (revs rise without matching acceleration)
  • Delayed engagement into D or R
  • Vibration under load

  Typically $1,200–$4,500 to put right.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the SsangYong Korando’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

• Cambelt Replacement Cost
• Timing Chain Replacement Cost
• Diesel Injector Replacement Cost
• Turbo Repair and Replacement Cost

Other SsangYong models