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Tesla2017–2024 Critical issues documented

Tesla Model 3: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Tesla Model 3 (2017–2024) in New Zealand? We've documented 19 known faults for this model spanning suspension, electrical, cooling, and body & rust. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Tesla Model 3

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

19

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$500–$1,800

Typical repair

18

Service milestones

Which Tesla Model 3 are you looking at?

4 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Tesla Model 3

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Tesla Model 3Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Model 3 came with 4, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Tesla Model 3

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Tesla Model 3 before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Check the 12V battery date code (located in the frunk on Model 3).

    See why

    12V auxiliary battery failure — no-start condition

    Tesla Model 3 uses a small 12V lead-acid auxiliary battery (later lithium on some variants) to power the low-voltage control systems, door handles, and high-voltage contactor relay. When this battery fails, the HV traction pack is rendered inaccessible because the contactors cannot close — the car appears completely dead despite a full HV charge. Owners are locked out, the app loses connection, and the car cannot be driven or charged. The 12V battery typically lasts 3–5 years and fails without warning. NZ/AU humidity and temperature cycling accelerates plate sulphation. Tesla service has documented this as one of the most common roadside assistance call-out reasons.

    What you would notice

    • Car completely unresponsive — no door handle extension, no app connection
    • Touchscreen fails to wake when approaching car
    • Charging cable locked in and car will not start
    • Low 12V warning on touchscreen shortly before failure
    • Repeated false alerts and self-waking events draining 12V overnight

    Typically $350–$900 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect the ball joint boot for cracking or grease expulsion.

    See why

    Front lower control arm ball joint separation

    NHTSA opened investigation PE20-020 in 2020 following multiple reports of front suspension lower control arm ball joint fracture on early Model 3 vehicles. The ball joint connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle; if the joint separates while driving, the wheel collapses inward, causing immediate loss of steering and braking control. The failure can occur without audible warning on road surfaces with sharp impacts.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during cornering
    • Steering wheel shimmy at highway speeds
    • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front axle
    • Vehicle pulling noticeably to one side

    Typically $750–$2,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Verify heat pump operation by running climate heat in cold mode and checking outlet temperature.

    See why

    Heat pump refrigerant line fitting corrosion

    The aluminium refrigerant line fittings connecting the heat pump circuit corrode at the junction with the steel firewall bracket, causing progressive refrigerant loss. Affected vehicles lose cabin heating and show reduced range in cold weather. Tesla issued a service bulletin and has replaced fittings under warranty on some vehicles. The fault worsens over time — small leaks become total refrigerant loss if left unaddressed.

    What you would notice

    • Loss of cabin heat in cold weather
    • Reduced driving range in winter conditions
    • HVAC system blowing cold or ambient air only
    • Climate or thermal management warning on touchscreen

    Typically $1,200–$3,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    On the test drive set the climate to HI and confirm hot air arrives within a couple of minutes, and run the air conditioning to confirm it blows cold.

    See why

    Heat pump / Octovalve faults causing loss of cabin heating

    Heat pump cars (fitted from the 2021 refresh) can lose cabin heating and demisting. A software fault left the electronic expansion valve (EXV) open, trapping refrigerant in the evaporator and shutting down the compressor — this triggered US recall 22V-050 and was fixed over the air with firmware 2021.44.30.7. Hardware failures of the compressor, Octovalve or sensors also occur and are expensive because few independent workshops touch Tesla refrigerant systems. In NZ winters a failed heat pump means no heat and a windscreen that will not demist, which is a warrant-of-fitness safety issue.

    What you would notice

    • No warm air from vents on a cold morning
    • Windscreen will not demist
    • Climate system alert on the screen
    • Loud clicking or droning from under the front boot area

    Typically $2,000–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Then grasp at 3 and 9 o'clock and repeat.

    See why

    Front lower control arm ball joint premature wear

    The front lower control arm ball joint on Model 3 wears prematurely due to the combination of the vehicle's high kerb weight (1,800–2,100 kg depending on variant), a press-fit ball joint that is not separately serviceable, and a tight ball-joint boot prone to tearing on New Zealand and Australian road surfaces. Worn ball joints produce knocking on uneven surfaces, affect steering geometry, and in advanced cases pose a safety risk from joint separation. Tesla has addressed some cases under warranty and a quiet service campaign for high-mileage vehicles, but no universal recall has been issued. The entire lower control arm must be replaced because the joint is not sold separately.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over speed bumps and potholes
    • Steering wander or vague on-centre feel
    • Uneven front tyre wear, particularly inner edge
    • Vibration through steering wheel at certain speeds
    • Audible pop when turning at low speed with suspension loaded

    Typically $900–$2,800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Ask to drive the car in a tight circle at low speed under gentle power while listening for clicking.

    See why

    Rear half-shaft CV joint wear and clicking

    The Model 3 transmits torque from the rear motor to each rear wheel via constant-velocity (CV) half-shafts. The inboard and outboard CV joints are subject to accelerated wear in Performance variants where instant peak torque (430-670 Nm at the axle) is applied repeatedly from standstill. The tripod-type inboard joint wears its needle bearings unevenly under sustained high-torque launches, producing a characteristic clicking or clunking sound during low-speed acceleration. Worn CV boots — cracked from heat or age — accelerate failure by allowing grease expulsion and grit ingress. Replacement requires the entire half-shaft assembly.

    What you would notice

    • Rhythmic clicking or clunking from the rear when accelerating from low speed
    • Sound worsens on full-throttle launches or during tight turning under power
    • Grease flung onto the inner wheel arch or suspension components
    • Vibration through the floor under hard acceleration

    Typically $700–$1,800 to put right.

Tesla Model 3 service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Tesla Model 3. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Model 3 Highland (Facelift) · 2024–2026 · Performance - Dual Motor High Output

Electric

Due by distance

  1. 20,000 km

    First cabin filter change, plus a look over the fluid levels.

  2. 40,000 km

    Brake fluid gets a health check and the suspension is given a general inspection.

  3. 80,000 km

    The drive unit cooling system needs a full flush, and a battery health diagnostic report should be run.

Model 3 Highland (Facelift) · 2023–2026 · Standard Range RWD - 60kWh LFP Battery

Electric

Due by distance

  1. 20,000 km

    Routine cabin air filter change, which keeps the air quality and the cabin smelling fresh.

  2. 40,000 km

    Flush the brake fluid and check the pads are lubricated - regenerative braking means the pads work less and can seize if left alone.

  3. 80,000 km

    Suspension bushings and alignment should be inspected; an EV's instant torque wears these a bit faster than a petrol car does.

Model 3 Highland (Facelift) · 2023–2026 · Long Range AWD - 82kWh NCA Battery

Electric

Due by distance

  1. 20,000 km

    First cabin filter change and an air conditioning service check.

  2. 40,000 km

    Test the brake fluid for moisture and inspect the suspension bushings.

  3. 80,000 km

    General chassis inspection, and possibly an assessment of the high-voltage battery's health.

Model 3 Pre-Facelift · 2018–2023 · Long Range AWD - Dual Motor

Electric

Due by distance

  1. 80,000 km

    Check how the original control arm bushings are holding up.

  2. 120,000 km

    Around here owners get a professional battery health check and have the heat pump or HVAC cooling loop inspected.

  3. 160,000 km

    Test the brake fluid for moisture and check the drive unit mounts are still sound.

Model 3 Pre-Facelift · 2018–2023 · Performance - Dual Motor Sport Version

Electric

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    The factory tyres are normally worn out by now - the Performance trim's torque sees to that.

  2. 80,000 km

    Check the cabin air filter and get the brake fluid tested for moisture, which matters for how well the regenerative braking works.

  3. 120,000 km

    Get a professional to inspect the cooling system seals and the drive unit fluid levels so it all lasts.

Model 3 Pre-Facelift · 2017–2023 · Standard Range / Plus - 50kWh/60kWh Battery

Electric

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Assess the original cabin air filters and give the air conditioning system a full refresh.

  2. 80,000 km

    Have the brake fluid tested for moisture so the car keeps stopping safely.

  3. 100,000 km

    A professional wheel alignment check is the usual advice here, to keep tyre wear even.

See all 19 documented issuesEverything researched for the Tesla Model 3, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Tesla Model 3 has — 19Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling5

01Heat pump refrigerant leak — cabin heat loss

The R-1234yf heat pump system introduced on 2021+ Model 3 is prone to refrigerant leaks at the octovalve assembly and compressor fittings.ev2021 onwardCooling
OccasionalCooling $2,200–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The R-1234yf heat pump system introduced on 2021+ Model 3 is prone to refrigerant leaks at the octovalve assembly and compressor fittings. Leaks cause progressive loss of cabin heating, reduced range in cold weather (15–25% range penalty), and eventual compressor failure. Cold-climate NZ owners (South Island, Central Plateau) are disproportionately affected. Tesla has issued multiple service bulletins but no formal recall as of mid-2026. Diagnosis requires UV dye injection and specialist EV workshop with R-1234yf recovery equipment.

Symptoms to notice

  • Cabin heat suddenly absent or very weak in cold weather
  • Range drop of 15–25% versus expected in temperatures below 10°C
  • HVAC system switching to resistive heat-only mode (high energy use)
  • Refrigerant hissing noise from front frunk area
  • Tesla app climate preheat taking much longer than normal

What to check

  1. Run climate heat on full for 10 minutes then check under the frunk for oily residue around the octovalve, compressor body, and refrigerant line fittings.
  2. Ask workshop to confirm refrigerant charge level with manifold gauge.
  3. Check Tesla service history for any prior octovalve or compressor replacements.

Where to look: Frunk thermal management bay — octovalve assembly and heat pump compressor

Ask the seller

  • “Has the heat pump or octovalve ever been replaced or topped up?”
  • “Does the car heat the cabin effectively in winter temperatures below 10°C?”
  • “Has Tesla ever flagged a refrigerant or HVAC fault in service history?”

02Heat pump / Octovalve faults causing loss of cabin heating

On the test drive set the climate to HI and confirm hot air arrives within a couple of minutes, and run the air conditioning to confirm it blows cold.ev2021–2023Cooling
OccasionalCooling $2,000–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Heat pump cars (fitted from the 2021 refresh) can lose cabin heating and demisting. A software fault left the electronic expansion valve (EXV) open, trapping refrigerant in the evaporator and shutting down the compressor — this triggered US recall 22V-050 and was fixed over the air with firmware 2021.44.30.7. Hardware failures of the compressor, Octovalve or sensors also occur and are expensive because few independent workshops touch Tesla refrigerant systems. In NZ winters a failed heat pump means no heat and a windscreen that will not demist, which is a warrant-of-fitness safety issue.

Symptoms to notice

  • No warm air from vents on a cold morning
  • Windscreen will not demist
  • Climate system alert on the screen
  • Loud clicking or droning from under the front boot area

What to check

On the test drive set the climate to HI and confirm hot air arrives within a couple of minutes, and run the air conditioning to confirm it blows cold. Check the software version is current in the Software menu. In the service history look for any heat pump, compressor or 'supermanifold' work.

Where to look: Heat pump assembly under the front boot (frunk) tub

Ask the seller

  • “Has the heat pump, compressor or Octovalve ever been repaired?”
  • “Does the heater reach full temperature quickly in winter?”
  • “Is the car running current firmware?”

03Heat pump refrigerant line fitting corrosion

Verify heat pump operation by running climate heat in cold mode and checking outlet temperature.ev2021 onwardCoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Rear half-shaft CV joint wear and clicking

Ask to drive the car in a tight circle at low speed under gentle power while listening for clicking.ev2018 onwardTransmission
OccasionalTransmission $700–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Model 3 transmits torque from the rear motor to each rear wheel via constant-velocity (CV) half-shafts. The inboard and outboard CV joints are subject to accelerated wear in Performance variants where instant peak torque (430-670 Nm at the axle) is applied repeatedly from standstill. The tripod-type inboard joint wears its needle bearings unevenly under sustained high-torque launches, producing a characteristic clicking or clunking sound during low-speed acceleration. Worn CV boots — cracked from heat or age — accelerate failure by allowing grease expulsion and grit ingress. Replacement requires the entire half-shaft assembly.

A concertina rubber constant-velocity joint boot fitted to a car driveshaft.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The rubber CV boot on a driveshaft — this is the part that splits and throws grease.

Ildar Sagdejev ( Specious ) · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic clicking or clunking from the rear when accelerating from low speed
  • Sound worsens on full-throttle launches or during tight turning under power
  • Grease flung onto the inner wheel arch or suspension components
  • Vibration through the floor under hard acceleration

What to check

  1. Ask to drive the car in a tight circle at low speed under gentle power while listening for clicking.
  2. Request the vehicle's launch history if available via Tesla service records — high sportiness-mode usage correlates with accelerated joint wear.
  3. Check for any grease staining on the inner rear suspension arms.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, inspect both rear CV boots for cracks, tears, or grease expulsion onto surrounding components.

Where to look: Rear axle — inboard and outboard CV joints on both half-shafts

Parts involved: CV joint and boot.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been regularly used for performance launches or track events?”
  • “Have any CV boots or half-shaft assemblies been replaced?”

05Heat pump condensate drain blockage

Confirm the vehicle is a 2024+ Highland build (revised front fascia and interior).ev2024 onwardCooling
OccasionalCooling $280–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2024 Model 3 Highland global refresh introduced a heat pump identical in architecture to the Model Y octovalve system. The condensate drain port exits beneath the frunk and is susceptible to the same blockage failure mode: debris and bio-growth accumulate in the drain tube, water backs up into the HVAC plenum, and overflow risks damage to the frunk electronics bay. The fault appeared in NZ/AU examples within the first year of Highland production given the high ambient humidity in coastal regions.

Symptoms to notice

  • Heater or air conditioning not reaching set temperature
  • Water or damp smell from front trunk area
  • Cabin air smelling musty after rain or car wash
  • Climate error on central display

What to check

  1. Confirm the vehicle is a 2024+ Highland build (revised front fascia and interior).
  2. With frunk open, locate the condensate drain tube on the passenger side firewall and verify it is not kinked or plugged.
  3. Run heat for five minutes on a cool day and confirm warm air output.
  4. Check frunk floor for water marks.
  5. Ask for Tesla service records showing any HVAC work.

Where to look: Front underhood (frunk) — heat pump condensate drain, passenger-side firewall

Ask the seller

  • “Has the heat pump drain been inspected since purchase?”
  • “Has the car produced any climate-related dashboard warnings?”
Electrical4

0112V auxiliary battery failure — no-start condition

Check the 12V battery date code (located in the frunk on Model 3).ev2017–2021ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Traction battery degradation — reality check and how to verify

ev2019 onwardElectrical
RareElectrical $15,000–$30,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Buyers fear battery death, but Model 3 packs have proven durable: typical degradation is 5-10% in the first 100,000 km then it plateaus, and Tesla's own fleet data shows roughly 15% average at 320,000 km. LFP-pack RWD cars (Shanghai-built, 2021 on) tolerate daily 100% charging and degrade slowly. Outright pack failure is rare and covered by the 8-year/160,000 km battery warranty to 70% capacity. The real risk is overpaying for a hard-used car — so measure, don't guess: a state-of-health (SoH) check or a 100% charge test reveals true capacity in minutes. Out-of-warranty pack replacement is the worst case and third-party repairers can often fix individual modules or contactors for far less.

Symptoms to notice

  • Indicated 100% range well below the original rated figure
  • Sudden drops in displayed range
  • Battery-related alerts on screen
  • Reduced DC fast-charging speed

What to check

  1. Charge to 100% (LFP cars) or 90% (long range NMC cars) and compare indicated range to the original WLTP-derived figure for that variant — 85-95% of original is normal for age.
  2. Ask for a Tesla service-mode SoH reading or run a third-party SoH check.
  3. Confirm remaining battery warranty from the build date (8 years/160,000 km) and check the odometer against it.

Where to look: Traction battery pack under the floor; capacity data via the charging screen or a service-mode SoH test

Ask the seller

  • “What range does it show at 100% charge?”
  • “Has the car had a battery state-of-health check — can I see the result?”
  • “How was the car usually charged (home AC vs constant DC fast charging)?”
  • “How much battery warranty remains?”

03Centre touchscreen freezing, black screen or spontaneous reboots

During the test drive use the screen constantly — open cameras, navigation and climate at the same time and watch for lag or a crash.ev2019–2023Electrical
CommonElectrical $0–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Because every control runs through the centre screen, MCU freezes and black-screen reboots are more disruptive in a Model 3 than in other cars. Most incidents are software glitches cleared by a two-button scroll-wheel reboot, but a minority of cars develop failing MCU hardware needing computer replacement. The car remains drivable during a reboot, though you temporarily lose the speedometer display, camera views and climate controls. Persistent rebooting, a flickering screen or yellowing edges indicate a hardware fault rather than a software one.

Symptoms to notice

  • Screen goes black while driving then restarts itself
  • Touchscreen lags or ignores touches
  • Screen flicker
  • Repeated reboots in one journey

What to check

During the test drive use the screen constantly — open cameras, navigation and climate at the same time and watch for lag or a crash. Do a scroll-wheel reboot yourself and check it comes back cleanly within a minute. Check the software version is recent; a car stuck on old firmware may have connectivity or MCU problems.

Where to look: Centre touchscreen and media computer behind the dash

Ask the seller

  • “How often does the screen need a reboot?”
  • “Has the MCU or touchscreen ever been replaced?”
  • “Are there any open service tickets in the Tesla app?”

04Charge port door and latch faults (CCS2 port)

ev2019–2023Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $300–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The motorised charge port door on NZ/AU cars can stop opening, and the charge port latch can fail to release the cable or refuse to lock onto it, leaving the car unable to charge or the cable stuck in the car. Charge port ECU and inlet pin faults occasionally cause slow AC charging or errors on public DC chargers. Most cases are fixed with a latch or door actuator; a full charge port inlet replacement is the worst case. There is a manual release cable in the boot if a plug jams.

Symptoms to notice

  • Charge port door will not open from the plug button or screen
  • Charging cable stuck in the port
  • Charge port light flashing amber or red
  • Intermittent 'unable to charge' errors

What to check

  1. Ask the seller to demonstrate a charge during the viewing — open the port from the screen, plug in, confirm the ring turns green, then unlock and remove the cable.
  2. Inspect the port pins for burn marks or corrosion.
  3. Try both AC and, if possible, a DC fast charger before purchase.

Where to look: Charge port behind the flap on the left rear quarter panel

Ask the seller

  • “Has the charge port, latch or door actuator ever been replaced?”
  • “Does it fast-charge without errors at public DC chargers?”
  • “Has a cable ever got stuck in the port?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior10

01Front lower control arm ball joint separation

Inspect the ball joint boot for cracking or grease expulsion.ev2018–2022Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $750–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

NHTSA opened investigation PE20-020 in 2020 following multiple reports of front suspension lower control arm ball joint fracture on early Model 3 vehicles. The ball joint connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle; if the joint separates while driving, the wheel collapses inward, causing immediate loss of steering and braking control. The failure can occur without audible warning on road surfaces with sharp impacts.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during cornering
  • Steering wheel shimmy at highway speeds
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front axle
  • Vehicle pulling noticeably to one side

What to check

  1. Inspect the ball joint boot for cracking or grease expulsion.
  2. Confirm through the Tesla service history whether the front lower control arms have been inspected or replaced.
  3. Ask for any wheel alignment records as misalignment can be a downstream indicator.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, grasp the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and attempt to rock it; any play indicates worn ball joint.

Where to look: Front axle — lower control arm ball joint, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arms or their ball joints been inspected or replaced by Tesla?”
  • “Has the front suspension been inspected by a Tesla service centre in the past 12 months?”

02Front lower control arm ball joint premature wear

Then grasp at 3 and 9 o'clock and repeat.ev2017 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arm ball joint on Model 3 wears prematurely due to the combination of the vehicle's high kerb weight (1,800–2,100 kg depending on variant), a press-fit ball joint that is not separately serviceable, and a tight ball-joint boot prone to tearing on New Zealand and Australian road surfaces. Worn ball joints produce knocking on uneven surfaces, affect steering geometry, and in advanced cases pose a safety risk from joint separation. Tesla has addressed some cases under warranty and a quiet service campaign for high-mileage vehicles, but no universal recall has been issued. The entire lower control arm must be replaced because the joint is not sold separately.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over speed bumps and potholes
  • Steering wander or vague on-centre feel
  • Uneven front tyre wear, particularly inner edge
  • Vibration through steering wheel at certain speeds
  • Audible pop when turning at low speed with suspension loaded

What to check

Then grasp at 3 and 9 o'clock and repeat. Any perceptible clunk or movement at the ball joint is a fail. Visually inspect the ball joint rubber boot for tears or extrusion of grease. Check for service history showing alignment corrections which may indicate prior ball joint issues. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grasp the front wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock firmly to check for play.

Where to look: Front suspension — lower control arm ball joint, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension or lower control arm been replaced?”
  • “Have you noticed any clunking from the front end over rough roads?”
  • “Has the car needed a wheel alignment outside of tyre changes?”

03Front subframe and underbody corrosion

Check all underbody welded seams for rust bubbling under the paint.ev2018–2022Body & Rust
RareBody & Rust $600–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Early Model 3 vehicles used a front subframe and underbody floor pan with a primer and paint application that proved less corrosion-resistant than comparable vehicles. In markets without road salt (including New Zealand and coastal Australia), the primary corrosion drivers are salt air, road grime, and minor stone chip damage to underbody coating. Corrosion begins at welded joints, suspension mounting points, and drain holes in the front subframe. While structural failure from corrosion alone is rare in the NZ/AU context, it can compromise the integrity of suspension mounting points and create pathways for water to enter the battery cooling circuit cavity. NHTSA opened a separate investigation into front subframe structural defects in US salt-belt vehicles.

Symptoms to notice

  • Visible surface rust on front subframe or floor pan visible during underbody inspection
  • Rust blush at suspension mounting bolt locations
  • Flaking underbody coating exposing bare metal, particularly at welds
  • Water weeping from front floor drain holes with rust-coloured staining

What to check

Check all underbody welded seams for rust bubbling under the paint. Use a blunt probe to test for softness in any suspect area. Inspect the battery cooling circuit lower tray cover for rust staining that may indicate moisture above the battery pack. For coastal NZ examples, any car stored near sea air should be inspected regardless of age. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect the entire front subframe on a hoist using a torch and mirror, paying particular attention to the four engine cradle mounting points and the lower control arm mounting brackets.

Where to look: Front subframe cradle, underbody floor pan forward of firewall, suspension mounting brackets

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the underbody been inspected, treated, or coated during ownership?”
  • “Has the vehicle been stored near the coast or regularly driven on gravel roads?”

04Rear brake caliper seizure from infrequent use

Because the Model 3 uses aggressive regenerative braking to recover energy, the rear friction brakes are rarely applied during normal driving.ev2018 onwardBrakesRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Compliance frame bushing knock — front suspension

Confirm by test driving and listening for the characteristic knock under both forward acceleration and regenerative braking deceleration.ev2017–2022Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $750–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Model 3 front subframe (compliance frame) uses rubber bushings that isolate the subframe from the body. These bushings are known to deteriorate and allow micro-movement of the subframe, generating a characteristic low-frequency knock or thud felt through the floor on acceleration and under hard cornering loads. The heavy electric motor torque delivery makes this more audible than on comparable ICE vehicles. The fault is common from around 50,000–80,000 km. Early model years used a softer bushing compound that degrades more quickly. Replacement requires subframe lowering and is time-intensive. Some workshops offer polyurethane bushing upgrades to prevent recurrence.

Symptoms to notice

  • Thudding or knocking from front underfloor when pulling away from rest
  • Low clunk when transitioning from acceleration to coasting (torque reversal)
  • Vibration through floor at certain engine/motor load ranges
  • Knock audible in cabin when cornering aggressively on rough roads
  • Noise that varies with motor torque output rather than road surface

What to check

  1. Confirm by test driving and listening for the characteristic knock under both forward acceleration and regenerative braking deceleration.
  2. Check whether steering rack is mounted to the subframe and whether alignment is stable (worn subframe bushings also cause alignment drift).
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, use a pry bar to attempt lateral and longitudinal movement of the front subframe relative to the body rails — any clunking or visible deflection indicates worn bushings.

Where to look: Front subframe (compliance frame) — four mounting bushing locations at body attachment points

Ask the seller

  • “Has any subframe or suspension bushing work been done?”
  • “Do you notice a knocking or thudding from the front underfloor when pulling away?”
  • “Has the car needed more than one wheel alignment in a 12-month period?”

06Rear trailing arm bush deterioration causing clunk

Attempt to move the trailing arm by hand to detect bush play.ev2019 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $500–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear trailing arm rubber bushes deteriorate and crack over time, producing a repeatable clunking noise over road undulations. Tesla issued a TSB addressing rear suspension noise linked to trailing arm bush wear. The fault is accelerated on rough NZ roads. Bush replacement is labour-intensive as the arm typically requires full removal, and the noise is often misdiagnosed as a loose item inside the cabin.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or thudding from rear suspension over bumps and road undulations
  • Noise is repeatable and worsens on corrugated or rough seal
  • Rear end feels imprecise or loose over uneven surfaces

What to check

Attempt to move the trailing arm by hand to detect bush play. Review any prior rear suspension noise TSB history in service records. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, inspect rear trailing arm bushes for cracking, deformation, or separation.

Where to look: Rear trailing arm rubber bushes, both rear corners

Ask the seller

  • “Any clunking or knocking noticed from the rear when going over bumps?”
  • “Has the rear suspension been inspected or serviced?”
  • “Have any Tesla TSBs relating to rear suspension noise been applied?”

07Front upper control arm creak and fore-link bushing wear

With the car stationary, turn the steering lock to lock and listen for creaking from the front wheel arches.ev2019–2023Suspension
Very commonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front upper control arm ball joints lose their grease when water gets past the seal, causing a loud creak or squeak when turning at low speed or loading the suspension. The fore links (compression rods) also wear their bushings early, giving a clunk over sharp bumps and under hard braking. Tesla issued service bulletin SB-20-31-006 to reseal the ball joints with urethane, and often replaced arms as goodwill even out of warranty. It is a wear annoyance rather than a safety failure if caught early, but ignored ball joints eventually develop play. The Highland facelift revised the front suspension and largely eliminated the issue.

Symptoms to notice

  • Creak or squeak from the front end when turning at low speed
  • Clunk over speed bumps or driveway lips
  • Groaning when rocking the car on its suspension
  • Knock under hard braking

What to check

  1. With the car stationary, turn the steering lock to lock and listen for creaking from the front wheel arches.
  2. Push down hard on each front guard and listen.
  3. Drive slowly over a speed bump with the windows down.
  4. Ask whether the upper control arms have already been replaced and look for an invoice — many cars have had them done once already.

Where to look: Front suspension, upper control arms and fore links behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front upper control arms or fore links ever been replaced?”
  • “Was the SB-20-31-006 ball joint reseal ever performed?”
  • “Is there any service history for suspension noise complaints?”

08Door and window seal water ingress

Run a garden hose along each door seal junction and window frame for 30 seconds while an observer checks the interior for drips.ev2018–2022Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $180–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Early production Model 3 vehicles (2018-2022) shipped with door seals and window weatherstripping that were prone to premature hardening, shrinkage, and detachment. Water intrudes through the B-pillar door seal junction and the frameless window glass channel during rain or car washing. Water can track into the door cavity and reach the door speaker, mirror motors, and window regulator mechanisms. In severe cases moisture enters the cabin sill, soaking the carpet and reaching the underfloor HV battery junction box cover. The retractable door handles on these models also had seal degradation issues allowing water entry into the handle mechanism.

Symptoms to notice

  • Water dripping from the door seal onto the door sill when the door is opened after rain
  • Wet carpet on driver or passenger side floor following heavy rain
  • Rattling or gurgling sound from door cavity during cornering
  • Wind noise or whistle at highway speeds from window seal gap

What to check

  1. Run a garden hose along each door seal junction and window frame for 30 seconds while an observer checks the interior for drips.
  2. Inspect all door seal rubber for hardening, cracking, or sections that have lifted from the door frame.
  3. Press the window seal at the B-pillar channel with a finger — it should compress and spring back; stiff or crumbling material needs replacement.
  4. Check door speaker grilles and carpet sills for water staining or mildew.

Where to look: All four door seals, B-pillar seal junctions, frameless window weatherstripping

Ask the seller

  • “Have any door seals or window seals been replaced during ownership?”
  • “Has the car ever had wet carpet or interior moisture after heavy rain?”

09Panel gaps, misaligned trim and thin paint (cosmetic)

Walk the car in good light and sight down each panel line comparing left to right.ev2019–2023Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $0–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Early US-built cars (NZ deliveries to mid-2021) are known for uneven panel gaps, misaligned boot lids and doors, and soft, thin paint that stone-chips easily. The switch to Giga Shanghai production for NZ/AU cars from 2021 improved build quality noticeably, but paint on white and black cars still chips readily on NZ chip-seal roads. This is cosmetic — it does not affect reliability — but it is a negotiating point and unrepaired chips on sills and bonnet edges can be costly to respray properly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Visibly uneven gaps around boot, bonnet or doors
  • Stone chips on bonnet leading edge and sills
  • Trim pieces sitting proud or loose
  • Water pooling in tail-light housings

What to check

Walk the car in good light and sight down each panel line comparing left to right. Open and close the boot and all doors checking for rubbing marks. Look closely at the bonnet edge, mirrors and sills for chips, and check the boot seal area for water staining. Panel gaps are only a concern if paired with paint mismatch — that means crash repair, not factory tolerance.

Where to look: Whole body — especially boot lid, bonnet leading edge, door alignment, sills

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever had paint or panel repair?”
  • “Was it US-built or Shanghai-built (check VIN: 5YJ = USA, LRW = China)?”
  • “Any PPF or touch-up work done?”

10Highland: early-build interior trim rattles and creaks

Test drive on a rough chip-seal road with the audio off and listen for trim noise.ev2023 onwardInterior
OccasionalInterior $0–$400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Highland facelift (NZ deliveries from early 2024) has a much stronger reliability record than the original car — the suspension creak and heat pump software issues were engineered out. The main pattern reported by early owners is interior trim noise: rattles from the new ambient-light dash trim, headliner creaks and buzzes from the rear passenger screen area, usually fixed under warranty with felt tape and clip adjustments. Treat it as a warranty-visit annoyance, not a mechanical concern.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle from dash or door trim on coarse chip seal
  • Creak from headliner or B-pillar over bumps
  • Buzz from rear screen area

What to check

  1. Test drive on a rough chip-seal road with the audio off and listen for trim noise.
  2. Check whether the car is still inside the 4-year/80,000 km vehicle warranty — trim rattles are a free fix while it is.

Where to look: Dash ambient light bar, door cards, headliner, rear seat screen surround

Ask the seller

  • “Any rattles been fixed under warranty already?”
  • “How much of the 4-year vehicle warranty is left?”

Tesla Model 3 faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

12V auxiliary battery failure — no-start conditionCritical · ElectricalHeat pump refrigerant line fitting corrosionMajor · CoolingRear brake caliper seizure from infrequent useMajor · Brakes

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Tesla Model 3’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Buying guides that cover the Tesla Model 3

Other Tesla models

Tesla Model Y15 documented faultsTesla Model S11 documented faults

Tesla Model 3 buyer questions

Is the Tesla Model 3 reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 19 documented faults for the Tesla Model 3, the recurring problem areas are suspension, electrical, and cooling. A Tesla Model 3 with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Tesla Model 3?

We've catalogued 19 known faults for the Tesla Model 3, covering suspension, electrical, and cooling. All 19 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Tesla Model 3?

Most single repairs on the Tesla Model 3 fall between $500–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 19 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Tesla Model 3?

Yes. A Tesla Model 3 inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.