Thinking about buying a used Tesla Model 3 (2017–2024) in New Zealand? We've documented 21 known faults for this model spanning suspension, electrical, cooling, and body & rust. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Two are set out in full below — the rest, with the symptoms, repair costs and checks for each, are free with an account.
21
Documented faults
Critical
Most serious
$500–$1,800
Typical repair
7
Systems covered
Known Tesla Model 3 faults
Every fault below is documented specifically for this model — researched and verified before it’s published.
01Front lower control arm ball joint separation
CriticalOccasionalSuspension $750–$2,000 to fix
NHTSA opened investigation PE20-020 in 2020 following multiple reports of front suspension lower control arm ball joint fracture on early Model 3 vehicles. The ball joint connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle; if the joint separates while driving, the wheel collapses inward, causing immediate loss of steering and braking control. The failure can occur without audible warning on road surfaces with sharp impacts. Tesla issued recall 21V-037 in the United States covering approximately 135,000 units; New Zealand and Australian vehicles were addressed via parallel regional actions.
Symptoms to notice
Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during cornering
Steering wheel shimmy at highway speeds
Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front axle
Vehicle pulling noticeably to one side
What to check
Inspect the ball joint boot for cracking or grease expulsion. Check whether the VIN falls within NHTSA recall 21V-037 coverage and confirm the remedy has been applied via the Tesla service history. Ask for any wheel alignment records as misalignment can be a downstream indicator. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, grasp the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and attempt to rock it; any play indicates worn ball joint.
Where to look: Front axle — lower control arm ball joint, both sides
Ask the seller
“Has this vehicle been inspected or repaired under NHTSA recall 21V-037 or any regional equivalent?”
“Has the front suspension been inspected by a Tesla service centre in the past 12 months?”
02Traction battery degradation — reality check and how to verify
MinorRareElectrical $15,000–$30,000 to fix
Buyers fear battery death, but Model 3 packs have proven durable: typical degradation is 5-10% in the first 100,000 km then it plateaus, and Tesla's own fleet data shows roughly 15% average at 320,000 km. LFP-pack RWD cars (Shanghai-built, 2021 on) tolerate daily 100% charging and degrade slowly. Outright pack failure is rare and covered by the 8-year/160,000 km battery warranty to 70% capacity. The real risk is overpaying for a hard-used car — so measure, don't guess: a state-of-health (SoH) check or a 100% charge test reveals true capacity in minutes. Out-of-warranty pack replacement is the worst case and third-party repairers can often fix individual modules or contactors for far less.
Symptoms to notice
Indicated 100% range well below the original rated figure
Sudden drops in displayed range
Battery-related alerts on screen
Reduced DC fast-charging speed
What to check
Charge to 100% (LFP cars) or 90% (long range NMC cars) and compare indicated range to the original WLTP-derived figure for that variant — 85-95% of original is normal for age. Ask for a Tesla service-mode SoH reading or run a third-party SoH check. Confirm remaining battery warranty from the build date (8 years/160,000 km) and check the odometer against it.
Where to look: Traction battery pack under the floor; capacity data via the charging screen or a service-mode SoH test
Ask the seller
“What range does it show at 100% charge?”
“Has the car had a battery state-of-health check — can I see the result?”
“How was the car usually charged (home AC vs constant DC fast charging)?”
“How much battery warranty remains?”
ElectricalCritical
ElectricalCritical
CoolingMajor
CoolingMajor
CoolingMajor
SuspensionMajor
Body & RustMajor
TransmissionMajor
BrakesMajor
CoolingMajor
ElectricalMinor
SuspensionMinor
ElectricalMinor
SuspensionMinor
SuspensionMinor
Body & RustMinor
ElectricalMinor
Body & RustCosmetic
InteriorCosmetic
19 more documented faults on the Tesla Model 3
Symptoms, what to check, where to look and what to ask the seller — for every fault above. Free with an account, no card needed. One account covers one vehicle, so make it the car you’re actually looking at.
This page covers the model. Enter the plate of the actual car you’re looking at and see its year, engine, safety rating and register flags — free, no account needed.
Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 21 documented faults for the Tesla Model 3, the recurring problem areas are suspension, electrical, and cooling. A Tesla Model 3 with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.
What are the most common problems with a used Tesla Model 3?
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We've catalogued 21 known faults for the Tesla Model 3, covering suspension, electrical, and cooling. Two are written out in full on this page. The rest — with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each — are free once you create an account.
How much do repairs cost on a Tesla Model 3?
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Most single repairs on the Tesla Model 3 fall between $500–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 21 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.
Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Tesla Model 3?
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Yes. A Tesla Model 3 inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $17.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.