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Toyota2002–2023 Critical issues documented

Toyota Alphard AH20: common faults & what to check

The AH20 is the Toyota Alphard built 2008–2016. It was sold here with the 2.4L petrol (2AZ-FE) and 3.5L petrol (2GR-FE). Of the 52 faults documented for the Alphard, 21 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Alphard

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

52

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$550–$2,200

Typical repair

54

Service milestones

You're looking at the AH20

2 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2010 Toyota Alphard is the AH20 generation (2008 to 2016).

Start your free check on this Toyota Alphard

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Toyota Alphard AH20Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Alphard came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Alphard · 2010

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Alphard before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Costly issue

    More than 2 mm of movement indicates hydraulic bush failure.

    See why

    Front Lower Arm Bush Wear Causing Highway Shimmy

    The ANH20 Alphard and Vellfire front suspension uses a double-wishbone arrangement with hydraulic rubber bushes at the front (tension rod) and rear pivot points of the lower control arm. The rear lower arm bush is a large hydraulic unit designed to damp longitudinal compliance loads. As the internal hydraulic fluid leaks past degraded rubber seals — typically between 80,000 and 140,000 km — the bush collapses and permits excess fore-aft and lateral movement of the front wheel under braking, cornering and road irregularity inputs. This produces a characteristic steering shimmy in the 95 to 115 km/h range that persists after wheel balancing and is easily misdiagnosed as a tyre issue. Collapsed bushes also cause unpredictable steering response on motorway lane changes and accelerated tyre wear from dynamic toe change. NZ imports commonly present with original bushes showing external rubber cracking and visible hydraulic void collapse.

    What you would notice

    • Steering wheel shimmy or vibration in the 95 to 115 km/h band
    • Vague or wandering steering feel on motorway that persists after wheel balance
    • Clunk from front suspension over sharp bumps or during firm braking
    • Accelerated or uneven front tyre wear
    • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking

    Typically $550–$1,400 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Cycle both sliding doors fully open and closed at least four times each using the interior button, exterior handle, and key fob.

    See why

    Power Sliding Door Motor and Cable Failure

    Both ANH20 and AH30 Alphard generations suffer from power sliding door motor burnout and Bowden cable wear. Door mechanisms become intermittent, fail to latch, reverse mid-travel, or stop entirely. Door harness wiring at the sill edge cracks with age on older JDM imports, adding electrical gremlins to the mechanical failures.

    What you would notice

    • Sliding door fails to open or close electrically
    • Door reverses or stops mid-travel without obstruction
    • Grinding or clicking from the door mechanism area
    • Door does not latch firmly on electric close
    • Door-open warning light remains on with door physically closed

    Typically $450–$1,200 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Apply controlled force to the arm and check for bush movement.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration

    The front lower control arm rear inner pivot bush in both ATH20 and AYH30 generations is prone to premature rubber hardening, cracking, and separation in Australasian UV and ozone conditions. A failed bush allows the front wheel to shift rearward under braking and forward under acceleration, producing a steering pull that changes direction with throttle application rather than being consistent. The vehicle's considerable kerb weight of over 2,000 kg accelerates bush wear significantly compared to lighter Toyota models sharing the same component.

    What you would notice

    • Steering pull to one side that may change direction with throttle or braking input
    • Vague or imprecise steering feel at highway speed
    • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over road irregularities
    • Uneven front tyre wear on inner or outer shoulder
    • Vehicle wanders and requires constant steering correction

    Typically $380–$950 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect the boot for splitting.

    See why

    Front Lower Arm Ball Joint Wear

    Front lower arm ball joints wear causing clunking and handling imprecision on the heavy Alphard.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking from front suspension over bumps
    • Imprecise handling feel when cornering

    Typically $350–$800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check for pulling under braking.

    See why

    Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

    Front and rear brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear on the heavy Alphard.

    What you would notice

    • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
    • One disc hotter than the other after moderate use

    Typically $200–$700 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Drive over rough surfaces at low speed and listen for rattle from the steering rack area.

    See why

    Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle

    EPS rack develops internal rattle at low speeds over rough surfaces on high-km Alphard examples.

    What you would notice

    • Knocking or rattling from steering rack at low speeds
    • Vibration through steering wheel during slow manoeuvring

    Typically $600–$2,200 to put right.

Toyota Alphard service schedule

The 4 engines a 2010 Toyota Alphard was sold with, each with its own intervals. Pick your engine above to narrow this to one. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

AH20 · 2008–2015 · 3.5L 2GR-FE - 4WD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Look over the serpentine belt and check the water pump for any weeping.

  2. 150,000 km

    Refreshing the automatic transmission fluid here keeps the gear changes smooth.

  3. 200,000 km

    Check the suspension struts and shocks so the Alphard keeps the soft ride it is known for.

AH20 · 2008–2015 · 3.5L 2GR-FE - 2WD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    A transmission fluid drain and fill at this point keeps the shifts smooth.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check the cooling system hoses and radiator so the V6 keeps running at the right temperature.

  3. 200,000 km

    Spark plugs and ignition coil health should be reviewed around here to keep the engine running at its best.

AH20 · 2008–2015 · 2.4L 2AZ-FE - 2WD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Time for a major service taking in the spark plugs and a cooling system flush.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check the suspension bushings and shock absorbers for signs of perishing.

  3. 200,000 km

    The drive belt tensioner and auxiliary pulleys are due for a check.

AH20 · 2008–2015 · 2.4L 2AZ-FE - 4WD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the serpentine belt and tensioner assembly for fraying or extra noise.

  2. 150,000 km

    Look over the suspension bushes and shock absorbers for perishing, which keeps the Alphard riding the way it should.

  3. 200,000 km

    Flush the cooling system and check the radiator, as its plastic tanks can go brittle.

See all 21 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 3 rated critical.
Electrical4

01Power Sliding Door Harness Chafing & Short Circuit

2008 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Power Sliding Door Motor and Cable Failure

Cycle both sliding doors fully open and closed at least four times each using the interior button, exterior handle, and key fob.2008–2023Electrical
CommonElectrical $450–$1,200 to fix

Both ANH20 and AH30 Alphard generations suffer from power sliding door motor burnout and Bowden cable wear. Door mechanisms become intermittent, fail to latch, reverse mid-travel, or stop entirely. Door harness wiring at the sill edge cracks with age on older JDM imports, adding electrical gremlins to the mechanical failures.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door fails to open or close electrically
  • Door reverses or stops mid-travel without obstruction
  • Grinding or clicking from the door mechanism area
  • Door does not latch firmly on electric close
  • Door-open warning light remains on with door physically closed

What to check

  1. Cycle both sliding doors fully open and closed at least four times each using the interior button, exterior handle, and key fob.
  2. Listen for motor strain or cable grind.
  3. Confirm each door latches firmly at fully closed position with no push required.
  4. Inspect the lower door sill wiring harness for cracking or chafing.

Where to look: Both rear sliding doors — drive motor behind lower door trim panel, Bowden cable through door sill channel

Ask the seller

  • “Do both sliding doors open and close reliably every single time?”
  • “Has either door motor, cable, or latch actuator been replaced?”
  • “Has either door ever stopped mid-travel or refused to latch without being pushed?”

03Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle

Drive over rough surfaces at low speed and listen for rattle from the steering rack area.2008–2015Electrical
CommonElectrical $600–$2,200 to fix

EPS rack develops internal rattle at low speeds over rough surfaces on high-km Alphard examples.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or rattling from steering rack at low speeds
  • Vibration through steering wheel during slow manoeuvring

What to check

Drive over rough surfaces at low speed and listen for rattle from the steering rack area.

Where to look: Electric power steering rack assembly

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering rack rattle been inspected or repaired?”

04Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Bearing Failure

Test AC during test drive.2002–2015Electrical
CommonElectrical $400–$1,500 to fix

AC compressor clutch bearing wears causing squealing when AC is engaged — common on high-km Alphard.

Symptoms to notice

  • Squealing or grinding from engine front when AC is switched on
  • Noise stops when AC is switched off

What to check

  1. Test AC during test drive.
  2. Listen for squealing from engine front when AC is engaged.

Where to look: AC compressor on front of engine

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the air conditioning compressor clutch bearing been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior5

05Front Lower Arm Bush Wear Causing Highway Shimmy

More than 2 mm of movement indicates hydraulic bush failure.petrol2008–2015SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration

Apply controlled force to the arm and check for bush movement.hybrid2008 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $380–$950 to fix

The front lower control arm rear inner pivot bush in both ATH20 and AYH30 generations is prone to premature rubber hardening, cracking, and separation in Australasian UV and ozone conditions. A failed bush allows the front wheel to shift rearward under braking and forward under acceleration, producing a steering pull that changes direction with throttle application rather than being consistent. The vehicle's considerable kerb weight of over 2,000 kg accelerates bush wear significantly compared to lighter Toyota models sharing the same component.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Steering pull to one side that may change direction with throttle or braking input
  • Vague or imprecise steering feel at highway speed
  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over road irregularities
  • Uneven front tyre wear on inner or outer shoulder
  • Vehicle wanders and requires constant steering correction

What to check

Apply controlled force to the arm and check for bush movement. Inspect front tyres for abnormal wear patterns. Road-test and note steering pull under braking and separately under acceleration to confirm bush failure pattern. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise vehicle on a hoist and inspect both front lower control arm rear bushes for cracking, rubber separation from the metal sleeve, or visible deformation.

Where to look: Front lower control arm rear inner pivot bush — both left and right sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle had a four-wheel alignment performed recently?”
  • “Does the steering pull or wander at highway speed?”
  • “Have the front suspension bushes been inspected or replaced?”

07Front Lower Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the boot for splitting.2002–2015Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$800 to fix

Front lower arm ball joints wear causing clunking and handling imprecision on the heavy Alphard.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps
  • Imprecise handling feel when cornering

What to check

Inspect the boot for splitting. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle raised, lever the lower arm and check for ball joint play.

Where to look: Front lower suspension control arms

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front lower arm ball joint been inspected or repaired?”

08Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2002–2015Brakes
CommonBrakes $200–$700 to fix

Front and rear brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear on the heavy Alphard.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One disc hotter than the other after moderate use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins.

Where to look: Front and rear brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

09Rear Multi-Link Bush Collapse

Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking.2002–2015Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and imprecision.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces
  • Imprecise rear handling feel

What to check

  1. Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking.
  2. Push arms — any movement indicates collapsed bushes.

Where to look: Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear multi-link bush collapse been inspected or repaired?”
Depends on the exact engine — 12 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling11

01MG2 Motor Resolver Fault (P315A/P3190)

Scan hybrid system for P315A and P3190 codes using Toyota TechStream or compatible scanner.hybrid2008–2015Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $2,800–$7,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MG2 traction motor resolver in the ATH20 hybrid transaxle develops internal signal drift or bearing wear, triggering DTC P315A (MG2 resolver circuit malfunction) and P3190 (poor performance). The hybrid system enters reduced-power failsafe mode or disables traction drive entirely. This fault is more common on vehicles exceeding 120,000 km and those operated in humid coastal NZ/AU conditions where moisture ingress accelerates resolver winding degradation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Triangle warning light with exclamation mark on dash
  • Hybrid system warning light illuminated
  • Vehicle enters reduced power or limp mode
  • Traction loss warning during acceleration
  • P315A and/or P3190 DTCs stored in hybrid control module

What to check

  1. Scan hybrid system for P315A and P3190 codes using Toyota TechStream or compatible scanner.
  2. Inspect transaxle for fluid contamination and evidence of resolver harness chafing near the transaxle case.
  3. Check hybrid transaxle oil condition at the inspection port for metallic contamination.
  4. Have a hybrid specialist perform MG2 resolver signal amplitude test.

Where to look: Hybrid transaxle — MG2 motor-generator resolver, underfloor centre tunnel

Ask the seller

  • “Has the hybrid system ever entered reduced power or limp mode?”
  • “Are there any stored DTCs for the transaxle or motor-generators?”
  • “Has the transaxle fluid been changed at recommended service intervals?”

022AZ-FE Head Bolt Thread Pull-Out

Cold-start the engine and watch exhaust for white sweet-smelling smoke.petrol2008–2015Engine
CommonEngine $2,800–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2AZ-FE aluminium block is prone to head bolt thread stripping under normal thermal cycling. Coolant enters combustion chambers or oil galleries, causing white exhaust smoke, overheating and eventual head gasket failure. Toyota issued an extended warranty in Japan and acknowledged the fault internationally; the repair requires thread inserts (time-serts) in the block.

Symptoms to notice

  • White or sweet-smelling exhaust smoke on startup or under sustained load
  • Coolant level dropping with no visible external leak
  • Milky or frothy residue on oil dipstick or inside oil filler cap
  • Engine overheating or erratic temperature gauge
  • Bubbling in coolant reservoir with engine running

What to check

Cold-start the engine and watch exhaust for white sweet-smelling smoke. With engine at idle, check coolant reservoir for rising bubbles (combustion gas ingress). Inspect oil filler cap and dipstick for emulsification. Ask for full coolant top-up history. If a workshop inspection is possible: Pressure-test cooling system cold.

Where to look: Engine top end — cylinder head to block mating faces, upper engine bay

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the engine ever overheated or needed coolant topping up without a visible external leak?”
  • “Has a head bolt repair or head gasket replacement been carried out?”
  • “Is there a documented cooling system inspection or repair in the service history?”

032AZ-FE Head Gasket / Water Jacket Spacer Failure

With the engine at operating temperature, observe the exhaust for white smoke distinct from condensation.petrol2002–2013EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Hybrid Battery Cooling Fan Filter Blockage

Inspect for dust, pet hair, or debris blockage.hybrid2008–2015CoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05CVT wear and failure on neglected fluid — 2.4 AH20

Ask specifically for CVT fluid change records — 'sealed for life' or a blank history on a 150,000 km import is a warning.petrol2008–2015Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $3,500–$7,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2.4-litre AH20 Alphard swapped the old 4-speed auto for a CVT, and it is sensitive to fluid condition: Toyota's severe-use interval is around 40,000 km, but many JDM imports arrive with no evidence the fluid was ever changed. Neglected fluid leads to shudder, slipping, jerky take-off and eventually whining and failure. A replacement or rebuilt CVT is one of the most expensive single repairs on these vans, so service history and how it drives from cold matter more than anything else on a 2.4 AH20.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or vibration pulling away from a stop
  • Engine revs flare without matching acceleration (slipping)
  • Whining noise from the front that rises with road speed
  • Jerky or delayed response when shifting from Park to Drive, worse when cold

What to check

Ask specifically for CVT fluid change records — 'sealed for life' or a blank history on a 150,000 km import is a warning. Start the van cold and drive it: pull away gently, then briskly, feeling for shudder or rev flare; drive at 60–80 km/h listening for a whine. Try a gentle uphill start with passengers aboard, which loads the CVT hardest. A pre-purchase inspection with a transmission fluid check is cheap insurance here.

Where to look: CVT transmission mounted on the front of the engine, under the engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “When was the CVT fluid last changed, and is there an invoice?”
  • “Any shudder, slipping or whining noises — even occasionally?”
  • “Has the transmission ever been repaired or replaced?”

062AZ-FE Excessive Oil Consumption via PCV & Rings

Shake the PCV valve and confirm it rattles freely — a stuck valve confirms PCV failure.petrol2008–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07Excessive oil consumption — 2.4 2AZ-FE piston ring defect

Pull the dipstick while the engine is cold and check the level and colour — very low or very fresh oil on an older van is a red flag either way.petrol2002–2014EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08VVT-i Actuator Sludge Causing Cam Timing Fault

Pull the dipstick and check for black, tar-like oil indicating severely neglected changes.petrol2002–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

092AZ-FE Internal Water Pump Failure

Inspect service records for any cooling system work.petrol2008–2015CoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

102GR-FE Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle on AH20

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for metallic rattle from the front of the engine.petrol2008–2015Engine
CommonEngine $800–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The AH20 Alphard 2GR-FE 3.5 V6 timing chain primary and secondary tensioners rattle on cold start from oil pressure lag. Persistent rattle at operating temperature indicates worn tensioners or chain guides.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from engine front on cold start
  • Rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds or remaining at operating temperature

What to check

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for metallic rattle from the front of the engine. Normal: clears in under 5 seconds. Rattle at operating temperature indicates worn components.

Where to look: Front of engine, primary and secondary timing chain tensioners

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 2gr-fe timing chain tensioner rattle been inspected or repaired?”

11Automatic Transmission Fluid Neglect and Shudder

If a transmission dipstick is accessible, check ATF colour — should be clear red, not dark brown or black with a burnt smell.petrol2002–2015TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Electrical1

0112V Auxiliary Battery Failure Causing Hybrid Lockout

hybrid2008–2015Electrical
CommonElectrical $180–$480 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ATH20 hybrid system depends entirely on a 12V lead-acid auxiliary battery to power the hybrid ECU, gate-drive relay circuits, and pre-charge the DC-DC converter before the high-voltage system can initialise. Unlike a conventional vehicle where a flat battery causes slow cranking, a failed 12V battery on the ATH20 prevents the entire hybrid system from entering READY mode, rendering the vehicle completely immobile. The 12V battery has a typical service life of three to five years in NZ/AU heat conditions and is frequently neglected by owners unfamiliar with hybrid architecture.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hybrid system will not initialise — READY light does not illuminate after pressing start
  • All dashboard warning lights come on but vehicle remains immobile
  • Accessory systems such as audio and windows may still operate normally
  • Weak relay clicking sounds when start button is pressed
  • Vehicle requires jump-start to the 12V auxiliary battery to enter READY mode

What to check

  1. Test the 12V auxiliary battery under load using a battery conductance tester rather than a simple voltage check, as resting voltage can appear normal on a degraded battery.
  2. Check the date code on the battery label to determine age.
  3. Inspect battery terminals for corrosion.
  4. With the hybrid system in READY mode, verify DC-DC converter output is between 13.5 and 14.8V to confirm the converter is charging the 12V battery correctly.

Where to look: Engine bay — 12V auxiliary battery mounted in the front engine compartment near the brake booster

Parts involved: 12V battery.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the 12V auxiliary battery last replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever failed to enter READY mode or required a jump-start?”
  • “Is the current battery the original or has it been replaced?”
Other Toyota Alphard engines and years31 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling16

012GR-FKS Timing Chain Guide and Tensioner Wear at High Mileage

Cold-start the engine and listen for a metallic rattling from the front of the engine that diminishes after 3–5 seconds of oil pressure build-up.petrol2015 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $3,500–$7,500 to fix

Does not apply

The 2GR-FKS 3.5L V6 in the AGH30 uses a dual-overhead-cam timing chain system with plastic chain guides and a hydraulic tensioner. Above 150,000 km, particularly in vehicles that have experienced infrequent oil changes or prolonged idling, the plastic chain guide rails wear and the tensioner loses pressure retention. This allows chain slack to develop, risking jumped timing and catastrophic engine damage if not addressed. The condition is exacerbated by using oil that is too thin or by extended oil change intervals.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Cold-start metallic rattling from the front of the engine, especially on first start of the day in cold weather
  • Persistent timing chain rattle at idle that does not clear after warm-up
  • P0016, P0017, P0018, or P0019 fault codes indicating cam-crank correlation error
  • Rough running or loss of power caused by jumped timing if guides have failed and chain has slipped

What to check

Cold-start the engine and listen for a metallic rattling from the front of the engine that diminishes after 3–5 seconds of oil pressure build-up. Persistent rattle after warm-up is more serious. Pull oil service history to confirm intervals. Use Techstream to check for P0016/P0017/P0018/P0019 camshaft correlation codes. If a workshop inspection is possible: A borescope inspection via the oil fill port can reveal guide debris.

Where to look: Front of engine block, timing chain cavity behind the front engine cover, both cam chain banks

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “What is the full oil change history and what oil specification and brand has been used?”
  • “Has any timing chain noise ever been reported, or have any camshaft-related codes been scanned?”

021MZ-FE Head Gasket Failure and External Coolant Seep

Check for brown or orange coolant residue staining along the lower edge of both cylinder heads.petrol2002–2008EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Denso Fuel Pump Impeller Deformation Causing Engine Stall (Safety Recall)

Before any other inspection, check the vehicle's VIN against Toyota's recall completion database (recalls.gov.au for Australia.petrol2018–2020Engine
OccasionalEngine $0–$1,200 to fix

Does not apply

Denso-manufactured low-pressure fuel pump impellers fitted to 2018–2020 Alphard models absorb fuel and deform under certain conditions, reducing fuel pressure below operating thresholds. The deformed impeller causes intermittent or progressive fuel starvation, leading to rough running, hard starting, and ultimately engine stall while driving — a direct safety hazard. Toyota issued a voluntary recall in Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and most global markets to replace the impeller assembly at no cost.

Symptoms to notice

  • Intermittent hard starting or extended cranking before the engine fires
  • Engine stalling at idle or while driving with no warning
  • Engine management or fuel system warning light illuminating
  • Rough idle and hesitation under light to moderate load
  • No-start condition after the vehicle has been sitting in the sun (heat accelerates impeller deformation)

What to check

Before any other inspection, check the vehicle's VIN against Toyota's recall completion database (recalls.gov.au for Australia; toyota.co.nz for New Zealand). If the recall shows as outstanding, request Toyota complete it at their cost before purchase. Look in the service records for any note of hard starts, stalling, or fuel system complaints. A dealer can print a recall completion certificate confirming the impeller has been replaced.

Where to look: Fuel pump inside the fuel tank – accessible via boot floor access panel

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the Toyota fuel pump recall been completed on this vehicle, and can you show me the completion certificate?”
  • “Have you ever experienced hard starting, engine stalling, or a fuel warning light?”
  • “Can a Toyota dealer confirm recall completion via VIN before I commit to purchase?”

04Super CVT-i K114 Belt Judder Under Light Throttle

Drive the vehicle at a steady 40-50 km/h on flat ground with very light throttle and note any floor or seat vibration.petrol2015 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

052AR-FE Excessive Piston Ring Oil Consumption

Check the oil dipstick level against the most recent service record date and mileage — any drop exceeding 0.5 L per 1,000 km is a warning sign.petrol2015–2021EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

062AZ-FE Excessive Oil Consumption from Piston Ring Flutter

Check the engine oil dipstick between services — oil should not drop more than 500 ml per 5,000 km.petrol2002–2008EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

078-Speed Direct Shift Automatic Torque Converter Lockup Shudder

During a test drive in slow urban traffic at 40–80 km/h on light throttle, monitor carefully for a rhythmic shudder felt through the seat and floor.petrol2018 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08UA80E 8-Speed Hard Downshift Shudder on Light Throttle

Road test on a quiet road: from 50 km/h lift off the throttle and coast down through the 40 to 25 km/h range, then lightly reapply throttle.petrol2015 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09Hybrid Inverter Electric Coolant Pump Failure

hybrid2015 onwardCooling
OccasionalCooling $900–$2,500 to fix

Does not apply

The Alphard Hybrid uses a dedicated electric coolant pump to circulate coolant through the power control unit (PCU/inverter), separate from the main engine cooling circuit. The pump's brushless motor can fail from internal seal degradation or bearing wear, starving the inverter of cooling and triggering a thermal protection shutdown of the entire hybrid system. Because the inverter cannot operate without active cooling, this failure mode strands the vehicle and requires PCU coolant pump replacement before the hybrid system will restart.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hybrid system warning light with PCU or inverter overtemperature fault code stored
  • Hybrid system enters forced shutdown while driving, vehicle coasts to a stop
  • Faint grinding or absence of hum from the front-left engine bay area (failed pump bearing)
  • Hybrid inverter coolant reservoir level low with no visible external leak
  • Vehicle starts in petrol-only mode and disables hybrid drive after a short time

What to check

  1. With the vehicle running and warmed up, listen for the faint continuous hum of the inverter coolant pump from the forward-left engine bay area — absence of this hum may indicate pump failure.
  2. Check the hybrid inverter coolant reservoir (a separate smaller reservoir from the main engine coolant, usually located near the PCU) and confirm the level is at MIN–MAX. Request any stored hybrid fault codes via OBD-II; a PCU overtemperature or coolant pump fault code confirms the issue.
  3. Inspect coolant hoses to the PCU for leaks or wetness.

Where to look: Hybrid inverter coolant pump – forward-left engine bay area near the firewall, on the PCU cooling circuit

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the hybrid inverter cooling pump or PCU cooling system ever been inspected or repaired?”
  • “Have you ever seen a hybrid warning light or had the vehicle enter a limp or no-drive mode?”
  • “Are both the main engine coolant reservoir and the separate inverter coolant reservoir at the correct levels?”

10VVT-iE Actuator Sticking from Oil Degradation

Start the engine cold and listen immediately for cam chain or VVT rattle from the top of the engine.petrol2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

11Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Failure

Perform a hot and cold test drive observing gear change quality — shifts should be smooth and decisive at normal throttle positions.2002–2008TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

12Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Seizure

With the engine running and AC switched on, visually confirm the clutch plate is engaging and rotating with the compressor pulley.2002–2008Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

The air conditioning compressor fitted to MNH10/ANZ10 Alphards is subject to clutch plate seizure caused by worn armature plate friction material and electromagnetic coil failure. When the clutch seizes in the engaged position the compressor drags continuously, potentially snapping the drive belt. When it seizes in the disengaged position the air conditioning fails entirely. Refrigerant leaks from the compressor shaft seal are also common and cause the clutch to cycle rapidly on low refrigerant charge, accelerating wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Air conditioning system producing no cold air despite the compressor appearing to run, or AC that only cools intermittently
  • Loud squealing or burning rubber smell from the engine bay when the AC is switched on, caused by the clutch slipping
  • Drive belt failure or premature wear caused by compressor clutch seizing in the engaged position and overloading the belt

What to check

  1. With the engine running and AC switched on, visually confirm the clutch plate is engaging and rotating with the compressor pulley.
  2. Switch the AC off and confirm the clutch disengages and the pulley freewheels.
  3. Listen for a rapid cycling click (compressor switching on and off more than once per 10 seconds) indicating low refrigerant.
  4. Inspect the front of the compressor for oily residue indicating shaft seal leakage — refrigerant oil staining will be visible around the seal.
  5. Check the drive belt for glazing or cracking from clutch slip.

Where to look: Engine bay — AC compressor mounted low on the passenger side of the engine, driven by the accessory belt; clutch assembly is the front-facing electromagnetic disc on the compressor nose

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the air conditioning produce cold air consistently or does it cycle on and off frequently?”
  • “Has the AC system been regassed or has the compressor been replaced?”
  • “Are there any oily stains visible on the front of the AC compressor?”

131MZ-FE VVT-i Gear Rattle on Cold Start

petrol2002–2008Engine
CommonEngine $800–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

The variable valve timing actuator (VVT-i gear) on the 1MZ-FE V6 is prone to internal wear of the locking pin and helical gear teeth, producing a pronounced chain-saw or rattle noise for 2–10 seconds immediately after a cold start. The actuator relies on oil pressure to lock and unlock the timing advance mechanism; worn internal components allow the gear to oscillate under low oil pressure during initial cranking. The condition typically worsens with age and increases in frequency as oil change intervals are extended.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud rattling or chattering noise from the front of the engine lasting 2–10 seconds only on cold start, disappearing once oil pressure builds
  • Check engine light with fault codes P1349 or P1346 stored in the ECU (VVT-i system malfunction)

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine from fully cold (overnight soak) and listen at the front of the engine for a distinct rattling or chattering noise lasting 2 to 10 seconds before disappearing as oil pressure builds.
  2. Note whether a check engine light is present — codes P1349 (VVT system malfunction bank 1) or P1346 (bank 2) confirm actuator fault.
  3. Inspect oil condition; dark, degraded oil accelerates actuator wear.
  4. Request maintenance records to verify oil change intervals.

Where to look: Front of engine on both intake camshafts — VVT-i actuators visible at the front of each cylinder bank behind the cam cover

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine make any rattling or chattering noise for a few seconds when started cold?”
  • “Has the check engine light ever appeared with a VVT-related fault code?”
  • “What oil change interval has been followed, and what grade of oil is used?”

142GR-FKS Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon Buildup

Review service history for any documented intake valve cleaning.petrol2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

152AR-FE Water Pump Seal Failure at 80-120k km

The 2AR-FE water pump is an engine-driven unit mounted behind the timing cover on the passenger side of the engine.petrol2015 onwardCoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

16Air conditioning weak or warm — compressor, refrigerant leaks and clogged rear system (AH30)

2015–2023Cooling
OccasionalCooling $200–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

AH30 Alphards run a large dual-zone system with a separate rear evaporator and roof vents, and weak or warm air conditioning is a recurring complaint on used examples. Causes range from cheap (clogged cabin/rear intake filters, regas) to expensive (refrigerant leaks in the long rear pipe runs, failed compressor). Because most NZ cars are fresh Japanese imports, the system has often never been serviced locally. A van-sized dual system costs notably more to repair than a normal car's, and on hybrids the electric compressor is dearer again.

Symptoms to notice

  • Front vents blow cold but rear roof vents blow weak or warm air
  • Airflow noticeably weaker than expected on max fan
  • A/C gradually loses its chill over weeks after a regas (leak)
  • Hissing or clicking from the dash or roof unit when A/C engages

What to check

  1. On the test drive, run the A/C on max with rear zone on and physically hold your hand over the rear roof vents as well as the front — both should go properly cold within a couple of minutes, even on a cool day.
  2. Listen for the compressor cycling on and off rapidly.
  3. Check the rear air intake grille (cabin side trim) isn't blocked with dust.
  4. Ask when the system was last regassed and whether it held.

Where to look: Compressor in engine bay; rear evaporator and blower in the side/rear trim with roof-mounted rear vents

Ask the seller

  • “Does the rear air conditioning blow as cold as the front?”
  • “Has the A/C ever been regassed — and did the cold last afterwards?”
  • “Has the compressor or any A/C part been replaced?”
Electrical6

01H30 Hybrid Inverter / MG Unit Warning and Failure

hybrid2015 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $4,000–$14,000 to fix

Does not apply

The H30 Alphard Hybrid (A25A-FXS system) uses a high-voltage inverter/converter unit to manage power flow between the electric motor-generators and the NiMH or lithium battery. The inverter is a known failure point on Toyota THS-II systems generally, with coolant leaks from the inverter cooling circuit causing internal corrosion and MG1/MG2 insulation faults. Failure manifests as a red triangle warning, loss of hybrid drive, and in severe cases complete electrical system shutdown. Toyota service campaign data from Japan documents inverter cooling failures on early H30 production.

Symptoms to notice

  • Red triangle master warning light on dash
  • Hybrid system inoperative warning displayed
  • Vehicle enters limp mode or will not start
  • Inverter cooling system low fluid warning

What to check

  1. Check the inverter cooling reservoir (separate from the engine cooling circuit) for correct level and condition — fluid should be clear pink Toyota Super Long Life coolant.
  2. Scan for HV system DTCs using Techstream: P0A09 (DC/DC converter performance), P0A94 (DC/DC converter performance), and motor-generator codes P0A78/P0A7A indicate inverter-side issues.
  3. Confirm no warning lights are currently stored.
  4. Ask whether any hybrid system warnings have appeared, even temporarily.

Where to look: High-voltage inverter/converter unit, engine compartment upper area

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has a red triangle or hybrid system warning ever appeared?”
  • “Has the inverter cooling fluid been checked or topped up?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever entered limp mode or refused to start due to a hybrid fault?”

02Hybrid NiMH Battery Pack Capacity Degradation

Connect Toyota Techstream (or equivalent) and check for DTC P0A80 and related HV battery codes.hybrid2011–2015ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Hybrid High-Voltage NiMH Battery Capacity Degradation

Request a Toyota Techstream or compatible OBD scanner readout of individual HV cell block voltages and state-of-health figures before purchase.hybrid2015 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Hybrid traction battery degradation (ATH10 / ATH20 / AYH30)

Turn the car on and watch the energy monitor: with a healthy pack the charge level should move gradually, not bounce between extremes within a minute.hybrid2003–2023ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Toyota Safety Sense Pre-Collision System False Braking Events

Inspect the forward radar sensor at the lower front grille for cracks, paint overspray, aftermarket tow bar wiring, or any obstruction.2018 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $0–$1,500 to fix

Does not apply

AH30 Alphard models equipped with Toyota Safety Sense-P (TSS-P) have a documented pattern of false Pre-Collision System (PCS) alerts and automatic emergency brake applications triggered by overhead metallic structures such as motorway gantry signs, bridges, and overpasses. The millimeter-wave radar module misidentifies stationary overhead objects as imminent forward collision threats and commands a hard brake application at highway speeds. Toyota has issued software calibration updates for the PCS radar control unit to reduce false-positive detection sensitivity, but some owners have disabled PCS entirely to avoid the hazard.

Symptoms to notice

  • Unexpected hard automatic braking on the highway with no obstacle in the travel lane
  • PCS warning buzzer and indicator activating under overhead motorway signs or bridges
  • Pre-collision alert triggered by oncoming headlights at night
  • Owner has switched off PCS or TSS via the in-car menu to prevent false activations
  • Radar sensor fault code stored in the pre-collision control ECU

What to check

  1. Inspect the forward radar sensor at the lower front grille for cracks, paint overspray, aftermarket tow bar wiring, or any obstruction.
  2. Check whether TSS/PCS is still enabled on the vehicle — an owner who has disabled it may be hiding a fault.
  3. On a highway test drive, observe whether the PCS indicator activates without cause under motorway gantry signs.
  4. Confirm with a Toyota dealer that all published TSS-P software calibration updates have been applied to this vehicle's VIN.

Where to look: Forward pre-collision radar sensor – lower front grille centre; forward camera – behind windscreen upper centre

Ask the seller

  • “Has the Toyota Safety Sense system ever triggered an unexpected braking event, and is PCS currently enabled?”
  • “Has the forward radar sensor, front bumper, or windscreen been replaced or repaired after an accident?”
  • “Can a Toyota dealer confirm all TSS-P software calibration updates have been applied to this VIN?”

06AYH30 Hybrid Traction Battery Cooling Duct Blockage and Overheat

Locate the battery cooling intake grille on the side of the second-row seat base.hybrid2015 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior9

01Electric Brake Booster Pump Failure

hybrid2015 onwardBrakes
OccasionalBrakes $950–$2,800 to fix

Does not apply

The AYH30 uses an electrically driven vacuum pump to provide brake booster assistance because the 2AR-FXE Atkinson cycle engine produces insufficient manifold vacuum and shuts down frequently during hybrid operation. The pump motor brushes and the one-way check valve are subject to wear, with pump failure resulting in a progressively harder brake pedal requiring significantly greater foot force. On a vehicle with a gross mass exceeding 2,400 kg, compromised brake assist represents a serious safety hazard with substantially increased stopping distances.

Symptoms to notice

  • Brake pedal feels hard or requires excessive foot force to achieve normal deceleration
  • Spongy or inconsistent pedal feel that varies between applications
  • Brake or master warning light on dashboard
  • Electric vacuum pump audible running continuously at idle
  • Noticeably increased stopping distance

What to check

  1. With ignition on and engine off, pump the brake pedal five times to deplete the vacuum reserve, then start the hybrid system to READY mode and verify pedal assist is restored within two to three pedal applications.
  2. Inspect the electric vacuum pump for operation by listening for the motor, and check the vacuum line from pump to booster for cracking or leaks.
  3. Scan for brake system DTCs including C-series codes.

Where to look: Engine bay — electric vacuum pump mounted adjacent to brake booster on bulkhead

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake pedal ever felt unusually hard or required extra force?”
  • “Has the brake warning light or master warning illuminated?”
  • “Has the brake booster, vacuum pump, or brake master cylinder been replaced?”

02Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect lower ball joint rubber boots for tears or grease expulsion.2015–2023Suspension
CommonSuspension $500–$1,100 to fix

Does not apply

The heavy AH30 Alphard (kerb weight over 2,100 kg) accelerates wear on the front lower control arm ball joints. Worn joints cause steering wander, suspension clunking, and uneven tyre wear. Ball joint failure on a vehicle of this mass presents a serious safety risk — wheel collapse can occur suddenly at speed.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over speed bumps or rough surfaces
  • Steering wander or vague straight-line tracking
  • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear on inner or outer edge
  • Vibration through steering wheel at motorway speed
  • Visible play when wheel is rocked at the 9 and 3 o'clock position on a hoist

What to check

  1. Inspect lower ball joint rubber boots for tears or grease expulsion.
  2. Check for corrosion around the ball joint housing that may have accelerated seal failure.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle on a hoist, rock each front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock to check ball joint play, then at 6 and 12 o'clock to check wheel bearing.

Where to look: Front lower control arm — outboard end at the hub knuckle, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any clunking or knocking from the front suspension been noticed?”
  • “When were the front suspension components last inspected?”
  • “Have the front tyres worn unevenly across the tread width?”

03Height Control Air Suspension Ride Height Sensor Failure

With the vehicle on level ground, visually check that the vehicle sits level side to side and front to rear.2015 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

Selected AGH30 Executive Lounge and Royal Lounge variants equipped with Toyota's Adaptive Variable Suspension or electronically controlled height adjustment use ride-height sensors on each corner linked to the suspension ECU. The sensors are potentiometer-type units mounted low on the suspension arms and are exposed to road debris, moisture, and corrosion. Failure causes the ECU to receive an incorrect or absent height signal, resulting in one corner sitting at the wrong ride height or the system defaulting to maximum height or fault mode. The warning indicator illuminates and the system may be permanently disabled until the sensor is replaced.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle visibly leaning or sitting unevenly when parked on level ground, with one or more corners at different height
  • Suspension warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster with fault mode active
  • Automatic height adjustment system not responding to load changes, such as remaining high when fully loaded
  • Techstream scan revealing a C1xxx series suspension height sensor signal fault code for one or more corners

What to check

With the vehicle on level ground, visually check that the vehicle sits level side to side and front to rear. A corner that is visibly higher or lower than the others points to a sensor or actuator fault. Use Techstream to read individual ride height sensor voltage values — all should be within a narrow band on a level surface. Inspect sensor linkage arms for corrosion, cracked potentiometer housings, and loose or broken linkage rods.

Where to look: Ride height sensor linkage arm at each lower suspension arm, front and rear corners

Parts involved: Air suspension strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the suspension warning light ever illuminated, and has the vehicle ever sat unevenly on level ground?”
  • “Has the vehicle been inspected for ride height sensor condition or any suspension system faults?”

04Front Subframe Mount Rubber Deterioration

Look for cracking, tearing, or separation of the rubber bonding from the steel sleeve.2002–2008Suspension
CommonSuspension $600–$1,500 to fix

Does not apply

The front subframe on the MNH10/ANZ10 Alphard is retained to the body by four large rubber-bonded mounts. In New Zealand and Australian climates, the rubber bonding degrades over 15 or more years, allowing the subframe to shift micro-incrementally under braking and cornering loads. This produces imprecise steering, clunking under braking, and directional wander. The condition also causes front wheel alignment to shift unpredictably since the subframe geometry is no longer fixed relative to the body.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or thudding sensation through the steering wheel under firm braking or when transitioning over road undulations
  • Steering feel that is vague or imprecise, with the vehicle tracking inconsistently on straight roads
  • Front wheel alignment that shifts outside specification without any identified steering or suspension component damage

What to check

Look for cracking, tearing, or separation of the rubber bonding from the steel sleeve. With the vehicle on the ground, have an assistant apply and release the brakes firmly while you observe the subframe from underneath for movement relative to the body. Check front wheel alignment records for unexplained toe or camber drift between services. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect each subframe mount from underneath with the vehicle on a hoist.

Where to look: Front subframe — four rubber-bonded mounting points located at each corner of the steel subframe where it bolts to the front body rails, accessible from underneath the vehicle

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle ever been inspected underneath for subframe mount condition?”
  • “Does the steering feel vague or does the vehicle clunk under braking?”
  • “Has the front alignment shifted unexpectedly between services?”

05Front Lower Arm Inner Bush Deterioration - Steering Pull

Any movement beyond 2mm indicates bushing failure.petrol2015 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$950 to fix

Does not apply

The AGH30 Alphard front lower control arm uses a large-diameter pressed-in rubber inner bushing at the subframe attachment point. The bushing is subject to high torsional loads due to the vehicle's kerb weight (approximately 2,100 kg). After 6-10 years or 80,000-120,000 km, the rubber compound hardens and develops radial cracking, allowing the arm geometry to shift under braking and cornering loads. This produces a noticeable pull to one side under braking, a vague steering feel, and inability to hold wheel alignment settings — vehicles return out of specification within months of alignment work. Deteriorated bushings also transmit road impact harshness into the cabin. The condition is accelerated by NZ road surfaces and the stop-start loads of grey import vehicles driven hard after import.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Steering pulling to one side consistently, particularly under braking
  • Vague or imprecise steering feel when changing direction
  • Alignment settings drifting out of specification within weeks of a fresh alignment
  • Clunking from the front suspension over speed bumps or rough surfaces
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on the inner edge of front tyres

What to check

Any movement beyond 2mm indicates bushing failure. Inspect the inner bushing rubber for radial cracks, separation from the metal sleeve, or distortion with a torch. Request the most recent wheel alignment printout and check if the front caster or toe values were at or near the tolerance limit. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grasp each front lower arm and attempt to move it forward and rearward in the vehicle longitudinal direction.

Where to look: Front lower control arm inner pivot bushing at the subframe mount — both left and right sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has a wheel alignment been done recently, and has it been stable since?”
  • “Does the vehicle pull to one side under braking or normal driving?”
  • “Have the front lower control arm bushings been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Are there any suspension clunks over rough surfaces?”

06Front Brake Caliper Guide Pin Binding and Corrosion

Attempt to slide each guide pin by hand after loosening the bolt — they should move smoothly without binding.2015 onwardBrakesRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07Tailgate Hydraulic Strut Failure - Tailgate Falls

Open the tailgate fully and release it — it must hold its position without drifting for at least 60 seconds.2015 onwardBody & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08Rear suspension sag and worn rear shocks under load (AH10)

Stand back and sight along the van from the side — the rear wheel arch gap should be similar to the front.2002–2008Suspension
CommonSuspension $700–$1,600 to fix

Does not apply

First-generation Alphards are heavy eight-seaters and the original rear coil springs and shocks tire with age. Owners report the rear sitting low, bottoming out over speed bumps with passengers aboard, and a wallowy, boaty ride. UK and NZ Alphard specialists sell uprated/load-assist rear spring kits specifically because sag is so common on these vans. Worn bushes in the rear double-wishbone setup add knocks over bumps. It is not dangerous if caught early, but a saggy loaded rear also points to a van that has worked hard as a people-mover.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear of the van sits visibly low, especially with people or luggage in
  • Bottoming-out clunk over speed bumps or driveways
  • Floaty, bouncy ride that keeps oscillating after a bump
  • Knocking from the rear over rough seal

What to check

Stand back and sight along the van from the side — the rear wheel arch gap should be similar to the front. Push down hard on the rear bumper corner and let go: it should rebound once and settle, not keep bouncing. Look behind the rear wheels for oil-streaked shock absorbers. On the test drive, take a speed bump at normal pace and listen for a bottoming clunk.

Where to look: Rear suspension — coil springs and shock absorbers behind the rear wheels, bushes on the rear wishbones

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear springs or shocks ever been replaced or upgraded?”
  • “Was the van used with a full load of passengers or for towing?”
  • “Any knocking noises from the back over bumps?”

09Sliding Door Lower Roller and Centre Track Wear

Open both doors fully and crouch down to inspect the lower roller (visible beneath each door) for flat spots, cracking, or uneven wear.2015 onwardBody & Rust
Very commonBody & Rust $300–$900 to fix

Does not apply

The lower roller assemblies guiding the Alphard's power sliding doors along the centre body sill track wear prematurely, particularly in vehicles that have been operated commercially or on unsealed roads. Worn rollers cause the door to sag at the rear when open, bind during travel, and in advanced cases the door scrapes the B or C-pillar trim and fails to engage the latch mechanism. The aluminium centre track accumulates grit and corrosion that accelerates roller degradation if not regularly cleaned and lubricated.

Symptoms to notice

  • Scraping or grinding noise as the door traverses the full track
  • Door sags visibly at the rear corner when fully open
  • Door requires a firm push to fully latch closed
  • Visible flat spots, cracking, or deformation on the lower door roller
  • Centre track shows corrosion pitting, grit accumulation, or gouging

What to check

Open both doors fully and crouch down to inspect the lower roller (visible beneath each door) for flat spots, cracking, or uneven wear. Run a finger along the exposed centre track for rough spots, pitting, or corrosion. With the door fully open, apply light upward pressure to the rear of the door panel — noticeable vertical play indicates roller wear. Observe whether the door drops visibly at the rear relative to the body line when fully open.

Where to look: Sliding door lower roller assembly and centre sill track – visible below both rear doors

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the sliding door rollers last inspected, lubricated, or replaced?”
  • “Does either door require extra force to close or fail to latch on the first attempt?”
  • “Has the vehicle operated on gravel roads or in a coastal environment where track corrosion is accelerated?”

Toyota Alphard faults in detail

Narrowed to the Toyota Alphard · 2010. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

2AZ-FE Excessive Oil Consumption via PCV & RingsMajor · Engine2AZ-FE Head Gasket / Water Jacket Spacer FailureCritical · Engine2AZ-FE Internal Water Pump FailureMajor · CoolingAutomatic Transmission Fluid Neglect and ShudderMajor · TransmissionExcessive oil consumption — 2.4 2AZ-FE piston ring defectMajor · EngineFront Lower Arm Bush Wear Causing Highway ShimmyMajor · SuspensionHybrid Battery Cooling Fan Filter BlockageMajor · CoolingPower Sliding Door Harness Chafing & Short CircuitMajor · ElectricalVVT-i Actuator Sludge Causing Cam Timing FaultMajor · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Alphard’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Prado64 documented faultsToyota RAV463 documented faultsToyota Hilux60 documented faultsToyota Vellfire49 documented faultsToyota Corolla47 documented faultsToyota HiAce46 documented faults

Toyota Alphard buyer questions

Is the Toyota Alphard reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 52 documented faults for the Toyota Alphard, the recurring problem areas are electrical, transmission, and engine. A Toyota Alphard with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Alphard?

We've catalogued 52 known faults for the Toyota Alphard, covering electrical, transmission, and engine. All 52 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Alphard?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Alphard fall between $550–$2,200 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 52 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Alphard?

Yes. A Toyota Alphard inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.