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Toyota Land Cruiser 70: Diesel particulate filter blocking on September-2016-onward V8 (1VD-FTV)

Diesel particulate filter blocking on September-2016-onward V8 (1VD-FTV) is a common engine fault on the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 on the 2016 onward cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $250 to $7,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 20 documented faults on the Toyota Land Cruiser 70.

Vehicle
Toyota Land Cruiser 70
Engine
1VD-FTV
Years
2016 onward
Fuel
diesel
System
Engine

This page covers the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Toyota Land Cruiser 70 faults20 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Diesel particulate filter yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

Every 70 Series built from September 2016 got a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust to meet tighter emissions rules; anything built August 2016 or earlier has none. The filter catches soot and is supposed to burn it off automatically, but that only happens once the exhaust gets properly hot, so a vehicle used for town errands, short farm runs and idling never completes the cycle and slowly chokes itself. The second killer is oil: this engine needs a low-SAPS ACEA C2 or C3 0W-30 or 5W-30, and ordinary diesel oil leaves ash the filter can never burn out, clogging it in as little as 30,000 km against a design life of over 200,000 km. Once blocked you get warning lights, limp mode, heavy fuel use and eventually a filter that has to be replaced rather than cleaned. Many owners cut the filter out instead, which is cheap for them and a problem for you: it is illegal emissions tampering, can fail a warrant of fitness, and putting it back is expensive.

What you would notice

  • Orange exhaust-filter or DPF light stays on, or a dash message telling you to keep driving
  • Sudden loss of power and the engine will not rev past about half throttle (limp mode)
  • Fuel economy noticeably worse than the seller claims
  • Hot, sharp, burning smell from the back of the vehicle after a drive
  • Puffs of white or grey smoke and a rough idle after a lot of short trips

How to check it

Where to look. Exhaust system underneath the vehicle, a large canister between the engine and the rear muffler; build date on the compliance plate in the engine bay or the driver's door opening

  1. Find the build date on the compliance plate or the sticker in the driver's door opening, because a 70 Series built September 2016 or later has a particulate filter and one built August 2016 or earlier does not.

  2. Start the engine from cold and watch the dash for an exhaust-filter symbol that stays lit or a message asking the driver to keep driving.

  3. Ask the seller straight out how the vehicle is used, since town running, short farm trips and idling stop the filter ever getting hot enough to clean itself, while a weekly open-road run keeps it healthy.

  4. Ask which engine oil goes in it and look for that oil named on the service invoices, because this engine needs a low-SAPS ACEA C2 or C3 oil in 0W-30 or 5W-30 and ordinary diesel oil clogs the filter permanently.

  5. Walk to the back and look along the exhaust line with a phone torch: the filter is a fat canister part way down, and a plain straight pipe where it should be means it has been cut out, which is illegal emissions tampering and can fail a warrant of fitness.

  6. On the test drive hold open-road speed for at least ten minutes and watch for power tailing off, a warning light appearing, or a hot sharp smell when you stop.

  7. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the soot load, ash load and regeneration history read from the engine ECU with a scan tool, and ask for an exhaust back-pressure check before you commit.

Parts involved: Diesel particulate filter.

What it costs to put right

$250 to $7,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “What month and year was it built, and does it have a particulate filter?”
  • “What sort of driving does it do in a normal week — town, farm, or open road?”
  • “Which engine oil do you use, and can I see the invoices that name it?”
  • “Has the filter ever been cleaned, replaced, or removed?”
  • “Has the dash ever shown an exhaust-filter warning or gone into limp mode?”

Now check the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in the sources below. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them.

  • Unsealed 4X4 — 'Toyota LandCruiser 70 Series common problems (2007-2026)'
  • 70 Series Store — 'When Did the LandCruiser Get a DPF? Years & Models Listed'
  • 70 Series Store — 'Top 10 Common 70 Series LandCruiser Problems (and How to Fix Them)' (DPF clogging from wrong oil grade, ACEA C2/C3 low-SAPS requirement)

Toyota Land Cruiser 70 buyer questions

Is diesel particulate filter blocking on september-2016-onward v8 (1vd-ftv) serious on a Toyota Land Cruiser 70?

We rate it major and common on the Toyota Land Cruiser 70. Every 70 Series built from September 2016 got a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust to meet tighter emissions rules; anything built August 2016 or earlier has none. The filter catches soot and is supposed to burn it off automatically, but that only happens once the exhaust gets properly hot, so a vehicle used for town errands, short farm runs and idling never completes the cycle and slowly chokes itself. The second killer is oil: this engine needs a low-SAPS ACEA C2 or C3 0W-30 or 5W-30, and ordinary diesel oil leaves ash the filter can never burn out, clogging it in as little as 30,000 km against a design life of over 200,000 km. Once blocked you get warning lights, limp mode, heavy fuel use and eventually a filter that has to be replaced rather than cleaned. Many owners cut the filter out instead, which is cheap for them and a problem for you: it is illegal emissions tampering, can fail a warrant of fitness, and putting it back is expensive.

How much does it cost to fix on a Toyota Land Cruiser 70?

$250 to $7,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Toyota Land Cruiser 70 years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2016 onward Toyota Land Cruiser 70. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Find the build date on the compliance plate or the sticker in the driver's door opening, because a 70 Series built September 2016 or later has a particulate filter and one built August 2016 or earlier does not. Start the engine from cold and watch the dash for an exhaust-filter symbol that stays lit or a message asking the driver to keep driving. Ask the seller straight out how the vehicle is used, since town running, short farm trips and idling stop the filter ever getting hot enough to clean itself, while a weekly open-road run keeps it healthy. Ask which engine oil goes in it and look for that oil named on the service invoices, because this engine needs a low-SAPS ACEA C2 or C3 oil in 0W-30 or 5W-30 and ordinary diesel oil clogs the filter permanently. Walk to the back and look along the exhaust line with a phone torch: the filter is a fat canister part way down, and a plain straight pipe where it should be means it has been cut out, which is illegal emissions tampering and can fail a warrant of fitness. On the test drive hold open-road speed for at least ten minutes and watch for power tailing off, a warning light appearing, or a hot sharp smell when you stop. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the soot load, ash load and regeneration history read from the engine ECU with a scan tool, and ask for an exhaust back-pressure check before you commit. Look here: Exhaust system underneath the vehicle, a large canister between the engine and the rear muffler; build date on the compliance plate in the engine bay or the driver's door opening