Toyota2001–2022 Critical issues documented

Toyota Noah ZRR70: common faults & what to check

The ZRR70 is the Toyota Noah built 2007–2015. It was sold here with the 2.0L petrol (3ZR-FAE). Of the 27 faults documented for the Noah, 15 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$320–$1,800

Typical repair

Service milestones

You're looking at the ZRR70 · 2.0L petrol (3ZR-FAE)

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

2007–2015ZRR70 Selected2007–2015ZRR702.0L petrol (3ZR-FAE)PetrolDocumented issues12 knownSee faults & what to checkPhoto: Andrew Bone via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it?

2.0L petrol (3ZR-FAE)· 2.0 litre petrol

A 2007 Toyota Noah is the ZRR70 generation (2007 to 2015).

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Toyota Noah ZRR70

Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Noah · 2007

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Noah before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

Serious issue
Inspect the rubber dust boot for cracks, tears, or grease leakage.
See why
Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear
The front suspension on both AZR60 and ZRR80 Noah variants uses a MacPherson strut arrangement with a compression-loaded lower control arm ball joint that carries the full lateral and longitudinal suspension loads. The ball joint socket is a press-fit rubber-booted assembly, and as the boot cracks or tears—accelerated by New Zealand road grime and kerb impacts from high-profile MPV tyres—grease is lost and contamination enters, causing the steel ball to wear within its nylon or metal socket. A worn ball joint increases steering wander and, if allowed to progress to the point of severe play, can separate under cornering load, causing a sudden loss of front-wheel control.
What you would notice
- Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when driving over speed bumps, potholes, or rough road surfaces
- Vague or wandering steering with increased effort needed to maintain a straight line
- Uneven front tyre wear, particularly on the inner edge, caused by altered camber from a loose joint
- Visible torn or grease-contaminated dust boot on the lower ball joint during a visual inspection
Typically $280–$720 to put right.
Costly issue
Visually inspect the rubber bush material: cracking, splitting, or visible voids in the rubber are rejection criteria.
See why
Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration
The front lower control arms on ZRR70 and ZRR80 Noah models use rubber-bonded bushes at both the subframe pivot and the ball-joint end. These bushes deteriorate progressively in NZ conditions, combining UV degradation, road salt exposure, and the high vehicle weight of a fully-loaded 8-seat van. As the bushes soften and crack, the control arm develops angular movement under braking and cornering loads, causing vague steering, clunking, and uneven front tyre wear. The inner subframe bush deteriorates faster than the outer. Failed bushes cause the front suspension geometry to shift under load, making the vehicle difficult to align precisely. Replacement is typically carried out as a complete lower arm assembly rather than bush-only press-in repair, as most independent shops press the entire arm.
What you would notice
- Clunking or thumping from the front suspension over bumps, speed humps, or sharp road edges
- Front end vagueness or wandering on straight roads, requiring constant small steering corrections
- Uneven front tyre wear — excessive wear on inside or outside shoulder despite recent alignment
- Vehicle pulling to one side under firm braking from highway speed
Typically $450–$1,100 to put right.
Costly issue
Operate both sliding doors through several full open-close cycles and listen for grinding, clicking, or the motor running with no door movement.
See why
Power Sliding Door Cable Fraying and Drum Detachment
Both the AZR60 and ZRR80 generations of the Noah use electrically operated power sliding doors driven by a cable-and-drum mechanism integrated into the door rail. The stainless steel cable runs inside a plastic guide channel the full length of the door aperture and is wound onto a motor-driven drum; over time the cable frays at the drum attachment point or at the guide channel ends where it flexes repeatedly. A frayed or detached cable causes the door motor to run unloaded, leaving the door stopped mid-travel, failing to latch, or in rare cases freewheeling open on a slope.
What you would notice
- Power sliding door stops or reverses partway through its travel without any obstruction
- Grinding or clicking sound from inside the door rail when the door operates
- Door motor audible but door does not move when the open or close button is pressed
- Door fails to achieve a firm latch and can be pushed open easily from outside
Typically $320–$850 to put right.
Costly issue
After a test drive of moderate length, carefully feel each wheel rim near the hub for unusual heat.
See why
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure
Both AZR60 and ZRR80 Noahs use sliding-caliper disc brakes at the front and typically drum or sliding-caliper disc brakes at the rear. The floating caliper design relies on two hardened steel guide pins coated in high-temperature grease to allow the caliper body to slide freely and apply equal pressure to both inner and outer brake pads. New Zealand's combination of road salt and high rainfall causes the guide pin bores to corrode, the rubber boots to crack, and the grease to wash out; once a pin seizes, the caliper cannot retract fully after braking, causing the outboard pad to drag continuously against the disc. This leads to accelerated pad and disc wear on one side, uneven braking, pulling under heavy stops, and in severe cases sufficient heat to distort the disc or boil the brake fluid locally.
What you would notice
- Vehicle pulls to one side during braking, requiring the driver to correct the steering
- One wheel significantly hotter than its counterpart after normal driving, detectable by carefully feeling the wheel rim
- Uneven brake pad wear with the outer pad worn much thinner than the inner pad on the same caliper
- Grinding or squealing noise from one wheel even when the brake pedal is not applied, caused by a dragging pad
Typically $150–$480 to put right.
Costly issue
Lift all floor carpets and inspect the floor pan directly, focusing on the centre tunnel, under second and third row seats, and the rear load area.
See why
Underfloor and Inner Sill Corrosion on Japan Imports
Vehicles sourced from northern Japan or cold-climate regions were exposed to road salt and winter moisture over their Japanese service life. Corrosion begins under the factory undercoating and progresses through the floor pan, inner sill sections, rear wheel arch lips, spare tyre recess, and suspension sub-frame mounting points. By the time corrosion is visible from outside the vehicle, structural sections can already be significantly compromised. The extent of damage is typically not apparent from a casual inspection.
What you would notice
- Rust bubbles or blistering on painted sill or lower door edge
- Soft spots or perforations in floor pan discovered under carpet
- Rust staining in rear wheel arches or spare tyre well
- Flaking or bubbling undercoating at suspension mounting points
Typically $500–$3,000 to put right.
Common issue
Drive slowly over a speed bump or rough road surface and listen for a knock or rattle that coincides with steering wheel vibration.
See why
Electric Power Steering Rack Knock and Rattle
Noah models of both ZRR70 and ZRR80 generations use an electric power steering (EPS) rack. A known failure mode is the development of a knock or rattle from the steering rack over road imperfections, caused by internal wear in the rack housing, worn tie-rod end sockets, or loosening of the EPS motor mount to the rack body. The rattle is distinct from suspension noise — it transmits directly through the steering column and is most evident at low speed over rough surfaces. In some cases the EPS motor drive gear or intermediate shaft splines develop lash, producing a knock on initial steering input from centre. Early intervention with tie-rod replacement or rack mount tightening can arrest the fault; a worn rack housing requires full rack replacement.
What you would notice
- Clunking or rattling noise from the steering rack area when driving over potholes or road joints
- Knock felt through the steering wheel rim when hitting a bump while cornering
- Loose or notchy feeling on-centre in the steering with slight free play before effort builds
- Intermittent EPS warning light (orange steering wheel icon) during cold weather starts
Typically $300–$1,800 to put right.

Toyota Noah service schedule

The 5 engines a 2007 Toyota Noah was sold with, each with its own intervals. Pick your engine above to narrow this to one. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Toyota Noah (2nd Gen) · 2007–2014 · 2.0L 3ZR-FAE - FWD (Valvematic)

Petrol

Due by distance

100,000 km
Check the serpentine belt and look at the water pump for early signs of seepage.
150,000 km
Get the CVT fluid checked. It is often called sealed for life, but fresh fluid tends to keep this transmission smooth.
200,000 km
Turn attention to the suspension; strut mounts and control arm bushings often show their age at this distance.

Toyota Noah (2nd Gen) · 2007–2014 · 2.0L 3ZR-FE - AWD

Petrol

Due by distance

100,000 km
The usual point for checking the drive belt tensioner and the health of the cooling system.
150,000 km
Review the suspension bushings and shock absorbers for perishing or lost damping.
200,000 km
Have a professional check the transmission fluid condition and the general state of the engine sensors.

Toyota Noah (2nd Gen) · 2007–2014 · 2.0L 3ZR-FE - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

100,000 km
Check the serpentine belt and the condition of the suspension bushings.
150,000 km
If there is no record of one, look into a professional transmission fluid service.
200,000 km
Give the cooling system a thorough health check, radiator and hoses included, so it stays reliable.

Toyota Noah (1st Gen) · 2001–2007 · 2.0L 1AZ-FSE - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

150,000 km
Suspension bushes, and the front control arm bushings in particular, start perishing around here.
200,000 km
Listen for a rattle from the timing chain at startup, and make sure the radiator and hoses have been renewed.
250,000 km
Engine mounts start to matter for cabin vibration by now, and it is worth checking the automatic transmission fluid.

Toyota Noah (1st Gen) · 2001–2007 · 2.0L 1AZ-FSE - AWD

Petrol

Due by distance

150,000 km
Check the suspension bushings and shock absorbers for perishing.
200,000 km
Check the radiator and coolant hoses before the cooling system starts giving trouble.
250,000 km
The accessory drive belts and tensioners should be assessed and may need replacing.

See all 15 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.

Electrical1

01Power Sliding Door Cable Fraying and Drum Detachment

Operate both sliding doors through several full open-close cycles and listen for grinding, clicking, or the motor running with no door movement.2001 onwardElectrical$320–$850

CommonElectrical $320–$850 to fix

Both the AZR60 and ZRR80 generations of the Noah use electrically operated power sliding doors driven by a cable-and-drum mechanism integrated into the door rail. The stainless steel cable runs inside a plastic guide channel the full length of the door aperture and is wound onto a motor-driven drum; over time the cable frays at the drum attachment point or at the guide channel ends where it flexes repeatedly. A frayed or detached cable causes the door motor to run unloaded, leaving the door stopped mid-travel, failing to latch, or in rare cases freewheeling open on a slope.

Symptoms to notice

Power sliding door stops or reverses partway through its travel without any obstruction
Grinding or clicking sound from inside the door rail when the door operates
Door motor audible but door does not move when the open or close button is pressed
Door fails to achieve a firm latch and can be pushed open easily from outside

What to check

Operate both sliding doors through several full open-close cycles and listen for grinding, clicking, or the motor running with no door movement.
Inspect the lower rail for frayed wire strands or rust.
Check that the door latches firmly at both the half-latch and full-latch positions.
Pull gently on a fully closed door to confirm it does not rattle or move.

Where to look: Inside the upper and lower sliding door rails on both sides; cable drum and motor unit located within the B-pillar behind the interior trim

Ask the seller

“Do both sliding doors open and close completely in a single smooth motion without stopping or reversing?”
“Has either sliding door cable or motor been replaced, and is there a workshop invoice?”
“Does the door latch feel solid, or does it rattle when you push it after closing?”

Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical6

02Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the rubber dust boot for cracks, tears, or grease leakage.2001 onwardSuspension$280–$720

CommonSuspension $280–$720 to fix

The front suspension on both AZR60 and ZRR80 Noah variants uses a MacPherson strut arrangement with a compression-loaded lower control arm ball joint that carries the full lateral and longitudinal suspension loads. The ball joint socket is a press-fit rubber-booted assembly, and as the boot cracks or tears—accelerated by New Zealand road grime and kerb impacts from high-profile MPV tyres—grease is lost and contamination enters, causing the steel ball to wear within its nylon or metal socket. A worn ball joint increases steering wander and, if allowed to progress to the point of severe play, can separate under cornering load, causing a sudden loss of front-wheel control.

Symptoms to notice

Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when driving over speed bumps, potholes, or rough road surfaces
Vague or wandering steering with increased effort needed to maintain a straight line
Uneven front tyre wear, particularly on the inner edge, caused by altered camber from a loose joint
Visible torn or grease-contaminated dust boot on the lower ball joint during a visual inspection

What to check

Inspect the rubber dust boot for cracks, tears, or grease leakage. On a test drive, note any clunking over bumps or vagueness in straight-line steering that could indicate joint play under load. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the front of the vehicle safely supported on stands, grip the tyre at 12 and 6 o'clock and attempt to rock it; any detectable clunking or vertical play indicates ball joint wear.

Where to look: Lower end of the front MacPherson strut assembly, at the junction between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle, behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

“When were the front lower ball joints last inspected or replaced, and is there a WOF record noting their condition?”
“Is there any clunking from the front suspension on rough roads or speed bumps?”
“Have the front tyres shown any unusual or uneven wear patterns?”

03Underfloor and Inner Sill Corrosion on Japan Imports

Lift all floor carpets and inspect the floor pan directly, focusing on the centre tunnel, under second and third row seats, and the rear load area.2001 onwardBody & Rust$500–$3,000

OccasionalBody & Rust $500–$3,000 to fix

Vehicles sourced from northern Japan or cold-climate regions were exposed to road salt and winter moisture over their Japanese service life. Corrosion begins under the factory undercoating and progresses through the floor pan, inner sill sections, rear wheel arch lips, spare tyre recess, and suspension sub-frame mounting points. By the time corrosion is visible from outside the vehicle, structural sections can already be significantly compromised. The extent of damage is typically not apparent from a casual inspection.

Symptoms to notice

Rust bubbles or blistering on painted sill or lower door edge
Soft spots or perforations in floor pan discovered under carpet
Rust staining in rear wheel arches or spare tyre well
Flaking or bubbling undercoating at suspension mounting points

What to check

Lift all floor carpets and inspect the floor pan directly, focusing on the centre tunnel, under second and third row seats, and the rear load area.
Probe all four inner sills firmly with a screwdriver to detect structural rust behind the paintwork.
Inspect both rear wheel arch lips and the spare tyre recess.
Check the sub-frame mounting reinforcements for flaking undercoating.
If a workshop inspection is possible: Lift the vehicle on a hoist for a full underbody inspection — a roadworthy check alone is insufficient to identify hidden rust.

Where to look: Floor pan, inner sills, rear wheel arches, spare tyre recess, sub-frame mounting points

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

“In which prefecture of Japan was this vehicle registered and primarily operated?”
“Has an independent underbody rust inspection been carried out by a workshop?”

04Front Lower Control Arm Bush Deterioration

Visually inspect the rubber bush material: cracking, splitting, or visible voids in the rubber are rejection criteria.2007 onwardSuspension$450–$1,100

Very commonSuspension $450–$1,100 to fix

The front lower control arms on ZRR70 and ZRR80 Noah models use rubber-bonded bushes at both the subframe pivot and the ball-joint end. These bushes deteriorate progressively in NZ conditions, combining UV degradation, road salt exposure, and the high vehicle weight of a fully-loaded 8-seat van. As the bushes soften and crack, the control arm develops angular movement under braking and cornering loads, causing vague steering, clunking, and uneven front tyre wear. The inner subframe bush deteriorates faster than the outer. Failed bushes cause the front suspension geometry to shift under load, making the vehicle difficult to align precisely. Replacement is typically carried out as a complete lower arm assembly rather than bush-only press-in repair, as most independent shops press the entire arm.

Symptoms to notice

Clunking or thumping from the front suspension over bumps, speed humps, or sharp road edges
Front end vagueness or wandering on straight roads, requiring constant small steering corrections
Uneven front tyre wear — excessive wear on inside or outside shoulder despite recent alignment
Vehicle pulling to one side under firm braking from highway speed

What to check

Visually inspect the rubber bush material: cracking, splitting, or visible voids in the rubber are rejection criteria. Check for fresh alignment report — if caster or camber is out of specification and the vehicle has new tyres, suspect bush wear preventing correct geometry. Drive over a sharp bump at low speed and listen for a thud or double-knock from the front. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grasp each front lower arm and attempt to move it vertically and rearward — any movement beyond 1–2 mm indicates bush wear.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, inner subframe pivot bush and outer arm-to-knuckle bush, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

“Has the vehicle had a recent wheel alignment, and did the report note any suspension wear?”
“Is there any clunking from the front when going over bumps or speed humps?”
“Have the front lower control arms or bushes been replaced?”

05Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

After a test drive of moderate length, carefully feel each wheel rim near the hub for unusual heat.2001 onwardBrakes$150–$480

CommonBrakes $150–$480 to fix

Both AZR60 and ZRR80 Noahs use sliding-caliper disc brakes at the front and typically drum or sliding-caliper disc brakes at the rear. The floating caliper design relies on two hardened steel guide pins coated in high-temperature grease to allow the caliper body to slide freely and apply equal pressure to both inner and outer brake pads. New Zealand's combination of road salt and high rainfall causes the guide pin bores to corrode, the rubber boots to crack, and the grease to wash out; once a pin seizes, the caliper cannot retract fully after braking, causing the outboard pad to drag continuously against the disc. This leads to accelerated pad and disc wear on one side, uneven braking, pulling under heavy stops, and in severe cases sufficient heat to distort the disc or boil the brake fluid locally.

Symptoms to notice

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking, requiring the driver to correct the steering
One wheel significantly hotter than its counterpart after normal driving, detectable by carefully feeling the wheel rim
Uneven brake pad wear with the outer pad worn much thinner than the inner pad on the same caliper
Grinding or squealing noise from one wheel even when the brake pedal is not applied, caused by a dragging pad

What to check

After a test drive of moderate length, carefully feel each wheel rim near the hub for unusual heat; a seized caliper will make one wheel noticeably hotter than its opposite. Inspect the guide pin dust boots for cracking or missing sections. Check pad thickness on both sides of each caliper; a significant difference between inner and outer pad thickness confirms caliper drag. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the wheels and attempt to slide each caliper by hand on its guide pins—it should move freely with light finger pressure.

Where to look: Front and rear brake caliper mounting brackets at each wheel; guide pins are the two bolts that allow the caliper body to slide on the bracket

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

“When were the brake calipers last serviced, including guide pin cleaning and re-greasing?”
“Does the car pull to either side when you apply the brakes firmly?”
“Have the brake pads and discs been replaced as a matched set, or have pads been replaced individually due to uneven wear?”

06Electric Power Steering Rack Knock and Rattle

Drive slowly over a speed bump or rough road surface and listen for a knock or rattle that coincides with steering wheel vibration.2007 onwardSuspension$300–$1,800

CommonSuspension $300–$1,800 to fix

Noah models of both ZRR70 and ZRR80 generations use an electric power steering (EPS) rack. A known failure mode is the development of a knock or rattle from the steering rack over road imperfections, caused by internal wear in the rack housing, worn tie-rod end sockets, or loosening of the EPS motor mount to the rack body. The rattle is distinct from suspension noise — it transmits directly through the steering column and is most evident at low speed over rough surfaces. In some cases the EPS motor drive gear or intermediate shaft splines develop lash, producing a knock on initial steering input from centre. Early intervention with tie-rod replacement or rack mount tightening can arrest the fault; a worn rack housing requires full rack replacement.

Symptoms to notice

Clunking or rattling noise from the steering rack area when driving over potholes or road joints
Knock felt through the steering wheel rim when hitting a bump while cornering
Loose or notchy feeling on-centre in the steering with slight free play before effort builds
Intermittent EPS warning light (orange steering wheel icon) during cold weather starts

What to check

Drive slowly over a speed bump or rough road surface and listen for a knock or rattle that coincides with steering wheel vibration.
With the vehicle stationary, have a second person sharply turn the wheel left and right while you listen under the bonnet for clunking from the rack or intermediate shaft.
Check for free play in the steering by gently rocking the wheel left and right — more than 10 mm of play at the rim before the rack moves indicates internal wear.
Inspect tie-rod ends for play by gripping and attempting to move them with the wheel straight.

Where to look: Steering rack behind front subframe, EPS motor on rack body, intermediate steering shaft

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

“Is there any knock or rattle from the steering when going over bumps?”
“Has the steering rack, tie-rod ends, or EPS components been serviced or replaced?”
“Does the steering feel tight and direct with no free play on-centre?”

07Rear Tailgate Hinge Rust and Seizure

Open and close the rear tailgate several times, noting smoothness — any resistance, creaking, or stiffness indicates hinge corrosion.2007–2014Body & Rust$250–$900

CommonBody & Rust $250–$900 to fix

The ZRR70 Noah uses a top-hinged rear tailgate with exposed steel hinges at the roofline junction. These hinges are prone to surface rust progressing to deep corrosion in NZ coastal and wet-climate conditions. The hinge pin and barrel corrode together, causing the tailgate to become stiff and eventually seize in the open or closed position. Secondary damage occurs when owners force a seized tailgate — the hinge plate tears away from the tailgate pressing, causing body damage that requires panel repair alongside hinge replacement. On ZRR80 models the tailgate uses a power liftgate mechanism; corrosion here affects the strut mounting points rather than the hinge pin, leading to strut bracket fatigue cracking.

Symptoms to notice

Rear tailgate stiff or creaking when opening, requiring increasing force over time
Visible orange rust on hinge pin barrels or around hinge mounting plates at roofline
Paint bubbling or blistering on body panel adjacent to upper tailgate hinges
Tailgate fails to latch fully or sits proud of body line on one side after forced opening

What to check

Open and close the rear tailgate several times, noting smoothness — any resistance, creaking, or stiffness indicates hinge corrosion. With tailgate open, inspect both hinge barrels and pins visually for surface rust, pitting, or seized movement. Check the hinge mounting plates on the body for bubbling paint or rust bleed, which indicates corrosion spreading behind the plate. Close the tailgate and inspect the seal line for even gap — a hinge that has shifted under corrosion load will show uneven gap or a misaligned lock latch.

Where to look: Rear tailgate upper hinge pins at roofline, and hinge mounting plates on tailgate and body

Parts involved: Body corrosion, Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

“Does the rear tailgate open and close smoothly without stiffness or creaking?”
“Have the tailgate hinges been inspected for rust or treated with any rust inhibitor?”
“Is there any paint bubbling or rust visible around the tailgate hinge area?”

Depends on the exact engine — 8 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.

Engine, transmission & cooling8

013ZR-FAE/FE Timing Chain Stretch and Tensioner Wear

Cold-start the engine and listen for 5 to 10 seconds for chain rattle from the timing cover at the front of the engine before oil pressure builds.petrol2007 onwardEngineCan't confirm for this car$1,200–$2,800

OccasionalEngine $1,200–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3ZR-FAE and 3ZR-FE engines use a single-row timing chain with a hydraulic tensioner. Extended oil change intervals or low oil levels starve the tensioner of pressure, allowing the chain to stretch. The 3ZR-FAE variant shows slightly earlier chain stretch onset compared to the 3ZR-FE, with cases reported from around 130,000 km with poor service history. A stretched chain disrupts VVT phasing and in severe cases can jump a sprocket tooth, causing catastrophic valve-to-piston contact.

Symptoms to notice

Cold-start rattling from front of engine that disappears within 30 seconds of oil pressure build-up
Check engine light with camshaft position or VVT timing codes
Rough idle during warm-up phase
Increasing rattle duration on cold starts as the fault progresses

What to check

Cold-start the engine and listen for 5 to 10 seconds for chain rattle from the timing cover at the front of the engine before oil pressure builds. Any rattle lasting more than a few seconds is a warning sign. Scan for camshaft timing, VVT, or crankshaft correlation codes. Request full service history to verify oil changes at intervals no longer than 10,000 km. Risk is highest above 150,000 km with an incomplete history.

Where to look: Timing chain inside front timing cover, front of engine

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

“Can you provide full service history showing consistent oil change intervals?”
“Has the timing chain or tensioner ever been inspected or replaced?”

021AZ-FSE High-Pressure Fuel Pump Failure

Request a fuel rail pressure test; pressure below specification at idle or under acceleration confirms pump wear.petrol2001–2007EngineCan't confirm for this car$800–$1,800

OccasionalEngine $800–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1AZ-FSE D-4 direct injection system requires a cam-driven high-pressure fuel pump to raise rail pressure to the levels needed for combustion-chamber injection. As the pump ages, wear to internal plunger surfaces and the cam follower, combined with sensitivity to degraded or contaminated fuel, reduces sustained rail pressure. Low rail pressure causes the ECU to attempt over-fuelling, producing a rich condition or hard hot-start that cannot be resolved by replacing the fuel filter alone.

Symptoms to notice

Hard hot-start requiring extended cranking
Rough idle and engine stumble under load
Hesitation on acceleration from low speed
DTC P0087 (fuel rail or system pressure too low)

What to check

Request a fuel rail pressure test; pressure below specification at idle or under acceleration confirms pump wear.
Check for stored DTCs relating to fuel system pressure or rail pressure sensor.
Inspect fuel filter and quality.
The HPFP on the AZR60G is a known failure part with replacement units widely listed for this specific chassis code.

Where to look: High-pressure fuel pump on cylinder head, driven by the exhaust camshaft

Parts involved: High-pressure fuel pump.

Ask the seller

“Has the high-pressure fuel pump ever been replaced?”
“Are there any stored fuel system fault codes?”

031AZ-FSE D4 Direct Injection Intake Valve Carbon Deposits

Check for rough idle, misfire DTCs (P0300-P0304), and smoke at idle.petrol2001–2007EngineCan't confirm for this car$550–$1,600

Very commonEngine $550–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1AZ-FSE engine uses Toyota's first-generation D4 direct injection system, which injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber rather than the intake port. Because fuel and its detergent additives never wash over the intake valves, oil vapour from the crankcase ventilation system accumulates on the back of the intake valves unchecked, baking into hard carbon deposits over time. These deposits progressively restrict airflow, disrupt the fuel-air mixture, and can cause misfires; severe buildup prevents the valves from seating fully, leading to compression loss in affected cylinders.

Symptoms to notice

Rough or lumpy idle that worsens when the engine is cold
Hesitation or stumble under light throttle acceleration
Persistent misfire fault codes (P0300–P0304) with no ignition or fuel system cause found
Reduced fuel economy compared to the engine's rated consumption

What to check

Check for rough idle, misfire DTCs (P0300-P0304), and smoke at idle.
Request any history of walnut blasting or chemical intake cleaning.
If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the intake ducting and use a borescope or mirror to view the back of the intake valves through the inlet ports; look for grey-black crusty buildup.

Where to look: Intake manifold and intake valve stems, accessible after removing the inlet tract on the top-front of the engine

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator.

Ask the seller

“Has the intake ever been walnut-blasted or chemically cleaned, and at what mileage?”
“Are there any current misfire warning lights or rough-idle conditions?”
“Does the engine hesitate when pulling away from a standing start?”

043ZR-FAE Excessive Oil Consumption via Valve Stem Seals

Check engine oil level — low level relative to recent top-up interval is a red flag.petrol2007–2014EngineCan't confirm for this car$700–$1,400

CommonEngine $700–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3ZR-FAE engine fitted to ZRR70 Noah models is documented to consume engine oil at above-normal rates as mileage accumulates, primarily due to hardening and shrinkage of the valve stem seals on both intake and exhaust valves. As the seals lose elasticity they allow oil to be drawn down the valve stems into the combustion chamber during the intake stroke and during overrun deceleration. This produces characteristic blue-grey smoke on startup and on trailing throttle. Oil consumption rates of 1 litre per 1,500–3,000 km are common on high-mileage examples. The repair requires a full valve stem seal replacement with the head on the engine, using a compressed-air lock on each cylinder.

Symptoms to notice

Blue-grey smoke from exhaust on cold startup, clearing within 30–60 seconds of running
Blue smoke visible in the rearview mirror when lifting off throttle at highway speed
Engine oil level 1–2 litres low between 5,000 km service intervals with no external leaks
Spark plugs showing black, oily fouling on tip and electrode

What to check

Check engine oil level — low level relative to recent top-up interval is a red flag.
Start cold engine and observe exhaust for blue smoke on initial start and during first 30 seconds of running.
Road test: lift off throttle from 80 km/h and watch exhaust for blue puff as engine braking begins.
Inspect spark plugs for oil fouling (black oily deposits on electrode).
Ask seller how often oil needs to be topped up between service intervals.

Where to look: Cylinder head, all intake and exhaust valve stems

Ask the seller

“How often do you need to add oil between services?”
“Is there any blue smoke visible on startup or when lifting off the accelerator?”
“When were the spark plugs last replaced, and were they oil-fouled?”

051AZ-FSE D-4 Fuel Dilution of Engine Oil

Pull the dipstick and smell for fuel contamination — oil should smell like oil, not petrol.petrol2001–2007EngineCan't confirm for this car$150–$600

CommonEngine $150–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

During cold starts the 1AZ-FSE D-4 engine enriches the fuel mixture and retards injection timing to aid warm-up. Unburned fuel puddles on cold cylinder walls and migrates past piston rings into the sump, diluting engine oil with petrol. Repeated short cold trips compound the effect, reducing oil viscosity well below its rated grade and accelerating bearing and piston wear. The problem is most severe in vehicles used predominantly for short urban journeys.

Symptoms to notice

Petrol smell detectable on the oil dipstick
Oil level rising above the maximum mark without any top-ups
Thin or watery oil texture on the dipstick
Increased engine wear if not addressed by shortened service intervals

What to check

Pull the dipstick and smell for fuel contamination — oil should smell like oil, not petrol.
Check whether the oil level reads above maximum without any top-ups having been performed.
Review service records for oil change intervals; vehicles used for short trips should show intervals shorter than 5,000 km.
Cold-start a known history vehicle and check for excessive white or rich exhaust smoke.

Where to look: Engine crankcase and oil sump

Ask the seller

“What was the typical journey length this vehicle was used for daily?”
“Were oil changes done more frequently than the factory-specified interval?”

06CVT (K112F) Belt Wear and Shudder

Test drive at steady 30–50 km/h on light throttle — note any vibration or judder transmitted through the drivetrain.petrol2007–2014TransmissionCan't confirm for this car$2,200–$5,500Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07Super CVT-i Belt Judder and Shudder Under Low-Load Acceleration

Test-drive at light throttle between 30 and 60 km/h on a flat road and note any rhythmic shudder or vibration through the floor.petrol2001–2007TransmissionCan't confirm for this car$180–$4,200

CommonTransmission $180–$4,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

AZR60G and AZR65G variants fitted with Toyota's Super CVT-i transmission can develop a pronounced shudder or judder during light-throttle low-speed acceleration, typically between 20 and 60 km/h. The condition is caused by microscopic slippage between the steel push-belt and the primary and secondary pulley faces when CVT fluid has degraded or the belt-clamping hydraulic pressure is at its minimum. Degraded fluid loses its friction-modifier properties, allowing stick-slip oscillations between the belt and pulleys that the driver feels as a rhythmic vibration or lurch; if left unaddressed the belt and pulley faces can develop micro-pitting that requires a full transmission overhaul.

Symptoms to notice

Rhythmic shudder or vibration felt through the floor and seat under gentle acceleration at low to moderate speeds
Condition improves or disappears at higher throttle openings or highway speeds
Hesitation or brief loss of drive during the judder event before the transmission catches up
CVT fluid that is dark brown, smells burnt, or has visible contamination on the dipstick

What to check

Test-drive at light throttle between 30 and 60 km/h on a flat road and note any rhythmic shudder or vibration through the floor.
Check CVT fluid condition on the dipstick: fluid should be clear pink-red; brown or dark fluid with a burnt smell indicates overheating or advanced degradation.
Ask for the CVT fluid service history; Toyota specifies genuine Toyota CVT fluid (TC) only.

Where to look: CVT unit mounted transversely beneath the engine bay; fluid dipstick or check plug accessible from above on the driver's side of the transmission

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

“Has the CVT fluid ever been changed, and what fluid type was used?”
“Is there any vibration or shudder felt when pulling away gently from a standstill?”
“Does the transmission feel smooth at all speeds or are there any hesitation events?”

08ZRR70 K112 CVT Belt Wear and Judder

The K112 CVT fitted to ZRR70 Noah develops shudder and slip as the belt surface wears.2007–2015TransmissionCan't confirm for this car

CommonTransmission

Can't confirm for this car

The K112 CVT fitted to ZRR70 Noah develops shudder and slip as the belt surface wears.

Symptoms to notice

The K112 CVT fitted to ZRR70 Noah develops shudder and slip as the belt surface wears.
Confirm with pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic

What to check

The K112 CVT fitted to ZRR70 Noah develops shudder and slip as the belt surface wears.

Where to look: See description

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Other Toyota Noah engines and years12 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.

Engine, transmission & cooling6

01Inverter Electric Coolant Pump Failure (P0A93)

With the engine warm, listen for a faint whirring from the inverter coolant pump near the front-left of the engine bay.hybrid2014 onwardCoolingDoes not apply$700–$6,000

OccasionalCooling $700–$6,000 to fix

Does not apply

The ZWR80 hybrid uses a dedicated electric water pump to circulate coolant through the power inverter. This pump is a known wear item across Toyota hybrid platforms and fails due to impeller erosion and motor brush wear, setting code P0A93. Without coolant flow the inverter overheats within minutes of sustained load; continued driving risks permanent inverter damage, turning a sub-$1,000 pump job into a $4,000–6,000 inverter replacement.

Symptoms to notice

P0A93 (Inverter Cooling System Performance) or P0A94 fault code stored
Hybrid system warning triangle illuminated
Audible grinding or absence of expected pump hum from engine bay on start-up
Inverter coolant reservoir level drops over time with no external leak
Vehicle enters reduced-power mode or shuts down hybrid drive under sustained acceleration

What to check

With the engine warm, listen for a faint whirring from the inverter coolant pump near the front-left of the engine bay. Check the inverter coolant reservoir (separate small tank, usually near the strut tower) for correct level and absence of rust-coloured contamination indicating pump seal wear. If a workshop inspection is possible: An OBD scanner should show no P0A93 or P0A94 codes.

Where to look: Engine bay, front-left: small electric pump on dedicated inverter coolant circuit; inverter mounted above transmission

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

“Has the inverter cooling pump ever been inspected or replaced, and can you show the service record?”
“Is there any history of hybrid system warning lights or reduced-power events?”
“Has the inverter coolant been flushed and refilled on schedule with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant?”

02Super CVT-i Fluid Degradation and Belt Shudder

The ZRR80 uses Toyota's Super CVT-i transmission, which relies on a steel push-belt running on variable-width pulleys.petrol2014–2021TransmissionDoes not apply$250–$7,000

OccasionalTransmission $250–$7,000 to fix

Does not apply

The ZRR80 uses Toyota's Super CVT-i transmission, which relies on a steel push-belt running on variable-width pulleys. When the CVT fluid degrades past its service life (typically past 60,000–80,000 km without change), the friction modifier additives break down, causing the belt-to-pulley contact to shudder under light load and during lockup transitions. Severe fluid neglect can score the pulleys and belt, requiring full transmission replacement rather than a fluid service.

Symptoms to notice

Shudder or vibration felt through the cabin under light throttle between 30–60 km/h
Hesitation or jerk on acceleration from a rolling stop
Whining or humming noise from the transmission that changes with road speed
Delayed engagement when selecting Drive from Park
Dark brown CVT fluid on inspection indicating additive breakdown

What to check

During the test drive, accelerate gently from 20–50 km/h and feel for a rhythmic shudder or vibration through the drivetrain distinct from engine vibration.
Ask to drain a small CVT fluid sample: it should be bright red or pink; dark brown or black fluid with a burnt smell indicates severe degradation.
Confirm service history includes CVT fluid changes; many grey imports arrive in NZ with no CVT service record.

Where to look: Transmission tunnel, CVT unit beneath the cabin floor pan

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

“Has the CVT fluid ever been changed, and if so, at what odometer reading and with what fluid specification?”
“Has the vehicle ever felt like it shudders or hesitates during gentle acceleration?”
“Has any transmission-related warning light appeared, or has the transmission been serviced or rebuilt?”

033ZR-FAE Valvematic Unit Failure

Cold-start the engine and monitor idle quality for the first 60–90 seconds: a stumbling, hunting or surging idle is the earliest indicator.petrol2014–2021EngineDoes not apply$2,000–$5,500

OccasionalEngine $2,000–$5,500 to fix

Does not apply

Toyota's Valvematic system on the 3ZR-FAE provides continuous variable intake valve lift via an intermediary shaft and eccentric actuator. The actuator motor and internal gearing are susceptible to wear and seizure, particularly when serviced with non-OEM oil or at extended intervals. A failed Valvematic unit cannot be repaired in isolation; the entire assembly requires replacement, making this one of the most expensive non-powertrain failures on the petrol Noah. Symptoms often present gradually as idle instability before a hard fault.

Symptoms to notice

Unstable or fluctuating idle, especially on cold start
P0011 (camshaft timing over-advanced) or Valvematic system DTCs
Reduced power output and sluggish throttle response
Rattle or knocking from the valve cover area at idle
Increased fuel consumption without other apparent cause

What to check

Cold-start the engine and monitor idle quality for the first 60–90 seconds: a stumbling, hunting or surging idle is the earliest indicator. Scan for codes P0011, P0021, or Valvematic-specific Toyota codes (P1349). Physically inspect the Valvematic actuator housing on the left side of the cylinder head for oil seepage, and ask whether 0W-20 Toyota-specified oil has been used consistently.

Where to look: Left (intake) side of cylinder head, between camshaft and valve train

Ask the seller

“Has the Valvematic system ever been inspected, serviced, or replaced?”
“What oil specification and change interval has been used — always 0W-20 or 5W-30 Toyota-approved?”
“Has the vehicle ever shown idle instability or engine management warning lights?”

043ZR-FAE Excessive Oil Consumption

Check oil level on dipstick and ask when it was last topped up.petrol2014–2022EngineDoes not apply$300–$4,500

CommonEngine $300–$4,500 to fix

Does not apply

The 3ZR-FAE 2.0L engine in ZRR80 Noah petrol models is affected by a piston ring design deficiency documented in Toyota service bulletins. Oil scraper rings accumulate carbon and lose effectiveness, allowing oil to be consumed in combustion. Consumption rates of one litre per 1,000 km have been reported. Unchecked low oil level leads to accelerated engine wear.

Symptoms to notice

Oil level dropping significantly between service intervals requiring mid-interval top-ups
Blue-grey smoke from exhaust on startup or under hard acceleration
Oil-fouled spark plugs on inspection
Low oil warning light appearing before the next scheduled service
Carbon deposits visible inside exhaust tip

What to check

Check oil level on dipstick and ask when it was last topped up.
Observe exhaust during cold start and under brisk acceleration for blue smoke.
Inspect spark plugs for oil fouling if accessible.
Request full oil service history to identify whether intervals have been shortened to compensate.

Where to look: Engine internal — piston rings and cylinder bores, 3ZR-FAE 2.0L four-cylinder

Ask the seller

“How often has the engine oil needed topping up between scheduled services?”
“Has any blue smoke been noticed from the exhaust during startup or acceleration?”
“Has any piston ring or oil consumption repair been carried out?”

05Front driveshaft knocking noise on take-off and low-speed manoeuvring

2022 onwardTransmissionDoes not apply$550–$1,200

OccasionalTransmission $550–$1,200 to fix

Does not apply

A recurring R90-specific driveline complaint is a knocking or clunking noise (owners describe it as 'kon-kon' / 'kotsu-kotsu') from the front of the car when moving off from a stop, braking to a stop, or manoeuvring at low speed. Japanese owner forums and workshop reports point to the front driveshaft / CV axle assembly, with affected cars having the shaft replaced under warranty; the problem has been common enough that replacement parts were reported to be on back-order in Japan. Notably it is reported by some owners unusually early for a driveshaft, from as little as roughly 20,000 to 40,000 km, which points to a component or design issue rather than normal wear.

Symptoms to notice

Knocking / clunking noise from the front when pulling away from a stop
Clunk felt or heard when coming to a stop or during low-speed manoeuvres
Noise more noticeable on light throttle take-up or when turning at low speed
Repetitive 'kon-kon' or 'kotsu-kotsu' sound rather than a continuous whine

What to check

Drive the car slowly from a standstill in a quiet area, both straight and on gentle turns, and listen for a knock or clunk from the front driveshaft area as drive takes up; repeat gently braking to a stop.
Under the car, inspect both front CV-axle boots for splits or grease throw and check for play in the shafts.
Ask for service history showing whether a driveshaft has already been replaced.

Where to look: Front driveshafts / CV axle assemblies (front-wheel-drive halfshafts)

Ask the seller

“Do you hear any knocking or clunking from the front when you move off or stop?”
“Has either front driveshaft or CV axle been replaced, and is there paperwork?”
“When did any driveshaft noise first appear and at what odometer reading?”
“Has the car ever been booked in for a driveline noise investigation?”

063ZR-FAE Intake Manifold and Throttle Body Carbon Fouling

With the engine warm and at idle, observe the tachometer for hunting or fluctuating RPM between 600–900 rpm.petrol2014–2021EngineDoes not apply$250–$700

CommonEngine $250–$700 to fix

Does not apply

The 3ZR-FAE's Valvematic system and intake design allow oil vapour from the PCV system to coat the intake manifold walls and throttle body plate over time. In higher-mileage examples this accumulation becomes thick enough to restrict airflow, causing erratic idle and hesitation. Unlike direct-injection engines where carbon loads the intake valves directly, the 3ZR-FAE's port injection keeps valves relatively clean, but the throttle body and manifold runners foul significantly without periodic cleaning.

Symptoms to notice

Idle RPM hunting or fluctuating between 600 and 1,000 rpm when warm
Hesitation or stumble on light throttle from standstill
Rough idle that improves after the engine reaches full operating temperature
Slight increase in fuel consumption without other mechanical cause
Occasional rough cold-start idle settling within 30–60 seconds

What to check

With the engine warm and at idle, observe the tachometer for hunting or fluctuating RPM between 600–900 rpm. Also check whether the idle stabilises after a light rev to 2,500 rpm, which temporarily clears deposits. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the air intake hose at the throttle body to inspect the throttle plate for thick black carbon deposits — some light coating is normal, heavy build-up above 2mm indicates neglect.

Where to look: Throttle body on top of engine at air intake junction; intake manifold runners along the top of the cylinder head

Parts involved: Intake manifold.

Ask the seller

“Has the throttle body or intake manifold been cleaned, and at what mileage?”
“Has the vehicle ever idled roughly or shown hesitation under light acceleration?”
“What is the service history showing PCV system maintenance or inspections?”

Electrical5

01High-Voltage Hybrid Battery Pack Degradation (P3000)

Request a hybrid battery state-of-health scan showing individual cell voltages and capacity percentage.hybrid2014 onwardElectricalDoes not apply$3,000–$8,500

CommonElectrical $3,000–$8,500 to fix

Does not apply

The nickel-metal hydride high-voltage battery pack (OEM #G9510-28070 on ZWR80) loses cell capacity over time and through thermal cycling, triggering diagnostic trouble code P3000 (Battery Control System fault). As individual cells weaken or fail, the battery management system reduces available power and fuel economy deteriorates markedly. On higher-mileage examples the system may enter a reduced-power limp mode or refuse to start the hybrid drive.

Symptoms to notice

Persistent P3000 or P3011–P3019 battery fault codes on OBD scan
Fuel economy noticeably worse than rated 23–26 km/L combined
Hybrid battery gauge swings rapidly or shows perpetually low charge
EV-only mode unavailable at low urban speeds
Triangle warning lamp and master warning illuminate on dash

What to check

Request a hybrid battery state-of-health scan showing individual cell voltages and capacity percentage.
On a test drive, watch for the hybrid battery gauge cycling rapidly between full and empty, or the combustion engine failing to shut off at low speeds where EV-only mode should engage.
Check the battery cooling fan behind the rear seat for dust blockage.

Where to look: Under rear passenger seat (HV battery pack); cooling fan intake on rear cabin floor

Ask the seller

“Has the high-voltage battery ever been replaced or reconditioned, and is there documentation?”
“Has the vehicle had a hybrid system health check at a Toyota dealer or hybrid specialist recently?”
“Is the battery cooling fan cleaned regularly, and has it ever been replaced?”

022ZR-FXE Hybrid HV Battery Cell Degradation

The ZWR80-series Noah hybrid uses a NiMH high-voltage battery pack located under the rear seat.hybrid2014 onwardElectricalDoes not apply$2,000–$5,000

CommonElectrical $2,000–$5,000 to fix

Does not apply

The ZWR80-series Noah hybrid uses a NiMH high-voltage battery pack located under the rear seat. Individual cell modules degrade at different rates causing voltage imbalance across the pack, reducing usable capacity and triggering protection codes. A frequently overlooked accelerant is the HV battery cooling fan, which draws cabin air through a filter near the rear seat base; a clogged filter causes sustained battery overheating that significantly accelerates cell degradation and can cause premature pack failure.

Symptoms to notice

Hybrid system warning light or Check Hybrid System message on dash
Fuel economy noticeably below factory specification
HV battery state-of-charge dropping faster than normal between journeys
DTCs P3000 or block-specific codes P3020 through P3027

What to check

Physically inspect the HV battery cooling fan filter located at the base of the rear seat or B-pillar — heavy clogging indicates the battery has been running hot. Request battery balance test data showing voltage spread across all modules under load; a spread greater than 0.3 V across blocks indicates a failing pack. Confirm the 12 V auxiliary battery is healthy as a weak 12 V battery can trigger false P3000 codes. If a workshop inspection is possible: Scan all hybrid-specific fault codes using a Toyota-compatible tool rather than a generic OBD-II reader.

Where to look: Under rear seat (HV battery pack); cooling fan intake at rear seat base or lower B-pillar

Ask the seller

“Has the hybrid battery been professionally tested or any modules replaced?”
“When was the HV battery cooling fan filter last cleaned?”
“Are there any hybrid system warning codes currently stored?”

03ZRR80 Hybrid Battery Cooling Duct Blockage and Overheating

Start the vehicle and place your hand near the duct exhaust outlet (typically near the C-pillar trim): you should feel airflow.hybrid2014 onwardElectricalDoes not apply$150–$4,500

OccasionalElectrical $150–$4,500 to fix

Does not apply

The ZRR80W Noah Hybrid uses the 2ZR-FXE petrol-electric drivetrain with a nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) traction battery pack housed under the rear seats. The battery is cooled by a cabin-air duct that draws air through an intake grille beneath the rear seats. This grille and duct accumulate carpet fibres, dust, and debris over time, severely restricting airflow and causing the battery management system to detect elevated cell temperatures. Persistent overheating degrades individual battery cells, reducing hybrid system capacity and triggering the red hybrid system warning. In severe cases the battery management system limits regenerative braking and electric motor assist, causing a permanent reduction in fuel economy and performance.

Symptoms to notice

Red hybrid system warning triangle on dashboard, sometimes with reduced power mode engaged
Fuel economy noticeably worse than expected — hybrid not deploying EV assist at low speeds
Cooling fan audible at high speed from rear of cabin in warm weather, even at rest
Hybrid battery state-of-charge gauge fluctuating rapidly or not charging to full during regenerative braking

What to check

Start the vehicle and place your hand near the duct exhaust outlet (typically near the C-pillar trim): you should feel airflow.
Check dashboard for any red or amber hybrid system warning icons.
A cell voltage spread greater than 0.3V at rest indicates degradation.
If a workshop inspection is possible: Use a scan tool capable of reading hybrid battery data (Toyota Techstream or equivalent) to view cell voltage spread and battery temperature values.
Lift the rear seat cushion and inspect the battery cooling intake grille — it should be clear of lint and debris.

Where to look: Traction battery under rear passenger seat; cooling intake grille on rear seatbase; cooling duct routing to battery pack

Ask the seller

“Has the hybrid battery cooling duct and intake grille been cleaned?”
“Are there any hybrid system warning lights showing now or in recent history?”
“Has the hybrid battery been tested for cell balance and capacity?”

0412V Auxiliary Battery Premature Failure (Hybrid)

Ask when the 12V battery was last replaced.hybrid2014 onwardElectricalDoes not apply$200–$500Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Display Audio head unit glitches (freeze, no shut-off, video-while-driving)

The R90 Noah/Voxy Display Audio / Display Audio Plus head unit is the most consistently complained-about item on this generation.2022 onwardElectricalDoes not apply$150–$900

CommonElectrical $150–$900 to fix

Does not apply

The R90 Noah/Voxy Display Audio / Display Audio Plus head unit is the most consistently complained-about item on this generation. Toyota issued an official improvement measure in April 2022 (announced 13 April 2022) covering roughly 30,000 units built between September 2021 and April 2022, because a control-program fault could leave a TV/video image showing on screen while driving instead of switching off. Beyond that fix, owners widely report the screen freezing or rebooting, laggy touch response, Bluetooth/CarPlay dropouts, and the display failing to turn off after the car is shut down (a quick-start setting a dealer can adjust). Because these are software/electronic faults they typically appear from near-new, often under 20,000 km, rather than developing with age.

Symptoms to notice

Touchscreen freezes or reboots on its own
Screen stays on / does not switch off after the car is turned off
Bluetooth or Apple CarPlay / Android Auto disconnects or fails to pair
Laggy or unresponsive touch input
Video or TV image remaining on screen while driving (pre-fix cars)

What to check

On a test drive confirm the head unit boots promptly, the touchscreen responds without lag, Bluetooth pairs to your phone, and the screen powers off when the ignition is switched off. Ask whether the April 2022 display-audio improvement measure / software update has been applied and check for any pending software updates in the settings menu.

Where to look: Centre dashboard Display Audio touchscreen head unit

Ask the seller

“Has the April 2022 display-audio software update / improvement measure been carried out?”
“Does the screen ever freeze, reboot, or stay on after you switch the car off?”
“Do Bluetooth and CarPlay/Android Auto connect reliably every time?”
“Is the map/navigation software the latest available version?”

Body, brakes, suspension & interior1

01Power Sliding Door Cable Corrosion and Motor Failure

Manually cycle both sliding doors fully open and closed while listening for grinding, hesitation, or irregular pauses.2014 onwardBody & RustDoes not apply$400–$1,800Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Toyota Noah faults in detail

Narrowed to the Toyota Noah · 2007. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

CVT (K112F) Belt Wear and ShudderMajor · Transmission

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Noah’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Prado64 documented faults Toyota RAV463 documented faults Toyota Hilux59 documented faults Toyota Vitz27 documented faults Toyota Harrier26 documented faults Toyota Belta25 documented faults

Toyota Noah buyer questions

Is the Toyota Noah reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 27 documented faults for the Toyota Noah, the recurring problem areas are cooling, suspension, and electrical. A Toyota Noah with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Noah?

We've catalogued 27 known faults for the Toyota Noah, covering cooling, suspension, and electrical. All 27 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Noah?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Noah fall between $320–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 27 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Noah?

Yes. A Toyota Noah inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.