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Audi2011–2023 Critical issues documented

Audi S6: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Audi S6 (2011–2023) in New Zealand? We've documented 9 known faults for this model spanning engine, transmission, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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9

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$1,600–$5,500

Typical repair

15

Service milestones

Which Audi S6 are you looking at?

4 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

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Can't confirm for this car

Audi S6

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Audi S6 before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Cold-start the engine and listen for chain rattle from the front/right of the engine in the first 5-10 seconds before oil pressure builds.

    See why

    3.0 TDI B-bank Timing Chain Tensioner and Sprocket Failure

    The B-bank (right cylinder bank) timing chain tensioner loses hydraulic pressure or the plastic chain guide wears through on the CDUD and CKVB 3.0 TDI V6. The chain can jump teeth or snap, bending valves and causing catastrophic engine damage. The failure occurs without warning and is more pronounced on high-mileage examples that have not had regular oil changes with specified low-SAPS oil. Audi issued a TSB and extended warranty in some markets but this is not universally covered.

    What you would notice

    • Rattling or chattering noise from the right front of the engine on cold start that fades as oil pressure builds
    • Engine management warning light with P0016, P0017, P0018 or P0019 camshaft correlation codes
    • Rough running or misfires after the chain jumps teeth
    • Sudden complete engine failure if the chain snaps
    • Oil consumption above 0.5 L per 1,000 km as an early indicator of wear

    Typically $3,500–$22,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Test all gear positions including reverse for smooth engagement.

    See why

    S-Tronic DL501 Mechatronic Unit Failure

    The 7-speed DL501 S-Tronic dual-clutch gearbox fitted to A6 C7 models houses its shift solenoids, clutch pressure control valves, and electronic control module in a single mechatronic unit submerged in transmission fluid. Heat from the wet clutch pack and electrical cycling degrade the unit's circuit board solder joints and solenoid windings. Solenoid failure disrupts clutch pressure and gear-selector regulation, producing erratic shifts, limp mode, or a complete inability to select gears. The integrated design means the entire mechatronic unit must be replaced or rebuilt rather than repairing individual components.

    What you would notice

    • Harsh, jerky, or delayed gear changes — particularly 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th
    • Gearbox warning light and PRNDS indicator flashing on the dashboard
    • Transmission entering limp mode and refusing to shift above first or second gear
    • Loss of reverse or inability to select drive after starting the engine

    Typically $3,500–$7,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Park on a level surface overnight and check front ride height in the morning before starting.

    See why

    Air Suspension Front Strut Air Bladder Failure

    The C7 A6 Adaptive Air Suspension uses rubber air bladder bellows on each front strut. The front bladders are prone to cracking at the convolute folds due to rubber degradation from UV exposure, ozone, and repeated compression cycles over time. A cracked bladder causes a slow or rapid air leak, dropping the front ride height — typically most visible after the vehicle has sat overnight. The air compressor attempts to compensate by running excessively, eventually burning out the compressor motor if the leak is not repaired. Replacement with genuine Audi bladders is required for lasting reliability; budget aftermarket units carry high re-failure rates in Australasian UV conditions.

    What you would notice

    • Front of vehicle sitting noticeably lower than rear, especially after overnight parking
    • Air suspension warning or chassis fault message on MMI display
    • Compressor cycling audibly when vehicle is parked or at idle
    • Uneven front ride height left-to-right
    • Vehicle drops to bumpstops on cold mornings with advanced bladder failure

    Typically $1,600–$5,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect ride height at all four corners for consistency.

    See why

    Air Suspension Strut Perishing and Compressor Failure (C7)

    The C7 A6 equipped with air suspension (standard on some Quattro variants and optional on others) uses air struts with rubber air bags that perish with age. Cracked air bags cause one or more corners to sag. The compressor runs continuously to compensate, overheating and burning out. Both front and rear struts fail; rear struts are the most common failure point on C7 examples in NZ. Given the age of C7 imports now entering the NZ used market, this fault is increasingly common and is frequently undisclosed by private sellers.

    What you would notice

    • Car sitting noticeably lower at one or more corners when parked
    • Air suspension or chassis fault warning on the Audi MMI cluster
    • Compressor audible running continuously from the boot area
    • Hissing noise from a wheel arch, particularly at the rear

    Typically $1,200–$5,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect the vehicle after it has sat overnight — check all four corners are at equal, correct ride height.

    See why

    Adaptive Air Suspension Compressor and Height Sensor Failure

    The optional (and fitted as standard on many A6 variants sold in NZ/AU) Audi air suspension uses an electric compressor to maintain air spring pressure and four height sensors to communicate ride height to the control module. The compressor motor brushes wear out and the compressor membrane cracks, while the potentiometric height sensors corrode at their pivot points or suffer wiring harness chafing near the wheel arch. Both faults trigger the suspension warning light and can cause the vehicle to sit noticeably low on one or more corners overnight. Continued driving on a failed compressor accelerates air strut wear.

    What you would notice

    • Suspension warning light and message 'Suspension fault: do not exceed 80 km/h'
    • Vehicle sitting visibly lower on one corner or all corners after an overnight park
    • Audible compressor running continuously or for long periods after start-up
    • Uneven or bouncy ride quality on one axle compared to the other
    • Fault codes for height sensor implausible signal stored in the suspension control module

    Typically $900–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Repeat at 12 and 6 o'clock positions to check wheel bearing and strut top mount.

    See why

    C7 Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint and Bush Failure

    The C7-generation A6 uses a multi-link front suspension with aluminium lower wishbones. The pressed-in rubber bushings at the front and rear of the lower control arm deteriorate from age and road grime, causing clunking over bumps and vague steering response. More critically, the lower ball joint (either integral to the arm or a separate pressed-in unit depending on the variant) wears through its housing, producing a knocking sound under braking and cornering. A failed ball joint is a loss-of-control risk. Audi specifies replacement of the complete arm rather than bush-only or ball-joint-only repair on most configurations.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking sound from the front suspension when driving over speed bumps, pot holes, or rough road joins
    • Steering wander or vagueness on straight roads, requiring constant small corrections
    • Steering wheel pulling to one side under braking on a smooth road
    • Visible cracking or deformation of the rubber bush boots on the lower control arm
    • Premature or uneven front tyre wear across the tread width

    Typically $1,600–$4,000 to put right.

Audi S6 service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Audi S6. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Audi S6 C8 · 2019–2026 · 3.0L TDI V6 Turbo - Quattro Sedan/Avant (European/NZ Market)

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    First major service interval; transmission fluid and differential oils should be inspected for long-term drivetrain longevity.

  2. 100,000 km

    Engine mounts and suspension air bags may show wear here, depending on the road surfaces travelled.

  3. 120,000 km

    Cooling system components, such as the water pump and thermostat housing, may warrant a proactive check to maintain optimal engine temperature.

Audi S6 C8 · 2019–2026 · 2.9L TFSI V6 Twin-Turbo - Quattro Sedan/Avant

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Transmission fluid and filter service maintains smooth power delivery.

  2. 90,000 km

    Review the brake discs and pads, especially given the S6's performance capabilities.

  3. 120,000 km

    Have a specialist inspect the cooling system hoses and auxiliary water pump as a proactive measure for long-term reliability.

Audi S6 C7 · 2012–2018 · 4.0L TFSI V8 Twin-Turbo - Quattro Sedan/Avant

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Routine major service, including spark plugs and transmission fluid change.

  2. 90,000 km

    Proactive inspection of the PCV valve and engine mount condition.

  3. 120,000 km

    Confirm the health of the turbocharger oil screen and cooling system components.

Audi S6 C6 · 2006–2011 · 5.2L V10 FSI - Quattro Sedan/Avant

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Full transmission fluid and filter service, alongside checking all ignition coils.

  2. 150,000 km

    Major inspection of the auxiliary cooling system, checking the vacuum lines for integrity.

  3. 200,000 km

    Review the suspension dampers and ensure all electronic modules report correctly without fault codes.

Audi S6 C5 · 1999–2003 · 4.2L V8 (AQJ/ANK) - Quattro Sedan/Avant

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Original suspension components and cooling system hoses have likely reached the end of their design life.

  2. 200,000 km

    Verify the timing belt service is documented, a critical maintenance interval for the 4.2L V8.

  3. 250,000 km

    Check for minor oil weepage from valve cover gaskets, and inspect vacuum lines for brittleness.

See all 9 documented issuesEverything researched for the Audi S6, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Audi S6 has — 9Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling5

013.0 TDI B-bank Timing Chain Tensioner and Sprocket Failure

Cold-start the engine and listen for chain rattle from the front/right of the engine in the first 5-10 seconds before oil pressure builds.diesel2011–2019Engine
CommonEngine $3,500–$22,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The B-bank (right cylinder bank) timing chain tensioner loses hydraulic pressure or the plastic chain guide wears through on the CDUD and CKVB 3.0 TDI V6. The chain can jump teeth or snap, bending valves and causing catastrophic engine damage. The failure occurs without warning and is more pronounced on high-mileage examples that have not had regular oil changes with specified low-SAPS oil. Audi issued a TSB and extended warranty in some markets but this is not universally covered.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or chattering noise from the right front of the engine on cold start that fades as oil pressure builds
  • Engine management warning light with P0016, P0017, P0018 or P0019 camshaft correlation codes
  • Rough running or misfires after the chain jumps teeth
  • Sudden complete engine failure if the chain snaps
  • Oil consumption above 0.5 L per 1,000 km as an early indicator of wear

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine and listen for chain rattle from the front/right of the engine in the first 5-10 seconds before oil pressure builds.
  2. Pull oil filler cap and inspect for metal swarf.
  3. Request full service history showing correct oil specification (VW 507.00).
  4. Check for any Audi extended warranty or goodwill repair history on this specific fault.

Where to look: Right (B-bank) side of the V6 engine, front timing cover area

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain ever been inspected or replaced, and do you have documentation of oil changes using VW 507.00 specification oil?”
  • “Has the car ever shown a cold-start rattle or any camshaft correlation fault codes, even if cleared?”

02S-Tronic DL501 Mechatronic Unit Failure

Test all gear positions including reverse for smooth engagement.2011–2018Transmission
CommonTransmission $3,500–$7,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 7-speed DL501 S-Tronic dual-clutch gearbox fitted to A6 C7 models houses its shift solenoids, clutch pressure control valves, and electronic control module in a single mechatronic unit submerged in transmission fluid. Heat from the wet clutch pack and electrical cycling degrade the unit's circuit board solder joints and solenoid windings. Solenoid failure disrupts clutch pressure and gear-selector regulation, producing erratic shifts, limp mode, or a complete inability to select gears. The integrated design means the entire mechatronic unit must be replaced or rebuilt rather than repairing individual components.

Symptoms to notice

  • Harsh, jerky, or delayed gear changes — particularly 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th
  • Gearbox warning light and PRNDS indicator flashing on the dashboard
  • Transmission entering limp mode and refusing to shift above first or second gear
  • Loss of reverse or inability to select drive after starting the engine

What to check

  1. Test all gear positions including reverse for smooth engagement.
  2. Ask for any transmission service history including fluid and filter changes.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Connect a diagnostic tool capable of reading transmission-specific codes and check for P17D8 (clutch torque limitation), P176A through P176D (gear selector regulation faults), and P17D6 or P17D7 (clutch pressure faults) — these confirm mechatronic failure.

Where to look: Inside the S-Tronic gearbox casing, accessible after partial gearbox removal

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the S-Tronic mechatronic unit been replaced or rebuilt?”
  • “Any history of harsh shifts, limp mode, or a gearbox warning light?”
  • “Is there a record of transmission fluid and filter service?”

033.0 TFSI DKNA Timing Chain Tensioner Wear

Cold-start the vehicle from overnight-cold and listen for chain rattle from the top of the engine in the first 10 seconds.petrol2018 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $3,500–$12,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The EA839 3.0 TFSI V6 (DKNA) in the C8 A6 uses hydraulic chain tensioners and plastic guide rails on both camshaft drive banks. Under extended oil service intervals or low oil pressure at start-up, the tensioners lose pre-load and the chains develop elongation on one or both banks. The condition presents as a brief cold-start rattle that clears within seconds as oil pressure builds. If ignored the chains can develop enough slack to cause camshaft timing variance on both banks independently. Early intervention limits repair to tensioner and guide rail replacement; delayed repair risks camshaft and valve damage on a fresh-generation engine.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Brief cold-start chain rattle from engine top-end clearing within 5-10 seconds
  • Camshaft timing correlation fault codes on one or both banks in P0016 group
  • Slightly rough cold idle that smooths at operating temperature
  • Check engine light appearing after extended cold-start drives
  • Increased oil consumption noted alongside chain noise in advanced cases

What to check

  1. Cold-start the vehicle from overnight-cold and listen for chain rattle from the top of the engine in the first 10 seconds.
  2. Scan for camshaft correlation fault codes on both banks.
  3. Review oil service history — the DKNA requires 0W-20 long-life specification oil changed no later than every 15,000 km under Australasian conditions.
  4. Inspect for seepage around the timing cover.

Where to look: Both camshaft chain banks at front of EA839 V6 engine behind the front plastic timing cover

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “What oil grade and brand has been used and has the correct 0W-20 specification always been followed?”
  • “Has any cold-start chain rattle been noticed or any timing-related fault codes appeared?”
  • “Have the timing chain tensioners or guide rails ever been replaced or inspected by Audi?”
  • “Does the dealer or specialist have a record of any camshaft bank correlation fault codes?”

04AdBlue SCR System NOx Sensor and Injector Failure (Post-Euro 6 3.0 TDI)

Scan for P20EE (SCR catalyst efficiency below threshold), P2201/P2202 (NOx sensor), and P204F (reductant system performance) codes.diesel2015–2023Engine
OccasionalEngine $600–$9,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Euro 6 compliant 3.0 TDI variants (CKVB and later) use a selective catalytic reduction (SCR) system with AdBlue injection to reduce NOx emissions. The NOx sensor upstream and downstream of the SCR catalyst, as well as the AdBlue dosing injector and its heating element, are documented failure points. A failed NOx sensor or blocked injector triggers an escalating warning system: after a set number of engine starts the car enters a performance-limited mode, and eventually will not start until the fault is repaired and reset by a dealer. AdBlue injector nozzle carbonising is particularly common in low-mileage city-use vehicles.

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Warning message 'AdBlue: Have system checked by a workshop' with a countdown of permitted engine starts
  • Reduced engine power or refusal to start after the fault countdown expires
  • P20EE, P2201, or P204F fault codes on diagnostic scan
  • White crystalline residue around the AdBlue filler cap or tank area indicating past leakage
  • Engine running rough or slightly rich under load if the NOx sensor is providing incorrect feedback

What to check

  1. Scan for P20EE (SCR catalyst efficiency below threshold), P2201/P2202 (NOx sensor), and P204F (reductant system performance) codes.
  2. Check the AdBlue tank level and inspect the filler neck for crystallised AdBlue (white powdery residue indicating past overfill or contamination).
  3. Ask the seller when the AdBlue was last topped up and whether genuine AdBlue meeting ISO 22241 specification was used — contamination with water or wrong fluid kills the injector and catalyst.

Where to look: NOx sensors on the exhaust system downstream of the diesel particulate filter; AdBlue injector on the exhaust pipe ahead of the SCR catalyst, typically near the rear axle

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any AdBlue or SCR system warning light appeared, and has the car ever entered a reduced-start countdown mode?”
  • “Can you confirm what brand and specification of AdBlue has been used, and whether the system has ever been diagnosed for NOx or catalyst faults?”

052.0 TFSI and 3.0 TFSI Intake Valve Carbon Deposit Buildup

Ask for service records showing when (if ever) the intake valves were walnut blasted.petrol2011–2023Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

All TFSI petrol engines in the A6 use gasoline direct injection (GDI), where fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber rather than the intake port. This means fuel never washes the intake valves, and oil vapor from the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system coats the valve stems and backs with hard carbon deposits over time. By 60,000-100,000 km the deposits restrict airflow enough to cause rough idle, misfires, and reduced power. The only effective remedy is walnut shell blasting of the intake ports, which requires intake manifold removal.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough idle that is most pronounced when the engine is cold and improves as it warms up
  • Hesitation and stumble during light throttle acceleration in lower RPM range
  • Slightly reduced power and fuel economy compared to a known good example
  • Occasional misfires logged as P030X codes without any ignition or injector fault found
  • Carbon deposits visible through the intake ports on borescope inspection

What to check

Ask for service records showing when (if ever) the intake valves were walnut blasted. Vehicles using the PCV system that has been serviced regularly show slower buildup. Request a borescope inspection of the intake valves through the intake ports after removing the air cleaner assembly — heavy deposits appear as grey/black walnut-shell-shaped buildup around the valve head. If a workshop inspection is possible: Compare cylinder balance data from a scan tool; imbalanced cylinders often indicate restricted valves.

Where to look: Intake valves inside the cylinder head, accessible via the intake ports after manifold removal

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator, Intake manifold.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the intake valves ever been walnut blasted or carbon cleaned, and at what mileage?”
  • “Has the car ever exhibited a rough idle or hesitation at light throttle that was attributed to the engine?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior4

01Air Suspension Front Strut Air Bladder Failure

Park on a level surface overnight and check front ride height in the morning before starting.2011–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $1,600–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The C7 A6 Adaptive Air Suspension uses rubber air bladder bellows on each front strut. The front bladders are prone to cracking at the convolute folds due to rubber degradation from UV exposure, ozone, and repeated compression cycles over time. A cracked bladder causes a slow or rapid air leak, dropping the front ride height — typically most visible after the vehicle has sat overnight. The air compressor attempts to compensate by running excessively, eventually burning out the compressor motor if the leak is not repaired. Replacement with genuine Audi bladders is required for lasting reliability; budget aftermarket units carry high re-failure rates in Australasian UV conditions.

Symptoms to notice

  • Front of vehicle sitting noticeably lower than rear, especially after overnight parking
  • Air suspension warning or chassis fault message on MMI display
  • Compressor cycling audibly when vehicle is parked or at idle
  • Uneven front ride height left-to-right
  • Vehicle drops to bumpstops on cold mornings with advanced bladder failure

What to check

  1. Park on a level surface overnight and check front ride height in the morning before starting.
  2. Listen for compressor running when the car is parked.
  3. Spray soapy water around the base of each front strut and along the rubber bellows convolutes to identify air bubbles indicating leaks.
  4. Scan suspension module fault codes via VCDS.
  5. Confirm compressor run time has not been excessive — a damaged compressor from a long-running bladder leak adds $800-$1,800 to repair cost.

Where to look: Front left and front right air strut assemblies — rubber bellows section visible mid-strut behind wheel arch liner

Parts involved: Air suspension strut, Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the air suspension ever dropped, triggered a fault light, or been repaired for leaks?”
  • “Have any front or rear air struts or the air compressor been replaced?”
  • “Does the car sit level front and rear when you come back to it after leaving overnight?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever been driven on failed or collapsed air suspension?”

02Air Suspension Strut Perishing and Compressor Failure (C7)

Inspect ride height at all four corners for consistency.petrol2011–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $1,200–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The C7 A6 equipped with air suspension (standard on some Quattro variants and optional on others) uses air struts with rubber air bags that perish with age. Cracked air bags cause one or more corners to sag. The compressor runs continuously to compensate, overheating and burning out. Both front and rear struts fail; rear struts are the most common failure point on C7 examples in NZ. Given the age of C7 imports now entering the NZ used market, this fault is increasingly common and is frequently undisclosed by private sellers.

Symptoms to notice

  • Car sitting noticeably lower at one or more corners when parked
  • Air suspension or chassis fault warning on the Audi MMI cluster
  • Compressor audible running continuously from the boot area
  • Hissing noise from a wheel arch, particularly at the rear

What to check

  1. Inspect ride height at all four corners for consistency.
  2. Listen near each wheel arch with the engine off for air leaks.
  3. Scan the suspension control module for fault codes including compressor overtemperature.
  4. Confirm whether the car raises and lowers correctly across all height settings.
  5. Ask how long the fault has been present.

Where to look: Air struts at each corner; air suspension compressor in the rear of the boot or spare wheel well

Parts involved: Air suspension strut, Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car sit level at all four corners at all times, including after sitting overnight?”
  • “Has any air strut or the compressor been replaced?”
  • “Any suspension warning lights active or recorded in history?”

03Adaptive Air Suspension Compressor and Height Sensor Failure

Inspect the vehicle after it has sat overnight — check all four corners are at equal, correct ride height.2011–2023Suspension
CommonSuspension $900–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The optional (and fitted as standard on many A6 variants sold in NZ/AU) Audi air suspension uses an electric compressor to maintain air spring pressure and four height sensors to communicate ride height to the control module. The compressor motor brushes wear out and the compressor membrane cracks, while the potentiometric height sensors corrode at their pivot points or suffer wiring harness chafing near the wheel arch. Both faults trigger the suspension warning light and can cause the vehicle to sit noticeably low on one or more corners overnight. Continued driving on a failed compressor accelerates air strut wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Suspension warning light and message 'Suspension fault: do not exceed 80 km/h'
  • Vehicle sitting visibly lower on one corner or all corners after an overnight park
  • Audible compressor running continuously or for long periods after start-up
  • Uneven or bouncy ride quality on one axle compared to the other
  • Fault codes for height sensor implausible signal stored in the suspension control module

What to check

  1. Inspect the vehicle after it has sat overnight — check all four corners are at equal, correct ride height.
  2. Start the engine and listen for the compressor running for an extended period (more than 30 seconds) to maintain pressure, indicating a leak.
  3. Check the height sensor linkage rods at all four corners for corrosion or play.
  4. Scan for fault codes C10B3, C10B7 (height sensors) and C0795 (compressor circuit).
  5. Check the compressor reservoir under the rear floor for moisture contamination.

Where to look: Compressor located in the spare wheel well or boot floor; height sensors at each wheel knuckle with a linkage rod to the control arm

Parts involved: Air suspension strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the air suspension compressor or any of the height sensors been replaced, and does the system hold ride height overnight?”
  • “Has the suspension warning light ever appeared, and has any suspension fault been diagnosed or cleared?”

04C7 Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint and Bush Failure

Repeat at 12 and 6 o'clock positions to check wheel bearing and strut top mount.2011–2018Suspension
CommonSuspension $1,600–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The C7-generation A6 uses a multi-link front suspension with aluminium lower wishbones. The pressed-in rubber bushings at the front and rear of the lower control arm deteriorate from age and road grime, causing clunking over bumps and vague steering response. More critically, the lower ball joint (either integral to the arm or a separate pressed-in unit depending on the variant) wears through its housing, producing a knocking sound under braking and cornering. A failed ball joint is a loss-of-control risk. Audi specifies replacement of the complete arm rather than bush-only or ball-joint-only repair on most configurations.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking sound from the front suspension when driving over speed bumps, pot holes, or rough road joins
  • Steering wander or vagueness on straight roads, requiring constant small corrections
  • Steering wheel pulling to one side under braking on a smooth road
  • Visible cracking or deformation of the rubber bush boots on the lower control arm
  • Premature or uneven front tyre wear across the tread width

What to check

Repeat at 12 and 6 o'clock positions to check wheel bearing and strut top mount. Inspect the lower control arm bushings for cracking or collapse — the rear bush in particular tends to split. On a test drive, listen for clunking over road joins and check for steering wander on straight roads. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grasp each front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and attempt to rock it — any clunk or detectable movement at the ball joint is a failure.

Where to look: Front lower control arm (wishbone) on both sides, particularly the rear bush and outboard ball joint

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension been inspected recently, and have any control arms, ball joints, or bushings been replaced?”
  • “Has the car passed its most recent WOF inspection with no suspension advisories, and does the steering feel tight and responsive?”

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Audi S6’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Audi models

Audi S6 buyer questions

Is the Audi S6 reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 9 documented faults for the Audi S6, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and suspension. A Audi S6 with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Audi S6?

We've catalogued 9 known faults for the Audi S6, covering engine, transmission, and suspension. All 9 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Audi S6?

Most single repairs on the Audi S6 fall between $1,600–$5,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 9 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Audi S6?

Yes. A Audi S6 inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.