BMW 3 Series: 3.0L six-cylinder turbo actuator sticking / VNT low boost (330d / 335d)
3.0L six-cylinder turbo actuator sticking / VNT low boost (330d / 335d) is a common engine fault on the BMW 3 Series on the 2006–2013 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $1,500 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 88 documented faults on the BMW 3 Series.
- Vehicle
- BMW 3 Series
- Engine
- 3.0L
- Years
- 2006–2013
- Fuel
- diesel
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The 3.0-litre diesels use variable-geometry turbos (the 335d runs two turbos in sequence) whose electronic actuators seize and whose vane mechanisms clog with soot, causing sudden, severe power loss - often the car drops to roughly half power and goes into limp mode. Turning the engine off and on can temporarily clear it, but it always returns and worsens. BMW does not sell the actuator separately from the turbo, so a dealer fix can mean a whole turbo assembly; independents often rebuild or replace just the actuator far more cheaply. Very characteristic of the 3.0d six.
What you would notice
- Sudden loss of about half power / limp mode
- Power returns after an engine restart then fails again
- Boost-pressure or turbo-actuator fault codes
- Whistling or lack of pull under load
How to check it
Where to look. Turbocharger(s) and electronic actuator, exhaust side of the engine
On the test drive, do a couple of firm accelerations to confirm strong, smooth boost with no sudden power drop or limp mode. Have it scanned for boost/actuator codes. Ask whether either turbo or its actuator has been replaced (the 335d has two turbos to consider).
What it costs to put right
$1,500 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Does it ever drop into limp mode or lose power then recover after a restart?”
- “Has a turbo or turbo actuator been replaced?”
Now check the BMW 3 Series you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- ECU Testing 'BMW 3 Series Turbo Actuator Problem'
- e90post.com 'M57N2 multiple turbo failures' thread
- SINSPEED BMW 3 Series electronic turbo actuator repairs
BMW 3 Series buyer questions
Is 3.0l six-cylinder turbo actuator sticking / vnt low boost (330d / 335d) serious on a BMW 3 Series?
We rate it major and common on the BMW 3 Series. The 3.0-litre diesels use variable-geometry turbos (the 335d runs two turbos in sequence) whose electronic actuators seize and whose vane mechanisms clog with soot, causing sudden, severe power loss - often the car drops to roughly half power and goes into limp mode. Turning the engine off and on can temporarily clear it, but it always returns and worsens. BMW does not sell the actuator separately from the turbo, so a dealer fix can mean a whole turbo assembly; independents often rebuild or replace just the actuator far more cheaply. Very characteristic of the 3.0d six.
How much does it cost to fix on a BMW 3 Series?
$1,500 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which BMW 3 Series years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2006–2013 BMW 3 Series. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
On the test drive, do a couple of firm accelerations to confirm strong, smooth boost with no sudden power drop or limp mode. Have it scanned for boost/actuator codes. Ask whether either turbo or its actuator has been replaced (the 335d has two turbos to consider). Look here: Turbocharger(s) and electronic actuator, exhaust side of the engine