BMW 3 Series: N54 3.0L twin-turbo wastegate rattle / turbo failure (335i E90/E92)
N54 3.0L twin-turbo wastegate rattle / turbo failure (335i E90/E92) is a very common engine fault on the BMW 3 Series on the 2007–2013 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $3,500 to $7,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 88 documented faults on the BMW 3 Series.
- Vehicle
- BMW 3 Series
- Only on
- Bi-Turbo / twin-turbo
- Engine
- N54
- Years
- 2007–2013
- Fuel
- petrol
- System
- Engine
What you are looking at
No photograph available
What goes wrong
The twin-turbo N54 335i is famous for wastegate rattle: the wastegate actuator arms and flaps wear, so on cold start and when lifting off the throttle you hear a metallic rattle from the turbos. It starts as a nuisance but progresses to boost creep, under-boost and eventually turbo failure (worn bearings, oil seals, smoky exhaust). BMW extended the turbo warranty on early N54s but that has long expired, so a rattling 335i is a real cost risk. Reconditioning or replacing the pair is a big-ticket job.
What you would notice
- Metallic rattle from the engine on cold start and when lifting off throttle
- Whistle, flutter or inconsistent boost
- Loss of power / limp mode
- Blue or grey smoke from the exhaust under load
How to check it
Where to look. Twin turbochargers low on the exhaust side of the 3.0L six
Start the car dead cold and listen at the front-right of the engine for a rattle; blip and release the throttle and listen for the rattle on overrun.
On a test drive feel for surging or flat boost.
Ask for evidence of any turbo or wastegate work and check the service history for boost-related fault codes.
What it costs to put right
$3,500 to $7,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.
Ask the seller
- “Do the turbos rattle on cold start or overrun?”
- “Have the turbos or wastegates ever been reconditioned or replaced?”
- “Has it ever gone into limp mode or thrown boost codes?”
Now check the BMW 3 Series you are actually looking at
Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.
Where this comes from
- bmwtuning.co – 8 Most Common BMW N54 Engine Problems (135i/335i/535i)
- ThreePiece.us – BMW 335i N54 Problems
- JB4tech.com N54 wastegate rattle thread
BMW 3 Series buyer questions
Is n54 3.0l twin-turbo wastegate rattle / turbo failure (335i e90/e92) serious on a BMW 3 Series?
We rate it major and very common on the BMW 3 Series. The twin-turbo N54 335i is famous for wastegate rattle: the wastegate actuator arms and flaps wear, so on cold start and when lifting off the throttle you hear a metallic rattle from the turbos. It starts as a nuisance but progresses to boost creep, under-boost and eventually turbo failure (worn bearings, oil seals, smoky exhaust). BMW extended the turbo warranty on early N54s but that has long expired, so a rattling 335i is a real cost risk. Reconditioning or replacing the pair is a big-ticket job.
How much does it cost to fix on a BMW 3 Series?
$3,500 to $7,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.
Which BMW 3 Series years are affected?
Our research records this fault on the 2007–2013 BMW 3 Series. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.
How do I check for it before I buy?
Start the car dead cold and listen at the front-right of the engine for a rattle; blip and release the throttle and listen for the rattle on overrun. On a test drive feel for surging or flat boost. Ask for evidence of any turbo or wastegate work and check the service history for boost-related fault codes. Look here: Twin turbochargers low on the exhaust side of the 3.0L six