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Ford1988–2017 Critical issues documented

Ford Fairmont: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Ford Fairmont (1988–2017) in New Zealand? We've documented 24 known faults for this model spanning engine, transmission, cooling, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Ford Fairmont

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

24

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$600–$1,800

Typical repair

6

Systems covered

Which Ford Fairmont are you looking at?

2 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it? These cover every year of this model.

Start your free check on this Ford Fairmont

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Fairmont came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Ford Fairmont

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Ford Fairmont before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect both radiator end tanks for hairline cracks, staining, or brittle discolouration.

    See why

    4.0L Inline-6 Radiator Plastic End-Tank Cracking (EA-EL)

    The EA through EL Falcon 4.0L inline-six uses a crimped aluminium-core radiator with injection-moulded plastic end tanks. The plastic becomes brittle with age and heat cycling, cracking at the crimp joint and failing to contain coolant. On any EA-EL Falcon retaining the original radiator, tank failure is a near certainty; collapse can be sudden rather than a gradual weep.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant loss without obvious external leak in early stages
    • Cracked or brittle plastic visible at top or bottom radiator tank
    • Rising temperature gauge
    • Steam from engine bay
    • Dried coolant residue or white staining around tank crimp joints

    Typically $300–$600 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    This is the single most expensive thing that goes wrong with a BA or early BF, and you can check it in two minutes before you even drive the car.

    See why

    Radiator's built-in transmission cooler lets coolant into the gearbox - 'the milkshake' (BA and BF before BF II)

    On BA and early BF automatics the transmission fluid is cooled by a heat exchanger built into the bottom tank of the radiator. When the wall between the two circuits corrodes, pressurised engine coolant is forced into the transmission and transmission fluid escapes into the coolant. The result is a pink-brown frothy mixture - hence the nickname - that destroys the clutch packs and valve body, often within a few hundred kilometres. It also leaves contamination sitting in the cooler lines, so a rebuilt gearbox is ruined again if the radiator and lines are not replaced and flushed at the same time. Ford moved to an external transmission cooler from BF II onwards, which is why the later cars do not do it. There was never a recall, so the whole bill falls on the owner. This is a different failure from the radiator simply cracking and losing coolant: here the two fluids mix internally and the gearbox is the thing that dies.

    What you would notice

    • Pink, brown or frothy 'strawberry milkshake' fluid on the transmission dipstick
    • Oily film or brown scum floating in the coolant expansion tank
    • Coolant level dropping with no external leak anywhere
    • Harsh, slipping or flaring gearchanges
    • Transmission warning or the car dropping into limp mode

    Typically $3,500–$8,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check coolant level and inspect for white residue around the intake manifold.

    See why

    Barra 4.0 inline-6 plastic intake manifold crack causing coolant loss

    The Barra 4.0L inline-six used in BA, BF, and early FG Falcons has a plastic lower intake manifold prone to cracking at the coolant crossover passage and lower gasket face. This causes coolant loss, overheating, and potential hydrolocking if coolant enters cylinders via intake ports. The failure is well-documented across Australian workshops and is one of the most common Barra failures on high-mileage examples. Replacement manifolds (or upgraded alloy units) are readily available in the AU aftermarket.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant loss without visible external leak
    • White smoke from exhaust
    • Overheating, particularly at highway speeds
    • Coolant smell from engine bay
    • Milky oil on dipstick in severe cases

    Typically $600–$2,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Lift front of car and check for play in lower ball joint by grasping the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rocking firmly.

    See why

    Front lower control arm ball joint failure

    Front lower control arm ball joints on the BA through FG Falcon platform are a known wear item with a documented failure rate on higher-mileage examples. Joint failure allows the wheel to change camber unpredictably and in severe cases the joint can separate, causing loss of steering control. A failed joint is a critical safety defect. The lower arm includes the ball joint as a replaceable component on most variants, making repair more affordable than whole-arm replacement.

    What you would notice

    • Knocking or clunking from front suspension over bumps
    • Vibration through steering wheel over rough road
    • Uneven or rapid tyre wear on front axle
    • Vehicle pulling to one side

    Typically $350–$1,200 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Listen on cold start for chain rattle from the front and top of the engine.

    See why

    Boss 5.4 V8 secondary timing chain stretch and guide failure

    The 5.4L V8 Barra used in the GT and XR8 models (BF onwards) has a secondary timing chain between the two cam sprockets. These secondary chains and their plastic guides deteriorate over time and mileage. A stretched or broken guide allows the chain to jump, causing timing errors, rough running, and potential valve-to-piston contact on higher-revving examples. Failure often begins with rattling on cold start. Timing chain replacement is labour-intensive on the DOHC V8.

    What you would notice

    • Rattling or clattering noise from engine on cold start
    • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes
    • Rough running or hesitation at all engine speeds
    • Engine misfire that worsens under load

    Typically $2,500–$8,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Start the engine from cold, rest your hand on the gear lever and feel for a regular shake or hesitation that a healthy six simply does not have.

    See why

    Barra six coil-pack breakdown causing a cylinder misfire (BA/BF)

    The Barra six runs one ignition coil per cylinder sitting directly on top of each spark plug. The moulded resin around the windings hardens with heat and develops hairline cracks - often too fine to see - and the spark leaks out through the body of the coil into the cylinder head instead of jumping the plug gap. That cylinder stops firing under load, the engine light comes on, and raw fuel goes down the exhaust. Left alone the unburnt fuel cooks the catalytic converter, which is the bill that actually hurts. Coils on these engines run at very high voltage and specialists report cheap replacement coils failing again within 20,000 km, so the brand fitted matters. They are normally replaced as a set of six along with the spark plugs.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder or stumble under load, worst uphill or in damp weather
    • Engine warning light on, or flashing during acceleration
    • Rough lumpy idle, sometimes only when cold or damp
    • Clear loss of power and a jerky feel on part throttle
    • Smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust

    Typically $250–$950 to put right.

See all 24 documented issuesEverything researched for the Ford Fairmont, including 6 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Ford Fairmont has — 23Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling16

01Boss 5.4 V8 secondary timing chain stretch and guide failure

Listen on cold start for chain rattle from the front and top of the engine.petrol2005–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $2,500–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 5.4L V8 Barra used in the GT and XR8 models (BF onwards) has a secondary timing chain between the two cam sprockets. These secondary chains and their plastic guides deteriorate over time and mileage. A stretched or broken guide allows the chain to jump, causing timing errors, rough running, and potential valve-to-piston contact on higher-revving examples. Failure often begins with rattling on cold start. Timing chain replacement is labour-intensive on the DOHC V8.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clattering noise from engine on cold start
  • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes
  • Rough running or hesitation at all engine speeds
  • Engine misfire that worsens under load

What to check

  1. Listen on cold start for chain rattle from the front and top of the engine.
  2. Scan for P0016/P0017 or cam correlation codes.
  3. Ask if the car has had any timing work done.
  4. High-mileage V8 Falcons should have documented chain inspection.

Where to look: Front of engine – secondary timing chain and upper plastic guides

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Has there ever been a rattling noise on cold start?”
  • “Are there any engine warning lights or fault codes present?”

02Radiator's built-in transmission cooler lets coolant into the gearbox - 'the milkshake' (BA and BF before BF II)

This is the single most expensive thing that goes wrong with a BA or early BF, and you can check it in two minutes before you even drive the car.petrol2002–2006Transmission
CommonTransmission $3,500–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On BA and early BF automatics the transmission fluid is cooled by a heat exchanger built into the bottom tank of the radiator. When the wall between the two circuits corrodes, pressurised engine coolant is forced into the transmission and transmission fluid escapes into the coolant. The result is a pink-brown frothy mixture - hence the nickname - that destroys the clutch packs and valve body, often within a few hundred kilometres. It also leaves contamination sitting in the cooler lines, so a rebuilt gearbox is ruined again if the radiator and lines are not replaced and flushed at the same time. Ford moved to an external transmission cooler from BF II onwards, which is why the later cars do not do it. There was never a recall, so the whole bill falls on the owner. This is a different failure from the radiator simply cracking and losing coolant: here the two fluids mix internally and the gearbox is the thing that dies.

Symptoms to notice

  • Pink, brown or frothy 'strawberry milkshake' fluid on the transmission dipstick
  • Oily film or brown scum floating in the coolant expansion tank
  • Coolant level dropping with no external leak anywhere
  • Harsh, slipping or flaring gearchanges
  • Transmission warning or the car dropping into limp mode

What to check

This is the single most expensive thing that goes wrong with a BA or early BF, and you can check it in two minutes before you even drive the car. With the engine cold, look into the coolant expansion tank with your phone torch: clean coloured coolant is fine, but an oily brown film, scum around the neck or a milkshake colour is not. Then pull the transmission dipstick, which sits at the back of the engine on the passenger side, and wipe it on a white tissue: healthy fluid is clear red and smells sharp, contaminated fluid is pink-brown, cloudy or frothy. Look where the two gearbox cooler pipes run into the bottom of the radiator for weeping or crusty pink residue. On the test drive, note any flare between gears or a change that arrives late and then thumps in. Ask whether an external transmission cooler has been fitted and the radiator one bypassed, and ask for the invoice, because that is the permanent fix and it makes the car a much safer buy. Ask when the radiator was last replaced and when the transmission fluid and filter were last changed.

Where to look: Bottom tank of the radiator at the front of the engine bay where the two transmission cooler pipes enter; the evidence shows on the transmission dipstick and in the coolant expansion tank.

Parts involved: Radiator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has an external transmission cooler been fitted and the radiator one bypassed?”
  • “Has the radiator ever been replaced, and when?”
  • “When was the transmission fluid and filter last changed?”
  • “Has the gearbox ever been rebuilt or replaced?”

03Barra 4.0L Hydraulic Timing Chain Tensioner Failure

The Barra 4.0L I6 uses a hydraulic primary timing chain tensioner that is oil-pressure dependent.petrol2008–2016Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,200–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Barra 4.0L I6 uses a hydraulic primary timing chain tensioner that is oil-pressure dependent. The one-way check valve inside the tensioner can fail, allowing the tensioner to bleed down when the engine is off and the chain to go slack on restart. High-mileage engines also see wear in the timing chain itself and the plastic chain guides, compounding the slack. A failed tensioner left unrepaired risks catastrophic timing chain jump or snap.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud chain slap noise on cold start, deeper and more rhythmic than VCT phaser rattle
  • Rattle or slap sound from front of engine that does not fully disappear on warm-up
  • Engine hesitation or misfire if chain has jumped a tooth
  • Check engine light with misfire or cam correlation codes after chain jump

What to check

On a fully cold start, listen for a loud chain slap (deeper and more rhythmic than phaser rattle) from the front of the engine that persists for more than 3–4 seconds. Check for any history of tensioner or chain replacement. Look for oil sludge on the dipstick which accelerates guide wear. Any example above 200,000 km should be considered high-risk without documented tensioner service.

Where to look: Front of engine behind timing cover, driver side

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or tensioner ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any record of oil sludge or extended oil change intervals that could accelerate guide wear?”
  • “Has the engine ever made a chain-slap noise on cold start?”

04Barra 4.0 inline-6 plastic intake manifold crack causing coolant loss

Check coolant level and inspect for white residue around the intake manifold.petrol2002–2014Cooling
CommonCooling $600–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Barra 4.0L inline-six used in BA, BF, and early FG Falcons has a plastic lower intake manifold prone to cracking at the coolant crossover passage and lower gasket face. This causes coolant loss, overheating, and potential hydrolocking if coolant enters cylinders via intake ports. The failure is well-documented across Australian workshops and is one of the most common Barra failures on high-mileage examples. Replacement manifolds (or upgraded alloy units) are readily available in the AU aftermarket.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss without visible external leak
  • White smoke from exhaust
  • Overheating, particularly at highway speeds
  • Coolant smell from engine bay
  • Milky oil on dipstick in severe cases

What to check

  1. Check coolant level and inspect for white residue around the intake manifold.
  2. Look for evidence of coolant weeping at the lower manifold face and coolant crossover.
  3. Check oil for milky contamination.
  4. Inspect coolant for oily film.
  5. Request maintenance history for any overheating events.

Where to look: Lower intake manifold coolant crossover, top of engine

Parts involved: Intake manifold.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the intake manifold been replaced or inspected for cracks?”
  • “Has the car ever overheated or needed coolant top-ups?”
  • “Has any coolant leak been found or repaired?”

054.0L Inline-6 Radiator Plastic End-Tank Cracking (EA-EL)

Inspect both radiator end tanks for hairline cracks, staining, or brittle discolouration.petrol1988–1998Cooling
Very commonCooling $300–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The EA through EL Falcon 4.0L inline-six uses a crimped aluminium-core radiator with injection-moulded plastic end tanks. The plastic becomes brittle with age and heat cycling, cracking at the crimp joint and failing to contain coolant. On any EA-EL Falcon retaining the original radiator, tank failure is a near certainty; collapse can be sudden rather than a gradual weep.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss without obvious external leak in early stages
  • Cracked or brittle plastic visible at top or bottom radiator tank
  • Rising temperature gauge
  • Steam from engine bay
  • Dried coolant residue or white staining around tank crimp joints

What to check

  1. Inspect both radiator end tanks for hairline cracks, staining, or brittle discolouration.
  2. Squeeze tanks gently when cool to detect flexing at cracks.
  3. Check coolant level and condition in reservoir.
  4. Look for coolant staining on nearby hoses and fan shroud.

Where to look: Engine bay front, radiator upper and lower end tanks at the crimp joint to aluminium core

Parts involved: Radiator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the radiator been replaced since new?”
  • “Any coolant loss or overheating incidents?”
  • “When was coolant last replaced or inspected?”

06Boss 5.4 Oil Consumption and Piston Ring Wear

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2008–2016Engine
CommonEngine $3,850–$7,700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

High-mileage Boss 5.4 engines exhibit elevated oil consumption, typically above 1L per 3,000 km. Piston ring land wear and valve stem seal degradation are the primary causes. Blue smoke on overrun or hard acceleration is the visible symptom. This leads to fouled spark plugs, increased fuel consumption, and catalyst contamination. While ring replacement requires a full engine rebuild, valve stem seal replacement can be performed with the head in situ using a compressed-air hold technique.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue or white smoke from exhaust
  • Fault codes or irregular readings when scanned

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Catalytic converter.

07Boss 5.4 DOHC Cam Phaser Rattle and Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2008–2016Engine
CommonEngine $2,240–$4,480 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 5.4L DOHC Boss V8 uses variable cam timing phasers (VCT) on both intake and exhaust camshafts. Phaser vanes wear and the locking pins fail to seat under low oil pressure or at low RPM. The characteristic symptom is a loud metallic rattle from the front of the engine at idle or cold start, which may clear as oil pressure builds. Worn phasers can cause retarded cam timing, misfires, and rough running. Replacement of the phaser assemblies and associated VCT solenoids is required. This fault is closely linked to oil change interval compliance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle or knock from engine
  • Engine misfire or rough idle
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup
  • Low oil pressure warning light

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

08ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission Solenoid Wear (FG/FGX)

During test drive, check all upshifts for smoothness from rest and at highway speed.petrol2008–2016Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,200–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZF 6HP26 six-speed automatic fitted to FG and FGX Falcon is robust but the electro-hydraulic solenoids controlling gear selection wear and clog at high mileage when fluid is not serviced. ZF specifies lifetime fluid but this is not appropriate for Australian and NZ operating conditions; neglected fluid degrades and deposits varnish on solenoid bores, causing shift hesitation, harsh engagement, and fault codes. Solenoid replacement or valve body rebuild is the usual repair.

Symptoms to notice

  • Delayed or harsh 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts
  • Transmission warning light on instrument cluster
  • Hesitation or stumble pulling away from a stop
  • Transmission hunting between gears at cruise
  • P0750-P0770 range solenoid circuit fault codes

What to check

  1. During test drive, check all upshifts for smoothness from rest and at highway speed.
  2. Scan transmission module for stored or active solenoid codes.
  3. Check ZF fluid level and condition — ZF fluid should be pink or red; dark brown or burnt-smelling fluid indicates the transmission has been neglected.

Where to look: Automatic transmission valve body, solenoid pack assembly accessible via transmission sump removal

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the ZF transmission fluid ever been changed, and at what mileage?”
  • “Any hesitation, harsh shifts, or transmission warning lights?”
  • “Has the transmission been inspected or serviced for shift quality issues?”

095-Speed Automatic Torque Converter Lock-Up Shudder (BA/BF)

On the test drive, cruise at 80-100km/h on a smooth road with light constant throttle.petrol1998–2008Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,500–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The BA and BF Falcon fitted with the 5-speed automatic transmission exhibits torque converter shudder — a vibration felt through the drivetrain at light throttle when the converter clutch applies in top gear. The fault is caused by glazed converter clutch friction material and is often temporarily suppressed by a fluid change using friction modifier additive. Persistent cases require torque converter replacement.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or vibration through the seat and steering wheel at 60-100km/h under light throttle
  • Vibration resembles rough road surface but occurs on smooth bitumen
  • Feels like brief drivetrain buzz during converter lock-up engagement
  • Disappears under hard acceleration or when converter unlocks
  • May temporarily improve following a transmission fluid change with friction modifier

What to check

On the test drive, cruise at 80-100km/h on a smooth road with light constant throttle. Any shudder through seat or steering wheel in this condition indicates converter lock-up shudder. Check transmission fluid for burnt smell or dark brown colour indicating heat damage.

Where to look: Automatic transmission torque converter, lock-up clutch friction material inside converter body

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Any shudder or vibration when cruising at highway speeds?”
  • “Has the transmission fluid been changed with friction modifier additive?”
  • “Has the torque converter been replaced?”

10Barra 4.0L NA Timing Chain Guide Wear

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2002–2017Engine
CommonEngine $1,680–$3,360 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The naturally aspirated Barra I6 shares the same plastic timing chain guide design as the turbo variant. Guide wear and tensioner degradation produce a cold-start rattle that worsens over time. The AU-series Barra (pre-2002) used an earlier guide profile that is more prone to early cracking. Failure of a guide at high mileage can cause chain jump and bent valves. Inspection and replacement of the full timing chain kit is recommended at or before 200,000 km.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle or knock from engine
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup
  • Difficult cold start or unstable idle

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Timing chain.

11BTR 4-Speed Automatic Valve Body and Servo Failure

Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).petrol1988–2008Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,260–$2,520 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The BTR M93LE 4-speed automatic used in AU and early BA Falcons develops worn valve body bores and failing servo pistons over time. Symptoms include harsh or delayed 2-3 upshifts, converter shudder, and slipping under load. The servo bore for the 2nd gear band can wear oval, preventing the band from applying with full force. A valve body recondition or replacement resolves most shift quality issues; worn servo bores require a full rebuild. Fluid and filter service at the correct interval (every 40,000 km) significantly extends service life.

Symptoms to notice

  • Transmission slipping between gears
  • Harsh or delayed gear changes
  • Transmission fluid leak

What to check

  1. Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).
  2. Test shift quality through all gears.
  3. Look for slipping, delay or harsh engagement.

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

12Barra 4.0L VCT Cam Phaser Rattle on Cold Start

petrol2008–2016Engine
Very commonEngine $600–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Variable Cam Timing (VCT) phaser on the Barra 4.0L I6 develops internal wear in the phaser locking pins and oil galleries over time, causing a pronounced metallic rattle at start-up before oil pressure builds sufficiently to engage the mechanism. The rattle typically lasts 2–10 seconds and worsens with age, high mileage, and infrequent oil changes. If left unaddressed the phaser can slip, retarding cam timing and reducing power, or fragment and damage the timing chain.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from front of engine for 2–10 seconds on cold start
  • MIL illuminated with P0011 (camshaft timing over-advanced) or P0016 (crankshaft/camshaft correlation) DTCs
  • Reduced power or rough idle once engine warms, indicating phaser slip
  • Rattling sound returns intermittently under hard acceleration when oil is hot and thin

What to check

  1. Start a cold engine (not warmed up at all) and listen immediately for a metallic tapping or rattling from the front of the engine lasting more than 2 seconds.
  2. Rev to 2000 RPM and check if rattle persists.
  3. Pull codes for P0011/P0016 cam correlation faults.
  4. Ask for evidence of regular 5,000–7,500 km oil change intervals using correct 5W-30.

Where to look: Front of engine, timing cover area — passenger side cam phaser on inlet cam

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the VCT phaser or phaser solenoid ever been replaced, and do you have the receipt?”
  • “What oil change interval has been followed and what viscosity oil is used?”
  • “Have any engine fault codes related to cam timing been present or cleared?”

13Boss 5.0L V8 Oil Consumption via PCV System

Check the engine oil level cold after a known mileage interval — ask the seller how much oil has been added between services.petrol2008–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $400–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The Boss 5.0L V8 in the FG GT/GT-P Falcon has a documented tendency toward elevated oil consumption driven by a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system that routes oil vapour back through the intake manifold. Over time the PCV hoses and baffle become oil-saturated and can allow liquid oil to be ingested, accelerating combustion chamber deposits and spark plug fouling. Affected engines consume 1 litre per 2,000–3,000 km and may exhibit blue smoke at start-up.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil consumption of 1 litre or more per 2,000–3,000 km without external leaks
  • Blue smoke from exhaust on cold start, clearing once warm
  • Oily residue visible inside air intake duct or on throttle body butterfly
  • Spark plugs fouled with oil deposits or excessive carbon
  • Rough idle or misfire at cold start from oil-contaminated plugs

What to check

  1. Check the engine oil level cold after a known mileage interval — ask the seller how much oil has been added between services.
  2. Inspect the air intake duct and throttle body for oily residue.
  3. Start the engine cold and look for blue-tinged smoke from the exhaust for the first 30 seconds.
  4. Pull spark plugs and inspect for oil fouling or carbon deposits.
  5. Inspect PCV hose connections at the cam covers for swelling or oil weeping.

Where to look: Engine valley / intake manifold — PCV hose routing from cam covers to intake

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator.

Ask the seller

  • “How much oil does the engine consume between services, and does the owner top it up between changes?”
  • “Has blue smoke been noticed at start-up, particularly when the car has been sitting overnight?”
  • “Has the PCV system or intake manifold been inspected or cleaned?”

14Water Pump Bearing and Seal Failure

Inspect coolant colour and level.petrolCooling
CommonCooling $455–$910 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The OEM water pump on the Barra NA I6 uses a pressed-steel impeller and a bearing that is susceptible to wear from coolant contamination. Seal failure allows coolant to weep from the pump snout weep hole, which is a pre-failure indicator. Bearing failure produces a rumble or squeal from the front of the engine and can allow the pump to wobble, damaging the timing cover seal. Complete replacement is required. The pump is driven by the serpentine belt on Barra NA engines and is accessible without major disassembly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup

What to check

  1. Inspect coolant colour and level.
  2. Check for white exhaust smoke or sweet smell indicating coolant in combustion.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Pressure test the system.

Parts involved: Water pump.

154.0L Inline-6 Plastic Intake Manifold Cracking (AU Series)

With engine running at idle, listen for hissing from the intake manifold area.petrol1998–2003Engine
CommonEngine $400–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The AU Falcon introduced a composite plastic intake manifold on the revised 4.0L inline-six. The manifold cracks at port runners and along the plenum body from heat cycling and material degradation over time. Cracks cause significant unmetered air entry, upsetting fuel trim and causing rough idle, lean misfires, and in some cases vacuum system failures affecting the brake booster. A well-documented and widely reported AU-generation specific defect.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough or uneven idle
  • Lean misfire codes P0171 or P0174 stored in ECU
  • Hissing air noise audible from engine bay at idle
  • Hesitation or stumble under light throttle
  • Hard starting when engine is at operating temperature

What to check

With engine running at idle, listen for hissing from the intake manifold area. Spray a small amount of carburetor cleaner carefully along manifold seams and port runners — a change in idle speed indicates a vacuum leak at that point. Visually inspect the manifold plastic for cracks, particularly at port runners and plenum body joins.

Where to look: Top of engine, plastic intake manifold and plenum assembly spanning all six cylinders

Parts involved: Intake manifold.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the intake manifold been replaced or repaired?”
  • “Any rough idle or hesitation complaints?”
  • “Any lean-related fault codes in the ECU?”

16Plastic Thermostat Housing Cracking

Inspect coolant colour and level.petrolCooling
CommonCooling $266–$532 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

AU and early BA Barra 4.0L NA engines use a plastic thermostat housing bolted to the aluminium engine block. Thermal cycling causes the housing to crack at the coolant outlet neck or the bolt boss, causing coolant loss. The crack is often on the underside and not immediately visible. Coolant loss is gradual initially, then sudden when the crack propagates. The fix is replacement with either an updated plastic housing or an aftermarket aluminium unit. Water pump failure commonly accompanies housing failure on high-mileage units.

An annotated photograph of an automotive engine thermostat identifying the wax capsule and both disc valves.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A double-valve engine thermostat, labelled: the wax capsule is what sticks.

Dougsim · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay
  • Fault codes or irregular readings when scanned

What to check

  1. Inspect coolant colour and level.
  2. Check for white exhaust smoke or sweet smell indicating coolant in combustion.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Pressure test the system.

Parts involved: Thermostat.

Electrical2

01PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Failure

Scan ECU for stored and pending fault codes.petrolElectrical
CommonElectrical $840–$1,680 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

BA and BF Falcon PCMs are prone to internal solder joint cracking and MOSFET failure due to thermal cycling and the PCM's location in the engine bay on some variants. Faults manifest as intermittent no-start, stalling, loss of injector pulse, and fault codes that cannot be cleared. A failed PCM will not communicate with a scan tool. The unit is not serviceable by the owner and requires either a new unit (programmed to the vehicle) or a specialist remanufactured unit. PIN/immobiliser data must be transferred or re-coded on replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Difficult starting or battery drain
  • Fault codes stored in ECU

What to check

  1. Scan ECU for stored and pending fault codes.
  2. Test all electronic functions.
  3. Check battery voltage and alternator output.

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

02Barra six coil-pack breakdown causing a cylinder misfire (BA/BF)

Start the engine from cold, rest your hand on the gear lever and feel for a regular shake or hesitation that a healthy six simply does not have.petrol2002–2008Electrical
Very commonElectrical $250–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Barra six runs one ignition coil per cylinder sitting directly on top of each spark plug. The moulded resin around the windings hardens with heat and develops hairline cracks - often too fine to see - and the spark leaks out through the body of the coil into the cylinder head instead of jumping the plug gap. That cylinder stops firing under load, the engine light comes on, and raw fuel goes down the exhaust. Left alone the unburnt fuel cooks the catalytic converter, which is the bill that actually hurts. Coils on these engines run at very high voltage and specialists report cheap replacement coils failing again within 20,000 km, so the brand fitted matters. They are normally replaced as a set of six along with the spark plugs.

A four-cylinder ignition coil rail removed from an engine, beside a steel rule for scale.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A coil-on-plug ignition rail, removed. One coil per cylinder.

Cschirp · CC BY-SA 3.0 de · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or stumble under load, worst uphill or in damp weather
  • Engine warning light on, or flashing during acceleration
  • Rough lumpy idle, sometimes only when cold or damp
  • Clear loss of power and a jerky feel on part throttle
  • Smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust

What to check

  1. Start the engine from cold, rest your hand on the gear lever and feel for a regular shake or hesitation that a healthy six simply does not have.
  2. Watch the engine warning light: it should light up with the key and go out once running.
  3. If it stays on, or comes on during your drive, the car needs diagnosis before you buy, and if it flashes, stop driving, because a flashing light means a misfire that is actively cooking the catalytic converter.
  4. On the test drive get it to around 2,000 rpm in a high gear and squeeze the accelerator gently, because a coil that is breaking down shows up as a shudder under load long before it shows at idle.
  5. Open the bonnet and look along the top of the engine at the six coils sitting on the plugs; cracked, chalky or oil-soaked coil bodies, or one coil that is obviously newer than the other five, tells you a story.
  6. Ask when the coils and spark plugs were last done and whether genuine or budget parts were used.

Where to look: Six individual coil packs sitting on the cam cover along the top of the inline-six, under a plastic engine cover on some models.

Parts involved: Ignition coil.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the coil packs and spark plugs last replaced, and with what brand?”
  • “Is the engine light on now, or has it been on recently?”
  • “Does it misfire when it is damp, or after the engine bay has been washed?”
  • “Has the catalytic converter ever been replaced?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior5

01Front lower control arm ball joint failure

Lift front of car and check for play in lower ball joint by grasping the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rocking firmly.petrol2002–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front lower control arm ball joints on the BA through FG Falcon platform are a known wear item with a documented failure rate on higher-mileage examples. Joint failure allows the wheel to change camber unpredictably and in severe cases the joint can separate, causing loss of steering control. A failed joint is a critical safety defect. The lower arm includes the ball joint as a replaceable component on most variants, making repair more affordable than whole-arm replacement.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or clunking from front suspension over bumps
  • Vibration through steering wheel over rough road
  • Uneven or rapid tyre wear on front axle
  • Vehicle pulling to one side

What to check

  1. Lift front of car and check for play in lower ball joint by grasping the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rocking firmly.
  2. Any vertical play indicates ball joint wear.
  3. Check ball joint boots for tearing and grease loss.
  4. Inspect both sides.

Where to look: Front suspension lower control arm, ball joint

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension been inspected recently?”
  • “Have the lower control arm ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Is there any knocking from the front end?”

02Floor pan and sill rust on high-mileage examples

Lift all carpet sections and inspect floor pan for rust, especially around the firewall base and under rear seat.petrol2002–2014Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $800–$5,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

High-mileage Falcon sedans and wagons, particularly those operated in higher-rainfall or coastal areas of NZ or AU, develop rust in the floor pan around the firewall base, under the rear seat, and along the inner sill sections. Water ingress through door seal degradation and blocked drain holes traps moisture in these areas. While the Falcon is not as rust-prone as Japanese vehicles of similar age, rust in structural sill sections can affect roadworthiness and WOF/RWC compliance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Visible surface rust or bubbling paint on sill panels
  • Soft spots or perforations in floor pan when pressed
  • Damp interior smell or wet carpets without obvious cause
  • Rust staining on inner sill seen through door aperture

What to check

  1. Lift all carpet sections and inspect floor pan for rust, especially around the firewall base and under rear seat.
  2. Check inner sill sections through the door aperture.
  3. Look under the car at sill seams and floor edges.
  4. Press on any suspect areas to check for perforation.

Where to look: Floor pan, inner sills, firewall base

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Where has the car spent most of its life – coastal or inland?”
  • “Has the car ever had wet carpets or a water leak?”
  • “Has any rust repair been performed?”

03Barra 4.0L Power Steering Rack Leak and Hose Failure

Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir level and condition — burnt or low fluid indicates a leak.petrol2008–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic power steering system on the Barra-powered FG/FGX Falcon uses high-pressure hoses that are routed close to the exhaust manifold, causing the outer rubber to harden and crack over time. The steering rack seals also deteriorate, resulting in power steering fluid weeping from the rack ends or returning hose unions. Low fluid from undetected leaks leads to pump cavitation noise and eventually pump failure, significantly increasing repair cost.

Symptoms to notice

  • Whining or groaning from the power steering pump at full lock or during slow manoeuvres
  • Power steering fluid drops on the ground under the front of the car after parking
  • Low or discoloured power steering fluid in the reservoir
  • Stiff or inconsistent steering assistance, particularly when cold
  • Burning smell from the engine bay as fluid contacts the exhaust

What to check

  1. Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir level and condition — burnt or low fluid indicates a leak.
  2. With the car idling, turn lock-to-lock slowly and listen for whining or growling from the pump.
  3. Inspect the underside of the engine bay and front crossmember for red/brown fluid deposits near the rack and hose unions.
  4. Check the high-pressure hose for cracks or swelling, particularly where it passes near the exhaust manifold.
  5. Look for wet patches on the ground beneath the front of the car after it has been parked.

Where to look: Power steering rack (underneath front of engine bay) and high-pressure hose routing along firewall

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering fluid level ever dropped or needed topping up, and was the source of any leak investigated?”
  • “Has the power steering rack or high-pressure hose been replaced?”
  • “Is there any whining noise from the steering when turning at low speed or on full lock?”

04IRS Rear Stub Axle / Hub Bearing Wear

Spin the wheel by hand and listen for grinding or rumbling from the bearing.petrol2008–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FG/FGX Falcon's independent rear suspension uses a stub axle that presses into the rear knuckle, retained by a large nut. The hub bearing integrated into the knuckle wears prematurely — particularly on higher-mileage cars or those used with sustained high rear loads — producing clunking, wheel wobble, and vague rear-end handling. The bearing failure can be rapid once noise begins, and a collapsed bearing can allow significant lateral wheel movement, causing a safety hazard.

Symptoms to notice

  • Droning or rumbling noise from rear that increases with vehicle speed
  • Noise changes tone or disappears when changing lanes (load shift off worn bearing)
  • Clunking from rear over bumps or during acceleration and braking
  • Detectable lateral play when wheel is grasped and rocked on a hoist
  • Rear tyre feathering or uneven wear pattern

What to check

Spin the wheel by hand and listen for grinding or rumbling from the bearing. During a test drive, listen for a droning noise that changes pitch with speed or when weight is transferred cornering. Check for uneven or feathered rear tyre wear caused by bearing-induced toe change. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, grasp each rear wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and attempt to rock it side-to-side; any detectable play indicates hub bearing wear.

Where to look: Rear suspension — both rear knuckles / hub carriers

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear hub bearings ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Has there been any clunking, droning, or unusual noise from the rear of the car?”
  • “Has any rear tyre wear been observed that is uneven across the tread face?”

05Rear Differential Carrier Bushing Wear (IRS)

petrol2008–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FG/FGX Falcon's independent rear suspension mounts the differential carrier to the subframe via large rubber bushings that deteriorate with age, heat cycling, and aggressive use. When the bushings degrade, the differential can shift under load, causing clunking on throttle application and lift-off, imprecise rear-end feel, and accelerated halfshaft CV joint wear from the resultant misalignment. Performance-oriented or high-mileage examples are most affected.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk or thud from rear on hard acceleration from rest
  • Clunk on lift-off or engine braking at low speed
  • Imprecise or vague rear-end feel during cornering
  • Vibration through floorpan under load, reducing at cruise
  • Accelerated CV joint wear or halfshaft vibration from differential misalignment

What to check

Have an assistant apply and release throttle in Drive while you observe differential movement — more than a few millimetres of shift indicates worn mounts. During a test drive, note any clunk or thump from the rear on hard throttle take-up from low speed. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, visually inspect the large front and rear differential mounting bushings for cracking, tearing, or visible separation of the rubber from the metal sleeve.

Where to look: Rear subframe — differential carrier front and rear mounting bushings

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear differential mounting bushings ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Is there any clunking or banging sound from the rear during hard acceleration or when lifting off the throttle?”
  • “Has the car been used for towing, track days, or performance driving that would accelerate bushing wear?”
Other Ford Fairmont engines and years1 documented issue that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling1

012.0L EcoBoost Wastegate Actuator Rattle

At idle with the bonnet open, listen for a metallic ticking or rattling from the turbocharger area on the passenger side.petrol2014–2016Engine
Very commonEngine $150–$600 to fix

Does not apply

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The 2.0L EcoBoost turbocharger fitted to the FGX EcoBoost Falcon uses a pneumatic wastegate actuator with a rod-end clip that develops free play over time due to thermal cycling and vibration. The loose actuator rod rattles against the wastegate arm at idle and under light throttle, producing a metallic tinkling or buzzing from the turbo. Ford issued TSB 14-0188 covering this failure on all 2.0L EcoBoost applications, prescribing a revised actuator clip or replacement actuator rod assembly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic ticking or rattling from turbo area at idle and light throttle
  • Sound dampens or disappears under full boost conditions
  • Rattle audible with bonnet open at 800–1500 RPM
  • Noise worsens progressively as clip wear increases

What to check

At idle with the bonnet open, listen for a metallic ticking or rattling from the turbocharger area on the passenger side. The sound is most obvious at 800–1200 RPM and may dampen under boost. Physically inspect the wastegate actuator rod clip for visible play — wiggle the rod end by hand to check for slop. Ask whether the TSB 14-0188 repair has been performed.

Where to look: Turbocharger wastegate actuator — passenger side of engine bay

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has Ford TSB 14-0188 for the wastegate actuator rattle been performed under warranty or since?”
  • “Has the turbo or boost system been inspected at any point?”
  • “Is there any rattling noise from the engine bay at idle that the seller can explain?”

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Ford Fairmont’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Ford models

Ford Fairmont buyer questions

Is the Ford Fairmont reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 24 documented faults for the Ford Fairmont, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and cooling. A Ford Fairmont with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Ford Fairmont?

We've catalogued 24 known faults for the Ford Fairmont, covering engine, transmission, and cooling. All 24 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Ford Fairmont?

Most single repairs on the Ford Fairmont fall between $600–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 24 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Ford Fairmont?

Yes. A Ford Fairmont inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.