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Ford1988–2017 Critical issues documented

Ford Falcon: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Ford Falcon (1988–2017) in New Zealand? We've documented 36 known faults for this model spanning engine, body & rust, transmission, and cooling. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

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  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
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  • NZ owned and operated

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No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

36

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$600–$1,800

Typical repair

40

Service milestones

Which Ford Falcon are you looking at?

7 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Ford Falcon

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Falcon came with 7, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Ford Falcon

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Ford Falcon before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect both radiator end tanks for hairline cracks, staining, or brittle discolouration.

    See why

    4.0L Inline-6 Radiator Plastic End-Tank Cracking (EA-EL)

    The EA through EL Falcon 4.0L inline-six uses a crimped aluminium-core radiator with injection-moulded plastic end tanks. The plastic becomes brittle with age and heat cycling, cracking at the crimp joint and failing to contain coolant. On any EA-EL Falcon retaining the original radiator, tank failure is a near certainty; collapse can be sudden rather than a gradual weep.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant loss without obvious external leak in early stages
    • Cracked or brittle plastic visible at top or bottom radiator tank
    • Rising temperature gauge
    • Steam from engine bay
    • Dried coolant residue or white staining around tank crimp joints

    Typically $300–$600 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    This is the single most expensive thing that goes wrong with a BA or early BF, and you can check it in two minutes before you even drive the car.

    See why

    Radiator's built-in transmission cooler lets coolant into the gearbox - 'the milkshake' (BA and BF before BF II)

    On BA and early BF automatics the transmission fluid is cooled by a heat exchanger built into the bottom tank of the radiator. When the wall between the two circuits corrodes, pressurised engine coolant is forced into the transmission and transmission fluid escapes into the coolant. The result is a pink-brown frothy mixture - hence the nickname - that destroys the clutch packs and valve body, often within a few hundred kilometres. It also leaves contamination sitting in the cooler lines, so a rebuilt gearbox is ruined again if the radiator and lines are not replaced and flushed at the same time. Ford moved to an external transmission cooler from BF II onwards, which is why the later cars do not do it. There was never a recall, so the whole bill falls on the owner. This is a different failure from the radiator simply cracking and losing coolant: here the two fluids mix internally and the gearbox is the thing that dies.

    What you would notice

    • Pink, brown or frothy 'strawberry milkshake' fluid on the transmission dipstick
    • Oily film or brown scum floating in the coolant expansion tank
    • Coolant level dropping with no external leak anywhere
    • Harsh, slipping or flaring gearchanges
    • Transmission warning or the car dropping into limp mode

    Typically $3,500–$8,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Get to the car before the seller has warmed it up, because a genuinely cold start tells you the most.

    See why

    Alloy cylinder head lifts its gasket on the 3.9/4.0 OHC six (EA-EL)

    The EA-to-EL six puts an aluminium cylinder head on a cast-iron block. The two metals expand at different rates and coolant flow through the head lets steam pockets form around the rear cylinders, so the gasket seal creeps and eventually lets go. It is famously not a high-kilometre failure: guides report it turning up on low-kilometre cars that have done years of short stop-start trips, and from around 80,000 km upwards on any of them. Once it goes, coolant gets into the cylinders or the oil, and a car driven on afterwards warps or cracks the alloy head so it has to be replaced rather than skimmed. Australian workshops long ago settled on the later AU metal (MLS) gasket with new torque-to-yield head bolts as the durable repair, so a car with that history is a better bet than an untouched original. Ford never ran a recall or a warranty extension for it.

    What you would notice

    • Thick white steam from the exhaust that keeps coming after the pipe is hot
    • Coolant level dropping with no puddle under the car
    • Creamy mayonnaise-coloured sludge under the oil filler cap
    • Steady bubbles or a rising level in the coolant expansion tank at idle
    • Heater blows cold at idle but hot when you rev it
    • Temperature gauge climbing in traffic

    Typically $1,800–$3,800 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check coolant level and inspect for white residue around the intake manifold.

    See why

    Barra 4.0 inline-6 plastic intake manifold crack causing coolant loss

    The Barra 4.0L inline-six used in BA, BF, and early FG Falcons has a plastic lower intake manifold prone to cracking at the coolant crossover passage and lower gasket face. This causes coolant loss, overheating, and potential hydrolocking if coolant enters cylinders via intake ports. The failure is well-documented across Australian workshops and is one of the most common Barra failures on high-mileage examples. Replacement manifolds (or upgraded alloy units) are readily available in the AU aftermarket.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant loss without visible external leak
    • White smoke from exhaust
    • Overheating, particularly at highway speeds
    • Coolant smell from engine bay
    • Milky oil on dipstick in severe cases

    Typically $600–$2,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Lift front of car and check for play in lower ball joint by grasping the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rocking firmly.

    See why

    Front lower control arm ball joint failure

    Front lower control arm ball joints on the BA through FG Falcon platform are a known wear item with a documented failure rate on higher-mileage examples. Joint failure allows the wheel to change camber unpredictably and in severe cases the joint can separate, causing loss of steering control. A failed joint is a critical safety defect. The lower arm includes the ball joint as a replaceable component on most variants, making repair more affordable than whole-arm replacement.

    What you would notice

    • Knocking or clunking from front suspension over bumps
    • Vibration through steering wheel over rough road
    • Uneven or rapid tyre wear on front axle
    • Vehicle pulling to one side

    Typically $350–$1,200 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Listen on cold start for chain rattle from the front and top of the engine.

    See why

    Boss 5.4 V8 secondary timing chain stretch and guide failure

    The 5.4L V8 Barra used in the GT and XR8 models (BF onwards) has a secondary timing chain between the two cam sprockets. These secondary chains and their plastic guides deteriorate over time and mileage. A stretched or broken guide allows the chain to jump, causing timing errors, rough running, and potential valve-to-piston contact on higher-revving examples. Failure often begins with rattling on cold start. Timing chain replacement is labour-intensive on the DOHC V8.

    What you would notice

    • Rattling or clattering noise from engine on cold start
    • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes
    • Rough running or hesitation at all engine speeds
    • Engine misfire that worsens under load

    Typically $2,500–$8,000 to put right.

Ford Falcon service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Ford Falcon. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

FG X Falcon · 2014–2016 · 4.0L Barra 195 I6 - Falcon/G6E

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Inspect suspension bushings, engine mounts, and differential fluid condition.

  2. 150,000 km

    Cooling system components like the water pump and radiator hoses should be monitored for perishing.

  3. 200,000 km

    Inspect the cooling system, specifically the radiator hoses and transmission oil cooler lines.

FG X Falcon · 2014–2016 · 4.0L Barra 270T I6 Turbo - XR6 Turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check suspension components like control arm bushes and ball joints to maintain that smooth, signature Falcon ride.

  2. 150,000 km

    Consider timing chain health and general ancillaries like the alternator and water pump for long-term reliability.

  3. 200,000 km

    Confirm the serpentine belt and cooling hoses have been inspected for perishing.

FG X Falcon · 2014–2016 · 5.0L Supercharged Boss 335 V8 - XR8

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Service the ZF transmission oil and filter if not done recently - key for long-term shifting health.

  2. 200,000 km

    Suspension components like control arm bushings and drop links may start feeling loose or noisy on bumpy roads.

FG Falcon · 2008–2011 · 4.0L Barra 195 I6 - XT/G6

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Inspect the suspension bushes and ball joints - these components work hard on NZ roads.

  2. 200,000 km

    Verify the ZF transmission fluid and filter service - key for drivetrain longevity.

FG Falcon · 2008–2010 · 5.4L Boss 290 V8 - XR8

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Inspect the timing chain tensioners and ancillary drive belts for hardening or wear.

  2. 200,000 km

    Assess the shock absorbers and suspension struts to maintain that classic Falcon ride quality.

  3. 250,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system, including the thermostat and housing.

FG Falcon · 2008–2011 · 4.0L Barra 270T I6 Turbo - XR6 Turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Inspect the turbo oil feed lines and confirm the intercooler piping is free of excessive oil buildup.

  2. 200,000 km

    Evaluate the suspension bushings and ball joints, likely contributors to the car's handling for many years.

  3. 250,000 km

    Evaluate suspension bushes and shock absorbers.

BF Falcon · 2005–2008 · 4.0L Barra 245T I6 Turbo - XR6 Turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Inspect the differential bushes and turbo oil feed line for clogging or seepage.

  2. 200,000 km

    Original suspension components like shocks and control arm bushings may show fatigue at this stage.

  3. 250,000 km

    Evaluate the cooling system components, like the radiator and hoses.

BF Falcon · 2005–2008 · 4.0L Barra 190 I6 - XT/Futura/Fairmont

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Inspect the transmission mount and suspension bushings for perishing.

  2. 200,000 km

    Watch the alternator and starter motor as they reach their natural service life.

  3. 250,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system, checking hoses and the thermostat housing.

BF Falcon · 2005–2008 · 5.4L Boss 260 V8 - XR8

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Review cooling system integrity, including hoses and the radiator.

  2. 200,000 km

    Proactively check the differential bushes and driveline components.

  3. 250,000 km

    A major service point - spark plug replacement plus a full transmission fluid flush.

BA Falcon · 2002–2005 · 4.0L Barra 182 I6 - XT/Futura/Fairmont

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Verify timing chain tensioner health and replace the serpentine belt and pulleys.

  2. 200,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system components, including the radiator and hoses, to prevent fatigue-related leaks.

  3. 250,000 km

    Flush the cooling system and inspect the plastic radiator tanks, which can become brittle over time.

BA Falcon · 2002–2005 · 4.0L Barra 240T I6 Turbo - XR6 Turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Suspension bushings, particularly the rear diff cradle mounts, may start showing perishing.

  2. 200,000 km

    The turbocharger seals might show minor seepage if the vehicle has been driven spiritedly.

  3. 250,000 km

    Evaluate the suspension struts and shock absorbers for oil leaking or lost damping efficiency.

BA Falcon · 2002–2005 · 5.4L Boss 260 V8 - XR8

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Check the cooling system hoses and radiator - plastic components can become brittle over time.

  2. 200,000 km

    Have the timing chain guides and tensioners professionally inspected for long-term peace of mind.

  3. 250,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system, including the thermostat and radiator hoses.

AU Series II Falcon · 2000–2002 · 5.0L Windsor V8 - XR8

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 200,000 km

    Check the alternator output and verify the fuel pump's health.

  2. 250,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system - hoses, radiator, thermostat - worth considering for reliability.

  3. 300,000 km

    Evaluate the cooling system hoses and water pump efficiency.

AU Series II Falcon · 2000–2002 · 4.0L Intech I6 - Standard/Grade/Futura/XR6

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 200,000 km

    Check the harmonic balancer and timing chain health.

  2. 250,000 km

    Inspect fuel system components and auxiliary drive belts.

  3. 300,000 km

    Confirm the transmission fluid has been serviced and check the differential oil.

See all 36 documented issuesEverything researched for the Ford Falcon, including 10 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Ford Falcon has — 36Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling24

01Boss 5.4 V8 secondary timing chain stretch and guide failure

Listen on cold start for chain rattle from the front and top of the engine.petrol2005–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $2,500–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 5.4L V8 Barra used in the GT and XR8 models (BF onwards) has a secondary timing chain between the two cam sprockets. These secondary chains and their plastic guides deteriorate over time and mileage. A stretched or broken guide allows the chain to jump, causing timing errors, rough running, and potential valve-to-piston contact on higher-revving examples. Failure often begins with rattling on cold start. Timing chain replacement is labour-intensive on the DOHC V8.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clattering noise from engine on cold start
  • Check engine light with camshaft timing codes
  • Rough running or hesitation at all engine speeds
  • Engine misfire that worsens under load

What to check

  1. Listen on cold start for chain rattle from the front and top of the engine.
  2. Scan for P0016/P0017 or cam correlation codes.
  3. Ask if the car has had any timing work done.
  4. High-mileage V8 Falcons should have documented chain inspection.

Where to look: Front of engine – secondary timing chain and upper plastic guides

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Has there ever been a rattling noise on cold start?”
  • “Are there any engine warning lights or fault codes present?”

02Radiator's built-in transmission cooler lets coolant into the gearbox - 'the milkshake' (BA and BF before BF II)

This is the single most expensive thing that goes wrong with a BA or early BF, and you can check it in two minutes before you even drive the car.petrol2002–2006Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Blocked factory turbo oil-feed filter kills the turbocharger (XR6 Turbo / F6 only, Barra 240T/270T/310T)

petrol2002–2016Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Alloy cylinder head lifts its gasket on the 3.9/4.0 OHC six (EA-EL)

Get to the car before the seller has warmed it up, because a genuinely cold start tells you the most.petrol1988–1998Engine
CommonEngine $1,800–$3,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The EA-to-EL six puts an aluminium cylinder head on a cast-iron block. The two metals expand at different rates and coolant flow through the head lets steam pockets form around the rear cylinders, so the gasket seal creeps and eventually lets go. It is famously not a high-kilometre failure: guides report it turning up on low-kilometre cars that have done years of short stop-start trips, and from around 80,000 km upwards on any of them. Once it goes, coolant gets into the cylinders or the oil, and a car driven on afterwards warps or cracks the alloy head so it has to be replaced rather than skimmed. Australian workshops long ago settled on the later AU metal (MLS) gasket with new torque-to-yield head bolts as the durable repair, so a car with that history is a better bet than an untouched original. Ford never ran a recall or a warranty extension for it.

A removed six-cylinder diesel engine cylinder head on cardboard, valve-gear side facing up.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A six-cylinder diesel head off the engine, valve-gear side up. Cracks run between the valve seats on the face beneath.

Ll1324 · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Thick white steam from the exhaust that keeps coming after the pipe is hot
  • Coolant level dropping with no puddle under the car
  • Creamy mayonnaise-coloured sludge under the oil filler cap
  • Steady bubbles or a rising level in the coolant expansion tank at idle
  • Heater blows cold at idle but hot when you rev it
  • Temperature gauge climbing in traffic

What to check

Get to the car before the seller has warmed it up, because a genuinely cold start tells you the most. With the engine cold, look into the coolant expansion tank with your phone torch: clean coloured coolant is fine, brown rusty coolant or an oily film on top is not. Twist off the oil filler cap and look at the underside for creamy mayonnaise-coloured sludge. Start it and stand at the exhaust for the first minute or two: a thick white cloud that is still there once the pipe is hot, with a sweet smell, is coolant being burnt. Leave it idling and look down the neck of the expansion tank for a steady stream of bubbles. On the test drive sit in traffic and watch the temperature gauge, and turn the heater to hot - a heater that only blows warm once you rev means air is being pushed into the system. Ask whether the head has ever been off, and ask to see the invoice, because a car already fitted with the AU metal gasket and new head bolts is worth more than one that has never been touched. If a workshop inspection is possible: have your mechanic do a combustion-gas (block) test on the coolant and check the head face for straightness.

Where to look: Cylinder head and head gasket along the top of the inline-six; the evidence shows at the exhaust tailpipe, in the coolant expansion tank and under the oil filler cap.

Parts involved: Cylinder head.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the cylinder head ever been off this car, and do you have the invoice?”
  • “Was the later AU metal head gasket and a new set of head bolts used?”
  • “How often do you have to top up the coolant?”
  • “Has it ever overheated or boiled?”

05Barra 4.0L Hydraulic Timing Chain Tensioner Failure

The Barra 4.0L I6 uses a hydraulic primary timing chain tensioner that is oil-pressure dependent.petrol2008–2016Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,200–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Barra 4.0L I6 uses a hydraulic primary timing chain tensioner that is oil-pressure dependent. The one-way check valve inside the tensioner can fail, allowing the tensioner to bleed down when the engine is off and the chain to go slack on restart. High-mileage engines also see wear in the timing chain itself and the plastic chain guides, compounding the slack. A failed tensioner left unrepaired risks catastrophic timing chain jump or snap.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud chain slap noise on cold start, deeper and more rhythmic than VCT phaser rattle
  • Rattle or slap sound from front of engine that does not fully disappear on warm-up
  • Engine hesitation or misfire if chain has jumped a tooth
  • Check engine light with misfire or cam correlation codes after chain jump

What to check

On a fully cold start, listen for a loud chain slap (deeper and more rhythmic than phaser rattle) from the front of the engine that persists for more than 3–4 seconds. Check for any history of tensioner or chain replacement. Look for oil sludge on the dipstick which accelerates guide wear. Any example above 200,000 km should be considered high-risk without documented tensioner service.

Where to look: Front of engine behind timing cover, driver side

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or tensioner ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any record of oil sludge or extended oil change intervals that could accelerate guide wear?”
  • “Has the engine ever made a chain-slap noise on cold start?”

06Barra 4.0 inline-6 plastic intake manifold crack causing coolant loss

Check coolant level and inspect for white residue around the intake manifold.petrol2002–2014Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

074.0L Inline-6 Radiator Plastic End-Tank Cracking (EA-EL)

Inspect both radiator end tanks for hairline cracks, staining, or brittle discolouration.petrol1988–1998Cooling
Very commonCooling $300–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The EA through EL Falcon 4.0L inline-six uses a crimped aluminium-core radiator with injection-moulded plastic end tanks. The plastic becomes brittle with age and heat cycling, cracking at the crimp joint and failing to contain coolant. On any EA-EL Falcon retaining the original radiator, tank failure is a near certainty; collapse can be sudden rather than a gradual weep.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss without obvious external leak in early stages
  • Cracked or brittle plastic visible at top or bottom radiator tank
  • Rising temperature gauge
  • Steam from engine bay
  • Dried coolant residue or white staining around tank crimp joints

What to check

  1. Inspect both radiator end tanks for hairline cracks, staining, or brittle discolouration.
  2. Squeeze tanks gently when cool to detect flexing at cracks.
  3. Check coolant level and condition in reservoir.
  4. Look for coolant staining on nearby hoses and fan shroud.

Where to look: Engine bay front, radiator upper and lower end tanks at the crimp joint to aluminium core

Parts involved: Radiator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the radiator been replaced since new?”
  • “Any coolant loss or overheating incidents?”
  • “When was coolant last replaced or inspected?”

08Boss 5.4 Oil Consumption and Piston Ring Wear

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2008–2016Engine
CommonEngine $3,850–$7,700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

High-mileage Boss 5.4 engines exhibit elevated oil consumption, typically above 1L per 3,000 km. Piston ring land wear and valve stem seal degradation are the primary causes. Blue smoke on overrun or hard acceleration is the visible symptom. This leads to fouled spark plugs, increased fuel consumption, and catalyst contamination. While ring replacement requires a full engine rebuild, valve stem seal replacement can be performed with the head in situ using a compressed-air hold technique.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue or white smoke from exhaust
  • Fault codes or irregular readings when scanned

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Catalytic converter.

09ZF 6HP26 six-speed auto — 'lifetime fluid' myth, valve body and mechatronic faults (FG/FG X)

Test drive from cold through to fully warm — ZF faults often only appear warm.2008–2016Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10Barra 4.0T Head Gasket Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2002–2017Engine
CommonEngine $2,450–$4,900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The factory composite head gasket on the Barra turbo is unable to reliably contain combustion pressure under sustained boost, particularly at factory boost levels above 8 psi. Failure modes include coolant ingestion into cylinders, coolant loss with no external leak, and white exhaust smoke. The aluminium head is susceptible to warping if the engine is run hot. Standard repair requires head removal, resurfacing or replacement, and fitment of an aftermarket multi-layer steel (MLS) gasket with ARP head studs. Turbo models with the stock single-layer gasket are at elevated risk, especially on BA and BF variants where the factory cooling capacity is marginal.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue or white smoke from exhaust
  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Head gasket.

11Boss 5.4 DOHC Cam Phaser Rattle and Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2008–2016Engine
CommonEngine $2,240–$4,480 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 5.4L DOHC Boss V8 uses variable cam timing phasers (VCT) on both intake and exhaust camshafts. Phaser vanes wear and the locking pins fail to seat under low oil pressure or at low RPM. The characteristic symptom is a loud metallic rattle from the front of the engine at idle or cold start, which may clear as oil pressure builds. Worn phasers can cause retarded cam timing, misfires, and rough running. Replacement of the phaser assemblies and associated VCT solenoids is required. This fault is closely linked to oil change interval compliance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle or knock from engine
  • Engine misfire or rough idle
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup
  • Low oil pressure warning light

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

12ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission Solenoid Wear (FG/FGX)

During test drive, check all upshifts for smoothness from rest and at highway speed.petrol2008–2016Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,200–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ZF 6HP26 six-speed automatic fitted to FG and FGX Falcon is robust but the electro-hydraulic solenoids controlling gear selection wear and clog at high mileage when fluid is not serviced. ZF specifies lifetime fluid but this is not appropriate for Australian and NZ operating conditions; neglected fluid degrades and deposits varnish on solenoid bores, causing shift hesitation, harsh engagement, and fault codes. Solenoid replacement or valve body rebuild is the usual repair.

Symptoms to notice

  • Delayed or harsh 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts
  • Transmission warning light on instrument cluster
  • Hesitation or stumble pulling away from a stop
  • Transmission hunting between gears at cruise
  • P0750-P0770 range solenoid circuit fault codes

What to check

  1. During test drive, check all upshifts for smoothness from rest and at highway speed.
  2. Scan transmission module for stored or active solenoid codes.
  3. Check ZF fluid level and condition — ZF fluid should be pink or red; dark brown or burnt-smelling fluid indicates the transmission has been neglected.

Where to look: Automatic transmission valve body, solenoid pack assembly accessible via transmission sump removal

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the ZF transmission fluid ever been changed, and at what mileage?”
  • “Any hesitation, harsh shifts, or transmission warning lights?”
  • “Has the transmission been inspected or serviced for shift quality issues?”

13Broken valve springs — misfire and dropped cylinder (FG 4.0 Barra 195)

Listen for any steady miss at idle and watch for a flashing check-engine light on the drive.petrol2008–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,200–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

FG Falcons with the Barra 195 six-cylinder have a documented run of valve spring failures: a spring cracks or breaks, causing a persistent misfire on one cylinder, and in bad cases a dropped valve damaging the head or piston. Many workshops replace the full set of springs preventatively when one goes. It affected enough cars that upgraded aftermarket spring kits are a standard fix in the Falcon community.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden constant misfire on one cylinder
  • Rough idle and loss of power with check-engine light
  • Ticking noise from the top of the engine

What to check

  1. Listen for any steady miss at idle and watch for a flashing check-engine light on the drive.
  2. Ask whether valve springs have ever been replaced — a receipt for a full set of springs is a plus, not a minus, on an FG.

Where to look: Cylinder head, under the cam cover — top of the engine

Ask the seller

  • “Have the valve springs ever been replaced (one or the full set)?”
  • “Has it ever suddenly developed a misfire?”

145-Speed Automatic Torque Converter Lock-Up Shudder (BA/BF)

On the test drive, cruise at 80-100km/h on a smooth road with light constant throttle.petrol1998–2008Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

15Barra 4.0L NA Timing Chain Guide Wear

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.petrol2002–2017Engine
CommonEngine $1,680–$3,360 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The naturally aspirated Barra I6 shares the same plastic timing chain guide design as the turbo variant. Guide wear and tensioner degradation produce a cold-start rattle that worsens over time. The AU-series Barra (pre-2002) used an earlier guide profile that is more prone to early cracking. Failure of a guide at high mileage can cause chain jump and bent valves. Inspection and replacement of the full timing chain kit is recommended at or before 200,000 km.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle or knock from engine
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup
  • Difficult cold start or unstable idle

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Timing chain.

16BTR 4-Speed Automatic Valve Body and Servo Failure

Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).petrol1988–2008Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,260–$2,520 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The BTR M93LE 4-speed automatic used in AU and early BA Falcons develops worn valve body bores and failing servo pistons over time. Symptoms include harsh or delayed 2-3 upshifts, converter shudder, and slipping under load. The servo bore for the 2nd gear band can wear oval, preventing the band from applying with full force. A valve body recondition or replacement resolves most shift quality issues; worn servo bores require a full rebuild. Fluid and filter service at the correct interval (every 40,000 km) significantly extends service life.

Symptoms to notice

  • Transmission slipping between gears
  • Harsh or delayed gear changes
  • Transmission fluid leak

What to check

  1. Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).
  2. Test shift quality through all gears.
  3. Look for slipping, delay or harsh engagement.

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

17Barra 4.0L VCT Cam Phaser Rattle on Cold Start

petrol2008–2016Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

18Boss 5.0L V8 Oil Consumption via PCV System

Check the engine oil level cold after a known mileage interval — ask the seller how much oil has been added between services.petrol2008–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $400–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Boss 5.0L V8 in the FG GT/GT-P Falcon has a documented tendency toward elevated oil consumption driven by a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system that routes oil vapour back through the intake manifold. Over time the PCV hoses and baffle become oil-saturated and can allow liquid oil to be ingested, accelerating combustion chamber deposits and spark plug fouling. Affected engines consume 1 litre per 2,000–3,000 km and may exhibit blue smoke at start-up.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil consumption of 1 litre or more per 2,000–3,000 km without external leaks
  • Blue smoke from exhaust on cold start, clearing once warm
  • Oily residue visible inside air intake duct or on throttle body butterfly
  • Spark plugs fouled with oil deposits or excessive carbon
  • Rough idle or misfire at cold start from oil-contaminated plugs

What to check

  1. Check the engine oil level cold after a known mileage interval — ask the seller how much oil has been added between services.
  2. Inspect the air intake duct and throttle body for oily residue.
  3. Start the engine cold and look for blue-tinged smoke from the exhaust for the first 30 seconds.
  4. Pull spark plugs and inspect for oil fouling or carbon deposits.
  5. Inspect PCV hose connections at the cam covers for swelling or oil weeping.

Where to look: Engine valley / intake manifold — PCV hose routing from cam covers to intake

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator.

Ask the seller

  • “How much oil does the engine consume between services, and does the owner top it up between changes?”
  • “Has blue smoke been noticed at start-up, particularly when the car has been sitting overnight?”
  • “Has the PCV system or intake manifold been inspected or cleaned?”

19Single-point 'central fire' throttle-body injection playing up (EA to EB I, 3.2 and 3.9)

EA through EB I Falcons used a single injector unit sitting in the throttle body rather than one injector per cylinder.petrol1988–1993Engine
CommonEngine $300–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

EA through EB I Falcons used a single injector unit sitting in the throttle body rather than one injector per cylinder. Buyer's guides are blunt that the system was unreliable, and the fault is the electrical contacts inside the throttle body going high-resistance or intermittent, so the car hunts at idle, stumbles off the line, floods, or simply stops. Ford dropped it at EB II when the multi-point 4.0 became standard, which is exactly why an EB II or later is the easier car to own. Parts for the single-point setup are now scarce and few workshops have seen one, so on these cars diagnosis time is usually the bigger half of the bill.

Symptoms to notice

  • Idle that hunts up and down or dies as the engine warms
  • Stumble or flat spot as you pull away from a standstill
  • Long cranking or refusing to restart when hot
  • Smell of raw fuel at idle
  • Occasional cut-out that clears after the car has sat for a while

What to check

Insist the car is stone cold when you arrive, then start it and let it idle for five minutes without touching the throttle - an idle that hunts up and down, or that sags as it warms, points straight at the throttle body unit. Blip the throttle a few times and listen for a stumble or a flat spot before it picks up. Drive it, stop for ten or fifteen minutes, then restart it hot; long cranking or a flooded fuel smell is the classic symptom. Check the badge and the papers to work out whether it is an EB II or later car, because those use multi-point injection on the 4.0 and none of this applies to them. Ask what has already been replaced and whether anyone has fitted a later multi-point setup. If a workshop inspection is possible: have an auto electrician check the injector and throttle-body wiring for corroded terminals.

Where to look: Throttle body sitting on top of the inline-six inlet manifold, with the single injector and its electrical contacts inside it.

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Is this an EB II or later car with multi-point injection, or an earlier single-point one?”
  • “Has the throttle body or its injector ever been replaced?”
  • “Does it ever refuse to restart when it is hot?”
  • “Who services it, and have they worked on this injection system before?”

204.0L Turbo Wastegate Actuator Failure (FG/FGX)

Locate the wastegate actuator on the turbocharger and check the actuator rod for freedom of movement by hand.petrol2008–2016Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

21Water Pump Bearing and Seal Failure

Inspect coolant colour and level.petrolCooling
CommonCooling $455–$910 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The OEM water pump on the Barra NA I6 uses a pressed-steel impeller and a bearing that is susceptible to wear from coolant contamination. Seal failure allows coolant to weep from the pump snout weep hole, which is a pre-failure indicator. Bearing failure produces a rumble or squeal from the front of the engine and can allow the pump to wobble, damaging the timing cover seal. Complete replacement is required. The pump is driven by the serpentine belt on Barra NA engines and is accessible without major disassembly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay
  • Timing chain or belt related noise at startup

What to check

  1. Inspect coolant colour and level.
  2. Check for white exhaust smoke or sweet smell indicating coolant in combustion.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Pressure test the system.

Parts involved: Water pump.

224.0L Inline-6 Plastic Intake Manifold Cracking (AU Series)

With engine running at idle, listen for hissing from the intake manifold area.petrol1998–2003Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

23Plastic Thermostat Housing Cracking

Inspect coolant colour and level.petrolCooling
CommonCooling $266–$532 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

AU and early BA Barra 4.0L NA engines use a plastic thermostat housing bolted to the aluminium engine block. Thermal cycling causes the housing to crack at the coolant outlet neck or the bolt boss, causing coolant loss. The crack is often on the underside and not immediately visible. Coolant loss is gradual initially, then sudden when the crack propagates. The fix is replacement with either an updated plastic housing or an aftermarket aluminium unit. Water pump failure commonly accompanies housing failure on high-mileage units.

An annotated photograph of an automotive engine thermostat identifying the wax capsule and both disc valves.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A double-valve engine thermostat, labelled: the wax capsule is what sticks.

Dougsim · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay
  • Fault codes or irregular readings when scanned

What to check

  1. Inspect coolant colour and level.
  2. Check for white exhaust smoke or sweet smell indicating coolant in combustion.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Pressure test the system.

Parts involved: Thermostat.

242.0L EcoBoost Wastegate Actuator Rattle

At idle with the bonnet open, listen for a metallic ticking or rattling from the turbocharger area on the passenger side.petrol2014–2016Engine
Very commonEngine $150–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The 2.0L EcoBoost turbocharger fitted to the FGX EcoBoost Falcon uses a pneumatic wastegate actuator with a rod-end clip that develops free play over time due to thermal cycling and vibration. The loose actuator rod rattles against the wastegate arm at idle and under light throttle, producing a metallic tinkling or buzzing from the turbo. Ford issued TSB 14-0188 covering this failure on all 2.0L EcoBoost applications, prescribing a revised actuator clip or replacement actuator rod assembly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic ticking or rattling from turbo area at idle and light throttle
  • Sound dampens or disappears under full boost conditions
  • Rattle audible with bonnet open at 800–1500 RPM
  • Noise worsens progressively as clip wear increases

What to check

At idle with the bonnet open, listen for a metallic ticking or rattling from the turbocharger area on the passenger side. The sound is most obvious at 800–1200 RPM and may dampen under boost. Physically inspect the wastegate actuator rod clip for visible play — wiggle the rod end by hand to check for slop. Ask whether the TSB 14-0188 repair has been performed.

Where to look: Turbocharger wastegate actuator — passenger side of engine bay

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has Ford TSB 14-0188 for the wastegate actuator rattle been performed under warranty or since?”
  • “Has the turbo or boost system been inspected at any point?”
  • “Is there any rattling noise from the engine bay at idle that the seller can explain?”
Electrical4

01PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Failure

Scan ECU for stored and pending fault codes.petrolElectrical
CommonElectrical $840–$1,680 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

BA and BF Falcon PCMs are prone to internal solder joint cracking and MOSFET failure due to thermal cycling and the PCM's location in the engine bay on some variants. Faults manifest as intermittent no-start, stalling, loss of injector pulse, and fault codes that cannot be cleared. A failed PCM will not communicate with a scan tool. The unit is not serviceable by the owner and requires either a new unit (programmed to the vehicle) or a specialist remanufactured unit. PIN/immobiliser data must be transferred or re-coded on replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Difficult starting or battery drain
  • Fault codes stored in ECU

What to check

  1. Scan ECU for stored and pending fault codes.
  2. Test all electronic functions.
  3. Check battery voltage and alternator output.

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

02Barra six coil-pack breakdown causing a cylinder misfire (BA to FG X)

Start the engine from cold, rest your hand on the gear lever and feel for a regular shake or hesitation that a healthy six simply does not have.petrol2002–2005Electrical
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Ignition switch connector recall, stalling (FG II Falcon built Nov 2013 to Oct 2014)

Ask for paperwork showing recall PRA 2015/14560 was done, or phone a Ford dealer with the VIN.2013–2014Electrical
CommonElectrical $0–$300 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Every FG II Falcon built from 12 November 2013 to 13 October 2014, whatever the engine, was recalled because the ignition switch plug can come loose. If it does while driving, the engine stalls, the electrics go dead and the car cannot be restarted. Ford fixes it free under recall PRA 2015/14560.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine cuts out while driving
  • Dash and electrics go dead
  • Car will not restart until the plug is reseated

What to check

Ask for paperwork showing recall PRA 2015/14560 was done, or phone a Ford dealer with the VIN. On the test drive, the engine should never cut out, and the dash should not flicker or go dead when you go over bumps or touch the key. If a workshop inspection is possible: a Ford dealer can check the ignition switch connector is the updated, locked type.

Where to look: Behind the ignition barrel on the steering column

Ask the seller

  • “Has the ignition switch recall been done?”
  • “Has the car ever cut out or died while driving?”

04Interior Command Centre (ICC) head unit dies and is VIN-locked to the car

The ICC is the combined stereo, trip computer and display unit in the middle of the dash on BA, BF and FG Falcons.2002–2014Electrical
CommonElectrical $250–$850 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ICC is the combined stereo, trip computer and display unit in the middle of the dash on BA, BF and FG Falcons. Australian electronics repairers list it as a standard known failure: the unit goes completely dead with no display, no sound and no button response, or it powers up showing CODE, very often straight after a flat battery or a jump start. The sting is that the unit is coded to the car's VIN, so a second-hand one out of a wrecker will not simply plug in and work - it has to be programmed to that specific car, and the cheap fix a buyer expects is not available. The CD mechanism also jams and refuses to eject. On its own it is an annoyance rather than a danger, but a dead ICC on a car for sale is often a clue that the battery and charging system have been neglected.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blank screen with no sound and no response from any button
  • Display showing CODE or asking for a code
  • Screen or backlight working intermittently - dead one day, fine the next
  • CD stuck inside and refusing to eject
  • Clock, trip computer and radio all dead together

What to check

  1. Turn the key to accessory before you start the car and watch the centre screen wake up: it should light evenly, show the clock and respond to the volume and menu buttons.
  2. Press every button on the panel, including CD eject and the display or menu button, and check the backlight is not half dead.
  3. Ask the seller to leave the car sitting untouched for a few minutes, then look at the screen again, because the fault is often intermittent and a warmed-up unit can hide it.
  4. If the screen shows CODE, the unit has been out of the car or the battery has been disconnected, and it needs programming to this car's VIN rather than a code you can look up.
  5. Ask whether this is the original head unit for this car, and whether the battery has been flat or the car jump started recently.

Where to look: Centre of the dashboard - the combined screen, stereo and trip computer unit above the climate controls.

Ask the seller

  • “Is this the original head unit that came with the car?”
  • “Has the screen ever gone blank or shown CODE?”
  • “Has the battery been flat, or the car jump started, recently?”
  • “Does the CD player still eject?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior7

01Structural rust in the lower A-pillars, inner sills and door hinge pillars (EA-EL)

EA-to-EL Falcons rust in a known set of places, and two of them are structural.1988–1998Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $1,500–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

EA-to-EL Falcons rust in a known set of places, and two of them are structural. The lower A-pillar where the windscreen pillar meets the sill, and the inner and outer sills themselves, are the ones that end the car: buyer's guides describe rust in those two areas as often not worth fixing because of the complexity of the repair. The door hinge pillars rust where they join the body, a problem the guides trace right back to the EA. Cosmetic-to-serious spots are the rear window and windscreen surrounds, the lower edge of the boot lid, the rear wheel-arch lips, the 'dogleg' at the bottom rear corner of the rear door opening (worst on wagons) and the battery tray. Boot seals leak, so the boot floor, spare wheel well and rear light housings corrode from the inside. In New Zealand, structural rust in the sills or pillars is a Warrant of Fitness fail and needs a certified repair that routinely costs more than the car is worth.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling or blistering paint at the bottom of the windscreen pillars
  • Flaky brown metal along the bottom edge of the boot lid
  • A rust lip curling out of the rear wheel arches
  • Damp or musty boot carpet and water sitting in the spare wheel well
  • Doors that have dropped and need lifting to close
  • Fresh thick underseal or lumpy seam sealer along the sills

What to check

  1. Open both front doors and look hard at the point where the windscreen pillar meets the sill, right around the door hinges - bubbling paint or flaky brown metal there is the expensive one and it is the reason to walk away.
  2. Run your fingers along the inside and the outside of the sill under the door rubbers and press firmly as you go; sound metal feels solid, rotten metal gives or crunches.
  3. Shine your phone torch into the dogleg, the bottom rear corner of the rear door opening, which is the worst spot on wagons.
  4. Lift the boot carpet and the spare wheel cover and look for standing water, damp underlay and rust rings around the rear light housings, then check the lower lip of the boot lid and the battery tray in the engine bay.
  5. Look along the rear window and windscreen rubbers for paint lifting away from the glass.
  6. Treat thick fresh underseal or lumpy seam sealer along the sills as suspicious - it usually hides a repair rather than preventing one.
  7. Ask whether the car has had any welding done and when it last passed a Warrant of Fitness.
  8. If a workshop inspection is possible: have a workshop put it on a hoist and check the sill, floor and rear rail seams from underneath before you buy.

Where to look: Lower A-pillar where it meets the sill and the door hinges, inner and outer sills, rear door dogleg, rear wheel-arch lips, boot lid lower edge, boot floor and spare wheel well, battery tray, and the windscreen and rear window surrounds.

Parts involved: Chassis and structural rust.

Ask the seller

  • “Has this car ever had rust cut out and welded, and who did it?”
  • “When did it last pass a Warrant of Fitness, and were there any rust advisories?”
  • “Does the boot get damp after rain?”
  • “Has the windscreen or rear window ever been out?”

02Front lower control arm ball joint failure

Lift front of car and check for play in lower ball joint by grasping the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rocking firmly.petrol2002–2014Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front lower control arm ball joints on the BA through FG Falcon platform are a known wear item with a documented failure rate on higher-mileage examples. Joint failure allows the wheel to change camber unpredictably and in severe cases the joint can separate, causing loss of steering control. A failed joint is a critical safety defect. The lower arm includes the ball joint as a replaceable component on most variants, making repair more affordable than whole-arm replacement.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or clunking from front suspension over bumps
  • Vibration through steering wheel over rough road
  • Uneven or rapid tyre wear on front axle
  • Vehicle pulling to one side

What to check

  1. Lift front of car and check for play in lower ball joint by grasping the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and rocking firmly.
  2. Any vertical play indicates ball joint wear.
  3. Check ball joint boots for tearing and grease loss.
  4. Inspect both sides.

Where to look: Front suspension lower control arm, ball joint

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension been inspected recently?”
  • “Have the lower control arm ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Is there any knocking from the front end?”

03Floor pan and sill rust on high-mileage examples

Lift all carpet sections and inspect floor pan for rust, especially around the firewall base and under rear seat.petrol2002–2014Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $800–$5,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

High-mileage Falcon sedans and wagons, particularly those operated in higher-rainfall or coastal areas of NZ or AU, develop rust in the floor pan around the firewall base, under the rear seat, and along the inner sill sections. Water ingress through door seal degradation and blocked drain holes traps moisture in these areas. While the Falcon is not as rust-prone as Japanese vehicles of similar age, rust in structural sill sections can affect roadworthiness and WOF/RWC compliance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Visible surface rust or bubbling paint on sill panels
  • Soft spots or perforations in floor pan when pressed
  • Damp interior smell or wet carpets without obvious cause
  • Rust staining on inner sill seen through door aperture

What to check

  1. Lift all carpet sections and inspect floor pan for rust, especially around the firewall base and under rear seat.
  2. Check inner sill sections through the door aperture.
  3. Look under the car at sill seams and floor edges.
  4. Press on any suspect areas to check for perforation.

Where to look: Floor pan, inner sills, firewall base

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Where has the car spent most of its life – coastal or inland?”
  • “Has the car ever had wet carpets or a water leak?”
  • “Has any rust repair been performed?”

04Barra 4.0L Power Steering Rack Leak and Hose Failure

Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir level and condition — burnt or low fluid indicates a leak.petrol2008–2016Suspension
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05IRS Rear Stub Axle / Hub Bearing Wear

Spin the wheel by hand and listen for grinding or rumbling from the bearing.petrol2008–2016Suspension
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Rear Differential Carrier Bushing Wear (IRS)

petrol2008–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The FG/FGX Falcon's independent rear suspension mounts the differential carrier to the subframe via large rubber bushings that deteriorate with age, heat cycling, and aggressive use. When the bushings degrade, the differential can shift under load, causing clunking on throttle application and lift-off, imprecise rear-end feel, and accelerated halfshaft CV joint wear from the resultant misalignment. Performance-oriented or high-mileage examples are most affected.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk or thud from rear on hard acceleration from rest
  • Clunk on lift-off or engine braking at low speed
  • Imprecise or vague rear-end feel during cornering
  • Vibration through floorpan under load, reducing at cruise
  • Accelerated CV joint wear or halfshaft vibration from differential misalignment

What to check

Have an assistant apply and release throttle in Drive while you observe differential movement — more than a few millimetres of shift indicates worn mounts. During a test drive, note any clunk or thump from the rear on hard throttle take-up from low speed. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, visually inspect the large front and rear differential mounting bushings for cracking, tearing, or visible separation of the rubber from the metal sleeve.

Where to look: Rear subframe — differential carrier front and rear mounting bushings

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear differential mounting bushings ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “Is there any clunking or banging sound from the rear during hard acceleration or when lifting off the throttle?”
  • “Has the car been used for towing, track days, or performance driving that would accelerate bushing wear?”

07Rear differential mount bush wear — driveline clunk (BA through FG X)

2002–2016Suspension
Very commonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

All BA/BF/FG/FG X Falcons (and the related Territory) wear out the three rear diff mounting bushes, causing a distinct clunk or bang when taking off, selecting reverse, or lifting off the throttle. The diff flexes in worn bushes and knocks metal-on-metal. It is cheap enough to fix with aftermarket Nolathane/SuperPro bushes but recurs roughly every 100,000 km unless a greaseable bush kit is fitted. Not dangerous in itself, but a loud clunking rear end is a strong bargaining chip.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk or bang from the rear when taking off or engaging reverse
  • Knock when lifting off the throttle at speed
  • Shudder through the floor on take-off

What to check

On the test drive, from a stop, ease onto the throttle then lift off, and shift park-reverse-drive with your foot on the brake — listen and feel for a rear clunk. Under the rear of the car, look at the rubber bushes where the diff hangs from the subframe for cracking or oval-worn holes.

Where to look: Rear differential mounting bushes, under the rear of the car where the diff meets the subframe

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the diff bushes ever been replaced, and with rubber or polyurethane?”
  • “Does it clunk when you select reverse or take off?”
Fluid leaks1

01EcoLPi LPG tank missing its fuel-module O-ring seal - gas leak recall (FG II EcoLPi only)

This applies only to the EcoLPi liquid-injection LPG cars, not to petrol or E-Gas Falcons.petrol2011–2013Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $0–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

This applies only to the EcoLPi liquid-injection LPG cars, not to petrol or E-Gas Falcons. Ford recalled 3,256 FG II Falcon EcoLPi sedans and utes because an O-ring seal between the LPG tank's fuel delivery module and the wiring connector insert could be missing from the factory. Without it, LPG can escape from the tank, and Ford issued the recall as a fire risk. Affected sedans were built between 4 August 2011 and 18 July 2012, and utes between 15 September 2011 and 18 July 2012. The repair is free at a Ford dealer and it does not expire, but Falcon production ended in 2016 and these cars have changed hands many times, so plenty were never presented. A New Zealand car may well be a private Australian import that never received the recall letter at all.

Symptoms to notice

  • Smell of gas around the boot or the rear of the car, strongest after filling
  • LPG gauge falling while the car is parked
  • Getting noticeably fewer kilometres per tank with no change in driving
  • Gas smell inside the boot with the lid shut

What to check

  1. First work out whether this is actually an EcoLPi car: there is an EcoLPi badge on the boot lid, an LPG filler point, and a large gas tank sitting where the spare wheel would be.
  2. Leave the car parked for a while, then open the boot and put your nose in - LPG has a strong stink deliberately added to it and you will smell a leak.
  3. Ask the seller straight out whether the LPG tank recall has been carried out and ask to see the paperwork; a Ford dealer will check the VIN against outstanding recalls for free, and that phone call is worth making before you hand over money.
  4. Check the build date on the compliance plate in the door opening against the recall window: sedans built 4 August 2011 to 18 July 2012, utes 15 September 2011 to 18 July 2012.
  5. Ask when the LPG tank was last certified, because gas tanks carry an expiry date in New Zealand and re-certification or replacement is a real cost on top of the purchase price.

Where to look: LPG tank in the boot floor, at the fuel delivery module and its wiring connector on top of the tank.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EcoLPi LPG tank recall been carried out on this car?”
  • “Was this car imported from Australia, and if so did it ever go back for recall work?”
  • “When does the LPG tank certification expire?”
  • “Do you ever smell gas in the boot?”

Ford Falcon faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

Compare the Ford Falcon

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Ford Falcon’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Buying guides that cover the Ford Falcon

Other Ford models

Ford Falcon buyer questions

Is the Ford Falcon reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 36 documented faults for the Ford Falcon, the recurring problem areas are engine, body & rust, and transmission. A Ford Falcon with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Ford Falcon?

We've catalogued 36 known faults for the Ford Falcon, covering engine, body & rust, and transmission. All 36 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Ford Falcon?

Most single repairs on the Ford Falcon fall between $600–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 36 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Ford Falcon?

Yes. A Ford Falcon inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.