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Ford2002–2022 Critical issues documented

Ford Focus: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Ford Focus (2002–2022) in New Zealand? We've documented 37 known faults for this model spanning engine, cooling, body & rust, and transmission. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Ford Focus

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

37

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$500–$2,500

Typical repair

33

Service milestones

Which Ford Focus are you looking at?

10 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Ford Focus

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Focus came with 6, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Ford Focus

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Ford Focus before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Perform a combustion gas (block) test on the coolant reservoir with engine warm and running.

    See why

    1.0 EcoBoost M1DA cylinder head crack & coolant loss

    The M1DA (and early M2DA) three-cylinder cylinder head develops cracks adjacent to the EGR port coolant gallery, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber or exhaust tract. Ford issued an extended warranty program and recalls in multiple markets after widespread failures. Coolant loss is often gradual and symptom-free until the engine overheats catastrophically. A combustion gas (CO2) test on the coolant reservoir is the definitive pre-purchase check. Repair requires cylinder head replacement; reground or welded heads often re-crack at the same location.

    What you would notice

    • White or sweet-smelling steam from exhaust under load
    • Coolant level dropping with no visible external leak
    • Overheating warning light or high temperature gauge
    • Milky or caramel-coloured residue on oil filler cap
    • Bubbling in coolant reservoir at idle

    Typically $3,500–$8,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Do multiple gentle standing starts, a hill start, and low-speed creep in traffic — shudder on take-off is the signature.

    See why

    PowerShift DPS6 dry dual-clutch — shudder, slipping and repeat failures (AU class action)

    The LW/LZ Focus's 6-speed PowerShift auto is the same dry dual-clutch that plagued the Fiesta: chronic shudder, lurching, clutch pack and seal failures, and transmission control module deaths, often recurring after repair. It drove the Capic v Ford class action in Australia and the ACCC's $10 million penalty against Ford Australia. Extended warranty programs are long expired. A specialist inspection or a manual car are the only safe plays here.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder/vibration on take-off like a slipping clutch
    • Banging or lurching between low gears
    • Hesitation then lunge when accelerating from a roll
    • Transmission overheat warnings or limp mode

    Typically $1,500–$5,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check full service history for timing belt and tensioner replacement dates and mileage.

    See why

    1.0 EcoBoost timing belt tensioner bearing failure

    The 1.0 EcoBoost three-cylinder engine uses a rubber timing belt running in an oil bath (wet belt-in-oil system) rather than a conventional dry belt or chain. The hydraulic tensioner pulley bearing is known to fail prematurely — sometimes well before the recommended service interval — causing belt slack, timing jump, or complete belt failure. A jumped belt causes immediate piston-to-valve contact and destroys the engine. Early belt tensioner designs were revised by Ford as a running production change, but many pre-revision engines remain in service. Cold-start rattling is an early warning sign of tensioner or belt wear.

    What you would notice

    • Rattling or chirping noise from engine front cover on cold start, clearing after warm-up
    • Rough running or cylinder misfires without other cause
    • Check engine light with camshaft or crankshaft correlation codes (P0016/P0017)
    • Sudden engine stall or catastrophic loss of power with no prior warning (belt failure)

    Typically $800–$9,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Cold start it yourself and watch the exhaust: persistent white smoke after the first minute is the symptom, not brief condensation steam.

    See why

    Head gasket failure from wrong factory gasket - coolant loss and white smoke (Focus RS, 2.3 EcoBoost)

    Mk3 Focus RS models built between August 2015 and July 2017 left the factory with a 2.3 Mustang head gasket that does not suit the RS cylinder head - it has an extra hole and a coolant path that lets coolant stagnate, damaging the head. The result is coolant consumption, white exhaust smoke and eventually misfires. Ford ran a free repair program replacing the gasket and, where needed, the cylinder head itself, regardless of warranty - but that program required the car to be presented, and imported or later-sold cars may never have had it. Out of program, this is a head-off job with possible head replacement.

    What you would notice

    • White exhaust smoke, especially at start-up
    • Coolant level drops with no external leak
    • Misfire or rough running once the damage progresses

    Typically $3,500–$8,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect the rear undercarriage with a torch from below, focusing on the twist beam mounting brackets at their body weld points.

    See why

    Rear beam axle mounting bracket corrosion

    The Mk3 Focus twist beam rear axle mounts to the body via pressed steel brackets that are prone to surface and deep corrosion, particularly on NZ examples exposed to coastal salt air or the high annual rainfall of Auckland and Northland. The bracket welds and surrounding body metal can corrode to the point of structural compromise. In severe cases the bracket separates partially from the body, affecting axle location geometry and creating a safety risk under hard cornering or emergency braking. The underside factory underseal on UK/EU-sourced imports (the majority of NZ used stock) is applied thinly in this area.

    What you would notice

    • Visible rust or bubbling paint at inner rear wheel arches
    • Clunking or knocking from rear suspension over bumps
    • Loose or vague rear-end feel during cornering
    • Visible corrosion on trailing arms or axle beam visible from underneath

    Typically $1,200–$5,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Cold-start the engine and immediately listen for chain rattle from the front timing cover.

    See why

    Zetec 2.0 timing chain and tensioner wear

    The 2.0L Zetec petrol engine in LR–LV Focus models uses a simplex timing chain with a hydraulic tensioner that loses pressure with age and neglected oil changes. Chain wear produces a rattling noise on cold start and, if left unaddressed, can result in the chain skipping teeth causing bent valves. This is consistent with the documented Duratec chain failure pattern and is widely reported on Focus-specific forums from 100,000 km onward.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattling from the front of the engine on cold start
    • Check engine light with camshaft correlation or position codes
    • Rough idle after extended cold-start rattle
    • Misfires at idle

    Typically $1,500–$3,000 to put right.

Ford Focus service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Ford Focus. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Focus Mk4 (Facelift) · 2022–2026 · 2.3L EcoBoost - ST performance hatchback

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Inspect suspension components, specifically the front lower control arm bushes.

  2. 100,000 km

    Check accessory belts and high-pressure fuel pump health.

  3. 120,000 km

    Service the transmission fluid if the vehicle is used for heavy stop-start commuting.

Focus Mk4 · 2019–2022 · 1.5L EcoBoost - Trend/Titanium

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Peripheral engine components like the water pump should be inspected during routine servicing.

  2. 100,000 km

    Review auxiliary drive belts and tensioners to prevent unexpected snapping.

  3. 120,000 km

    Flush the cooling system and inspect the original hoses.

Focus Mk3 (Facelift) · 2016–2018 · 2.0L EcoBoost - RS AWD high-performance model

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Suspension bushings and shock absorbers might start feeling their age; check here to maintain that sharp RS handling.

Focus Mk3 (Facelift) · 2015–2018 · 1.5L EcoBoost - Titanium/Sport hatch

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Review the cooling system hoses and coolant bypass valve function.

  2. 100,000 km

    Suspension bushings and engine mounts may benefit from a professional inspection.

  3. 120,000 km

    Evaluate the suspension bushings and ball joints.

Focus Mk3 · 2012–2015 · 2.0L GTDi - ST EcoBoost hot hatch

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the clutch assembly's condition if driving history includes heavy urban traffic.

  2. 120,000 km

    Check the suspension components, particularly the rear control arm bushings, to maintain that sharp handling feel.

  3. 150,000 km

    Service the PTU and rear drive unit fluids as part of a full drivetrain service.

Focus Mk3 · 2011–2015 · 2.0L GDi - Trend/Sport base model

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the engine mounts - idle vibration often becomes more noticeable as these parts near end of life.

  2. 150,000 km

    Review the cooling system, including coolant hoses and the radiator, to maintain optimal engine temperatures.

  3. 200,000 km

    Suspension bushings and engine mounts are worth a thorough visual inspection.

Focus Mk2 (Facelift) · 2008–2011 · 2.0L Duratorq TDCi - Trend/Sport diesel efficiency

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Check the DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) and clutch assembly for idle vibration.

  2. 250,000 km

    Confirm the transmission fluid has been addressed and inspect the suspension components for play.

Focus Mk2 (Facelift) · 2006–2010 · 2.5L Duratec ST - High-performance 5-cylinder turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the turbocharger's health and verify the condition of the drive shafts.

  2. 150,000 km

    Previous cooling system component refreshes become crucial for long-term reliability at this milestone.

  3. 200,000 km

    Confirm the alternator's condition and the health of the suspension bushings.

Focus Mk2 · 2005–2008 · 1.6L Duratec Ti-VCT - LX/Zetec trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the service history on the timing belt - this significant item needs addressing.

  2. 150,000 km

    Suspension components like shock absorbers and mounts often show natural wear by this stage.

  3. 200,000 km

    Confirm the suspension components have been inspected for natural wear.

Focus Mk2 · 2005–2008 · 2.0L Duratec HE - Ghia/Titanium luxury trim

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Assess the engine mounts - key to the smooth, vibration-free idle the Duratec engine is known for.

  2. 200,000 km

    Check fuel pump operation and overall fuel system health for long-term reliability.

  3. 250,000 km

    Inspect the cooling system hoses and consider accessory drive belt replacement.

Focus Mk1 (Facelift) · 2002–2004 · 2.0L Zetec-E - Ghia/ST170 performance model

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Check the cooling system hoses and radiator health thoroughly.

  2. 200,000 km

    General engine seals and ancillary belts are worth a friendly professional assessment.

  3. 250,000 km

    Replace the cam belt - critical for the long-term health of the Zetec engine.

Focus Mk1 (Facelift) · 2000–2004 · 1.6L Zetec-SE - CL/LX/Zetec

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Flush the cooling system and check the radiator for sediment buildup.

  2. 200,000 km

    Inspect the alternator and starter motor connections for corrosion or slow cranking.

  3. 250,000 km

    Have the fuel filter and vacuum lines inspected so the turbo maintains boost efficiently.

See all 37 documented issuesEverything researched for the Ford Focus, including 12 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Ford Focus has — 37Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling25

01Internal coolant loss - head gasket erosion or cracked head (Focus ST 2.0 EcoBoost)

The Mk3 Focus ST's 2.0 EcoBoost can consume coolant internally.petrol2012–2018Engine
OccasionalEngine $4,000–$12,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk3 Focus ST's 2.0 EcoBoost can consume coolant internally. Ford's service message SSM 47462 covers 2015-2018 Focus (and other 2.0 EcoBoost models) with coolant consumption, white smoke and rough running, and tells technicians to look for erosion and pitting between the cylinder bores on the head and block. UK specialists also report cracks inside the head's water jacket around the exhaust port, which show as white smoke through the turbo and cannot be repaired. Heavily tuned cars are at higher risk. Left alone it leads to overheating, hydrolocking or a failed engine.

A removed six-cylinder diesel engine cylinder head on cardboard, valve-gear side facing up.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A six-cylinder diesel head off the engine, valve-gear side up. Cracks run between the valve seats on the face beneath.

Ll1324 · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant level falling with no external leak
  • White smoke from the exhaust, especially on cold start or after boost
  • Rough running or misfire on cold start
  • Sweet coolant smell from the exhaust
  • Overheating on a hard drive

What to check

  1. View the car cold.
  2. Check the coolant expansion tank level and colour before starting, and look for signs it has just been topped up.
  3. Start it yourself and watch the exhaust for persistent white smoke that does not clear within a couple of minutes, and listen for a misfire.
  4. On the test drive use some boost, then look in the mirror for a white cloud when you lift off, and keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
  5. Ask whether the car has been remapped: a tuned ST with no supporting records is higher risk.
  6. Ask for coolant top-up history.
  7. If a workshop inspection is possible: an extended cooling system pressure test and a combustion gas test on the coolant will show internal loss; a borescope through the plug holes shows steam-cleaned pistons.

Where to look: Engine bay: cylinder head and head gasket between the bores, coolant expansion tank, turbo on the exhaust side

Parts involved: Cylinder head, Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been remapped or modified, and by whom?”
  • “Do you ever need to top up the coolant?”
  • “Has the head or head gasket ever been replaced?”
  • “Has it ever overheated?”

02Coolant loss into cylinders or cracked head (1.5 EcoBoost M8DA/M9DA and 1.6 EcoBoost)

The four-cylinder 1.6 EcoBoost (found in UK-import Mk3s) and the 1.5 EcoBoost that replaced it in the LZ facelift can lose coolant internally.petrol2011–2015Cooling
OccasionalCooling $3,500–$11,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The four-cylinder 1.6 EcoBoost (found in UK-import Mk3s) and the 1.5 EcoBoost that replaced it in the LZ facelift can lose coolant internally. On the 1.6, running low on coolant lets the head overheat locally and crack, leaking oil onto the turbo and exhaust; Ford UK recalled 2010-2015 Focus, Kuga and C-Max 1.6 EcoBoost in January 2018 to fit a coolant level sensor and warning. On the 1.5, coolant seeps into the cylinders, giving white smoke and misfires; Ford's service message SSM 48106 for the same engine in the Fusion/Mondeo calls for a new short block when a pressure test and borescope confirm it, and the US class action Miller v Ford (2025) covers these engines. Ignored, either version ends in a destroyed engine or an underbonnet fire.

A removed six-cylinder diesel engine cylinder head on cardboard, valve-gear side facing up.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A six-cylinder diesel head off the engine, valve-gear side up. Cracks run between the valve seats on the face beneath.

Ll1324 · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant level keeps dropping with no drip under the car
  • White, sweet-smelling exhaust smoke after a cold start
  • Misfire or rough idle on a cold start that then clears
  • Temperature gauge rising or a low-coolant warning
  • Burning oil smell from the turbo side of the engine

What to check

  1. Ask to see the car cold and check the coolant expansion tank before it is started: the level should sit between MIN and MAX and the coolant should be clean, not brown or oily.
  2. A freshly topped-up tank or a bottle of coolant in the boot suggests an ongoing loss.
  3. Start it yourself and watch the exhaust for the first few minutes: thin steam that clears is normal, persistent white smoke with a sweet smell is not.
  4. Note any rough running on cold start.
  5. After the test drive, torch the turbo and exhaust side of the engine for oil wetness and sniff for burning oil.
  6. Ask for records of coolant top-ups and, on a 1.6, whether the coolant level sensor recall has been done.
  7. If a workshop inspection is possible: a cooling system pressure test held for several hours, a combustion gas (block) test on the coolant and a borescope through the spark plug holes will confirm coolant intrusion.

Where to look: Engine bay: coolant expansion tank, cylinder head and turbocharger on the exhaust side of the engine

Parts involved: Cylinder head.

Ask the seller

  • “How often do you have to top up the coolant?”
  • “Has the engine ever overheated or shown a low-coolant warning?”
  • “Has the head, head gasket or short block ever been replaced?”
  • “If this is a 1.6 EcoBoost, has the coolant level sensor recall been done?”

031.5 EcoBoost coolant loss and coolant intrusion into cylinders (Mk3.5)

Check the expansion tank level cold and look for signs of frequent topping up.petrol2015–2018Cooling
OccasionalCooling $4,000–$10,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1.5 EcoBoost in facelifted Mk3 Focuses shares the EcoBoost family's coolant-intrusion weakness: coolant seeps past the head gasket into the cylinders, starting as slow unexplained loss and ending in misfires, bore corrosion and engine replacement. It is covered by the same US class action as the 1.6/2.0 versions. Slow coolant loss on one of these is never 'just a top-up' — walk away or price in an engine.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant disappearing with no visible leak
  • White exhaust smoke on cold start
  • Single-cylinder misfire codes
  • Sweet coolant smell from the exhaust

What to check

Check the expansion tank level cold and look for signs of frequent topping up. Cold-start the car and watch the exhaust for persistent white smoke. Commission a cooling-system pressure test or leak-down test before purchase.

Where to look: Head gasket/block deck inside the engine; evidence at coolant tank and tailpipe

Parts involved: Head gasket, Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Does it use coolant between services?”
  • “Has a pressure or leak-down test been done?”
  • “Has the head gasket or engine ever been replaced?”

04Cracked cylinder liners - cold misfire and coolant loss (XR5 Turbo / ST225, B5254T3)

Insist on a stone-cold start - feel the bonnet before the viewing; a pre-warmed engine on an XR5 is a red flag in itself.petrol2006–2011Engine
OccasionalEngine $5,000–$10,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2.5 turbo five-cylinder uses press-fitted steel liners in an open-deck block, and liners can crack - rare on a standard engine, markedly more likely on cars tuned past about 240 kW, run with aggressive aftermarket maps, or driven with unresolved coolant leaks. Symptoms are a misfire when cold, unexplained coolant loss, white smoke and rough running on start-up. Specialists report pre-April-2008 engines as the most affected, though it has been seen across all years. A cracked liner means an engine rebuild or replacement, so on a modified XR5 this is the single most expensive risk on the car.

Symptoms to notice

  • Misfire for the first minute from cold that clears when warm
  • Coolant level drops with no visible leak
  • White exhaust smoke and rough cold start

What to check

  1. Insist on a stone-cold start - feel the bonnet before the viewing; a pre-warmed engine on an XR5 is a red flag in itself.
  2. Listen for misfiring or lumpy running in the first minute and watch the exhaust for white smoke that is more than normal condensation steam.
  3. Check the coolant expansion tank level and ask how often it needs topping up.
  4. Ask directly whether the car is remapped and to what power - be sceptical of 'just a tune'.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: a cooling-system pressure test and a combustion-gas (block) test of the coolant will catch a cracked liner before you buy, and on this specific car that test is worth paying for.

Where to look: Inside the engine block - cylinder liners of the 2.5-litre five-cylinder

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Is the engine standard or tuned? What power is it running?”
  • “Does it use coolant? When was the cooling system last pressure-tested?”
  • “Any history of cold-start misfires?”

051.0 EcoBoost timing belt tensioner bearing failure

Check full service history for timing belt and tensioner replacement dates and mileage.petrol2011–2018Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

061.0 EcoBoost M1DA cylinder head crack & coolant loss

Perform a combustion gas (block) test on the coolant reservoir with engine warm and running.petrol2012–2013Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07Head gasket failure from wrong factory gasket - coolant loss and white smoke (Focus RS, 2.3 EcoBoost)

Cold start it yourself and watch the exhaust: persistent white smoke after the first minute is the symptom, not brief condensation steam.petrol2016–2017Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

081.8 TDCi Duratorq timing belt and tensioner failure on interference engine

Request full service history and verify the timing belt replacement date and mileage.diesel2004–2011Engine
OccasionalEngine $600–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The 1.8L Duratorq TDCi diesel in Focus LT and LV models uses a rubber timing belt on an interference engine — belt failure causes piston-to-valve contact and total engine destruction with no warning. The tensioner pulley is a documented failure point and can seize without warning if not replaced on schedule. Ford's official interval is 10 years or 125,000 km, but NZ independent mechanics recommend 100,000 km or 8 years given the interference design and the cost of engine failure.

Symptoms to notice

  • No warning symptoms before failure — engine stops abruptly
  • Hard start or no-start following tensioner seizure
  • Engine will not turn over freely after belt snap
  • Confirmed bent valves and scored pistons on teardown

What to check

  1. Request full service history and verify the timing belt replacement date and mileage.
  2. Confirm whether the tensioner pulley and water pump were also replaced.
  3. If no records exist, budget for immediate belt and tensioner replacement before driving.

Where to look: Front of engine, behind the timing belt cover on the auxiliary belt side

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced and at what mileage?”
  • “Was the tensioner and idler pulley replaced at the same time?”
  • “Do you have a receipt for the timing belt service?”

09PowerShift DPS6 dry dual-clutch — shudder, slipping and repeat failures (AU class action)

Do multiple gentle standing starts, a hill start, and low-speed creep in traffic — shudder on take-off is the signature.petrol2011–2016Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10Zetec 2.0 timing chain and tensioner wear

Cold-start the engine and immediately listen for chain rattle from the front timing cover.petrol2002–2011Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

11Front driveshaft (halfshaft) fracture recall - loss of drive (LW built May 2013 - Jan 2014)

Check the build date on the compliance plate or door-pillar sticker: May 2013 to January 2014 builds are in scope.2013–2014Transmission
RareTransmission $450–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Ford Australia recalled 4,277 Focus built between 21 May 2013 and 24 January 2014 (PRA 2015/14925, September 2015) because the front halfshaft wall thickness may be below specification and the shaft can snap, most likely when pulling away from rest. A broken shaft means a bang from the front, total loss of drive, loss of the auto park function and possible damage to nearby components. The fix is free at a Ford dealer, but a car that has changed hands or was imported may never have had it done.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud bang or clunk from the front when pulling away
  • Engine revs but the car does not move
  • Clicking or knocking from the front when accelerating
  • Car rolls when parked in P on an automatic

What to check

Check the build date on the compliance plate or door-pillar sticker: May 2013 to January 2014 builds are in scope. Run the VIN through Ford's online recall checker on your phone at the viewing and ask for the dealer invoice showing new halfshafts. On the test drive pull away firmly from a standstill a few times, including on a slope, and listen for clunks or clicks from the front. If a workshop inspection is possible: a technician can confirm the halfshaft part numbers against the recall and check the CV joints and boots on a hoist.

Where to look: Front axle: the driveshafts running from the gearbox to each front wheel

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front halfshaft recall been done, and do you have the paperwork?”
  • “Has the car ever lost drive or made a bang when pulling away?”

12PowerShift DPS6 shudder & slip under light throttle

Test drive in stop-start traffic; apply very light throttle pulling away from rest and note any shudder or slip.petrol2011–2018Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

138-speed SelectShift torque converter judder at cruise

Road test at steady cruise on a smooth highway at 80-100 km/h under very light throttle.2018 onwardTransmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

148-speed automatic (8F24) harsh shifting, clunks and software faults (Mk4)

Drive in stop-start traffic and feel low-gear shift quality both cold and warm.petrol2018–2022Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

15Manual clutch overheating recall - cracked pressure plate and gearbox oil leak (LZ built Jun 2015 - Jun 2016)

Check the build date and run the VIN on Ford's recall checker at the viewing, and ask for the dealer invoice for campaign 18S07.petrol2015–2016Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,200–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Ford recalled manual-gearbox Focus built between 17 June 2015 and 16 June 2016 (campaign 18S07, Australian PRA 2018/16755, 2,836 cars; the US version covered the 1.0 EcoBoost with the B6 six-speed). Prolonged clutch slip can overheat the clutch so the pressure plate cracks or breaks, damaging the gearbox casing and letting gearbox oil leak onto hot parts, which is a fire risk. The remedy is software that detects and stops extended clutch slip, plus a new clutch where needed. Cars that missed the recall, or have been driven hard with a slipping clutch, may already have damage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clutch slipping: revs rise without the car speeding up
  • Burning clutch smell after hill starts or traffic
  • Oil drips under the gearbox
  • Judder or vibration when taking up drive
  • Grinding or rattle from the bellhousing

What to check

Check the build date and run the VIN on Ford's recall checker at the viewing, and ask for the dealer invoice for campaign 18S07. On the test drive do a hill start and a firm pull in third gear at low revs: the revs should not climb faster than the road speed. Sniff for a hot clutch smell after the drive. Look under the front of the car with your phone torch for fresh oil drips below the gearbox. Ask when the clutch was last replaced. If a workshop inspection is possible: a hoist inspection of the bellhousing and gearbox casing for leaks or cracks, and a check that the recall software is loaded.

Where to look: Between the engine and the manual gearbox (bellhousing), front of the car

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch recall (18S07) been done?”
  • “Has the clutch ever been replaced, and when?”
  • “Has the car ever smelled of burning clutch or leaked gearbox oil?”

162.0 TDCi dual-mass flywheel wear and DPF blockage (Mk2 diesel)

Idle the car and press/release the clutch listening for a rattle that comes and goes.diesel2005–2011Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,500–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk2 TDCi diesels wear their dual-mass flywheels — rattling at idle and shuddering take-offs — and a DMF plus clutch is a big job. The same cars, when used mostly around town, block their diesel particulate filters because regeneration never completes, leading to limp mode and forced regens or replacement. A short-tripped urban TDCi combines both bills; these engines want open-road use.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle at idle that changes when you press the clutch
  • Judder pulling away
  • DPF warning light, limp mode, or frequent active regens (fan running after shutdown, raised idle)
  • Diesel smell from repeated failed regens

What to check

  1. Idle the car and press/release the clutch listening for a rattle that comes and goes.
  2. Do a full-throttle take-off and feel for judder.
  3. Ask what driving the car does (urban vs open road), whether the DPF has ever been cleaned, replaced or — a red flag — removed.

Where to look: DMF between engine and gearbox; DPF in the exhaust under the floor

Parts involved: Clutch, Diesel particulate filter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch or dual-mass flywheel been replaced?”
  • “Has the DPF ever blocked or been replaced/removed?”
  • “What sort of trips does the car mostly do?”

171.5 EcoBoost R2DC cylinder deactivation P0302 misfire

Scan ECU for P0302 or cylinder deactivation system fault codes.petrol2018 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

18Oil pump wet belt ageing - belt-in-oil service item often skipped (1.5 EcoBoost three-cylinder, Mk4)

petrol2018–2022Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,200–$2,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk4's 1.5 EcoBoost three-cylinder drives its camshafts by chain, but the oil pump is driven by a belt running inside the engine oil - a 'wet belt'. Ford's stated replacement is 10 years or 150,000 miles (about 240,000 km), and as these belts age or when oil changes are stretched, the belt sheds rubber that can restrict the oil pickup and drop oil pressure - the same failure family that made the 1.0 EcoBoost wet belt notorious, though the 1.5's record is better so far. The job is labour-heavy because the belt lives inside the engine. Early 2018 cars are now approaching the age where this item is due, and almost no seller has budgeted for it.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low oil pressure warning, especially at hot idle
  • Rattly or laboured running with powertrain warning light
  • No record of the wet belt ever being replaced on an older/high-km car

What to check

This is a service-history check first: look through the invoices for 'oil pump belt' or 'wet belt' replacement and for consistent oil changes with the correct Ford-spec oil - stretched intervals are what kill these belts. At the car, check the oil level and condition on the dipstick; sludgy or very black oil is a bad sign on this engine. Start it cold and listen for rattles; watch that the oil pressure warning goes out immediately and never flickers at hot idle after the test drive. Budget the belt job into your offer on any car near 8-10 years old without proof it was done. If a workshop inspection is possible: cutting open the old oil filter to look for rubber debris is the cheap early-warning test.

Where to look: Oil pump drive belt inside the engine, behind the timing cover at the sump end

Ask the seller

  • “Has the oil pump wet belt been replaced? At what mileage?”
  • “Can you show every oil change in the service history?”

19PowerShift DPS6 transmission control module failure - sudden loss of drive or no-start

Start the car several times during the viewing, not once - cold at arrival, again after the test drive.petrol2011–2016Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

20Canister purge valve sticking — stalling and collapsed fuel tank (2.0 GDI)

Remove the fuel filler cap and listen — a strong sucking hiss suggests tank vacuum.petrol2012–2018Engine
OccasionalEngine $250–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On 2.0 direct-injection petrol Focuses, the evaporative-emissions purge valve can stick open so the engine constantly sucks vacuum through the fuel tank. The result is stalling, hard starts, erratic fuel gauge readings — and in advanced cases the vacuum physically crushes the fuel tank inward. Ford recalled these in North America (18S32) to update software and replace damaged valves/tanks; NZ-new and import cars may never have been done, and a deformed tank is an expensive surprise.

Symptoms to notice

  • Stalling shortly after fuel fill-ups
  • Loud whoosh of inrushing air when removing the fuel cap
  • Erratic fuel gauge or inability to fill the tank fully
  • Check-engine light with EVAP codes

What to check

  1. Remove the fuel filler cap and listen — a strong sucking hiss suggests tank vacuum.
  2. Check that the indicated tank capacity matches spec when filling.
  3. Ask whether the purge valve recall/software update has been done and scan for EVAP fault codes.

Where to look: Purge valve on the engine near the intake; fuel tank under the rear seat/floor

Ask the seller

  • “Has the purge valve been replaced or the recall software applied?”
  • “Does the car ever stall after refuelling?”
  • “Has the fuel tank ever been replaced?”

21Coolant leaks - thermostat housing gasket, turbo lines and radiator end tank (XR5 Turbo / ST225)

petrol2006–2011Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

22PCV breather diaphragm rupture - whistle, oil use and seal damage (XR5 Turbo / ST225, B5254T3)

Start the engine and listen: a rising whistle with revs, from the engine rather than the intake, is the classic sign.petrol2006–2011Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

23Electronic throttle body failure - 'Engine Malfunction' warning and limp mode (Mk2)

petrol2005–2011Engine
OccasionalEngine $400–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The electronic throttle body on Mk2 petrol Focuses fails intermittently: the dash shows an engine malfunction warning, power drops to limp-home mode, and the engine may vibrate or idle badly. Switching the car off for five minutes often resets it, which is exactly how it gets hidden at sale time - the fault is intermittent by nature. The fix is a replacement throttle body. It is well documented on Australian cars and on UK owner forums with codes such as P2100/P2104-series throttle faults.

Symptoms to notice

  • 'Engine Malfunction' message with sudden loss of power
  • Limp mode that clears after switching off for a few minutes
  • Rough idle or engine vibration with check-engine light

What to check

  1. Take a proper test drive of at least 15-20 minutes including some open-road running - this fault is intermittent and a five-minute putter around the block proves nothing.
  2. Watch for any momentary warning message or hesitation on throttle.
  3. From cold, listen for a clean, steady idle.
  4. Ask the seller outright whether the car has ever gone into limp mode; a reset that 'fixed itself' is this fault.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: read stored and pending codes - historic throttle-body codes (P2100-P2111 range) stay logged even after the symptom clears.

Where to look: Throttle body on the engine intake, top of the engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever shown an Engine Malfunction warning or lost power?”
  • “Has the throttle body ever been replaced?”

24Coil pack / ignition coil failure — misfires (Mk1 and Mk2 petrols)

Cold-start it and listen for an even idle; accelerate hard up a hill and watch for hesitation or a flashing engine light.petrol2002–2011Engine
CommonEngine $150–$450 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Across Mk1 (coil pack and leads) and Mk2 (coil-on-plug) petrol Focuses, ignition coil failure is the most common cause of misfires, hesitation and a flashing engine light — worst in wet weather. Cheap to fix, but sustained misfiring wrecks the catalytic converter, turning a $200 problem into a $1,500 one. Any rough-running petrol Focus of this era should be assumed to need ignition parts first.

A four-cylinder ignition coil rail removed from an engine, beside a steel rule for scale.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A coil-on-plug ignition rail, removed. One coil per cylinder.

Cschirp · CC BY-SA 3.0 de · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Misfire or shudder under load
  • Flashing check-engine light
  • Rough idle in damp conditions
  • Loss of power and poor economy

What to check

Cold-start it and listen for an even idle; accelerate hard up a hill and watch for hesitation or a flashing engine light. Ask when plugs, leads (Mk1) or coils (Mk2) were last replaced.

Where to look: Coil pack with HT leads (Mk1) or individual coils on top of the engine (Mk2)

Parts involved: Ignition coil.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the ignition system last serviced?”
  • “Has the engine light ever flashed while driving?”

25Idle control valve gumming — stalling and erratic idle (Mk1 Zetec)

Let the car idle for five minutes after the test drive with the air-con on and watch the tachometer for hunting or stalling.petrol2002–2005Engine
CommonEngine $150–$350 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk1 Focus's idle air control valve gums up with age, causing hunting idle, stalling at junctions and hard starts when warm. It is a cheap clean-or-replace job, but it makes the car feel far sicker than it is — and sellers often let it go rather than diagnose it. A stalling Mk1 Focus is more often a $200 fix than a dying engine, but confirm before you pay for it either way.

Symptoms to notice

  • Idle surging up and down when warm
  • Stalling when coming to a stop or when the air-con kicks in
  • Hard restarts when hot

What to check

Let the car idle for five minutes after the test drive with the air-con on and watch the tachometer for hunting or stalling. Ask whether the idle control valve or throttle body has been cleaned or replaced.

Where to look: Idle air control valve on the intake manifold/throttle body, top rear of the engine

Ask the seller

  • “Does it ever stall at idle or in traffic?”
  • “Has the idle control valve been cleaned or replaced?”
Electrical4

01Electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPAS) pump failure (Mk2)

With the engine idling, turn lock-to-lock several times listening for whine or groan and feeling for consistent assistance.2005–2011Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $900–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk2 Focus uses an electrically driven hydraulic steering pump that fails with age — steering suddenly goes heavy, sometimes intermittently at first. The pump is dear, and low fluid or the wrong fluid accelerates the failure. Intermittent heavy steering is genuinely dangerous mid-corner, so treat any assistance dropout as a must-fix, not a quirk.

Symptoms to notice

  • Steering suddenly heavy, then normal again
  • Whining from the front passenger side (pump location)
  • Power steering warning light or message

What to check

With the engine idling, turn lock-to-lock several times listening for whine or groan and feeling for consistent assistance. Do a figure-eight in a car park. Check the EHPAS reservoir level and fluid colour, and ask whether the pump has ever been replaced.

Where to look: EHPAS pump and reservoir low down behind the front bumper/passenger-side inner guard

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the steering ever gone heavy while driving?”
  • “Has the EHPAS pump or fluid been replaced?”

02Engine wiring loom chafing on transmission stud - stall risk, twice-recalled (Mk4)

Run the VIN through Ford's recall checker at the viewing and ask for paperwork showing BOTH wiring loom campaigns (19S50 and 20S74) are closed out.2018–2019Electrical
RareElectrical $0–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On Mk4 Focuses built September 2018 to May 2019, a transmission stud can chafe through the engine wiring loom. Damage shows as an engine warning light, reduced power, or the engine cutting out entirely. Ford Australia recalled it in September 2020 (campaign 19S50, PRA 2020/18538) and then had to recall the same cars again in May 2021 (20S74, PRA 2021/18939) - a repeat campaign, which tells you the first fix did not always hold. On a used example the questions are whether both campaigns were done and whether the loom already carries repair tape from a previous chafe.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine warning light with intermittent electrical faults
  • Sudden reduced power or stall
  • Faults that come and go with engine movement/load

What to check

Run the VIN through Ford's recall checker at the viewing and ask for paperwork showing BOTH wiring loom campaigns (19S50 and 20S74) are closed out. On the test drive, load the driveline - brisk acceleration, engine braking - and watch for any flicker of warning lights. With the bonnet open and engine idling, listen for electrical relay clicking or misfires as the engine rocks. If a workshop inspection is possible: inspect the loom routing near the transmission studs for chafe marks or repair tape.

Where to look: Engine wiring loom where it passes the transmission studs, engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “Were both wiring loom recalls (2020 and 2021 campaigns) completed?”
  • “Has the car ever cut out or shown intermittent warning lights?”

03Engine wiring harness chafing near throttle body - stalling, no-start, limp mode (2.0 GDI Duratec)

Start the car several times during the viewing, cold and after the test drive, and check that the engine light goes out each time.petrol2011–2014Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $250–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On early Mk3 Focus with the 2.0 GDI direct-injection engine, the engine wiring harness can rub through against the intake manifold near the throttle body, shorting sensor circuits. Ford TSB 15-0036, superseded by TSB 18-2062, covers 2012-2014 Focus 2.0 GDI built up to February 2014 with rough running, crank no-start, loss of power, sudden loss of revs and an engine light with a long list of sensor codes. The repair is to find and splice the damaged wires and re-sleeve the harness, but the fault is intermittent and often misdiagnosed as failed sensors or a failed engine computer, so owners can spend money on parts that do not fix it.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine light on with multiple unrelated sensor codes
  • Intermittent stalling or sudden loss of power
  • Cranks but will not start, then starts later
  • Rough running or a drop in revs at idle
  • Reduced power (limp) mode

What to check

Start the car several times during the viewing, cold and after the test drive, and check that the engine light goes out each time. On the drive include idling in traffic and gentle cruising, and note any stumble, stall or loss of power. With the bonnet open, use your phone torch to look at the wiring loom where it runs past the throttle body and intake manifold for shiny rubbed patches, split tape or DIY repairs. Ask whether sensors or the engine computer have been replaced for an intermittent fault. If a workshop inspection is possible: a code scan showing a cluster of sensor codes points to this harness, and a technician can inspect and repair the loom per TSB 18-2062.

Where to look: Top of the engine, where the main engine harness passes the throttle body and plastic intake manifold

Parts involved: Intake manifold.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever stalled or refused to start and then been fine later?”
  • “Have any sensors or the engine computer been replaced to chase a fault?”
  • “Has the engine wiring loom ever been repaired?”

04Battery drain and body-module glitches — flat batteries, phantom alarms (Mk4)

Check the battery's date code and ask how many it has had.2018–2022Electrical
CommonElectrical $150–$800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk4 Focuses suffer parasitic battery drain from modules that fail to sleep, plus SYNC3 freezes, phantom alarm activations and random warning messages. Ford issued multiple software updates; a car that has not had them will flatten its battery in a week or two of sitting. Diagnosis of a stubborn drain is charged by the hour, so a documented history of updates and one healthy battery beats a car on its third battery.

Symptoms to notice

  • Flat battery after a week or two parked
  • Alarm going off for no reason
  • Infotainment freezing or rebooting
  • Warning messages that clear on restart

What to check

  1. Check the battery's date code and ask how many it has had.
  2. Ask for evidence of dealer software updates.
  3. Lock the car and watch that it goes fully to sleep (interior lights and screen off).

Where to look: 12V battery in the engine bay; body control module and SYNC unit behind the dash

Parts involved: 12V battery.

Ask the seller

  • “How many 12V batteries has it had?”
  • “Have all outstanding software updates been applied?”
  • “Any history of phantom alarms or flat batteries?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior5

01Rear beam axle mounting bracket corrosion

Inspect the rear undercarriage with a torch from below, focusing on the twist beam mounting brackets at their body weld points.2011–2018Body & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Side door latch pawl spring tab cracking - door won't latch or can open on the move

Open and close every door, including both rear doors, at normal closing force, not a slam.2012–2015Body & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Front wheel bearing premature failure

Spin the wheel by hand and listen for grinding or roughness.2002–2011Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front wheel bearings on LR–LV Focus models have a documented shorter-than-expected service life on NZ roads, commonly failing between 80,000 and 140,000 km. The hub-integrated bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle and requires a hydraulic press to replace. Premature failure is partly attributed to the relatively heavy front end for a compact car and the road surface quality typical of NZ urban and suburban driving.

Symptoms to notice

  • Humming or growling from the front that changes pitch when cornering
  • Noise increases with vehicle speed and worsens on directional changes
  • Vibration felt through the steering wheel at highway speeds
  • Slight play when the wheel is rocked at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions

What to check

Spin the wheel by hand and listen for grinding or roughness. During a test drive, weave gently at highway speed and note whether the noise changes direction. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, rock each front wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions for lateral play and at 6 and 12 o'clock for vertical play.

Where to look: Front wheel hub, pressed inside the steering knuckle

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front wheel bearings been replaced?”
  • “Any humming or growling from the front at highway speed?”
  • “Does the noise change when you weave left or right on the motorway?”

04Door latch failure — doors won't shut or can open on the move (global recall)

Firmly shut every door and the tailgate several times, ideally when the car has been sitting in the sun.2012–2016Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $150–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk3 Focus was caught in Ford's global door-latch recalls: a cracked pawl spring tab leaves a door that will not latch, or one that pops open over bumps. Replacement latches were fitted free under recall, but coverage of NZ-new and imported cars is patchy. It is a two-minute check that rules out a genuine safety fault.

Symptoms to notice

  • Door bounces back open when shut
  • Persistent 'door ajar' warning
  • Door needing repeated slams, especially on hot days

What to check

Firmly shut every door and the tailgate several times, ideally when the car has been sitting in the sun. Watch for door-ajar warnings on the drive. Have a Ford dealer check the VIN for open recalls.

Where to look: Latch mechanisms in each door shut-face

Ask the seller

  • “Has the door latch recall been completed?”
  • “Has any door ever failed to latch or opened while driving?”

05Rust in rear wheel arches and tailgate (Mk2 LS/LT/LV)

Crouch at each rear corner and sight along the arch lip in raking light - bubbling shows before holes do.2005–2011Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $400–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk2 Focus hatches rust in two specific places: the rear wheel arch lips, where a slightly misaligned rear bumper rubs the paint through, and the tailgate, particularly where the rubber buffer contacts the body and around the tailgate skin. It starts as bubbling under the paint and spreads. On a car this age a clean shell matters more than mechanical niggles - proper rust repair with paint costs more than the panel is worth, and body filler over rust is the classic disguise at sale time.

Symptoms to notice

  • Paint bubbling on the rear arch lips
  • Rust bloom or bubbling on the tailgate around the handle, glass or buffer contact points
  • Fresh underseal or fresh paint in only these areas

What to check

  1. Crouch at each rear corner and sight along the arch lip in raking light - bubbling shows before holes do.
  2. Run a finger under the arch lip; crustiness you can feel but not see is early rot.
  3. Open the tailgate and check its lower edge, around the wiper spindle, and where the rubber buffers touch the body; look for paint that does not quite match or overspray on the rubbers, which means a cheap respray over rust.
  4. Check the boot floor under the carpet for water staining while you are there.
  5. Magnetic-looking filler bulges on arch lips are a walk-away sign on a cheap car.

Where to look: Rear wheel arch lips behind the bumper edges, tailgate skin and its buffer contact points

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any rust repair or repaint been done on the rear arches or tailgate?”
  • “Has the car ever had panel work? Is there an invoice?”
Fluid leaks3

01Fuel tank cracking recall - blocked carbon canister creates tank vacuum (LW)

Ford Australia recalled 2011-2015 Focus vehicles (PRA 2017/16259, August 2017) because dust ingestion can block the carbon canister.petrol2011–2015Fluid Leaks
RareFluid Leaks $500–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Ford Australia recalled 2011-2015 Focus vehicles (PRA 2017/16259, August 2017) because dust ingestion can block the carbon canister; during a purge cycle the fuel tank then pulls a vacuum beyond its design limit and can crack and leak petrol - a fire hazard with any ignition source. The recall work is free at a Ford dealer, but it was VIN-specific and issued six years after the first affected cars were sold, so plenty of used examples changed hands without it done. A cracked tank shows up as fuel smell and visible weeping under the rear of the car.

Symptoms to notice

  • Petrol smell around or under the car
  • Fuel weeping or staining under the rear
  • Creaking/popping noises from the tank area after refuelling

What to check

Run the VIN through Ford's recall checker (ford.com.au or ford.co.nz service portal) on your phone at the viewing and ask the seller for recall completion paperwork. Crouch at the rear of the car and use your phone torch to look for wet staining or a fuel smell around the tank area - do this after the test drive when any leak is more likely to show. Any petrol smell at a viewing is a stop-and-verify item, not a negotiating point.

Where to look: Fuel tank and carbon canister under the rear of the car

Ask the seller

  • “Can you show the fuel tank / carbon canister recall was completed?”
  • “Has there ever been a fuel smell?”

02Engine oil separator damage - oil leak and fire risk recall (Mk4)

Check the VIN against Ford's recall database and ask for the 22S21 completion paperwork.2019–2022Fluid Leaks
RareFluid Leaks $0–$1,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Ford recalled 2019-2022 Mk4 Focuses (campaign 22S21, REC-005431, May 2022) because the right-hand engine oil separator may have been damaged before engine assembly. A damaged separator leaks oil, and oil on hot engine parts can smoke or, worst case, ignite. Owners notice an oily smoke smell while driving or smoke from under the bonnet. The recall inspection and fix are free, but this is another VIN-check item on a used car, and any Mk4 with unexplained oil smells deserves suspicion of this specific part before generic 'gasket' explanations are accepted.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil-smoke smell while driving
  • Smoke from under the bonnet
  • Oil residue low on the right-hand side of the engine

What to check

Check the VIN against Ford's recall database and ask for the 22S21 completion paperwork. At the viewing, open the bonnet after the test drive and sniff for burnt oil; use the phone torch to look for wet oil films on the right-hand side of the engine and any drips on the undertray below. Fresh degreaser smell or a suspiciously spotless engine on an otherwise average car can be its own tell.

Where to look: Right-hand engine oil separator, engine bay

Parts involved: PCV / oil separator.

Ask the seller

  • “Was the oil separator recall (22S21) completed?”
  • “Any history of oil leaks or burning-oil smells?”

03Power steering hose and pump leaks (Mk1 hydraulic PAS)

Check the power steering reservoir level and look for wetness along the hoses down to the rack.2002–2005Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk1 Focus hydraulic power steering systems leak from the high-pressure hose and pump seals with age. Left low on fluid the pump whines, then fails, and a groaning pump plus hose replacement adds up quickly on a low-value car. Fluid dripping onto the exhaust also creates a smoking/smell hazard that will spook any buyer behind you.

Symptoms to notice

  • Whining or groaning when turning, especially at full lock
  • Power steering fluid drips on the driveway
  • Heavy steering at parking speeds
  • Burning-oil smell after driving

What to check

  1. Check the power steering reservoir level and look for wetness along the hoses down to the rack.
  2. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock with the engine idling and listen for whine.
  3. Look for fresh drips under the front of the car after the test drive.

Where to look: PAS reservoir and pump on the engine, hoses running down to the steering rack

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering ever needed topping up?”
  • “Have the PAS hoses or pump been replaced?”

Ford Focus faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Ford Focus’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Ford models

Ford Focus buyer questions

Is the Ford Focus reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 37 documented faults for the Ford Focus, the recurring problem areas are engine, cooling, and body & rust. A Ford Focus with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Ford Focus?

We've catalogued 37 known faults for the Ford Focus, covering engine, cooling, and body & rust. All 37 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Ford Focus?

Most single repairs on the Ford Focus fall between $500–$2,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 37 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Ford Focus?

Yes. A Ford Focus inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.